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Project 95 Pathfinder Resurrection


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Can you link us to the front LSD that you got from calmini? Its not on their site....

 

Also can you list all the bushings that you replaced? I'm working on replacing my torsion bars, ball joints and control arm bushings to make the ride smoother and quieter.... great rig! looks badass

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I'm just going to take a wild guess...

Unless you really meant "IT" for the rear. lol

 

  • These high quality, polyurethane bushings come with machined sleeves and Trailing Arm Bolts
  • Replaces stock trailing arm bushings in REARsuspennsion
  • New split bushing design for do it yourself installation
  • Trailing arm bolts are Grade 10.9 bolts. Also includes nuts.
  • Old stock bolts often rust in place and may need to be cut or drilled out to be removed.
Edited by Kyle94
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I'm just going to take a wild guess...

Unless you really meant "IT" for the rear. lol

 

What I meant was are those the same bushings he used in the rear of his pathfinder (the red bushings that you can see in the pics above)............

 

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv348/Ryan95Sanman/Truck%20Build/IMGP0248_zpsa76cd3e2.jpg

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Hey just wanted to know some more info on the coil spacers?? My be just the amount of lift I want for right now.

 

James

 

I started a thread elsewhere on the forum looking for some suggestions. This should tell you everything. If you're looking for something else, let me know.

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34795-coil-spring-spacer-option/

 

Looking good! Surprised you didn't do differential drop down bushings at the same time as your front diff install.

 

Post more pics of the snorkel install. Did you get that from 4x4parts?

 

I did consider the drop bushings. It was actually part of my original plan. I guess I just forgot about it. I see you have them. Do you find them to be beneficial?

 

The snorkel did come for 4x4 parts. I'll try to take some more photos of what needed to be discarded and what needed to be modified, to make it more clear. I Just don't have time right now to upload etc.

 

Can you link us to the front LSD that you got from calmini? Its not on their site....

 

Also can you list all the bushings that you replaced? I'm working on replacing my torsion bars, ball joints and control arm bushings to make the ride smoother and quieter.... great rig! looks badass

 

This is the LSD. I see that Calmini has changed their site. Now the LSD only shows up under the hardbody section. Not sure why, it shouldn't be any different. R200A in a hardbody should be the same as R200A in a Pathfinder.

 

https://www.calmini.com/detail.php?b=1&m=4&t=3&p=961&n=

 

The bushings that you linked above are for 96 - 04.

 

Here's a list of the bushings I've replaced. I mixed and matched, bought some through 4x4 parts and some through Rugged Rocks. I hear some people have bought these through Summit Racing as well. Everything was Energy Suspension except for the panhard bushings.

 

Rear

 

- Rear trailing arm bushings (upper and lower, link below does all)

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-split-design-trailing-arm-bushings-4pack-p-6245.html

- Panhard bushings (can't find them through 4x4 parts anymore, although this is where I bought them)

- I haven't run a rear sway bar in years so no bushing replacement there.

 

Front

- Upper Control Arm Bushings (new UCA's didn't come with bushings)

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/upper-control-arm-bushings-p-4131.html

- Lower Control Arm Bushings (Can't find the energy suspension ones on 4x4 parts)

- Strut Rod Bushings

- Front Sway Bar Bushings

 

Hope this answers some questions. I know there's some other really good threads on this forum specifically relating to bushing replacement / parts numbers etc.

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Awesome! How do you like having an LSD in the front diff? Does it crab walk when in 2H when making tight turns? How is the drivability on and offroad?

 

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/control-arm-bushing-kit-p-4125.html

 

I'm not sure if this covers everything needed for the front (im doing the ball joints too)

 

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-bushings-pathfinder-front-bushings-c-435_377_349_741.html

 

Here are the front bushings list for our model - what else do I need? Ive already replaced the sway bar bushings which has only made the older parts even louder! lol

 

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-torsion-bars-p-94.html

 

Also thinking about getting these - the front end is sagging and I want some additional performance when taking bumps... right now the ride is pretty harsh even with new Rancho RS5000's....

Edited by enkrypt3d
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I have to say I notice little if any difference between how my truck handled with flogged-out rubber strut rod bushings and how it handles with poly. Other parts may have more impact on handling, but I'd be surprised if there was a noticeable difference in handling between the two.

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I would just go with the oem rubber ones if you don't plan on offroading it a lot. I found the polyurethane ones made you "feel the road" a lot more if you know what I mean. Handling improvements were negligible anyway. FWIW I had upgraded the strut rod, rear link, sway bar, and front UCA bushings.

