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BEST HEADERS FOR A PATHY


Slick
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WHAT HEADERS DO YOU THINK ARE BEST?  

35 members have voted

  1. 1. WHAT HEADERS DO YOU THINK ARE BEST?

    • 1) Thorley
      27
    • 2) Pacesetter
      5
    • 3) Other
      0


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OK. I have experienced enough turmoil in my decision for headers, so I will ask the NPORA members what they think. Any pricing/purchase locations/ tried n tested results would be great! for my 92 Pathy 4 door 4 wd. I will be purchasing after market manifolds too -alcohol-

p.s- I am in the great smogable state of California!!!! bear that in mind!

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I have a set of chrome Thorleys on my '87 V6 5-sp. They look good, sound great and let the exhaust flow out like a fat man on chili night. I had a shop install them, so I couldn't expand on the dificulty. I think they are CARB legal, though.

Since there's not as high a demand on them as say, for a Chevy 350, Thorley doesn't make a lot of 'em at a time, so call Thorley directly for availability. Some folks have waited two or three months for theirs. Thorley says they are for manual trans only, but a few discussions here have said that a competent shop could adapt them for use in an auto without much work.

Thorley headers - Nissan

Also, you don't need to buy manifolds as well as headers. Headers bolt directly to the engine block and actually replace the existing restrictive manifolds allowing the exhaust gasses to flow better giving you more power and torque.

They are pricey, but you get what you pay for.

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Oh cool. Yeah..I emailed Thorley... $629!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :X I must say..he emailed me back QUICK! but I know I can get them cheaper... I think I read where Maritime man got them for $450 @ Summit.

SO.....no need fer the manifolds if I get the headers..I like the thought of saving the extra $250! thanks!! Any advice on what type of bolts to get? grade..size..type of metal..etc... This will be my first real "non- Jeep or Chevy" tear down..so ALL advice is GREATLY appreciated..I am venturing into the unknown :hide: ..LOL

:bow:

OH..BTW....my Pathy is 5 speed MANUAL.....just in case anyone else is curious...THANKS GUYS!

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Ok, intall itself was fairly simple, but bear in mind, I had to pull the motor to get to a broken stud. Thorley's are a bit expensive (more than the Pace's any how) but with this type of install, I'd say its worth it just going off of past experiences. IF you don't have any studs busted, a shop worth its salt would be a reasonable way to go if you don't have the time and tools to do it, as you do have to weld the Y pipe together. This also might be kind of tricky as you would be doing it under you vehicle, as I did this phase while my motor was out. Even so, bolt them up snug, tach weld em, then unbolt then, and finish the weld. A bit time consuming to bolt and unbolt, but the job you can do is much better and easier. I'm not sure if the Thorley's bolt up to stock exhaust, as I replaced it all with 2.25 piping and high flow cat w/ flowmaster. Hope this info help, lemme know if you have any other questions, I put a link to Summit's Thorley's in the 90-95 section, and they took just under two weeks to get them. If you do go summit's route, tell them you wanted them shipped directly to you from Thorley, should save a couple of days.

 

M.M.

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The Thorleys bolt up to the stock flange right before the catalytic converter. I also replaced the entire exhaust with a 2.25" high flow cat and Flowmaster 50 series muffler. The piping from the stock flange to the cat is 2.25" dia., so I just cut it to length and welded the new cat to it. I used adapters and clamps back to the muffler and a reducer to fit a new stock size (2") tail pipe. One day I'll fab up a new 2.25" tailpipe and maybe weld everything in.

If you're going to do the work yourself, be sure to wear eye protection when you're under the truck messing around with rusty exhaust. We've all had crap fall into our eyes at one time or another, but a friend of mine got a little sliver of metal actually stuck in the white part of his eye. After a few days the metal in his eyeball started to rust and he ended up going to the hospital to get the affected part of his eye scooped out. He healed up and made a full recovery, but just thinking about it makes my spine itch.

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Thanks for the great advice guys! I really appreciate it! Yes...I do have broken bolts.... but I will be taking the motor out, as I also plan (besides the headers) to put 2 new cams in, water pump, O2 sensor, plug wires, Warn manual locking hubs, timing belt, oil pump, new clutch (complete kit), cat back system..speaking of..the type of sound I want to achieve would be as close to a low V-8 rumble as I can..I DO NOT want to sound like a ricer..lol. From the cat back will be flowmaster..I just don't know which one would sound best.... i had the delta 3 (cat..dunno what muffler..but it was a Flowmaster) on my S-10..sounded wicked good....

