Mr.510 Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 I just bought a new o-ring from the dealer recently, so they still sell them. I asked specifically about a gasket but they had no idea. Another good reason to have an oil pressure gauge... Ah, I didn't realize the OP is in Canada or that Nissan pulled BS like that on you guys. The O-ring is still available in the US but the pickup tubes that use an O-ring are not. The gasket for the later style pickup tubes is Nissan P/N 15053-1E400. Unfortunately an oil pressure gauge won't really help if the pickup tube O-ring leaks. What typically happens is a little bit of air is continually sucked past the failed O-ring and the air bubbles erode the very soft bearing material until failure occurs. otherwise i guess i will be going to the junkyard to get an xterra pump/alternator *sigh*. the pathy alternator isnt the same just flipped around is it ?? also the frontier is the same as the xterra with accessory layout, yes??? If you're asking about the WD21 alternator it's mounting is the same 'old school' layout that physically interchanges with most Nissan models all the way back to 1968. The Xterra alternator has different mounts and does not directly interchange. I do not know if caR50 and X are the same. The X alty has the adjuster mounting piont offset further forward and also closer to the block than the earlier stuff. Accessory layout is the same between X and Fronty, or at least it is on the S/C models. oh also does anyone know if i will need the xterra/frontier block/accessory brackets as welll... im assuming they are different... Probably. If in doubt take what you have with you and/or take lots of pics before you go to the yard. You might also do a quick measure of how far out the accessory belt grooves are from the lower timing belt tin to be sure what you get is going to line up. Swapping accessories/brackets/balancers around between VGs and having the belts line up correctly is often a problem. Don't quote me, but I *think* there are eight different VG33 harmonic balancer/pulley part numbers in the US market. I had my brother order one of each when I was trying to find an elegant solution to the VG33 with VG30 accessories problem while retaining a harmonic balancer. There was no way to modify stock parts to make it work so I designed the adapter hub that replaces the balancer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 okay excellent information, thanks a lot for the heads up! yeah the layout of the accessories in the x looks *similar* to the layout in my vg30e pathy(original). as in the power steering is on the same side, and the alternator is on the same side. In the r50 the alternator and power steering swap sides so the power steering ends up by the steering box (but very close) and the alternator is by the battery. There was one guy who posted in here said he dropped in the whole xterra vg33e including the accessories. now i just need to take some measurements like you said and just make sure things are going to line up for the belts... i think i found a wrecker with the parts so ill take your advice maybe even and just bring the accessories and brackets from my r50 and compare them to check belt distances, seems like the easiest route, well hopefully i work around this issue this weekend! everything else is almost done i want this thing running!!! haha for future reference, how much will you be selling your crank adapter for? hahaha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Ah, I didn't realize the OP is in Canada or that Nissan pulled BS like that on you guys. The O-ring is still available in the US but the pickup tubes that use an O-ring are not. The gasket for the later style pickup tubes is Nissan P/N 15053-1E400. Unfortunately an oil pressure gauge won't really help if the pickup tube O-ring leaks. What typically happens is a little bit of air is continually sucked past the failed O-ring and the air bubbles erode the very soft bearing material until failure occurs. Yeah, good point. I had a similar style of "slow air leak" in my oil pump recently. I thought it was the o-ring, so I took off the oil pan to replace it. But the previous o-ring was fine... The symptom was good oil pressure at high rpm but basically zero oil pressure at idle... at high rpm enough oil was flowing to mostly "seal" the leak, but at low rpm all you got was air. Eventually found the problem by blowing into the oil pump from below and noticing a lot of air coming out. Turns out the cover plate was worn enough to allow air past... there is no seal there, just tight tolerance... and this is not in the FSM inspection procedure unfortunately. I think some of my lifters are still full of air bubbles actually. Anyway, this is kinda off topic I guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 26, 2011 Author Share Posted November 26, 2011 sooooo I think I may be able to make the power steering work after all but the air con pump will have to be removed for sure as the body of it hits the steering box lines. i may be able to adapt my old a/c pump to work later on with custom bracketry and a pulley