wd21overland Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Awesome and you are threading out the adjusters to use the proper outer TRE correct?? Yeah my current parts pathfinder is using the stock 2wd HB outer tierod ends for the test and works fine but if you look at them they have a bend in them that puts the outer tre at a high angle. It works fine right now but i will be using the pathfinder 4wd outer tre with retaped sleeves on my 92 pathy. 2wd outer 4wd outer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 What's funny is that the 2WD (18mm) tie rods are 2mm thicker than the 4WD (16mm) tie rods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 (edited) What's funny is that the 2WD (18mm) tie rods are 2mm thicker than the 4WD (16mm) tie rods. Yeah you would have thought they would have designed it the other way. Edited February 20, 2012 by wd21overland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Interesting... I would be curious to see if the HooHaa (OMG I said it!) design (Welding in a sleeve with bearings in place of the balljoint) would benefit here... It seems like a viable plan... I would be curious to know how it does on a trail... I would venture to guess that the ball joint on the 2wd CL would still wear much like the 4wd CL... Time will tell... Keep us up to date! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Honestly I only thought it would be a problem but everyone else is saying that it isn't. The 2wd link is still a much better design where HooHaa's link is only a band-aid. The ball joints on the 2wd link are much less wear prone than on the 4wd link because the angles are completely different. Either way you do it, both will work just fine. I like the 2wd link swap method more because it's just easier to get the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 No beef on that one here! I agree, there are plenty of 2wd trucks here in the bone yards... Only issue is that if the CL wears at an accelerated rate due to a torsion bar crank... then the same issue would need to be addressed...(HooHaa style on 2wd CL) or just replace it with a new factory style 2wd CL...and begin the process over again. I dont know about you guys but I cannot afford to just go and drop $100+ on a new CL every time it wears out... I wanna know how this system works!! Anyone been hard on it yet? Oh yea, got some pictures up of my 4wd factory CL failing before my HooHaa... it was a BRAND NEW CL that died....put it on the night before... (Parts came from Rock Auto.) Here is a picture... Here is the link to the rest of them... http://www.torymoore.com/pathfinder/dougsplace.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 the 2wd link will prevent this exact problem from happening because the tie rods have much more room to flex in hoohaa's link also prevents this problem because it does not let the center link flex upward and bend the tie rods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amfq120 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Just paid for my grassroots steering system! Should have it in a few days. I tried to put my idler arm brace on the other day and it would not match up and fit on. I figure this is because there is some bending on the CL. Hopefully it will work after, and if not I'll pick up a dummy box and pitman and go that route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I am almost done putting the steering build portion of my site together...it explains in detail the dummy box/HooHaa setup...I will link to this thread as wel for future Pathfinder owners down the road so that they can make a decision regarding their steering systems... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) As I do not have time to completely post the steering section right this moment, I will post a link to a video I made shortly after my IFS failed... It describes as best I could the nature of the CL issue... (This video is old, way before the HooHaa/2WD debate started.) Edited February 22, 2012 by tmoore4512 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Just paid for my grassroots steering system! Should have it in a few days. I tried to put my idler arm brace on the other day and it would not match up and fit on. I figure this is because there is some bending on the CL. Hopefully it will work after, and if not I'll pick up a dummy box and pitman and go that route. What idler arm brace did you get? I bought a 'used' (unmounted) Calmini IAB that was so far off that it couldn't be mounted (see linky in my signature). I then bought a new AC (4x4parts) brace that was poorly clearanced, but mounted up fine and should be sufficient... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 What idler arm brace did you get? I bought a 'used' (unmounted) Calmini IAB that was so far off that it couldn't be mounted (see linky in my signature). I then bought a new AC (4x4parts) brace that was poorly clearanced, but mounted up fine and should be sufficient... B My calmini right side bolt holes didn't line up i had to slot mine which i didn't really want to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 All my parts have arrived so i will tap out the adjusters and install everything with a write up so people have a better idea of what it looks like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Cool... My parts are on the way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Awesome, can't wait!! My CL is already getting loose frofrom my 33s lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Just got my parts today! I verified that the 4WD idler arm has the correct taper for the 2WD center link. All the MOOG parts are actually stamped Made in Japan too. The idler arm is from ACDelco and also stamped Made in Japan. Yes, this photo was taken with a toaster but most people will get the point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 any updates?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 X2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeuniverse Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) I'm a Newbie, and my "joints" are loose, and so I'm wanting to change everything to the good system. Can someone show me exactly what I need for my 93 4WD? The way to go seems to be RockAuto Parts, and I tried to follow these instructions: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32345&view=findpost&p=610966 Are these all the parts I need to make it work in mine? Only thing is I get hung up on the last listing. It's no longer listed under the listing. It still lists the "Outer" with that name but not the inner. A search of the sight apparently still finds it, but it looks like the wrong part and name, i.e. they switched parts for the part #??? Anyway, I just need a list of what I need, and where to get the parts the cheapest new, and basic instructions. Thanks much.... P.S. I've read the thread twice trying to follow, but then I get confused. Also clarify the "tapping 18mm" thing. At first I thought that simply meant some adjustment, but then another post seemed to say a "machine shop" was required??? Here's some pics you all can use to explain to us all the process.... Edited March 8, 2012 by leeuniverse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) In both diagrams, there are two parts labeled 'tie rod assembly.' Each is made of two tie rod ends (TREs) and a sleeve that they both screw into. The Hardbody centerlink doesn't work with the Pathfinder inner tie rod ends, and the Pathfinder knuckles don't meet the Hardbody outers very well, so you have to make a hybrid tie rod (HB inners, Pathy outers). The hangup is that the two have different-sized threaded ends, and so won't fit into the same center sleeve. The solution is to take the smaller sleeve (Pathfinder), enlarge the hole, and re-thread ('tap') it to accept the Hardbody tie rod end. At that point, you just thread the TREs into the modified sleeve, then mount them to the centerlink and knuckle. It appears that you just get the centerlink, Hardbody inner TREs, and Pathfinder outer TREs, then have a machine shop modify the original Pathfinder sleeves. This is, to the best of my knowledge, all you need. Hopefully once somebody gets the full proper system done up, we'll get a nice write-up and some pics. Any updates, guys? Edited March 8, 2012 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeuniverse Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Ah.... That all makes sense now. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Yeah seriously I want to see this thing done properly and in action!!! My CL is seriously worn... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kafike Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 So what is the advantage of using the Pathy outer TREs? Wouldn't it be easier to use the HB TREs instead of tapping out the Pathy adjusters? Or did I miss something? I may go this route instead of the HooHaa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 The hardbody outer tie rod have an offset and a bend right before the outer tie rod ball joint itself which go the wrong way and limit the amount of balljoint travel on the tie rod. The pathy outers are just straight to allow a proper angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 My calmini right side bolt holes didn't line up i had to slot mine which i didn't really want to do. I've bought two Calmini idler braces that fit without any issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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