P1145 and P1140 Codes

[RedRider3141]

EDIT: for the solution to my problem and the short story see page 2 of this thread after reading the Post #1, Post #7 and Post #18. Or read the entire thing, it isn't that long and has some good info.

 

I may be reinventing the wheel here but I wanted to document my experiences with the P1145 and P1140 Codes.

 

Today my Pathy through a SES at me. I've owned it for about a year and this is the first time that is done that. Luckily I "invested" in a cheapy code reader from Harbor Freight a few years back for my sisters car that has continuous issues. Between my cars, sibling's cars and friend's cars that thing has paid for itself over and over again. Anyways, back to the story. When I scanned I got P1145 only. I did some Googling and came across a few posts over on Nico Club and a few Yahoo Answer type posts that lead me to look into the oil level or cam sensors. Apparently, oil level is a favorite answer of Nissan mechanics. Several posts from "Nissan Master Techs" suggested that the oil either be changed or topped off to clear the code. The way I read it the code can be caused by the cam position solenoid not having enough oil pressure to work properly. So the error isn't necessarily "Low Oil" or "Low Oil Pressure" its a failure with cam position solenoid or sensor.

 

To test first check your oil. Mine was changed about 4-500 miles ago and was still fresh and full (yes I double checked it to make sure). After I eliminated that I started to remove the sensors and check them based on the specs in the manual. I really didn't find anything exceptional with the drivers side sensor which supposedly was the issue. According the manual as long as the measured resistance between each of the pins is ANYTHING "Except 0 or (infinity)" the sensor is ok. I decided to pull the other sensor and check it too. It had a few pin-outs that resulted in 0 ohms. I decided to follow the advice of the Nico Club posts and swap the sensors when I put them back in. If the P1145 code returned then the next place to look was the solenoid. If the P1140 code turned on then the problem moved with the sensor. I cleared the codes and took it for a test drive to the store and back. The SES light will not light for an P1145 or P1140 the FIRST time it has an error. The computer will log it and if it sees it AGAIN it will turn the SES light on. This is exactly what happened to me. The light was off on the way to the store but came on when I restarted and came home. I checked and it was the P1140 code. Success! I didn't fix it but I isolated the issue to the sensor itself. I did some online looking and it seems Amazon has some pretty good prices on then sensor but I'm still going to call the dealer to find out how much they want.

 

Also, this blog would have saved me 5-10 minutes of staring at my engine. It's a handy reference before you tackle the (easy) job of swapping the sensors.

http://www.jensbits....1145-and-p1140/

Edited May 10, 2012 by RedRider3141

[Howie]

Good job troubleshooting. I went through the exact same process (including testing the voltage on the sensor with a multimeter and switching them side to side), ended up replacing the sensor and it fixed it. A few months later, the other sensor failed. Fixed it too, and no problems since. I think those sensors just go bad.

[RedRider3141]

Thanks! Yeah, it sounds like a relatively common issue. And most posts mentioned both eventually failing.

 

Good job troubleshooting. I went through the exact same process (including testing the voltage on the sensor with a multimeter and switching them side to side), ended up replacing the sensor and it fixed it. A few months later, the other sensor failed. Fixed it too, and no problems since. I think those sensors just go bad.

[RedRider3141]

Just got off the phone with the parts department at Eastside Nissan in Bellevue, WA and they quoted me $130+ PER SENSOR! I asked if they price matched online or could do any better since most of the posts I've been reading have been right around $80-$90 for the sensor from their dealer. The guy was pretty understanding and said they couldn't match online prices but said they may be able to knock of ~$20 from the list price. That was more than I expected but not enough to keep me from ordering the Beck Arnley part from amazon for $56.58 (free shipping!). I thanked him and hung up. Like Howie and I stated earlier it seems that these sensors fail in pairs eventually so $220 vs $114 means I'll be ordering them from Amazon.

[Towncivilian]

This was the first thing I ever did to my Pathfinder - I had both P1140 and P1145 codes. I bought a couple of the Standard Motor Products camshaft position sensors from the linked guide in the first post and replaced them, and codes went away. Still working fine after about 20k miles.

[Howie]

I would buy two, but only replace the defective one and keep the second good one as a spare. That way you can replace the other one only if it goes bad. No need to throw away a perfectly functioning sensor. It's not like they're hard to get at or anything.

[RedRider3141]

Well Good News and Bad News. My Beck Arnley Sensor(s) showed up this weekend and I slapped one in place of the failed sensor and took it for a "spirited" drive... SES light again. Turns out it is P1110 that is coming on now... looks like more reading and researching the forums for me!

[Towncivilian]

What oil & filter are you running?

[RedRider3141]

Good question since the more I read the more I know that oil and oil pressure are related to the function of the solenoid. I'm about 1,000 miles into Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W-30. Currently using a K&N oil filter. Problem first came up about 150-200 miles ago. Previous oil change was same 5W-30 Mobil one and Fram filter (changed after ~3K miles). Previous to that was Motorcraft oil of unknown weight and a motorcraft filter (Pathfinder came from a Ford dealer).

