maddoc Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 (edited) Hood is primed, started working on passengers door. glad to have it out of the garage so my jeep can go back in. Looking at what gear to put in it this weekend, i'm thinking winch up front with a j-hook bridal to pull cars out. Edited October 1, 2011 by maddoc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 Adding a few more symptoms to the Brake, A/T oil temp, and Fuel indicator light issue; Lights come on during the following; any time the transmission is in park when in drive, if i idle for a few minutes the lights go off, as soon as i hit the gas the lights come on and off if im at idle or touch the gas pedal. holding part throttle for a minute the lights go off then come on at WOT, i can also hear the WOT sensor click and the lights come on. this is more of a note for my self for future reference when i find out what is causing the lights, Parts i have changed since owning the car fuel tank fuel pump plugs and wires air filter alternator battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 (edited) Fan control only working on certain speeds is the blower resistor which is mounted in the duct behind the glove box, good idea to remove it and vacuum out what ever may be in there. As for the vin # starting with JN8 I believe all pathfinders were made in Japan, send me the Vin # in a PM and I'll look it up if you would like. Edited October 3, 2011 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 Fan control only working on certain speeds is the blower resistor which is mounted in the duct behind the glove box, good idea to remove it and vacuum out what ever may be in there. As for the vin # starting with JN8 I believe all pathfinders were made in Japan, send me the Vin # in a PM and I'll look it up if you would like. Dug into the wiring today, the ducting was clean, and as for the resistor the connector is not receiving any power on setting 4. I also have continuity between the connecter at the blower motor and the resistor for the setting 4 wire which is correct according to FSM. its just not receiving any power, right now i think the problem lies more at the switch or the relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 (edited) removed my neutral inhibitor switch today, diagnosed that it was bad and that i couldnt repair it. Looked in the FSM for how it operates, which is just continuity between the wires so i hacked off the switch and wired all the connectors together for a temporary fix till a new one comes in. Which fixed all of my intermitant lights and wiring problems. Here is how it works when in park the switch connects wires 2 and 5 sending continuity up the line telling the computer that the transmission is in park. when the switch starts to go bad it no longer reads park which the computer still thinks that you are in drive not enabling the starter in park. In my case it also randomly lit the fuel, AT oil temp, and parking brake lights at different times, also would not allow cruise control to come on and a few other interesting things that i cannot explain. Since i connected all the wires at once when the computer sends a signal down wires 2 and 5 it recives continuity, along with all the other gears. PS for anybody wanting to repair/replace one of these they are on the right side of the transmission and the connector is wedged up between the tranny and firewall there is barely enough room to fit a arm in there to disconnect it/reconnect it. Next i need to reassemble my center console and dash, figure out why my spedo reads randomly what it wants to and replace a lot of light bulbs. pics to come Edited October 6, 2011 by maddoc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Haven't done any work to the pathfinder in a while, its been my DD since pulling the axles out from under my jeep. I need to figure out the speedo. It sits at 25mph when stopped and while driving up till about 45-50mph then it starts reading normal and works proper all the way out to 70 then as i slow it sticks again about 30 and stays there all the way to stop and when driving at city speeds. any ideas? i think its the speed sensor or the speedometer unit itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 I would have to look at the FSM, can't check it right now but think the 87 has a speedometer cable, someone will correct me if I am wrong, possibly cable is bad?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 (edited) Haven't done any work to the pathfinder in a while, its been my DD since pulling the axles out from under my jeep. I need to figure out the speedo. It sits at 25mph when stopped and while driving up till about 45-50mph then it starts reading normal and works proper all the way out to 70 then as i slow it sticks again about 30 and stays there all the way to stop and when driving at city speeds. any ideas? i think its the speed sensor or the speedometer unit itself. Older Nissans and Datsuns (probably all older cars) are very prone to melted/warped speedo needles. A truck, especially a 24 year old one, has probably been in the sun for a lot of its life and the plastic on the speedo needle warped. I have see them warped beyond belief, but I have also seen them warped so slightly that you can't even tell. It's so subtle, that you can't even tell, but the needle is rubbing and catching on the plastic that makes up the gauge. The needle well increase just fine, to 70mph you