oil filter?

[Balln]

It only cost $30 for oil change from Nissan and they give you a free wash. And I'm gonna do the plugs my self. I'm going to run ngk and ill prob have them put 10w30 instead of the 5w30 becuase summer is coming up.

[Balln]

Just thought i would post this up for future searchers. I took my pathy to nissan and got the oil changed. It cost me $30. and they put a oem filter and 5W30 oil in. It runs So much better and the lifter tick on cold starts went away. Im gonna start getting my oil changed when the ticking happens rather then waiting on my mile mark to come first. The ticking could have been from the oil filter that was on there (not sure what it was). Not sure if it was the fresh oil or the oem filter but they both helped out majorly!!!!

[krmiller07]

Having 89 Pathy with a V6, I too have experinced intermitent ticking on cold start up. What I have found and noticed, is based on the angle and location of the oil filter. It doesn't seem to matter what brand you use in regards to the ticking. All of or a majority of the oil drains back into the oil pan anyways. I have looked for a filter brand that has a 'back flow' valve in them. Meaning the oil stays in the filter when the engine is not running. As of present, I haven't found one. The major differences in filter brands is in the media used to filter the oil and the quality and thickness of the outer shell of the filter itself. Right now I am trying a K & N oil filter which is suppose to filter even the smallest particles of debris circulating in the oil and last 4 x's as long as the Bosch, Napa (Wix) brand of higher quality oils filters. I have not experianced any problems with leaking, or poor fit. the quality is noteably higher in the thickness of the outer shell and the filtering media inside appears to look like the same 'gauze type' of material used in their air filters, which I also use. My oil looks like it stays cleaner longer than the other mentioned brands!

As for the ticking sound. That seems to come from the lifters 'leaking down' while the engine is not running. I have read articles of Z- car guys actully disassembling the lifters and making shims to place inside the lifter against the spring to compensate for the springs colapsing after higher RPM use. Not a practical solution in my case.

I did however notice that periodic use of Sea Foam in the oil ( 1 pint ) added about 1 - 200 miles before an oil change, helped break down the varnish and gunk left behind from time and mileage, seemed to cure the ticking problem. I typically ad the Sea Foam and drive the truck for a few hundered miles before changing the oil and filter. After that the ticking disappears and the engine seems to pull harder and more noticeably, especially as it comes into the powerband ( I suspect, due the lifters being at full length and providing more 'lift' on the valves). Another thing I have noticed after owning the same truck for 8 years, is the ticking is usally a sure fire way of telling me the oil is about a quart low! Every time it starts ticking, I check the oil and have to add a quart before the ticking disappears. This occurs about every 2-2500 miles, and I suspect it's caused by the older and probably harder valve stem seal materail hardening with time and mileage, and the oil seeping by and down the stem, getting burned off gradually. I have also noticed less oil consumption after switching back to a petroleum based oil, after using Mobil 1 for several years. I still use Mobil 1, just not the synthetic blend in the engine.

It costs alot less and seems to hold up just as well as synthetic. I have personally seen oil consumption go down or dramaticlly be reduced in other engines by making this change. Especially on 'older' higher milage engines when they were built during the early stages of synthetically based engine oils development. I think the tollerances were a little greater during manufacturing in this time period compared to today or later manufacturing proceedures. I also, I use 5W-30 during the summer and switch to 5W-20 or lighter during the extreme cold wheather in minnesota during the winters. Seems to accomodate faster warm ups with less wear internally.

 

Hope this helps.

[Towncivilian]

The Purolator PL24457 which fits your '89 Pathfinder has an anti-drainback valve. I have had a Mobil 1 EP-110 oil filter sitting face down in a small drain pan for over 6 months and oil is still coming out of it; the ADBV definitely works.

 

K&N filters are identical internally to Mobil 1 filters. See a particle count comparison of Mobil 1 EP filters vs. Amsoil's EaO oil filters here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1250177

 

5W-20 may reach operating temperature faster in the winter, but both 5W-20 and 5W-30 have generally similar viscosity at cold starts. I would run a 0W-30 oil during the winter for better cold flow (or all year round if you wish) instead of dropping a grade of viscosity at operating temperature.

[krmiller07]

Thanks for the info. I thought I had check a Purolator catalog and couldn't cross over for some reason?!.

 

I have used 0W - 20 / 30 during the coldest parts of the winter where the temps can get - 30 / - 40 below zero F., before wind chill. I did notice a little easier starting (cranking) even while parked in a garage. I don't have a block heater, and thus far haven't needed one : )

[Towncivilian]

I entered 1989 Nissan Pathfinder into the Purolator filter finder and PL24457 (and the other tiered equivalents) came up. I took another look at the PL24457's detail page and it has no bypass valve. I assume the bypass valve is integrated into the oil filter base.

 

0W oils really make a noticeable in extremely cold temps, as you've said. Ironically, some 5W or even 10W oils may be thinner on a typical Florida summer day at ambient temperature than a 0W oil, but I digress. For cold weather performance, 0W oils can't be beat.

Edited April 30, 2012 by Towncivilian

[krmiller07]

Usually the 'by pass valve' is obvious when looking into the bottom or base of the filter. It sometimes looks like it has a spring type plunger (valve) which lets oils in (under pressure) however the spring and plunger close or cut off supply when no pressure is present. There by trapping a constant source of oil in the filter and preventing it from draining back into the pan. I'd like to find a cut away diagram of the filter you mentioned to verify the back flow valve !?. Any idea's ?

[Towncivilian]

You are confusing a pressure bypass valve with an anti-drainback valve. The anti-drainback valve is a nitrile or silicone disc shaped piece which holds oil in the filter after the engine has been shut off. The coil spring looking piece opens the bypass valve when the pressure differential between the positive displacement oil pump and the filtering media is too high (for example, when the oil is cold or the filtering media is clogged) to allow the oil circuit to bypass the oil filter completely.

 

Here is a PL14610 cut open with the ADBV visible, and the bypass valve somewhat visible: http://i198.photobuc...r1/DSC09332.jpg

 

Also see this diagram of an oil filter:

 

 

Unfortunately I cannot find photos of a PL24457 or L24457 cut open.

Edited April 30, 2012 by Towncivilian

[Desert89]

I found this a few weeks ago when I was asking myself the very same question. Take a look and decide for yourself.

 

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

[OfftourRoadie96]

I just put in a K&N oil filter (never tried them before)I like the 1" wrench nut they put on the bottom of the filter. I run it with Valvoline 5W30 Synthetic.

[devonianwalk]

Am I missing something with you guys about your concern with the "drain back" valve? The filter is mounted vertically, not horizontally. The oil should remain in the filter all the time.

[adamzan]

It's mounted horizontally on the wd21.

[Towncivilian]

And on VQ35DE equipped R50s it's mounted diagonally.

[devonianwalk]

Crazy .. I didn't know that?

[Leo94]

Reading online i've only heard bad of Fram. With the draining problem that could just be solved by a relocation kit to mount it vertically and in the engine bay which i plan on doing in the future. I will probably go with a K&N filter with mobil1 synthetic oil.

[nismothunder]

I ran 5w-20 once, it ate 2 quirts in 1000 miles. But I never needed a block heater or any of that nonsense with 5w-30 ethier.

[krmiller07]

So what weight do you use ?

[Leo94]

If you go here Link and answer a few simple questions such as vehicle mileage and temperature in area it helps you choose the right mobil1 oil for your car.