wd21overland Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 (edited) OK so I got bored today and since there are A LOT of Headlight Problems coming up recently I wanted to make a complete write up on everything headlights. Ok to start the Factory headlight system is horrible in its design since it doesn’t incorporate a headlight relay, meaning all power from the headlights run from the headlight fuses through the tiny brass connecters in the headlight switch to the headlights which is far from ideal. Ok to start at the beginning the Power for the headlight first come from the battery. From there on the positive cable there is A black fusible link connector box. ( This send power to all electrical components minus the starter to check here when having random power issue the plastic is brittle from time and heat and in susceptible to damage.) Ok from there is 2 Fusible link connectors with 3 wires each. The Green connector is the one that has the power for the headlight light fuse the top prong in that connector supplies power to both headlight fuses. From there the 2 wires split and go to 2 headlight fuses . The box holding the fuses is mounted on the passenger side fender and houses 4 relays and the 2 fuses so there not hard to miss. (The holder is the one labeled 25235) From there headlight fuses the Red wire ( right side High and low beam ) and the Red wire with white stripes (left side high and low beam) route through the wiring harness going into the driver’s side fender well bulkhead going inside. If you remove the driver side inner fender plastic covering you can see the wiring loom going inside. From there the wiring splits off and goes Joint connector B (223m) which is at the driver’s side floor kick panel. From the connector the red and red/white stripes goes into another wiring loom heading to the steering column. (looking at it the 8 prong connector on the Left is for the headlights and parking lights 6 are for headlights and 2 are for the parking. The 3 prong on the Right are for the High beam switch over and the blue connector is for cruise control) At the Headlight switch connector the Red wire splits and powers the (Red with black stripe and Red with yellow stripe) (right side high low) and the Red with white stripes wires splits and power the (Red with Green stripe and red with Blue stripe) (left side high and low) Now that the wires are splits they all route through the headlight switch stalk into tiny brass/copper connections ( This is where a lot of problems can occur since there will wear out with time). The wires then go back out the headlight stalk into the headlight switch connector and back into the wire loom going down to Joint connector B again. From joint connector B the wiring goes back through the wiring loom splitting off to each headlight. The Red with black stripe and red with yellow stripe wiring going to the right side. The red with green stripe and red with blue stripe going to the left side. (Here is the wiring diagram that shows the wiring.) Also Nissan wiring color codes are alittle different then most so here is a chart to help for example (L) is actually blue for nissan. And finally we arrive at headlight socket LOL. If you’re wondering the ground wire for both headlight sockets goes to ground (12M) its located behind the battery screwed to the fender. ( I recommend cleaning that ground to keep your lights shining bright.) So there is a bunch of Useless info but should be a strong bases to go from in fixing all headlight problems. I do highly recommend installing a heavy duty headlight wiring harness with relays and sockets. The stock 18 gauge wiring is very tiny for what should be used and if you ever want to upgrade to higher watt bulbs or hid kits I highly recommend. You can buy you own 9004 heavy duty kit or make it with 2 heavy duty sockets and relays and 3 spools of different color wire. Just make sure you make or buy a kit with 12 gauge wiring to ensure you won’t have future problems. (This is the kit i purchased for $44 i could have made it for cheaper probably but the kit is well made and its 12 gauge and i like the cleaner look) (Too make life easier here is the simple install instructions for it.) Headlight Trouble Tree Chart. Steps. 1. First check to make sure you doesn’t have a burned out bulb. - Remove bulbs and verify filaments are there and not broken. 2. Verify you have 12v’s at both 15A headlight fuses which are located under relay cover on passenger side fender. - If no power at fuses check fusible links aren’t burnt and connections are solid going to fusible link box on battery terminal. 3. If power is present and fuses isn’t blown head inside the pathy. 4. Remove driver side Kick panel and find Joint Connector B (it will be a black 12 terminal connector bolted to the metal behind the kick panel trim. check for 12v on the solid red and red with white stripe wire. 5. If you don’t have 12v’s at the joint connector you have a broken wire between there and the engine bay. 6. If you have 12v’s continue and remove the 6 Philips screw holding the steering column trim on and disconnected the bigger headlight switch connector. 7. Once connector is removed check for power at the Solid red and red with white striped wire. - If power is there unbolt the headlight switch from column and plug the switch back in this will make back probing the wires easier. 8. Once the headlight switch is plug in turn the headlights and make sure one and check for 12v’s at the -Red with black stripe wire. (With High beams on) -Red with Yellow stripe wire. (With High Beams on) -Red with blue stripe wire. (With low beams on) -Red with green stripe wire. (With low beams on) 9. If 12v’s aren’t present at all of the wires you have a bad headlight switch. - You can removed the headlight switch and adjust and clean the internal copper contacts or you can purchase a new headlight switch for $45 to $55 at auto parts store. 