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leeuniverse

EGR Function Check Engine Light problem.....? RESOLVED!

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UPDATE: See below for the latest!

UPDATE 2: RESOLVED!

 

Hey all....

 

My new pathy had some check engine codes. At first was apparently the EGR valve and Knock Sensor.

Replaced both, they cleaned the intake manifold also and I changed the PCV, was still getting an EGR Function code, so replaced the EGR Sensor, and then next I'm replacing the EGR Control Solenoid hoping that will finally get rid of the problem. The service manual seems to say that for the EGR Function error, the EGR Valve or the EGRC Solenoid could be the problem. My next try after the solenoid will be the Vapor/Carbon Canister.

 

What are your all thoughts? I'm worried I'm going to keep going and going and not fix the problem.

Anyone had any experience in this? I have to get rid of the Check Engine light because I'm going to likely be moving to a city and I won't be able to pass smog then. I'm poor and unemployed and I'm already spending all I have left trying to get the vehicle reliable.

 

Thoughts?

Edited by leeuniverse

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remove the EGR diverter, It looks like a cover plate above the EGR but when you pull it out you will find its got a fluted tube on it. (note the direction of the arrow when you pull it)

 

 

Heat the diverter with a torch until the carbon deposits start to glow on the edges and then knock them loose with a screw driver. (its most likely plugged)

 

Once clean and clear re-install with a fresh EGR gasket or red RTV.

 

Hope this solves it.

Edited by MY1PATH

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Did you look at the BPT valve? It has a vacuum line from it that goes to the EGR valve. Check the small rubber hose under it and make sure it is not cracked and leaking.

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remove the EGR diverter, It looks like a cover plate above the EGR but when you pull it out you will find its got a fluted tube on it. (note the direction of the arrow when you pull it)

 

 

Heat the diverter with a torch until the carbon deposits start to glow on the edges and then knock them loose with a screw driver. (its most likely plugged)

 

Once clean and clear re-install with a fresh EGR gasket or red RTV.

 

Hope this solves it.

 

I've already put a new EGR Valve in (which includes the flying saucer top "diverter???"), so didn't I already fix that problem?

Not sure what you mean by EGR "Diverter"? Is it another item somewhere? Can you show me a pic?

Edited by leeuniverse

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Did you look at the BPT valve? It has a vacuum line from it that goes to the EGR valve. Check the small rubber hose under it and make sure it is not cracked and leaking.

 

I don't believe I have a BPT valve on my model, I have a EGR Control Vacuum Solenoid valve, which I think does some of what the BPT does?

The EGRC is the next thing I'm changing. Had to order it from Nissan or something, no one had it.

Edited by leeuniverse

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I've already put a new EGR Valve in (which includes the flying saucer top "diverter???"), so didn't I already fix that problem?

Not sure what you mean by EGR "Diverter"? Is it another item somewhere? Can you show me a pic?

 

It looks like a cover plate above the EGR but when you pull it out you will find its got a fluted tube on it. (note the direction of the arrow when you pull it)

 

It looks like a block off plate man! it sits right above the EGR port. It is the same size and shape as the EGR gasket minus the hole and it has a little arrow stamped on it.

 

 

Use your eyes!

Edited by MY1PATH
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Okay, I found it.... Sorry for the "obvious", but I didn't have access to my vehicle at the time, so I was going from memory. Didn't know that was there. I didn't need the "jerk" statements though.

I'm pissed off now.... My mechanic should have known to do that before he put the EGR valve on.

 

I'm planning on doing Mopar's Carbon Cleaner MCCC through the intake, will that get in there an eat the gunk if I spray a bunch in that direction, so I don't have to take off the EGR Valve again?

 

Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it.

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The carbon on that little diverter tube is baked in there, its easiest to bake it out and break the chunks loose with a screw driver. we are taking about 1/4"-1/2" chunks of carbon deposits best to slide the piece out than to let them fall in the engine.

I have looked at 3 so far and they were all about 90% clogged.

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Hey MY1PATH..... Just wanted to let you know that the "egr diverter" was the ENTIRE problem!!!