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What is your review (performance / drivability etc) of the new LSD in the front end?

 

I haven't driven it yet. Trucks still on blocks, though I don't see it being an issue in 2wd and manual hubs unlocked :shrug:

 

+ 1 for that lucas product

 

I think you're referring to the tubes of grease in the top photo. Yeah, great stuff. Used it mainly for wheel bearings and chassis points. I only had so much formula 5 that came with the bushings, so I used a valvoline moly based grease on those, hopefully they don't squeak too much.

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Just an FYI for those of you looking for bushings/bump stops. Amazon sells quite a few that work with our Pathfinder's as well. For the front is as follows:

 

Upper Bump Stop: Energy Suspension 9.9102R Low Profile Bump Stop - Pack of 2

Lower Bump Stop: Energy Suspension 9.9101R Universal Bump Stop Red All

Strut Rod Bushings: Energy Suspension 7.7106R Strut Rod Set for Nissan

Control Arm Bushings (All): Energy Suspension 7.3102R Central Arm Bushing for Nissan

 

All the above can be found on Amazon. The picture is wrong in Amazon for the lower bump stops, but it will work. It's a universal bump stop that can be cut to suit. Google just the part number and you'll find a correct picture. Also, Amazon isn't always right about whether or not it will fit your vehicle. For example Amazon says the Upper Bump Stops don't fit Pathfinder, but they do. Sorry for the thread jack.

 

Nice job on the build. Looks like you are doing it right from the get go. You might have you have more flex than you think once you take it out on the road. Very hard to simulate the full weight load transfer in the garage with jacks. I did something similar to see how the rear stuff in the wheel well and though all should be good. However, in reality....it'll jam in there pretty good.

 

P6190071.jpg

 

I don't have coil spacers so you'll have some added push to keep out of the well, but just be aware it may go up in there farther than you think

Edited by andreus009
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IMGP0185_zpseabca94c.jpg

Here's the headers ready for paint. Can you tell which one had header wrap installed?? I know that the wrap traps heat and leads to corrosion, but it also saves other things form melting so it's kind of a double edged sword. Hopefully the new paint will last at least as long as the original pacesetter ceramic coating did. (2 years maybe)

Well I hope you guys are enjoying my build thread so far. I am learning a lot, and really enjoying building up my pathfinder. I'm to the point now where I just want to get out and wheel it.

 

I had similar concerns with heat so I used heat sheath by Design Engineering on hoses and such that ran near the the passenger exhaust header.

 

http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/dei-cycle/line-sleeving/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving

 

It's been on there a couple years and has held up pretty well. If you are interested I can take photo and post it here.

Edited by andreus009
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Just saw this thread. Good job spending the time and money to bring your rig back to life. Looking good.

 

Thanks for the props.

 

Just an FYI for those of you looking for bushings/bump stops. Amazon sells quite a few that work with our Pathfinder's as well. For the front is as follows:

 

Upper Bump Stop: Energy Suspension 9.9102R Low Profile Bump Stop - Pack of 2

Lower Bump Stop: Energy Suspension 9.9101R Universal Bump Stop Red All

Strut Rod Bushings: Energy Suspension 7.7106R Strut Rod Set for Nissan

Control Arm Bushings (All): Energy Suspension 7.3102R Central Arm Bushing for Nissan

 

All the above can be found on Amazon. The picture is wrong in Amazon for the lower bump stops, but it will work. It's a universal bump stop that can be cut to suit. Google just the part number and you'll find a correct picture. Also, Amazon isn't always right about whether or not it will fit your vehicle. For example Amazon says the Upper Bump Stops don't fit Pathfinder, but they do. Sorry for the thread jack.

 

Nice job on the build. Looks like you are doing it right from the get go. You might have you have more flex than you think once you take it out on the road. Very hard to simulate the full weight load transfer in the garage with jacks. I did something similar to see how the rear stuff in the wheel well and though all should be good. However, in reality....it'll jam in there pretty good.

 

 

 

I don't have coil spacers so you'll have some added push to keep out of the well, but just be aware it may go up in there farther than you think

 

I'm sure somebody will appreciate the amazon option. I bought most of my bump stops from AC, however Amazon would've been a good option.

