Dizer92Pathfinder Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 How the F&*k do i pull the engine ? Do i have to pull the transmission with it connected to the engine? HELP!!!!! Anyone close to Colorado wanna come HELP !!!!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Got a torch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 disconnect all your cables and harnesses and air intake unbolt the tranny i think 13 bolts make sure you get the one under the starter unbolt drive lines from differentials 4 bolts each slide transmission back a few inches unbolt motor mounts should be about 4 bolt total on that may need to move starter so you can unbolt the torque converter if you have an auto if manual no need If you need more info do a search. Removing the motor is covered in depth in this forum in one post or another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 if it's an auto it's a lot easier. you have to unbolt the transmission from the motor. unbolt the torque converter from the motor, (you can access these bolts via the access plate and starter hole once it's removed). You unbolt all the harnesses and vacuum lines, radiator/fan/shroud, air intake, exhaust (either at the exhaust ports or at the manifold-pipe flange). If it's a 5 speed im pretty sure you have to drop the front differential so you have enough room to slide the motor forward before you lift it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 if it's an auto it's a lot easier. you have to unbolt the transmission from the motor. unbolt the torque converter from the motor, (you can access these bolts via the access plate and starter hole once it's removed). You unbolt all the harnesses and vacuum lines, radiator/fan/shroud, air intake, exhaust (either at the exhaust ports or at the manifold-pipe flange). If it's a 5 speed im pretty sure you have to drop the front differential so you have enough room to slide the motor forward before you lift it out. I've done both you don't need to drop the front diff just move the tranny back and pull motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizer92Pathfinder Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 were is the access plate? I cant drop my oil pan my diff is in the way! it is an auto tranny. RE4R01A to be exact. I of course can see the fly wheel from starter hole but cant see any bolt . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 You shouldnt need too drop the pan too pull the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 You don't need to drop the oil pan but you DO need to remove the front diff. The diff is the worst part of the whole swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 For removal I had to remove the diff, there was no way the oil pan would clear it during removal. If you do choose remove the oil pan, the pick up is still there. I would also suggest having a box of zip loc bags, a marker, and some tape for labelling all those hoses and connectors. There are some really good write ups, that will save you a lot of time. Give the nuts on the exhaust a good soaking, they seem to be prone breaking off, Have fun with the top bolt on the drivers side between the tranny and engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 (edited) You don't need to drop the oil pan but you DO need to remove the front diff. The diff is the worst part of the whole swap. I don't wish to argue. I am trying to expand my information. I was able to remove the engine from my 95 with out removing the front diff. I was then able to put in its place a vg33 with a vg30 oil pan in its place again without removing the front diff. Did I do something wrong or risk damaging my oil pan? I did this several 1000 miles ago and have not had any issues with the pan leaking and it doesn't apear to be damaged. Also I don't want to thread jack so if its more appropriate I can start a new thread. I remember what I did. I had removed the transmission so I could swap in a manual so I just tilted the engine on the hoist so the oil pan stuck into where the transmission would have been until the engine settled on the motor mounts. Whats worse pulling the front diff or droping the tranny? Edited April 12, 2012 by ejin4499 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Pulling the transmission first is the key there. If you don't, you HAVE to remove the front diff. There is no way around it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Pulling the transmission first is the key there. If you don't, you HAVE to remove the front diff. There is no way around it. You have to unbolt and pull it back to disengage the transmission drive shaft why not pull it a little further and not have to drop the front diff ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 For removal I had to remove the diff, there was no way the oil pan would clear it during removal. If you do choose remove the oil pan, the pick up is still there. ^ This. Some people have removed the oil pan and pickup so they didn't have to drop the front diff but that's an even bigger PITA and getting it back together properly without ending up with a leaking oil pan gasket just isn't worth the risk. I had removed the transmission so I could swap in a manual so I just tilted the engine on the hoist so the oil pan stuck into where the transmission would have been until the engine settled on the motor mounts. Whats worse pulling the front diff or droping the tranny? I see. You wouldn't normally have the trans out before the engine so that's not a 'normal' option. Dropping the trans is definitely much worse than dropping the front diff! You have to unbolt and pull it back to disengage the transmission drive shaft why not pull it a little further and not have to drop the front diff ? You don't have to move the transmission to separate it from the engine, you just move the engine forward leaving the trans in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 The diff isn't really "Hard" to take out. It is just awkward and heavy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 If memory serves I spent more time wrestling with the