Nefarious Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 (edited) Hey guys i am currently swapping in a 3.3 to my truck but first i need to get the old motor out. what is the best way to take down the front diff??? i have the t-bars out already as im gunna reindex them, i have the 4 bolts out in the front holding the front crossmember up. i have the front diff rear crossmember detached and sitting loose, sway bar is detached from the front crossmember. the rear crossmember drops down a bit but i cant even get the front to budge. should i not be taking out the front crossmember??? i was trying to drop both crossmembers/front diff in one piece so i could leave the cvs hooked up. should i unbolt the 2 front diff mounts that attach to the front crossmember instead, unbolt the cvs and leave the front crossmember alone?? will the diff come out from the rear without removing front crossmember?? please someone who has done this help me, i got the hoist rented and want to return it by tomorrow. thanks!! Edited November 14, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 I have not removed a diff with the front crossmember attached. It's not usually possible because the LCAs prevent the crossmember bolts from being removed. Usually you unbolt the inner CVs and take the bolts out of the two front mounts. Also remove the rearward diff crossmember as it won't fit between the T-bars while attached to the diff. Then lift the engine as far as possible and rotate the rear of the diff down until it will come out. I did mine this way just recently and while it does suck it was easier than pulling the T-bars and LCAs in my case. With the T-bars removed I'm not sure how easy it is to get that front crossmember out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 (edited) ok thanks man ya i have the t-bars off already, i will just try unbolting the 2 front diff mounts and the cvs like you said. i do have those 4 front bolts out that hold in the front crossmemer , i just moved the control arm down a bit and i was able to get both bolts out on each side so the front crossmember should be loose but it wont budge. so yeah maybe ill just try unbolting the diff from the front crossmember mounts and cvs and try sliding it out the rear...the engine is on the hoist and is sitting as high as it will so i have lots of room underneath.. Edited November 14, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Hi yes the diff will come out without removing the cross member. If memory serves after I disconnected both the drive axles, the two rear diff mount bolts and then the bolts that hold the diff brackets onto the cross member I slid it back, and then moved the rear to the side until one side slipped below the t-bars. I am pretty sure the t-bars were the biggest obstacle (along with infamous oil pan). It is a pretty awkward (off centre) weight once it is free, make sure nothing important is under it. I found, a short plank two rolling floor jacks and a semi willing helper were a huge help during the install. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 There is a procedure in the FSM for removing the oil pan... most of it is removing the front diff. Beginning of the EM section in my 91 manual. Might help. I have personally done it without removing either the t-bars or cross member. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 Perfect thanks for all the info guys. I just found the factory service manual online and downloaded the pdf file so I got that now. Thanks for the oil pan reference. I have the t-bars out already as I need to reindex them for my 3" lift coming soon, figured now is the time while im under there. We'll see how it goes tomorrow! I'll get some pics of my pathy up soon it's got a few custom things done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Make sure to put those cross member bolts in with the bolt head towards the front of the truck. That way you won't have to pull the t-bars to drop the diff if you ever need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 that sir is a fantastic idea lol... got the diff out today and the motor out as well! mucho successo. It was fun as I have a gravel driveway which i was doing this in so moving an engine hoist is pretty damn hard once the weight is on it. I had my 240 with a tie strap to the tow hook and the base of the hoist. hahahaha. Worked great though and just slipped right out!! trying to track down a used xterra oil pickup tube now then im ready to drop in the 3.3. I snapped some pics which ill post in my vg33e swap thread. once i figure out where to host the pics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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