1994SEV6 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 (edited) long story short, my dad and I FINALLY got everything hooked up. We go to start it and no go. All the lights work fine, the interior lights, headlights. We tested the battery, it's good. When I go to start it, NOTHING. It doesn't turn over at all. I will go triple check the starter for connectivity, but it's not trying to start. Sometimes ( one out of three times maybe) it will give one quiet click as I take it off the START position. I read somewhere that I needed to jump the Part-Neutral relay? I assume that is the same as the Clutch Inhibit relay? I tried to jump that, but I'm sure I did it wrong. I couldn't find a thread around here for the Park-Neutral Relay or Neutral Safety Switch or Clutch Inhibitor relay (are these the same or three entirely different things?). I looked. Does the clutch need buttons on it? When I got the clutch pedal from the donor, the truck had two buttons. I assumed these were for cruise control? I have the buttons, but I couldn't find connectors. I know all the wiring harnesses are the same, but that plug must be tucked up somewhere real good. Edited December 19, 2011 by 1994SEV6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 I would check at the starter relay to make sure you have power going to it, coming into it when you turn the key to start, and if those 2 are ok, make sure power is coming out of the relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 (edited) I got it!!!!!!!! I had to type in some obscure combination of words and a guy had the same problem as me. A very helpful person told me to solder two wires together. What a lifesaver. I swear I owe him. I suppose a mod should lock this? ok man the plug on the left of the picture where the brown and black wires come out is what you need to splice together. I honestly just intertwined the wires and then wrapped electrical tape around them as I was supposed to hook it all up to the safety switch etc - but never got around to that. Does that help? You dont need to swap out ECUs from auto to manual - if you were going manual to auto then you would. Edited December 19, 2011 by 1994SEV6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 awesome thanks good tip to save for later when i do my a/t to m/t swap!! good job on finishing it man, i just finished my engine swap too! haha good timing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Yea...I had a write up on 4x4parts.com...I jumped it in the cab for the park/neutral inhibit switch. But it looks like u got it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NP670 Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 Any step-by-steps i can follow, would help me greatly, thanks. Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NP670 Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 I got it!!!!!!!! I had to type in some obscure combination of words and a guy had the same problem as me. A very helpful person told me to solder two wires together. What a lifesaver. I swear I owe him. I suppose a mod should lock this? Thanks sooooo much...life saving info... Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 Yeah you just need to bypass the inhibitor relay. You will also have to manually wire the reverse switxh to the reverse light circuit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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