Semperpathy Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 So here is the deal. When I start my pathy in the morning and drive to work everything is ok. When I get to work i shut the car off and go inside the office. I come outside 20 minuets later and start the pathfinder. I put it into reverse and this is where it craps the bed. The engine starts to idle really rough and starts to sputter. If you let it go long enough it will die. So does anyone have any ideas. I have changed the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned the mass air flow sensor, cleaned the throttle body. What else can I do? Please help me guys I am trying to get it running again. I forgot to add that I can drive the vehicle still. When you keep the rpms up it doesnt try to stall out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msm3_99 Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Mine is doing the same thing so if you get a answer please let me know. Change all the same things you had change as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Faulty engine coolant temperature sensor? Measure its resistance (see page EC-157: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1998_Pathfinder/ec.pdf ) and replace it if it's bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Have you checked the EGR valve? Vacuum lines? Do you have a SES light (code)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msm3_99 Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 No light code. Push on the gas when warm. it sounds like a vapor lock but stalls and somtimes just dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semperpathy Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 It pulls up 3 codes p1444, p1447, p0325. I did clean the vapor canistor lines and replaced the canister. still no luck. I would not think that canister would do this. the lines were full with charcoal up to the vapor canister purge valve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semperpathy Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Sorry guys should have what codes were coming up first. Dumb and Dumber moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 There might be bits of charcoal remaining that are causing your P1444 code (and possibly P1447). P0325 (knock sensor) is likely a side effect. You can try adding a small in-line fuel filter to catch any charcoal - see this thread on NICO: http://forums.nicoclub.com/p1444-code-and-poor-man-fix-t441648.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semperpathy Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Yea but would that make the engine sputter. And why does it only do it when it is warmed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wo0denSp0on Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Mine started doing the same thing a while back but doesnt do it all the time. My CEL has been on since I bought it tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgallant Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Could be the distributor electronics crapping out, they work fine cold as soon as they get warm you get the same results. I had and Xterra with same symptoms, replacing the dist resolved everything. Basically ran fine cold, stop for even a few minutes then ran rough or not at all until it cooled down, then ran fine again. The problem is you get no useful codes to help you figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfounder Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 A weak ignition is usually at its worst when it's hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wo0denSp0on Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Well I'm plannig to change my valve cover gaskets this weekend so I guess an ignition tune up wouldnt hurt to add to the list! Changed the plugs and wires not too long ago so at least that is outta the way. Really not looking forward to it. Maintenance is never as fun as Modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semperpathy Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 This all started when I took of the rotor to see how bad it was. When I put it back on this is what I got. Any ideas. I put the inline fuel filter in. How hard is it to change out the distributor. Do you need to take off the front of the engine or can you do it without. How long of a ordeal will it be to take this off.\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semperpathy Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 If the distributor is the problem. How do I test to make sure? Not wanting to change the wrong parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgallant Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Replacing the distributor is easy maybe a 1/2 hour. There is no good test that I am aware of, I just ended up buying a complete unit and dropping it in. The problem is it is a sealed electronic package no way to get inside it. A Nissan mechanic might know of a way, but when mine was going the dealership was doing the parts toss to figure it out. I gave up on them after the 3rd trip and still having the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wo0denSp0on Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 I changed my rotor and dist. cap yesterday to see if that helps any. Took maybe 10 mins and probably has never been done. Dunno if it fixed anything yet havent noticed it tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semperpathy Posted April 27, 2012 Author Share Posted April 27, 2012 I tracked down when my engine starts to run rough. This is how it goes. Drive to work which is normally a 15 minuet drive. Shut the vehicle off and go into the office. Go back outside 15-30 minuets later and start it up. Once the idle settles down after inital start up it starts to sputter. You can sit in the driver seat and watch the tach drop and hear the engine sputter. Put it in reverse or drive and it makes it even worse and eventually die if you let it. When you put more pull on the engine like turning on the lights and AC it really sputters. Then I can start to drive it and after 2-5 minuets of driving it will drive normally without skipping a beat. Shut the vehicle off and you go through the same issues again. So here is what I am asking. If it is the distributor going bad, when you shut it down does all of the engine heat warm up the distributor so it wont fire correctly. Then when you drive it does all the air coming off the fan cool it down enough to make it run normally. Just trying to figure it out. So long story short I have a 2-5 minuet window when the engine runs like crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitMan Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 I would do a quick look at the MAF sensor wiring to make sure there are no loose or frayed wires. I had a similar problem before and jiggled the wiring while the truck was running and it cut out on me. Sure enough I needed to replace the sensor and haven't had a problem since. Don't know if this is your issue, but it wouldn't hurt to look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petespath Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 should you replace the MAF if you have no blown codes , I am trying to get better gas mileage and was thinking of replacing mine. I do go off road and it could be dirty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 I recently took mine to the shop....(kids weekend = no time) MAF sensor. I was talking to a buddy and he said that they make special cleaner for it. Said not to use Carb cleaner. Should only take a few minutes to pull and clean. worth a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97NissiR50 Posted October 21, 2019 Share Posted October 21, 2019 I realize this question is roughly 7 years old now, but for anybody with a VG33E combing through this thread after experiencing similar issues - start by making sure there are no vacuum leaks, then you'll most likely need to move on to the TPS (throttle position sensor). If the rough idle is intermittent or only after high idle from a cold start, chances are you need to adjust the TPS or replace & adjust TPS. Here is a good instructional I found while trying to remedy my intermittent rough idle... https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/nissan/3.3L/how-to-test-the-idle-switch-1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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