jwmyers23 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I looked all over the site and can't find anything on this. I was at the garage yesterday getting the old girl inspected. I noticed that when it was up on the lift the drive line was laying on the cross member. Has anybody had this happen and if so how did you fix it? Also I remember seeing on here somewhere about the pan hard bar rubbing the shock. Any ideas on a fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) I looked all over the site and can't find anything on this. I was at the garage yesterday getting the old girl inspected. I noticed that when it was up on the lift the drive line was laying on the cross member. Has anybody had this happen and if so how did you fix it? Also I remember seeing on here somewhere about the pan hard bar rubbing the shock. Any ideas on a fix? SO i can get an idea of what part are your talking about. Is it the rear Drive shaft rubbing the cross member. I have heard of this happening but it would require that you have alot of travel in the rear. I have a 3" in the rear with 26" extended length shock compared to the stock 23" shock and no rear swat bar and even on the lift and full droop extension my drive shaft is not touching. Here is a post that talks about nothcing the cross member so it doesnt touch but he has this issue with 6" of lift in the rear. http://nissannut.com/projects/SAS_3link/ As for the PanHard rod Mine has never rubbed the shock since i have owned it and that with 3" body bilsteins and when i did my 3" lift i used a Calmini panhard drop bracket and no rubbing with it either. Edited January 11, 2012 by wd21overland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Was it lifted by the frame letting the axle droop?? Do you have your rear sway bar and or longer shocks?? It could be this only happens on a lift... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Yep...what b said...they prob lifted by the frame and let the axle sag until the driveshadt hits...id guess no sway bar...longer shocks and a panhard drop will allow this to happen...it will also rip the parking brake cables from their mounts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 B and uncc got my vote as to whats happenin here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 (edited) MY1PATH discussed having issues with his drive shaft running on the crossmember after swapping his axles from left to right to deal with the tight parking brake cables. from what I recall from that thread you could either notch the crossmember, which I would think unwise unless you reinforce it some other way, limiting straps, or put shim in between the tranny and the cross member effectively raising the tranny a small amount to give more clearance at the drive shaft. Here's a link to that conversation. BOOYA. About the panhard rod, if you pick up a panhard rod drop down bracket, that problem and others, solved. A few Links, Conception, Product, Install Hope that helps. Edited January 12, 2012 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 There are also straight-tube driveshafts and swedged-tube driveshafts in WD21s. The swedged-tube shafts are larger diameter and taper down at the ends where they are welded to the yokes. I recently twisted my straight-tube driveshaft in two wheeling and the replacement I had at home is the swedged type. The straight tubed shaft cleared but I think the swedged one just barely rubs. I am running long shocks and have a ton of droop/flex. I'm going to add a single limit strap attached between the center of the diff and the frame to limit droop. This will help in keeping from yanking the shocks apart should the truck become suddenly airborne but will not limit flex. The other easy solution is to add a spacer between the trans and isolator, as was mentioned above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmyers23 Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 Sorry my computer took a crap on me. It was on the lift held up by the frame. I have a 3" lift, 26" long shocks and no sway bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhornet Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 Sorry my computer took a crap on me. It was on the lift held up by the frame. I have a 3" lift, 26" long shocks and no sway bar. the shocks are the culprit... not to worry i have had mine like that for years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 (edited) I looked all over the site and can't find anything on this. I was at the garage yesterday getting the old girl inspected. I noticed that when it was up on the lift the drive line was laying on the cross member. Has anybody had this happen and if so how did you fix it? Also I remember seeing on here somewhere about the pan hard bar rubbing the shock. Any ideas on a fix? I am guilty of both; to solve the drive shaft I put a spacer underneath the transmission pad to raise the shaft above the cross member a little. I have had no ill effects and I think My #6 spark plug is slightly easier to reach lol.On the shock, its actually the axle-side pan-hard bracket when left wheel is stuffed and the right wheel is dropped. Still haven't fixed it but I'm gonna chop the bracket at an angle and weld a low-profile re-enforcement back in ALSO check your brake line and e-brake lines, you do not want to be hanging by those and that does happen when you drop that far. Edited June 30, 2012 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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