change. this is a winter truck as it stands now so im not too concerned with removing it for now but may want to add it again later... can mr. 510 chime in on the crank pulley adapter?? when are these going to be in production? usps shipping to canada? final cost?? I may be interested in it after all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 (edited) I replied to the OP's PM but for anyone else reading this my goal is to sell the crank pulley adapter hubs for less than $100. Only one has been made so far, the prototype that's on the VG34 in my Pathy. I should have production parts in stock by the end of the year. Edited November 27, 2011 by Mr.510 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 (edited) awesome. this will be good news for the vg33 guys. will be by far the easiest method of the swap... so there was a bit of decent weather today so I worked on my p/s pump issue a little more. there is NO WAY that it will work with oem r50+wd21 brackets without cutting and welding. i am utilizing the r50 front mount oil filter and i would like to keep it if possible, if this was blocked and a filter relocated there would be more room but I should still have enough with this setup. I decided to just make custom brackets for the power steering to mount it much closer to the engine, change the angle of the in/out lines so they line up properly and make clearance for the power steering to fit beside the steering box. I utilized the old adjustment bracket off my vg30 p/s pump, which is MUCH shorter.. I was looking at how i could cobble something together to work as i had a lot more room once the a/c and a/c bracket were gone. I rotated the front p/s pump bracket(the one under the pulley) so 2 of the 3 bolt holes lined up and the angle ended up being perfect for the lines now. I cut off a piece that was hanging off for the old ps line routing, which was in my way and allowed much more clearance. Then I had to make the p/s rear bracket fit so the swivel bolt would line up. Again just placed it where i needed it, which happened to cover 2 threaded bolt holes in the back side of the p/s pump. Drilled the new holes and bolted it together. To get the shorter adjuster to work I cut another piece of steel of similar thickness to attach to the block end so I could control the angle of the adjuster as well as making the bracket slightly longer and also have control over offset for the pulleys to line up. Tomorrow is supposed to be nice again so hopefully I will have time to get the upper swivel mount finished up and I'll get some pictures to show everyone the process. The only trick will be finding a much shorter belt that will fit ! As it stands now everything is working out and I will have about 2 1/2 inches of adjustment to get the belt tight which should be plenty Edited November 28, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 (edited) heres a few pics of what i have done so far... tension/adjuster bracket is finished just need to make up a pivot bracket for the top. Edited November 28, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 (edited) Still need to trim some off the rear pump bracket. I realise the curved slot is going the wrong way on the tensioner but it would have been a bunch more work to attach the adjuster to the other end and move the bolt stopper to the other end and this just means I have to loosen the block end of the tensioner slightly when tensioning.. If it ever bugs me enough I'll flip it around.. Both adjusters have the same 6mm offset(from mount to mount linearly)by stacking the 2 plates up on top of the adjuster, I love when things just work out. Edited November 28, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 sooo got some more time to screw around and finished the power steering pump, this thing is as low profile as it can possibly get haha, when its compressed it sits against the oil filter flange but it tightens the belt and it fits!! the belt is 3 inches shorter. everything lines up and i made a custom bracket to hold the pivot as well as a adjuster bracket, used some steel i had laying around and the old adjuster from the vg30 and a bunch of cutting and pasting. ill get some pics tomorrow when it's light out. i also ended up flipping the metal and welding everything on the other ends on the tensioner so the curved slot was going the right way. now i just need to get these things sand blasted and powder coated! nice to have everything in there and fitting and i realised now my truck will have an extra 20 amps from the alternator and a stronger steering pump since ill be using the r50 accessories. also have easy oil filter access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 (edited) got a couple shots of the fitment now. I ended up taking off the a/c idler and that whole bracket now, it's still on in the pic. i figured im not running a/c right now, ill just leave it clean . im going to just make my own bracket and mount it up higher now since i have a body lift i have tons of room to do whatever later down the road. can see how tight the pump fits against the motor when its loose. you can see the super short