 

What oil & filter are you running?

[RedRider3141]

Just did a little more investigation with my code reader, didn't find a whole lot. I reset the code and started the engine. Didn't have time to test drive it but I'll drive it tomorrow to work and back. I did cycle it a few times in the drive way and the code hasn't come back... yet. Like I said I was driving it earlier fairly vigorously and it seems this can create a situation where the ECM will recognize the problem. In this case it was me essentially unintentionally drag racing an old guy in a caddy on a steep on ramp from the carpool lane. I was just meaning to overtake him but he was on the gas a lot more than I thought! I just kept the Pathfinder pinned and safely passed him before the end of the ramp while still staying within the speed limit. Usually on that particular ramp I'm passed the person before I'm out of second gear but the Pathfinder had to pull a little harder and longer this time.

Anyways in a situation like this the ECM will notice the difference in cam position between the two banks and cause the code.

[Towncivilian]

The lower tier Fram filters are junk - they have lousy construction for the price and sometimes have poorly sealing anti drainback valves, so I wouldn't use any Fram filter except an XtendedGuard which is built like a tank. K&N filters are identical to Mobil 1 filters, they just have the welded nut on the bottom. If you're insistent on using K&N filters, switch to M1 and save the $2.

 

I also think you're completely wasting your money changing out M1 at 3k intervals. Switch to any name-brand conventional and keep using quality filters and you'll be fine.

Edited April 2, 2012 by Towncivilian

[RedRider3141]

Update on the issue: I cleared the code and it came on on my way BACK from work WHILE driving. This leads me to lean toward an issue with the solenoid. One possible cause for the issue is low oil. I have to admit when I put less than the recommended oil in. I dumped 5 qts in and checked the dip stick and it was 90-95% ful so I left it. Tonight I added the last 1/4 qt recommended by the manual (oil change with filter) and reset the codes. It's a slim chance that a 1/4 qt will make a difference but we'll see.

 

 

The lower tier Fram filters are junk - they have lousy construction for the price and sometimes have poorly sealing anti drainback valves, so I wouldn't use any Fram filter except an XtendedGuard which is built like a tank. K&N filters are identical to Mobil 1 filters, they just have the welded nut on the bottom. If you're insistent on using K&N filters, switch to M1 and save the $2.

 

I also think you're completely wasting your money changing out M1 at 3k intervals. Switch to any name-brand conventional and keep using quality filters and you'll be fine.

 

I don't disagree with you, on all accounts, but I have some reasoning behind it, hopefully this won't turn in to one of those oil threads...

 

1) Fram filter, it was the ToughGuard. Fram used to make good, quality filters. I now see the light and agree they have suffered many cost saving shortcuts and I'm in no hurry to buy one again.

2) I got my K&N filters from Amazon for cheaper than Mobil1 filters were at the store. I also heard they are the same as Mobil 1 filters I will check for them next time, although that nut it pretty handy for a guy without a filter wrench.

3) I planned on changing the dealer oil at 3K and only taking the first Mobil1 oil change to 3K just to get a good baseline since I'm at least the second owner and I purchased it at ~140K. My last car ('Splorer) I did Full Synthetic and 6K mile intervals. That worked well for me and the car for the 80,000 miles I owned it.

[Towncivilian]

OK, your reasoning is sound regarding the filters & OCIs in my opinion. No need to derail the thread.

 

I dump in 5 quarts and the oil is full on the dipstick for me. I seriously doubt the 1/4qt will make any difference. If the code reappears, I'd try going up a grade next oil change - try 0W-40 or 5W-40 or if the weather permits, 10W-40. No point in going to a 10W-30, the viscosity at operating tempearture will be nearly identical and you'd just lose better flow at cold starts. I've read anecdotal reports that higher oil pressure keeps the P1110 code away.

Edited April 3, 2012 by Towncivilian

[RedRider3141]

Yeah, I've heard the same thing about higher weight oils I'd hate to waste fresh oil by swapping it out but I'll keep it in mind. With my current driving that's 9-10 months worth of oil down the drain!

 

I think my next step may be to remove the solenoid and see if I can clean it out/ bench test it. It's just looking for 12v+/- right? If it moves it's good and if it doesn't it's bad.

 

I was just reading through the EC section of the manual and I'd really like to get my hands on one of the Nissan Consult data tools. Is that a dealer only thing?

[Towncivilian]

CONSULT (1) cables & software used for the pre-ODB2 Nissan/Infiniti vehicles are available aftermarket, but nothing is available for the CONSULT-II which is what our Pathfinders use. It's a dealer-only diagnostic tool.

 

I don't know what the solenoid wants in this case, you'll need to peruse the EC section more.

Edited April 3, 2012 by Towncivilian

[RedRider3141]

I looked through the Diagnostic section in the EC section of the manual (pages 449-451 in my copy) and it has three tests:

1) check 12V from Harness side of connector Result: GOOD

2) check continuity/ resistance between solenoid pins to each other and to ground Result: GOOD

3) apply 12V directly to Solenoid and check for "Click" Result: I hear a slight click but not nearly as loud as I expected. I'm guessing this means it is either bad (failed) or it is gummed up and is stuck.