said, but it will catch and jump down and eventually will stop moving at 30mph you said. Also, the pin/rod that attaches the needle to the mechanism behind the gauge may be bent. The bent pin in combination with the warped needle might be your problem. I can see the sun-faded paint on the hood, and the general condition of the vehicle. It was ridden hard and put away wet. I don't think any possibilities can be ruled out without being checked. I would have to look at the FSM, can't check it right now but think the 87 has a speedometer cable, someone will correct me if I am wrong, possibly cable is bad?? All of the Pathfinders had manual speedometer cables until 1994. That's when Nissan implemented electronic speed measuring. A 1987 Pathfinder would have a speedometer cable, but I don't think it could go bad in the way you might be thinking. The cable could have stretched or frayed, but in that case it wouldn't work at all. Edited December 29, 2011 by 1994SEV6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 All of the Pathfinders had manual speedometer cables until 1994 1993. That's when Nissan implemented electronic speed measuring. A 1987 Pathfinder would have a speedometer cable, but I don't think it could go bad in the way you might be thinking. The cable could have stretched or frayed, but in that case it wouldn't work at all. Fixed that. Basically, square dash = cable, rounded dash = electric. And 87-93 were square, 94-95 (97 for a hardbody) are rounded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Word thanks for the insight, that was my conclusion as well. If the cable was damaged enough to cause problems it would also not work. i had the gauge off a while back and rolled the truck slowly and the cable rotated just fine at low speeds. My guess was the gauge was sticking. This pathy sat for a few years in wyoming so i would assume that triple digit weather beating down on it unprotected took its toll. next question, since the dash is pretty shot and eventually this thing is going to get gutted and caged. would a aftermarket manual speedometer work or would i need to shell out the bucks to find a OEM replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 I would look at the part-outs on here and maybe in the local wrecking yards, you'll probably find one for a good price that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 Older Nissans and Datsuns (probably all older cars) are very prone to melted/warped speedo needles. A truck, especially a 24 year old one, has probably been in the sun for a lot of its life and the plastic on the speedo needle warped. I have see them warped beyond belief, but I have also seen them warped so slightly that you can't even tell. It's so subtle, that you can't even tell, but the needle is rubbing and catching on the plastic that makes up the gauge. The needle well increase just fine, to 70mph you said, but it will catch and jump down and eventually will stop moving at 30mph you said. Also, the pin/rod that attaches the needle to the mechanism behind the gauge may be bent. The bent pin in combination with the warped needle might be your problem. I can see the sun-faded paint on the hood, and the general condition of the vehicle. It was ridden hard and put away wet. I don't think any possibilities can be ruled out without being checked. All of the Pathfinders had manual speedometer cables until 1994. That's when Nissan implemented electronic speed measuring. A 1987 Pathfinder would have a speedometer cable, but I don't think it could go bad in the way you might be thinking. The cable could have stretched or frayed, but in that case it wouldn't work at all. I pulled apart the Instrument cluster and tried to bend the needle back straight, but as soon as i touched it the 24 year old plastic shattered. on a good note, when it shattered it also dropped back to 0mph and now properly works. I just need to figure out how to repair/replace the needle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I pulled apart the Instrument cluster and tried to bend the needle back straight, but as soon as i touched it the 24 year old plastic shattered. on a good note, when it shattered it also dropped back to 0mph and now properly works. I just need to figure out how to repair/replace the needle. you're probably better than me, but I have terrible luck with those gauges. Whenever I try to pull the needle out (in the JY or my own truck) I break the needle, break the little rod, or I break the gauge completely. I had to replace my temp. gauge to do this but then snapped my fuel gauge on the re-installation and had to swap it out. No fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 (edited) you're probably better than me, but I have terrible luck with those gauges. Whenever I try to pull the needle out (in the JY or my own truck) I break the needle, break the little rod, or I break the gauge completely. I had to replace my temp. gauge to do this but then snapped my fuel gauge on the re-installation and had to swap it out. No fun. Yeah, just wish I would go back and be a little more careful with it. No luck on the local junk yards, none around here have pathy's or hard bodies with my instrument cluster. What I started with. How the needle broke Cluster Pulled apart ODO gears looked ok cleaned up ready to go back in Edited December 31, 2011 by maddoc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 you could always do something dorky