I made my mechanic pull off the egr valve and the diverter and the diverter was COMPLETELY FULL of carbon.

The idiot didn't even have a torch at the moment, they hadn't refilled the tanks, so they had to use gas, screwdriver and scrapping to get it all cleaned. (Although one good thing, is my mechanic knew to start the engine for it to blow out the carbon crap before sicking the EGR and Diverter back on.)

 

They stuck it back in, they unhooked the battery, that apparently didn't work, so I cleared the check engine light with the computer, the check engine light then sputtered off and on for a bit of driving, then it's remained completely off.

 

All along that looks like it was the entire problem. So I changed the EGR Valve for nothing, the Sensor for nothing, and had already ordered the EGRC Solenoid, and can't return, so will be changing that for nothing. Of course, changing all these likely would have to have been done anyway, but I could have saved a bit of money I don't have for the time being.

 

Anyway, my idiot mechanic didn't even know about the egr diverter, which simply amazed me since even thought most cars don't have it, I've cleaned it myself once years ago with a car I had. So, he didn't know to check that. He's a pretty good mechanic, but clearly not as good as I thought, especially if even I remember when I was young cleaning that out myself on an old car. Even the shop manager didn't know about it. That should have been the very first thing they checked and cleaned before recommending I change other things. $500 wasted for nothing.....

 

So, no more check engine light.... Thank you SO much. If it hadn't been for you, I would have ended up going to more and more things.

 

Much thanks! :)

 

BTW, I've SeaFoamed everything, the engine, gas, through the vacuum, and did the Tranny SeaFoam also.

I will still likely do the Mopar Carbon Cleaner for an extra clean, I just have to find it. It might do better since it's a foamer, and SeaFoam oddly I guess isn't??? huh? Or maybe it does since it's in the name?

 

By the way, the can say's it's safe for the Sensor's.

Also, the O'Reilly's store I bought it from, had a SeaFoam demo guy come, and he actually SeaFoamed their cars, and he showed the before and after with special viewing tools inside the engine etc., and it DOES actually work as claimed. It's not as many believe simply burning off the SeaFoam itself. It IS cleaning out the carbon, etc. as claimed.

Edited by leeuniverse

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Do you still have the old EGR valve. Test it and if its good keep is as a spare. I never buy new ones I just go to the JY and test them.

 

When closed they should not allow ANY air past them (now wipe your lips lol)

then apply suction to the little tube on the top (you can use a hand held vacuum pump silly) to be sure that the Diaphragm and needle valve inside move together. An Vacuum tester is less than $20 and a working used EGR is usually about $10-$20

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Thanks for the info. Me, I figure it's best just to go new with those since they commonly go bad anyway.

It's not all bad that I had to change these parts, it's just I had to do them much sooner than expected.

 

But, thanks again, I really needed that info, since having idiots for a shop.

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Hey guys.... Here's the latest.

 

As you know the light wen't off for a good amount of time. However, today the light came back on.

In between the time, I Seafoamed everything. The Engine, gas, Tranny, and through the Vacuum.

 

My mechanic says my problem is likely the Catalytic converter. It was likely a little plugged already and then with the cleaning that caused it to get plugged up more, which according to them can also shoot carbon "back" through the system, and still cause the similar seeming problems.

 

Loss of power is supposed to be a symptom, and I've always thought that it didn't seem to have the "pick-up and go" like other cars normally do. It seems to have a very low power to it.

Also, during the colder days I get a gas smell in the back of the pathy. We thought it might be the gas tank "seal", but gas smell is often a symptom of the catalytic converter from what I here?

 

Anyway, that is where I'm at..... Any ideas guys? Could it be a CAT like claimed? It seems pretty old, and with all the carbon in the system, it might indeed be clogged?

 

Thoughts?

Edited by leeuniverse

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My 95 did seem to pick up a bit with a new (stock spec) exhaust. I'm not sure if that was due to the leaks it used to have or the new cat (mine actually came with two, both of which were probably clogged). It had no CEL before or after.