 

Has anyone else performed this test on their VQ35? I called the dealer and they were not helpful/ willing to help out without me coming in get a diagnostic performed.

 

At this point I don't mind removing the solenoid and seeing if I can't flush it out and get it working again but I don't know if I should have a new gasket ready. Is it reusable or do I need a new one ready?

[RedRider3141]

Did some calling around and discovered the gasket is a covered metal gasket. I decided to remove the solenoid and see what's going on. I pulled the solenoid assembly and took a video of me performing the inspection on the solenoid:

http://www.youtube.com/embed/KTmhU5Q0rf4

 

I flushed it out but really it looked really clean already. Before and after testing didn't seem to change it's performance.

[RedRider3141]

So The P1110 Code presists. I gave in and dropped it off with the dealer to diagnose. The result (according to the dealer): Oil sludge in the Cam Shaft Gear mech. or cam chain tensioner. The Solution: New valve train on BOTH banks, thats a total of $5,000 parts and labor...

 

I'm obviously questioning why I would ever spend 5K on the Pathfinder only to still have a motor with 147,000 miles on it.

 

I'm trying a few ideas first since I always work of the principle that dealers don't care about anything but the most expensive solution that will solve your problem. I figure worst case I will get into the motor myself and clean what needs to be clean.

 

A few ideas that I'm going to try:

-P1140, P1145 sensor swaps

-Oil Change with thicker oil

-Oil Change with 1 qt ATF fluid

-Oil Flush

 

I'm all ears to other suggestions.

[Towncivilian]

Instead of putting harsh solvents or hydraulic fluids in your crankcase, I'd try running a few short oil changes (3k to 3.75k miles) with a conventional motor oil high in detergency such as Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 5W-30 and any decent filter first. Look through the oil filler hole, do you see any significant nastiness or buildup? How long of trips do you usually take (time & miles)? If the trips are very short, the oil may not have a chance to reach operating temperature to boil off excess moisture, and since the engine is cold it will be running rich and allowing more fuel dilution of the oil.

[Howie]

Find a mechanic that specializes in imports, especially Nissans. Tell him what the dealer found (but not how much). See if he'll be willing to just take apart the engine and clean the sludge. My guess is the labor would be far less than the $5000 your dealer wants, and it would take a lot less time than if you're doing it yourself (unless you have experience taking apart engines).

[RedRider3141]

Problem Solved! Solution: the other sensor was bad but it was misreading false timing advance 100% of the time so the computer threw the P1110 code instead of a P1145 or P1140.

Short Story, I think my dealer is a joke and my Pathfinder is now running like a champ!

 

Since my last post I changed my oil and planned on doing a few 1,000 mile interval oil changes to hopefully break up the "Oil Sludge" my dealer assured me was the issue. I didn't expect anything immediate to happen and nothing did. A few days later I got a little impatient and started to dig a little deeper. I was almost ready to remove the front access panels in front of the "sludged up cam gear" and send some compressed air through the cam gear solenoid. However, I got suspicious on how much sludge was actually in my motor. I ended up removing the two M6 bolts holding in the oil filler neck so I could get a straight shot view of my valve train. It was spotless, no sludge build up whatsoever. I then thought I should try swapping the sensors again (remember I have one brand new on I put on when I first made this thread and one older one (maybe not original since it didn't match the other side that I replaced, more on that below*)) I took it for a test spin and it again threw a code but NOT for P1110 like it had been for weeks and it had been when the dealer "diagnosed" it. Instead it threw a P1135 code. THE PROBLEM FOLLOWED THE SENSOR! Hurray! in less than 2 minutes I had a new sensor swapped back in so that I have two new sensors and SES light has been off ever since! Thanks again for all the help and suggestions and thanks Howie for suggesting to buy two sensors at one time, saved me a lot of grief. I wish I had just put in both from the beginning. Moral of the story is that those Cam Shaft Sensors can cause P1145 & P1140 OR P1110 or P1135.

 

*Sensor differences:

Of the 4 sensors I had, two old and two new, none of them were the quite the same. They all fit and were 100% the correct sensor but each one had slightly different part marking from the supplier and had a different torque limiter collar. Even the two Beck Arnley Parts I got from Amazon that came in the same Beck Arnely Boxes where different. It's not a big deal, just an observation.

Edited May 10, 2012 by RedRider3141

[Howie]

That's awesome! Great ending to the story. Don't ever go back to the dealer again!

[Towncivilian]

Great that it was just a sensor! Thanks for sharing your findings.

[RedRider3141]

So here I am 3 years and ~14,000 miles later and I got a P1140 code, I'm assuming that one of my sensors went belly up and died. I've heard that these sensors to die but this seems a little short.... How long are you guys getting out of your sensors? OEM or aftermarket?