diff on the way out than I expected. The mounting brackets would get in the way I could only slide sideways or forward not both. was pretty sure one of the t-bars had to come out (they don't). It is exactly what it looks like, kind of heavy but really awkward, due to the off centre weight. It would be much easier with an extra set of hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizer92Pathfinder Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 So do i disconnect the front diff from the crossmember ? Or Totally remove it from the pathy? I have been told the bolts that hold the front diff to the cross member are VERY brittle !! Should i soak them in penetrating oil before going at it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 For removal I had to remove the diff, there was no way the oil pan would clear it during removal. If you do choose remove the oil pan, the pick up is still there. I would also suggest having a box of zip loc bags, a marker, and some tape for labelling all those hoses and connectors. There are some really good write ups, that will save you a lot of time. Give the nuts on the exhaust a good soaking, they seem to be prone breaking off, Have fun with the top bolt on the drivers side between the tranny and engine. A ratchet, a 18" or 24" extension, a 6" or 12" extension, a universal joint and a buddy and it is a piece of cake. I can't recall what combo of extension/universal got the socket there (going in from underneath the truck) but it's not that bad. The buddy is needed to guide the socket onto the bolt head and hold it in place while the guy underneath breaks it loose. This was done on a truck without a body lift so no if's, ands or buts about it. Pulling the transmission first is the key there. If you don't, you HAVE to remove the front diff. There is no way around it. I haven't pulled a motor yet, but it seems that if you have a tranny jack, just moving it back 6-12" would be pretty damn easy and then you wouldn't have to mess with the front diff or the oil pan... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 So do i disconnect the front diff from the crossmember ? Or Totally remove it from the pathy? I have been told the bolts that hold the front diff to the cross member are VERY brittle !! Should i soak them in penetrating oil before going at it ? I'm sorry, I can't answer the first part, but yes, just get in the habit of always using penetrating oil. I can't think of a time it has ever hurt... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 So do i disconnect the front diff from the crossmember ? Or Totally remove it from the pathy? I have been told the bolts that hold the front diff to the cross member are VERY brittle !! Should i soak them in penetrating oil before going at it ? Two options. Pull the transmission back/out or pull the differential OUT. Gone. Remove from vehicle. The bolts aren't brittle but the sumo wrestlers at Nissan sure did a good job of getting them TIGHT. Add corrosion and rust, they can really suck to get out. Penetrating oil would be smart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 (edited) Soak it down and then soak it again. If it save drilling out some bolt its worth it, any way you slice it. If you do plan on moving or removing the diff you can remove thel brackets that are bolted onto the cross member not just the bolts that run through the diff this will let you wiggle it left to right a bit. I found this out after scraping and inch of oil soaked muck off the top of the cross member. Moving the tranny back might make it possible leave the diff where it is while removing the engine but I didn't go this route. I pulled the diff out. Edited April 15, 2012 by OlBlue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 When you go to pull the diff out raising the engine a couple of inches helps a whole bunch! This gives room between the oil pan and the mount that sticks off the front of the diff tube on the RH side for the diff to rotate down and out. I use my transmission jack to R&R diffs and they still suck. If you can get the bolts out that hold the RH diff isolator to the frame crossmember that would make things much easier I'm sure. I had a four foot cheater bar on mine and decided to leave them in rather than break them off in the frame. The cross bolts through the isolators are torqued to aboot 7.5 million foot pounds but they are through bolts with nuts so you don't have to worry about breaking them off and messing up your frame. Stuff like that I put a Craftsman (no Qs asked unlimited lifetime warranty) socket on a breaker bar and put the floor jack under the end of the handle to break them loose. You get good at using methods such as this when wrenching on big stuff like Unimogs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizer92Pathfinder Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 (edited) Would just a regular hydralic floor jack work to move my tranny back an inch or two ? I dont have access to a tranny jack. Edited April 17, 2012 by Dizer92Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizer92Pathfinder Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 Well i am going with a floor jack tomorrow under my tranny to move it back the inch or two i need so i dont have to deal with the Headache of the front diff.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Put a strap around the transmission to hold it to the jack if possible! That's sob is heavy! That's what we did and it worked fine. Regular floor jack is not the easiest route but it works. :-) good luck! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 If you have a full sized floor jack, it might be enough, but one of those small units wouldn't be a good idea. You can buy an adapter plate that fits on a floor jack for trannys, maybe look at one of those? Yes, please be careful, these trannys are quite large and heavy! When you have it moved back, block/brace it with some pieces of wood or something to make sure it shift off of the jack. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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