as a temp needle till you find one like glue one of those little plastic sammich swords as a needle or I've seen zip ties made into needles already. not the cleanest looking but gets by and is defiantly a more 'unique' approach as a get-by (i personally think someone had their hands in those gauges to start with, having white needles on an orange numbered gauge) for your vin question I probably overlooked being answered at the top of this page too, "JN8" = multi purpose passenger vehicle . The 11th digit of the vin is what plant it was from, "C" for Tennessee "W" for it took a trip from the good ol' island of Kyushu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 (edited) you could always do something dorky as a temp needle till you find one like glue one of those little plastic sammich swords as a needle or I've seen zip ties made into needles already. not the cleanest looking but gets by and is defiantly a more 'unique' approach as a get-by (i personally think someone had their hands in those gauges to start with, having white needles on an orange numbered gauge) for your vin question I probably overlooked being answered at the top of this page too, "JN8" = multi purpose passenger vehicle . The 11th digit of the vin is what plant it was from, "C" for Tennessee "W" for it took a trip from the good ol' island of Kyushu I was thinking along the same lines I could probably make a jig to hold the needle and glue it back together. Also a little history on this pathy, it was a rollover and was repaired by a shop which is why i have a aftermarket sunroof on a truck that shouldn't have one Cool mine is a "W" so looks like it came from Japan. Thanks for the information Edited December 31, 2011 by maddoc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 (edited) I was thinking along the same lines I could probably make a jig to hold the needle and glue it back together. Also a little history on this pathy, it was a rollover and was repaired by a shop which is why i have a aftermarket sunroof on a truck that shouldn't have one Cool mine is a "W" so looks like it came from Japan. Thanks for the information I vote for dorky-ness. I suggest: For the VIN, the first 3 digits indicate where it is from. JN8. J = Japan. N8= multi-purpose vehicle. My truck is 1N6 which is USA produced truck. A 3N1 would be a Mexican produced car. It's actually kinda cool. A VIN number can tell you anything and everything about a car. Without even using a computer you can still figure some stuff out. Nunya is also correct. The first 3 digits tell you the country and type of vehicle, but the 11th digit specifies the plant it was made in. http://nissanhelp.com/diy/common/nissan_vin.htm Edited December 31, 2011 by 1994SEV6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Oh, 4chan. I like the sandwich sword idea, or you could just pull a needle out of something else. A clock hand could be fun, and not too difficult. Just cut the remaining needle to the point where it'll fit the clock hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 4chan? what's that? who changed my post? I don't know what 4chan is. a friend of mine just posted this picture on my facebook wall. I thought it was funny. why did someone change it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 (edited) 4chan? what's that? who changed my post? I don't know what 4chan is. a friend of mine just posted this picture on my facebook wall. I thought it was funny. why did someone change it? lol You hotlinked an image from 4chan.org, and that isn't allowed (that site disallows it). Either that or the image is just dead by now. Just forget about 4chan.org, you probably should just stay away from there. Edited January 1, 2012 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Was going to say, now that the cluster is apart perfect time to plastic polish the clear cover inside and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 Was going to say, now that the cluster is apart perfect time to plastic polish the clear cover inside and out. I Did that a Little bit mostly just removed the dust and dirt from the gauges and cover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 Going to have to pull the instrument cluster apart again, the bulb that lights up the left side of my speedo went out. Figures seeing as how i was just in the cluster last weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel526 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Hey maddoc.. I have an 87 Pathy too! I just had to swap the motor in it and having some issues with vacuum hoses. My Pathy had been sitting for 6 years with a blown motor. The previous owner had started to take things apart to do a swap and then stopped. Basically, I have no way of knowing where all the lines should be. Also, it look like some of the emission parts were removed/bypassed, so that makes it even MORE difficult. I have hunted and hunted and can not find a readable/decent vacuum routing diagram. Is there any way you could take a few pics of the vacuum routing on yours? One of the main one's I'm missing is the BIG vacuum nipple in front of the TB, facing straight out. Also, there are two small ones on the back of the TB that are not connected to anything.... Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 Thats not a problem, lets see what I can come up with for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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