10. Finally if you have power at all 4 wires you have an open connection between the headlight connector and the headlight sockets. -Check for burnt sockets (this will happen if you install High watt bulbs without upgrading to a heavy duty wiring harness. Thank you and have fun lol. Edited February 8, 2012 by wd21overland 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elcid Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 This is great info! thanks a lot! npw off to the junkyard to pull a headlight switch!!!! if that one fails then I will buy a new one!! thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Great writeup, it should help out a lot of people maybe it should be pinned, +1 on the heavy duty wiring it makes a hell of a difference in the brightness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Good job on this write up man! I can speak only good things of doing the relay/heavy duty wiring mod...EXCELLENT!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Personally, I don't like cheap and cheesy aftermarket relays. I would get some real Nissan relays and build one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Yeah, I bought some cheap and cheesy waterproof relays for my rewiring. For once, please realize that you do not know everything nor is everything you do the best way to do things, much less the only. Different strokes for different folks, man, that's what keeps it interesting... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 The 30 and 40 amp relays I got from the Zone have worked just dandy...And I am always driving with the lights on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 +1 to B^^ What's more ghetto, buying new relays at Autozone, or pulling old Nissan relays out of a junkyard? ... hey, they were $2 a piece, and I've had no trouble with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Buying ANYTHING from Autozone is more ghetto than pulling a OEM part out of the yard. You can use aftermarket relays as long as they are not some low grade junk. There is nothing like having no head lights in thick fog at night. BTW I am not using Nissan relays for my E-fan swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Excellent information!! I am about to upgrade my lighting system and this is just what I needed. Someone pin this!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Working on a pin/merge question for several good write-ups. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 (edited) On the 88 I used the 30/40 bosch relays from o'reilly for mine, and then went ghetto with my electric rad fan used a clutch inhibitor relay, only have the low speed on the taurus fan wired in but it seems to cool enough with the A/C. We made a Laughlin run last weekend from Elsinore and running the A/C most the way, never saw the gauge go over half way Edited February 11, 2012 by vagabond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 I am not saying that the AZ relays are any better then the factory relays, but I have not had an issue yet... And when I do, well its an easy swap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain_Crazy Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Anybody know why my hi beams won't work, 1991 pathfinder 2 wheel drive? when i switch to high beams it just goes completely dark at night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Anybody know why my hi beams won't work, 1991 pathfinder 2 wheel drive? when i switch to high beams it just goes completely dark at night. The obvious is that you should have started your own thread. The other obvious thing is to make sure that the bulbs are good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 And the third obvious thing is to replace/clean out your headlight switch, if the bulbs aren't the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 I just wanted to say thanks and that I look forward to looking forward in the near future! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archer973 Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 (edited) Great info. I knew I didn't have power at the fuse box for my headlights. I read your post up to the point that talked about the green wire from the fusible link, walked out to my garage, and found that connector had come loose. Problem fixed so I came back in and joined this forum to say thank you. Edited February 17, 2016 by archer973 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AH0meLEssguy Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 if this thread isn't dead, i need some help in a BAD way from someone who would be ok calling/txting/video chatting with me to sort my issue out.... PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaBigPerm Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 I had the dreaded "high beams don't work" or one would work then not work, then the other, then neither. I didn't install relays, but I did clean the contacts and got 'em working again just fine. My technique: took the switch out and removed the little plastic cover to gain access to the contacts. If you flip the headlight switch around between off, parking lights, and headlights, and then flip the lever between hi/low you can see how the various contacts open and close. I took a strip of sandpaper - medium grit, nothing crazy - folded that strip in half lengthwise so it was a skinny strip that had grit on both sides. For each contact, I'd move the switch until that contact was open, slip the strip in between the open contacts, then move the switch so the contact closed onto the sandpaper strip. I simply dragged the strip out from the contact, adding just a little bit of pressure on the contact with my finger as I pulled the strip out. Did that twice for each contact. Then I took a folded skinny strip of shop towel with some mineral spirits and went through all the contacts again to clean out any residue. Haven't had a problem since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AH0meLEssguy Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 mine gets power all the way to the red and red with white stripe at the switch, but when i turn it to headlights (2nd click) i lose the power to those wires Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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