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ahardb0dy

starter question,UPDATE WITH PICS !

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Thanks, I read the write up. That starter will be going back in from the top if I have to pull the inner fender out a 1/2 inch to get it back in !! I'm going to run a new 4 gauge from the battery to the solenoid, stopped at the local stereo store yesterday after work, rushed all the way to make it there before they closed and when we got there found out they moved !! I was pissed!!

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For 4WD WD 21 and D21 unhook the draglink on the passenger side, unbolt the starter, rotate the starter 90 degrees to the right and pull it forward and down, it comes right out easy.....

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Drag link? You mean the idler arm? Was thinking of doing that when I was trying to get it out the first time, thanks

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Well nothing done today rained all day, still is, supposed to rain all day tomorrow too, sucks, picked up some 4 gauge power wire and a few terminal ends, had to re-paint the center section of the starter as all the black paint came off when I cleaned it, looks good still working fine on my work bench hopefully will still work when re-installed.

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SUCCESS !!! PF LIVES !!!

 

Rain let up today so I went out and got started, I was able to get the starter back in it's location from the top, I pulled the inner fender out slightly, just had to put it in rear first than once under the exhaust manifold flipped it around. Hardest part was getting the 2 starter bolts in. Didn't have anyone to assist and holding the starter in place while trying to get a bolt started was kind of frustrating. Had to take a few seconds just to relax (two times !! LOL), finally was able to get the lower bolt started than the top bolt went right in. I than removed the lower bolt because I ran a 4 gauge ground from the lower bolt to the tranny cross member. I wanted to add the ground just in case the stock ground was a problem.

 

I also removed the stock positive cable from the battery terminal to the starter, the wire loom was all brittle so I removed it and replaced it with new.

 

Found this when removing the positive cable, may have been part of the reason the starter was acting up, 1/2 of the wire isn't even in the terminal and the terminal seems loose on the rest of the wire, sorry about the quality of the pics:

 

5k4k1k.jpg

 

2pp08lu.jpg

 

I replaced the positive battery terminal with this Streetwires terminal I had ordered for my car, the part of the stock terminal where the 2 plugs connect to it was broken so I had the broken piece sandwiched between the part of the stock terminal where it tightened around the battery post. I cut the plugs off the 5 wires and twisted all the wires together and used a large blue butt connector between the 5 wires and a piece of 8 gauge wire I had than the other end I used a Streetwires terminal which goes onto the new battery terminal, I covered the butt connector in heat shrink:

 

11vsays.jpg

 

 

This is the new positive battery terminal with the wire I just spoke of:

 

5o4k0.jpg

 

 

I ran the new 4 gauge power cable (car audio cable), to the solenoid and this is how it now looks on the battery end, I put wire loom over this cable to, ran out of tie wraps so have to pick some up tomorrow just to make sure the wire stays out of the way of everything:

 

2i7333p.jpg

 

large wire on right is 4 gauge going to solenoid, smaller wire on the left is going to the stock wires that were on the battery, large blue wire goes to Amp and is known as "cheap 4 gauge" as it is the diameter of 4 gauge outside but the actual wire is only 8 gauge, it was a cheap kit so I bought it: small red wire coming out the back of the battery terminal goes to the relay for the starter mod. Terminal came with the clear plastic cover.

 

another view:

 

2419kps.jpg

 

Alternator is definitely working:

 

15d5u2t.jpg

 

Here is a video I took showing how the starter sounds now when cranking, disregard the video I just used video to record the sound:

 

 

forgot, the rubber boot that covered the stud that the starter motor wire goes to ripped so I wrapped the stud and wire with that stretchable tape that looks like electrical tape. Now I need to get the negative battery terminal so they match!!

Edited by ahardb0dy

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Nice, sounds like mine does lol.

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Thanks, I guess they should all sound about the same

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Looks nice. I need to do something like this. Did those barrel connectors come with the terminal clamp?

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No, we have a surplus electronics store nearby (Orlando) and I happened to find them there a while back. Last Friday when I picked up the 4 gauge wire they had some 8 gauge terminals like these below that I picked up 4 red and 4 black for $1 each, crutchfield sells similar ones for $30 a pair!!

 

2yoe2o2.jpg

 

going to order a negative terminal to match from Partsexpress today, they have them for about the best price.