adjuster underneath. short bar with a long groove for adjustment. Edited November 30, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 finished mocking the brackets up today. found a belt that fits perfect, it's 3" shorter than stock. I'll get some more pics of the brackets after i finish welding them up. this is how it looks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Whoa, that pulley is going to be straightened out when it's all said and done right? Looks like it's a bit off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 (edited) oh yeah its just the camera angle i dont know why it looks like that. i noticed it after i took the pic and checked again, it is straight lol. there is adjustment in it too to change depth and angle. i didnt want any belt bind! Edited November 30, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Looks like this swap is giving you headache after headache (I know exactly how that is..believe me). I'm just curious how you feel about it right now? I'm also trying to do a serious project on my truck, and it is extremely slow-going. At this point, do you feel like it was worth it? I know everything is different when all is said and done, and you're driving your truck with a little more oomph in the throttle. I mean right now, do you feel like giving up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 (edited) hell no i don't feel like giving up! i have the permanent mentality of *it's almost done*. although yes there have definitely been some headaches! lol.... No seriously though i am really excited to get this thing going. compared to the work i just did on my 300zx this is really not too bad! I really love doing projects like this the only bummer is the cold weather i am trying to rush through!!lol what are you doing to your truck right now ?? if it's a big project i assume engine swap or solid axle swap?? I finished the power steering pump mounts today they are perfect. everything lines up 100% and the tensioner has tons of room for to adjust as the belt stretches. Got some shots of final clearance. Went to put in the alternator and it wouldnt quite fit!!!! lol but it was minor i just ground a tiny bit off the back of the case in key spots and it fits now. the motor is dropped down in place now and mated to the transmission again. all I have left to fabricate now is a y pipe to connect my new OBX headers to my current side exit exhaust, should only take a couple hours. then it's just bolting the rest of it back together and she should be good to go. im hoping to have it all finished this weekend! heres some more pics of final clearance. and now i have so much room to add more things like on board air in the future heres what the pivot bracket looks like, i made sure to hit 3 bolts in a triangular shape so its super strong. still need to trim off the corners. there's just a tiny bit less clearance than that as the engine was angled a bit there but that's the belt tight there is plenty of clearance now. I could sure get some short custom lines made now ! haha alternator was tight! bit of shaving and it made its way in. Edited December 1, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 (edited) here's the build thread of my previous project for anyone interested. fixing a crashed 1990 300ZX slicktop. http://forums.nicoclub.com/1990-300zx-slicktop-crash-restoration-build-thread-t546271.html Edited December 1, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Lol hey you're doing it wrong! VG30DE goes in Pathfinder and VG33 with big ass turbo goes in Z car... That'd be one hell of a project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 here's the build thread of my previous project for anyone interested. fixing a crashed 1990 300ZX slicktop. http://forums.nicoclub.com/1990-300zx-slicktop-crash-restoration-build-thread-t546271.html VERY nice work with the 300zx. You really have a talent for this type of stuff. Nice score with the black oem bumper. I love Z cars, and a lot of Nissans actually, but I think the Z32s are a little, just a tiny bit, too plastic-y. For my beloved project, I'm doing an auto to manual swap in my hardbody. There have been a lot of headaches, but It's more of a problem with pushing through it and the weather of course. It's getting pretty chilly around here. I hope there are still a few nice days left Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 finished mocking the brackets up today. found a belt that fits perfect, it's 3" shorter than stock. I'll get some more pics of the brackets after i finish welding them up. this is how it looks. Whoa, that pulley is going to be straightened out when it's all said and done right? Looks like it's a bit off. oh yeah its just the camera angle i dont know why it looks like that. i noticed it after i took the pic and checked again, it is straight lol. there is adjustment in it too to change depth and angle. i didnt want any belt bind! It looks perfectly straight to me from the photo. It's just the distortion from the lens. Looks like it was shot with the widest angle possible that the camera could do. Are you doing a hybrid of v-belt