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How to: Replace Strut Rod Bushings


hcr32
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  • 4 weeks later...

the 2 that go through the lower control arm?

 

Soak them in PB Blaster or equivalent, have any way to heat them? or worse thing cut or grind the heads off.

 

I would cut the head off the bolts as close to the arm as you can get, than use a grinder to take off some more of the bolt head, until you can use a punch to knock the remaining bolt head through the hole, yes you would need to get new bolts and nuts of course.

 

 

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^thats what I used 2' 1/2" breaker bar but I didn't have to push it with my feet :lol: then again, I blasted them with penetrant (orange can from princess auto) the night before, 2-3 hours before, and right before I did it. Only one rusted in but with some love with a rubber mallet it came out.

 

I highly recommend (if you have 10$ and want the job to go by 3 times quicker) is a RATCHETING 15/16th wrench!! I was only able to turn it 1/6th of a turn every time... Pita

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I highly recommend (if you have 10$ and want the job to go by 3 times quicker) is a RATCHETING 15/16th wrench!! I was only able to turn it 1/6th of a turn every time... Pita

 

yep, wish I would have had one, woulda been alot quicker

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Just did this yesterday, very very happy that I did and that this write up was available. The hole in the frame bracket was about 1.5x the normal size allowing the bar to slap around in there and make an awful clatter. Thanks for the info, any longer and I fear it would have been the end of the bar and possibly causing an accident.

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  • 1 month later...

I am in the process of doing mine now, while tightening up the nut on the end of the rod I noticed it was bottoming out before it went as far down the rod as the other side. I compared the new parts to the old and found the new spacers are about 3/8 of an inch longer than the old ones. The new bushings are quite a bit thicker than the old ones as well. Not sure if the difference in bushing thickness is just due to age or if they might be made thicker than the originals as well. I have one side done and wanted to get some input before I do the other side in case I needed to pull it back apart.

 

What do you think?

018a.jpg

 

019a.jpg

 

Edited by NC95Pathfinder
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Your old bushings have definitely shrunk from being pounded and under pressure. Are the new ones dealership items?

 

It shouldn't matter that the new pieces are longer, what matters is that the bushings are properly in place and loaded so they carry the position of the bushing sleeve/rod. Do you get any movement out of the rod end or bushings and are they compressed?

 

B

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The new bushings are from Auto Zone since I work there. The bushings are compressed and everything is tight. was just hoping that they would be compressed enough to stay that way in the long run. It seemed to drive ok on yesterday's test drive and the ride to and from work today. The pull to the left is now less pronounced and it doesn't wander as much on uneven road surfaces like it did.

The pic I posted was from the passenger side, it didn't look that bad, but the driver side one was worn through the sleeve and the rear half of the bushing came out in two pieces so it was definitely in need of replacement.

 

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Ok, it sounds like you are ok, and they might last reasonably long. The option would be to shorten the sleeve a little as well.

 

Personally, I think those bushings should be a 60k mile/5 year maintenance item at least. I have seen so many broken, rusted through, bushing cups gone and holes ovaled out that it is rediculous!

 

B

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  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

I am thinking of doing this. I've been wanting to start atleast trying to learn how to do front end work and start trying to replace all those bushings and tie rod ends and ball joints and stuff but it seems / looks incredibly intimidating.

 

After reading this particular write up atleast I think I can pull this one off and I'm looking forward to doing it. I've seen bits and pieces on other threads about poly-urethane bushings? I guess as opposed to natural rubber bushings? I'm gonna have to research this.

 

After replacing the front compression rod bushings, what can I expect to change in the ride of the vehicle, will it be smoother or less jarring over bumps? What's the benefit, other than keeping the front end tight(er).

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It'll track better. When the bushings are shot the LCAs are allowed to move back and forth causing a pull one way or the other on uneven surfaces. When they're really really shot the tires can wobble like mad after smacking a pot hole or something like that AKA "death wobble."

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Then there is where they have egged out the hole through the frame, lost the bushing cups and corroded enough that the rods snap. Nothing wrong with the design, but they should be checked at reasonable intervals (I recommend 60k miles) and more frequently in salt country.

 

B

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  • 5 months later...

I am going to fix my struts and I have a question.

I am going to weld on bearing races. Searching the forum, I found that 2 types of races being used, LM67010 and L68111.

Are there any differences between the races? I have the L68111 race.

 

Thanks, Jörgen

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Thankfully, Timken is a forward thinking company that readily supplies all dimensions and information. I'm going to let you determine the difference because I have a headache...

http://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/item-29320 L68111

http://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/item-28644 LM67010

 

Sorry, I have no idea which is better or if they are so close that it doesn't matter.

 

B

  • Like 1
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Thanks :), that was useful!

They are the same. The dimension Da=55,9 mm (2.24 in) on both races.

 

Edited by jolut
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