Edited by ahardb0dy

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Just ordered the negative terminal from Parts express, I had a $7 credit so order came out to $17, now the 2 terminals will match and hopefully no problems down the road with bad terminals.

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Well after pulling the starter and cleaning it, reinstalling it, replacing the main cable, both battery terminals and the starter working fine since Oct 9th, last Tuesday I drove the PF to work to start standby, I noticed it cranked a little slow but it started fine, Standby ended Monday morning and I am off Monday so today I took my work truck back and would be driving my PF home after work so I went and made sure the truck would start before work, it again cranked slow but started, I shut it off and tried again and it started. After work pf started again cranking slow. Stopped on the way home for gas and it started cranking slow still. Left the gas station and stopped at supermarket, was in the store 10 minutes when I got back to the PF went to start it and got NOTHING, no click, nothing. A lady that works in the supermarket was walking by and I asked if she could help me, I had her hold the key to crank as I lightly tapped the starter, it started right up. So It may be new starter time but I want to try this which I found before, check out the link below.

 

 

Another question, do the automatic trans PF's have both an inhibitor and starter relay? If so where is the starter relay as I do not see it in the FSM electrical section?

 

link:

 

http://info.rockauto.com/BeckArnley/BA-TBS0113.pdf

Edited by ahardb0dy

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Well, I don't have any help to offer but that is good information to keep in mind when having starter issues...

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For 4WD WD 21 and D21 unhook the draglink on the passenger side, unbolt the starter, rotate the starter 90 degrees to the right and pull it forward and down, it comes right out easy.....

 

He meant idler arm, that's the only way to do it, I changed the 94s starter yesterday and I spent longer calling around to see if I could find one with the heat shield, or the threaded holes in the case to mount the heat shield then I did pulling and replacing the starter.

I had a friend with a 90 pathy call me for help pulling his starter he was trying to lift it up by the frame rail and fuel filter, he'd been screwing with it for about an hour when he called I went over dropped the idler arm and slid it out the front and showed him how much easier it would be connecting the wires up doing it that way :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

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He meant idler arm, that's the only way to do it, I changed the 94s starter yesterday and I spent longer calling around to see if I could find one with the heat shield, or the threaded holes in the case to mount the heat shield then I did pulling and replacing the starter.

I had a friend with a 90 pathy call me for help pulling his starter he was trying to lift it up by the frame rail and fuel filter, he'd been screwing with it for about an hour when he called I went over dropped the idler arm and slid it out the front and showed him how much easier it would be connecting the wires up doing it that way :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

 

 

Yes, the idler arm! Thats what I meant.

Makes it SO much easier.

 

 

Too many car parts on the brain....... :lmao:

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Something else that will help, I've ground down a 14mm 3/8s socket so just the head of the bolt fits in it really helps on the top bolt, that way I don't have to pry anything out of the way to get the socket on the bolt head I also leave a 12 inch extension on the socket and use it to restart the bolt on the new starter.

With a new starter on hand it can be replaced in less then a 1/2 hour total time

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I had no problems getting a socket on the bolts or getting the bolts out, Now that I pulled the inner fender out about 1/2" the starter goes right in from the top. The hardest part for me was holding the starter in place while trying to get the top bolt started, I ended up getting the lower bolt started than the top one went right in.

 

Tonight I checked the relay I installed (starter mod) and it is working when turning the key to start, I can feel and hear the relay. I also took the wire going to the starter solenoid off the relay and touched it directly to the positive terminal and still got nothing, only after tapping the solenoid lightly while holding the key to start did the engine turn over. I guess the solenoid could be bad but pulling the starter out just to replace the solenoid might as well replace the whole starter.

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If while running I show 14.3-14.4 volts can I assume the alternator is properly charging the battery?

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If while running I show 14.3-14.4 volts can I assume the alternator is properly charging the battery?

Yes

Edit: reverse is right. If the battery is depleted and too low, it might now be able to fully charge again.

 

Sent from my Pathfinder

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Not always. You can have good voltage but if the amps aren't there, the battery won't charge. Most auto parts stores will do a free charging system test for you. I have in the past had a diode fail in the alternator and that caused excessive ripple that shortened the life of the battery. They don't seem to like AC current. 

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