 

You're flex is pretty impressive. Are you running factory bump stops in the rear, or have you removed them. Mine doesn't currently have any bump stops and with only a 2" body lift, I'm a little concerned about tearing out the fenders. I'm not afraid of trimming, if I can figure out where to remove. I've already trimmed the hell out of the front for this.

 

I had similar concerns with heat so I used heat sheath by Design Engineering on hoses and such that ran near the the passenger exhaust header.

 

http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/dei-cycle/line-sleeving/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving

 

It's been on there a couple years and has held up pretty well. If you are interested I can take photo and post it here.

 

I've already bought some of these exact same shields. I haven't installed them yet, but plan to add them and the wrap. The heat wrap worked very well for heat, but as you can tell, after 2 years of use, the passenger side header is showing some corrosion. I'm thinking that with the new paint I've put on and wrap, if I can get 2 more years out of them I'm happy, then I'll upgrade to something better quality.

 

when is it going to be on the road!? :)

 

I'm hoping to have it running this or next weekend, obviously depending on what else comes up. It will be far from finished. I'll still have to figure out something for fender flares,mudflaps, rear bumper, I have to modify the front bumper for the body lift, install rock sliders. I need to replace my centerlink and upgrade the steering. I also will have some body work to do (couple dents and some rust in the floor). So needless to say, there's lots left.

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In the picture I still had the factory bump stops but later found them self destructed (mostly due to dry rot/age) so I installed these:

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00387A15Q/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (3" Bump Stops)

 

However, after installing them I can flex it like shown in the picture and still the bump stops aren't touching the perch. I should have probably gone with these:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Prothane-19-1311-Multi-Mount-Suspension-Bump/dp/B00387A2AK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=T7U27WZF6EZ3&coliid=IZI5FA83FP6GC (41/2" Bump Stops)

 

My plan is to add 2x2 box spacer behind my 3" Bump Stops. Hoping it won't over limit me on the flex, but if it does I'll probably try to find some 1x2 box. The 2x2 box was free. As a side note, if you should choose to use these you can use one of the existing bump stop holes, but you'll have to drill a second hole and put a nut inside the frame rail. It's a little tricky but doable.

 

In the picture you can see the wheel is touching the fender well. I've had it rub like this while actually moving and haven't ripped a fender yet and its rubbed pretty hard on occasion. I'll try to post up some pics of where it rubs later on.

 

In my build went for a 3" body lift only w/o suspension lift. I wanted to avoid bad CV angles. My suggestion is if you want bump stops then once your are done building it go find some place to flex it hard and measure. I did mine based upon garage measurements and it didn't quite work out, but unfortunately I didn't have a good place to flex it close to home.

 

 

Amazon has turned out to be a great place to buy car parts. I have a Prime membership which costs like $70/$90 a year but you get free 2 day shipping on alot of items. What I have saved in shipping has more than paid for the membership. Plus I get things faster than I would from most other places w/o paying for expedited shipping.

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  • 1 year later...

I actually just got it on the road a couple weeks ago. Alignment went good. It's back in the garage again doing some body work around the fenders. I have to get fender flares mounted. It looks super aggressive with tires hanging out 3"+ past the fenders. I'll also get a ticket in a hurry if seen on the road with it.

 

The gears are pretty amazing. With 5:13 I can't even tell it's rolling on 33" x 12.5" tires. It honestly feel like more power than when it was stock.

 

I have a steep gravel driveway so with the real locker and aggressive tires, it wants to chew everything up when I drive up into the garage. I do put it into 4wd just to keep the rear end from chewing everything up and you can tell the front LSD is there. It makes it much more difficult to turn than when it was open. I just saw your other thread regarding the LSD and shims so I'll post up some info for you.

 

Sorry for not keeping this thread updated. It's been hard enough finding time to complete the project, never mind keeping a build thread up to date. I honestly considered selling it unfinished a couple months ago due to the time required to complete.

 

Sorry no offroad test yet, soon hopefully.

 

 

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  • 11 months later...

I think he is referring to the fact that his tires now extend past the fender flairs, which I'm pretty sure is illegal in Canada and the US if its registered for the street.

 

The only time I've heard of people getting busted is coming out of spots the cops know people go mudding. They sit and wait for trucks to come out to check for fenders and to make sure they are not tracking back too much mud back on the highway.

 

Nice man lets see some pics! yours is not street legal?

 

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  • 3 months later...

Ok I I've read over this three times now and I didn't see anything regarding your sweet 4x4 Safari edition vinyls were those stock???!? If no where did you get them

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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