Darek Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 (edited) There is about 0 F degree (-20 C) outside. The cabin heater is set to 90 F but the air temperature is rather low. The air temperature from the heater increase when I accelerate but it decrease when I slow down or stop on lights. Coolant level is on MAX position. Engine temperature gauge shows that temperature is ok (little below medium position). Engine is 3.5 V6. I tried to bleed cooling system but it did not help. Then I covered radiator with a piece of cardboard but it did not worked too. Any suggestions what should I check next? This is how I tried to bleed the cooling system: I parked the car with front wheels on a curb. I removed the radiator cap, it was still full of coolant. The coolant level in the reservoir tank was about Max line. I set temperature control to 90F with no blow (in manual mode). Then I warmed up the engine and kept 2000 RPM from few minutes. Some coolant leaked out from radiator but it was still almost full. I squeezed hoses and some air bubbles appeared, but only a few. Edited February 6, 2012 by Darek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 You have air trapped in the system or just low on coolant. You need to run the car with the rad cap OFF, preferably on an incline or curb to make the rad neck the highest point, heater set to hot inside, let the engine idle until the thermostat opens which will take a while in that cold of temperature. You will no its open when you see coolant in the rad neck start moving/flowing pretty good. This is when all the bubbles came out for me, I held it at 2000-2500 rpm for atleast a minute. Topped up the coolant After youve done this, Id say put the cap on and go for a short drive, park the car for atleast 4 hours and let the engine COMPLETELY cool (hoses have no pressure AT ALL) then pop the rad cap back off and top it up... Should be golden... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 thermostat maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 sounds to me like the water pump is failing check around the snout for leaks and that should be a tell tale sign if not then the impeller blades may have rusted off inside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 I put the car on a higher incline than previously. Also I set maximum heater temp and power. The car was idling for about 20 minutes with some 2000 RPM. Now it is much warmer inside. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Glad it worked for ya, pop the cap in a day or two and top it off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 You need that heat, I heard it's super cold winter in Poland right now!!! -0F ?? crazy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 cool i think mr510 was also the one that mentioned that cooling systems in these should be purged of air on an incline Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Anyone you talk to that's worked on VGs for a while will tell you to get the front end up in the air. These things are notorious for trapping air, have you seen how crappy the casting is inside the water passages? It's garbage. I was going to get a long bit in there and ream most of the flashing out but got too lazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Anyone you talk to that's worked on VGs for a while will tell you to get the front end up in the air. These things are notorious for trapping air, have you seen how crappy the casting is inside the water passages? It's garbage. I was going to get a long bit in there and ream most of the flashing out but got too lazy. The OP's 2003 has a VQ35DE, but perhaps it's a moot point given the difficulty in relieving the trapped air that the OP encountered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 One more thing, I might add, after letting it run hot to push all the air out fill the overflow tank to above the max line. When it cools it will draw this extra amount into the radiator. You may not even need to top off after cooling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 The OP's 2003 has a VQ35DE, but perhaps it's a moot point given the difficulty in relieving the trapped air that the OP encountered. Dangit, keep thinking some of these things are older than that. They're almost as bad but they cleaned them up a little better than the VGs. Seems that the VG3xEs, VG30DEs, and older VQs have trouble with hot spots towards the rear of the engine that causes detonation faster because of the poor water flow tthrough the block from the water pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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