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918pathy
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Are the ball joints on a center lnk ends replacable, I have one that have the rubber boot all tore up on it. I been looking at online at Checker, Autozone, but they dont show it, only the entire center link. Its the boot that is on the Power steering side

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I'm not positive but I think you're talking about the inner tie rod ends. If so, yes they can be replaced, it should help your steering too if it's loose or wobbly at all.

Edit: Just looked under my truck and saw that I was forgetting about the ones built into the centerlink. Overlander is right, if it's those, you'll have to replace your whole centerlink. I'd suggest a hooha centerlink if you plan on doing a lot of offroading.

Edited by rwd5021
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As said above if its the one that connects the wheel to the center link via to tierod then yes.

 

But if its the ones that are build into the center link that connect to the idler and pitman arm then no you will need to replace the entire center link.

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Son of a !!!, mine is the ball joint on driver side the idler arm connects to the center link, it steers fine and seems ok pretty tight, just the rubber "boot" on it is cracked and torn

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Son of a !!!, mine is the ball joint on driver side the idler arm connects to the center link, it steers fine and seems ok pretty tight, just the rubber "boot" on it is cracked and torn

 

Yeah you will need a whole centerlink for that one i just got done replacing mine due to that exact joint going bad.

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http://purenissan.com/wd21_steering.htm

 

This is what you really need. The rest is ghetto rigged nonsense.

 

That grass roots link is an economical alternative but if you are going to go that way be sure to REINFORCE the idler arm with a brace.

Edited by Tungsten
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The Grassroots CL is far from ghetto rigged nonsense. I purchased one over a year ago and my steering is doing just fine. I do have a idler arm brace from 4x4parts, and a stock steering stabilizer. Buying the GR CL and a idler brace is still way cheaper and you wont have to wait a year to get it.

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Uhhh yea, sorry dude but the brass sleeved bushing setup is what is ghetto...IMO.

 

I deleted my idler arm and now run a dummy box (until I finish the SAS)...

 

No issues whatsoever....matter of fact I have SERIOUSLY been hard on it, especially since I am doing the solid swap...it has held up through it all..

 

Ghetto, I think not!! Economical? Well it cost me $250 with 3 cores... still WAAAAY cheaper than Calmini ever thought about being...

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i said the grass roots was an economical alternative but it only removes one issue to add another

i'm sure it works fine but you will have to do something about the idler arm if you go that route

the dual ball joint setup on the center link is done so that the cheesy idler arm doesn't snap off and so that the tie rods don't ever bind

it's a really crappy system but it works

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Idler Arm Brace, Bracing on Idler Arm and Pitman Arm, Grassroots Centerlnk, And 1 Ton Chevy Tie Rods that fit the Centerlink Taper and are WAY stronger considering they are the same Tie rods chevy uses on its 3500 series trucks. Still plenty strong.

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Tung, was not trying to start a war man... I realize that opinions are like... well you know... That was just mine...

 

I am running GM tie rods as well, mainly because they don't bend as easily as the Nissan equivalent...

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I will have to look when I get home... I think I even saved the box ends for future reference.... For me it took a little bit of measuring...

 

I work PT at AZ, and when we were slow one day I took the factory replacement for the Pathfinder and lined it up. with the equivalent 1 ton Chevrolet.

 

I replaced the adjusting sleeve as well, because if I remember correctly it was quite a bit larger than factory...

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This is from about 30 mins in moab on metal masher on stock ifs and snapped one in half:

2011-12-19_17-47-53_790.jpg

 

DSCN6578-1.jpg

 

I'm going with these that I've made and changing the taper to Chevy 1tons haven't figured out which ones for sure...also will make a custom CL until I can SAS...i also have an IAB

2012-01-27_19-17-22_927.jpg

 

 

 

This with some new LCA bushings should allow me to beat on her hard enough till I get the SAS...

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I don't know how many have done this before in the past but someone on facebook suggested swapping to a Hardbody 2WD setup.

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/hardbody-truck-parts-d21u-1995-1997/genuine-nissan-parts/steering/485-steering-linkage/-c-5388_5389_5499_5502.html

Edited by Tungsten
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