Aneeeehew.... my boyfriends brother is a good welder, we have 2 types of welder here, so he could do that for me... OMG..I am soooooo skeered! I have never really delved into a fuel injected motor (my S-10 never broke!)..... any "easy removal" tips? We will be videoing the removal..LMAO...so we know where everything goes back! LOL -bounce-

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Want a motor pull tip? Get at least 3 of those magnetic parts trays, one of the big ones, 2 small, and an electrical numbering kit available at Home Depot in the electrical section. Use the latter to label EVERY hose, harness, wire, etc that you will be pulling off. Trust me, I have pulled my motor twice, and it saves alot of headache trying to figure out what goes where. Good luck, hope you know some good swear words :furious: cause you are gonna run into SNAFU's, just keep at it, you'll be happy when you are done.

 

M.M.

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:bow: oh thank you guys thank you..keep the good advice coming! Yes maritime man...I have a great selection of "french" sssh so there will be no lack of good cuss words flying around...hehehe..thanks for the advice on the parts tray..I was going to take every bolt and put them in baggies and label them as to where they go, and we are going to video the entire operation, so we can look back to know how everything goes back..man! there's a LOT of stuff under there... :(

 

Any ideas on the best plug wires? Yeah..I was looking at the Flowmaster 40 series..I think they're what I will be going with. God I hate smog!!! :X :oops:

Keep the rgeat ideas coming! I could do with it! -bounce-

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:clap: there will be plenty of Jack Daniels on hand..cuz my boyfriend will get pissed off first..he's strictly Chevy 454 and 350 carbed motors...hehehe... maybe I'll have his brother video US! LOL :X :oops: -alcohol-
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  • 3 weeks later...

Just finished bolting up the Thorleys last night, getting the slip joint welded up tomorrow ($30). Difficulty depends on mechanical skill. Drilling out broken studs, threading nut-lockwasher-washer sets with two stretched fingers, ain't always easy. I did it all myself, but it would have taken half the time with help (counterholding wrenches, guiding the blind hand into tight spots, etc...)

 

Everything fit as described, not sure why the instructions called for tools like a sawzall (all you need to open a beer is a pair of pliers)...

-al

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Everything fit as described, not sure why the instructions called for tools like a sawzall (all you need to open a beer is a pair of pliers)...

-al

I expect that you'll have more to post on these. I'm hoping to have some sort of headers in the months to follow after the holidays, and wouldn't mind a bit of commentary Hank Hill style. -alcohol-

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i found some thorely headers for Nissan Pathfinder V-6 for $350 anyone interested? why pay $629 when you can pay $350 for the same thing. check it out. go to rockyroad.com, they have em. click on the link and scroll down to Nissan & datsun headers. here's the link.

 

click here for thorley headers

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I am getting the Thorleys from Summit racing..nickle plated with Y- pipe for $329..bad news..order today..ship JANUARY 20th!!!!!!!!! :oops: ..but....that'll give me time to find the cams and other goodies. Anyone know where I can get slightly larger than stock cams for a good price (but good quality)??? Does anyone have aftermarket cams (larger cams) and how do they work for yah? Keep the great advice/notes/info coming guys! I am starting to panic as time gets near to pull the motor..I'm not much one for making mistakes..and I can't afford to....OHHHHHHH..ok..has ANYONE installed the Thorley's with a lift? I am waiting for Thorley to call me back as in the Summit description..it says "for no lift" :contract: damnit....so I need to know (I also want to install a 2" body or suspension lift)..whether they COULD be installed with a minimum amount of fab work..... sssh

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I have a 3 inch suspension lift and am having them put on this week. I'll let you know if my mechanic has any issues. The guy at Thorley told me that the Y-Pipe would have to be modified but my mechanic had said before he started that he doens't think anything needs to be done since the suspension lift jacked the whole truck up.

 

I'll let you know.

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Oh great! Thank you..yes..please post here how it went..what mods...fabbing...he has to do with them. I WANT a 2" suspension lift..but want to make 100% sure I can do it with the Thorleys..... :beer:

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Don't quote me on this, but my thoughts are as follows. A suspension lift shouldn't affect your exhaust in any way since the body and frame aren't moving, just the suspension. With the body lift, I think you're still fine if the exhaust on the Pathy is mounted to the frame rather than the body. Mind you, I haven't paid particular attention yet to how the exhaust is mounted, but if its to the frame (as is the motor obviously) then there shouldn't be a problem since they stay in the same alignment to each other. Somebody please jump in and elaborate.

 

Just checked and yes, the exhaust mounts to the frame.

Edited by Mr. Pickles
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  • 2 weeks later...
:blink: OK. So now I know.... Flowmaster....Magnaflow do NOT make cat back systems for Pathy's. :angry: They only make mufflers..which is fine..if you don't have to smog your beast like I do. Just an FYI
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