 

Have you run the codes again? I don't think there's a sensor for a clogged cat. It might be something else coming up because of the cat, or something else entirely.

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Ya, cleared and ran the codes again. Still the EGR Function code. Looking through the service manual, there is also no trouble shooting for the CAT, at least in relation to the EGR. Yes, and you are correct, there is no Error code for the CAT.

 

I've talked to a Desiel mechanic friend, and while he can't be entirely sure with OBD1's, he said the symptoms described might be correct.

I'm thinking the CAT will have to be taken off, the car ran to shoot out any Carbon, then the EGR Valve, Diverter, and hoses taken off, made sure they are clear and again starting the car to shoot any carbon, then sticking everything back on and a new CAT and that hopefully will fix the problem???

 

I'm still trying to find Mopar Carbon Cleaner, cause I want to do that once before I do the above, to hopefully get rid of all the carbon.

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Ya, cleared and ran the codes again. Still the EGR Function code. Looking through the service manual, there is also no trouble shooting for the CAT, at least in relation to the EGR. Yes, and you are correct, there is no Error code for the CAT.

 

I've talked to a Desiel mechanic friend, and while he can't be entirely sure with OBD1's, he said the symptoms described might be correct.

I'm thinking the CAT will have to be taken off, the car ran to shoot out any Carbon, then the EGR Valve, Diverter, and hoses taken off, made sure they are clear and again starting the car to shoot any carbon, then sticking everything back on and a new CAT and that hopefully will fix the problem???

 

I'm still trying to find Mopar Carbon Cleaner, cause I want to do that once before I do the above, to hopefully get rid of all the carbon.

Have you checked to make sure all your connections are good and tight and your not just suffering from a bad electrical connection. Shouldn't need a mechanic for that one.

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Ya, it's definitely Carbon related. The moment I cleaned out the fully plugged diverter, it was all good.

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Well, discovered it WAS apparently the Catalytic Converter, and maybe also the EGR Control Solenoid. (changed both at the same time)

No check engine light after 5 days, so it looks good so far. Knock on wood.

 

Anyway, thanks for the help.

 

BTW... Also put in my Tranny Cooler all by myself even. :)

Just took off the front grill found two bolts, and hooked up the hoses.

Will still stick in a simple inline filter later, ran out of money.

Edited by leeuniverse

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Thought I'd share some pics of the EGR Diverter (Nissan parts calls it a "TUBE GUIDE"). Thanks to all the contributors to this post, it helped me out ALOT, i mean, COMPLETELY!!! First pic shows the diverter location, note the arrow points up. Second pic shows the valve all clogged up! NO exhaust was gonna be recirculated into the intake!!! Third pic shows the valve somewhat cleaned (and all the gunk that came out of it! I used a small flathead screwdriver, shop towels and brake cleaner...a round bristle/bore brush probably would've worked better).

 

12306705704_ab79bd3d9b.jpg

12307362576_72d7c2f23a.jpg

12306439063_6db82db46f.jpg

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How do you get the EGR Diverter off? I got the bolts out and tried to pry it off with a flat head screwdriver but it is like baked on I guess, it wouldn't budge. 

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I can't remember if I ever took mine off or not. I wouldn't be surprised if carbon buildup has it seized right proper in its bore. A good tap with a hammer in the middle of the plate might jar the thing loose. Failing that, I'd see if I could get the thing to pivot in its hole, like removing a stubborn hose. Tapping on either mounting ear with a hammer and punch or screwdriver would probably do it. Looks like it's thick enough metal to cope with some abuse, but obviously avoid going full gorilla, especially if you're planning on reusing the gasket.

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On 3/29/2019 at 4:45 PM, Slartibartfast said:

A good tap with a hammer in the middle of the plate

That did it, flat head screwdriver at top middle of plate and a whack with the hammer.  I was afraid I was going to tear  up the gasket but it came out ok. That thing was caked full of build-up, got it all cleaned out and EGR seems to be functioning correctly also. Unfortunately my pathy is still running like @!*%, let the troubleshooting continue...

Edited by headpeace

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