and serpentine belt? That looks very interesting. Maybe you already know but serpentine belts need more tension than v-belts do because of their multiple grooves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 Lol hey you're doing it wrong! VG30DE goes in Pathfinder and VG33 with big ass turbo goes in Z car... That'd be one hell of a project. I was seriously considering building a VG33 and boring the hell out of it see how thick those walls really are and make a turbo motor for my 300zx VG37E-T or maybe VG38. I wonder how big you could go ? lol. Single cam would fit in that engine bay so much easier and i believe it to be the more stout engine although the VG30DE(tt) is a beefy motor too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 (edited) It looks perfectly straight to me from the photo. It's just the distortion from the lens. Looks like it was shot with the widest angle possible that the camera could do. Are you doing a hybrid of v-belt and serpentine belt? That looks very interesting. Maybe you already know but serpentine belts need more tension than v-belts do because of their multiple grooves. Well the power steering is on it's own belt, the alternator and water pump is on one belt serpentine. The a/c as of now is removed but my plan is to add back the factory a/c as well as adding a second pump to run on board air for the future so the 2 a/c pumps would be on a serpentine on the top of the motor, the outermost grooves on the crank pulley are free to run a serpentine up to the top ad i still have the old tensioner pulleys to make it work. there is just loads of space in my engine bay now. egr is gone, clutch fan is gone. should be enough room for 2 pumps up top now Edited December 1, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 VERY nice work with the 300zx. You really have a talent for this type of stuff. Nice score with the black oem bumper. I love Z cars, and a lot of Nissans actually, but I think the Z32s are a little, just a tiny bit, too plastic-y. For my beloved project, I'm doing an auto to manual swap in my hardbody. There have been a lot of headaches, but It's more of a problem with pushing through it and the weather of course. It's getting pretty chilly around here. I hope there are still a few nice days left Thanks man. Yeah I love nissan sports cars a LOT lol. The 90's ones in particular but also the older ones as well. I've got a z32 and s13 myself and within my family members there is also a z31 turbo and a z32 twin turbo lol. Ahhh auto to manual swap hey. Yeah as soon as my auto ever packs it in that will be my next move. I have pulled a transmission before from a pathfinder wd21 and r50 actually, neither was very fun... surprisingly heavy transmission/transfer case combo huh?? haha. I actually welded up a transmission jack adapter I made to convert my scissor jack to a trans jack and put some casters o the bottom so I could wheel it out from under, and also get it back in! lol. Can probably buy one but i just like making things lol. Yeah I hear ya on the weather man! I just really want to beat the snow, as long as i beat the snow im happy! lol 240sx and 300zx are not the best cars in the snow although they will do with weight in the back and snow tires lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 I was seriously considering building a VG33 and boring the hell out of it see how thick those walls really are and make a turbo motor for my 300zx VG37E-T or maybe VG38. I wonder how big you could go ? lol. Single cam would fit in that engine bay so much easier and i believe it to be the more stout engine although the VG30DE(tt) is a beefy motor too. Last time I remember reading up on this, a guy made it to a 3.8L? before the block cracked. More and more people swap the SOHC engines into their Z32s for space, less maintenance items, and reliability. That's definitely what I'd do if somehow I spent the money to buy a Z32. I had an '87 Z31T and prefer it over a newer one.The DEs also have half as many head bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 (edited) yeah the single slammer is nutty with what is it like 13 head bolts?! haha. tough as nails man. yeah easier and less maintenance and WAY easier to work on... i would definitely put a boosted single cam in there, if im not mistaken shouldnt the transmission just bolt right up? i thought the block shape was similar i wonder if the single cam does just bolt up the dual cam trans. hm more research is in order! i was planning on sticking with my 240sx fastback but my neighbour had this car for a while just sitting there after he smashed it lol. i got it for 1200 bucks with a new maf, new oem jdm clear turn signals, alpine head unit and speakers, 6k i receipts from the same shop to show all the stupid little things have been done. i couldnt turn it down ! lol. and after having my hands on her so much fixing her up i fell i love! haha Edited December 1, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Fyi to tungsten, in an r50 the a/c and alt belts are 2 serpentine an the ps is a v belt. Its factory that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now