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87 twin turbo sas 1 inch lift...


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These are going to go through a rigorous testing on a couple rigs this year. This Pathy is going to be a tow rig for a small buggy. So it will see around 9K stopping on the highway. There is another Pathy that is getting built as a rock crawler (not mine)... long arm front and Double Tri 4 link rear.

 

Not sure if they will be available as parts for now. May end up being full service only setup. The parts will work on both Pathfinders and Xterras... we have four Xterra rigs in line waiting for a full service setup (They drop it off and come pick it up when done.) We did this with a Frontier last year... it worked out well for both parties.

 

I have some cheaper options in mind that could be done on a build to order basis. Maybe a write-up with a bracket kit so parts can be DIY. One idea would use Ford axle/arms/springs/shocks. It would be somewhat easy to build with a proven design (40 years). Go to a JY and pull all the Ford stuff for a reasonable price. Here are the fabricated brackets needed to make this build work.. so to speak. It would not be the "Web Wheeler perfect build", but the price would be! I have one guy interested in doing such a setup... he is on here even.

 

It has come to a point where I have to be careful how much is shown to folks. Too many cannibals out there trying to make a dime off someone else's back...

Edited by GrandpaX
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I have a 2 door pathy and the bolts holding the UCA's are not in the best of shape anymore. Had a shop cross thread the bolts in after letting the bolts come out during an alignment. My pathy is from the first 6 months of production so I don't want to loose it. V6 5-speed and all. I want something to replace the front suspension that won't break the bank. I like the ford front end idea as I have access to alot of ford parts. What kind of price would a kit for a ford front end be??? I don't have the welding skills yet but will be looking into classes for after work very soon. Also keep up the great work. I'm wondering about the single turbo setup for my truck as well.

 

Thanks for keeping me wanting to make my pathy into a keeper rig that can be a DD as well.

 

James

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I have a 2 door pathy and the bolts holding the UCA's are not in the best of shape anymore. Had a shop cross thread the bolts in after letting the bolts come out during an alignment. My pathy is from the first 6 months of production so I don't want to loose it. V6 5-speed and all. I want something to replace the front suspension that won't break the bank. I like the ford front end idea as I have access to alot of ford parts. What kind of price would a kit for a ford front end be??? I don't have the welding skills yet but will be looking into classes for after work very soon. Also keep up the great work. I'm wondering about the single turbo setup for my truck as well.

 

Thanks for keeping me wanting to make my pathy into a keeper rig that can be a DD as well.

 

James

 

My idea on that we be to make the brackets and have a link to a build that used them. Plans on how to make the crossmembers..etc. The less welding I do on my end the more reasonable the package would be. There is a market out there for the DIY type fella that just wants to get rid of CV axle boots and the worn out ifs/ifs steering..

 

It is also hard to justify spending 5K on a 2K truck... I would think the target would be to keep the whole front axle conversion under 2k (not counting locker/chromo shafts).

Edited by GrandpaX
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True, I saw a pathy online years ago that had the radius arm front end from a ford used. From what I saw it would entail cutting the ifs free and the only thing that looks to be custom made was the cross member he made to bolt the radius arms to. the spring and shock mounts were ford and were welded to the clean frame. I believe a panhard rod bracket had to be made also for locating the axle. I believe that can be gotten aftermarket as well. Tell me what you think.

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O rly...you mean a Ford d44 with the cast-on RA brackets?

 

One idea would use Ford axle/arms/springs/shocks. It would be somewhat easy to build with a proven design (40 years). Go to a JY and pull all the Ford stuff for a reasonable price. Here are the fabricated brackets needed to make this build work.. so to speak.

Edited by tbecktold
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Well was at the junkyard today and found a 2wd Amigo with the rearend still there not sure if it is the same as the 4wd, also found a solid axle toyota truck. I can get the front end from the toyota and the rearend from the amigo for $300 each. Not sure if that is to much. What do you think????

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It was just a thought, if you read the rest of the thread the Amigo rear end is supposed to be a d44. But I will check the frontend and make sure. Is the prices to much or is that about normal???

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Wikipedia

The short-wheelbase (three-door) version was sold as the Isuzu MU and Honda Jazz in Japan, with the names Isuzu Amigo and later Isuzu Rodeo Sport used in the United States. Throughout continental Europe, the three-door was called Opel Frontera Sport, with the Vauxhall Frontera Sport title used in the United Kingdom, and Holden Frontera Sport in Australasia.

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Unless you plan on doing some major hardcore wheeling I don't see any good reason to change the rear end unless you just want to and like spending money. Sounded like you were on a budget though. That's why I'm bring it up.

Other than the fact that you will spend double on gears for a nissan rearend and hardly any locker options ...

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Other than the fact that you will spend double on gears for a nissan rearend and hardly any locker options ...

 

It balances out pretty much. Most people aren't changing gear sets over and over again. So when you compare the cost of buying a different rear end and making it fit with the extra cost of gears you might be worse off changing the axle unless you're able to do the work yourself and find a good axle that don't need any work. Locker option isn't that big of a deal for me. Anything other than a selectable locker brings with it a load of "compromise". However gear options I see as a possible problem. Again it really depends on what you plan on doing with your rig. Are you trying to do some serious wheeling or are you just getting rid of the IFS?

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Well seeing as the bolts used to align the frontend were cross threaded at one time and seem to be having problem keeping the alignment. I'm looking for the best option for my frontend. I don't know how hard it would be to fix the UCA attaching points in the frame.

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Rodeo Dana 44 Rear end.. not all had a 44 and must be from 90-97.

 

I cut 233's out as fast as I buy them.. I think they are a good axle.. The 44 just has more support and the parts are everywhere. If I bust a ring and pinion in Moab.. a new one is in town. A disk brake axle with the correct bolt pattern and can be built a 100 different ways.. Heck Nissan even runs Dana axles now in the newer stuff. The H233B is a Hitachi. It is just the brand of axle Nissan chose to use at the time. So for the faithful "Nissan" folks.. it is about as Nissan as a Toyota axle.

 

Lockers are not cheap... and one would like to maybe sell them when done with a rig. A Dana 44 locker sells one heck of a lot faster than an axle Nissan quit using 8 years ago.

Edited by GrandpaX
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I'm not saying that its not a good axle heck I'm still using mine with 37's . Stock rear 4.62 gears welded. Waggy dana 44 lockrite locker and 4.56 gears. I'm not having problems yet. I am looking for a set of dana 60's full width for more piece of mind though.

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O rly...you mean a Ford d44 with the cast-on RA brackets?

You could use that axle Trent.. the only problem being it needs to be narrowed down. The only easy way to do this is a WAH...

 

http://www.bcbroncos.com/frontsusp1.html

The better axle is a 77 or earlier f150 that you can just grind a c off the long side cut 3" off it and weld it back on then hang some chevy outers on it!
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The better axle is a 77 or earlier f150 that you can just grind a c off the long side cut 3" off it and weld it back on then hang some chevy outers on it!

 

I think this is what Trent is getting at... Sure the axle you are talking about is more workable.. however the cast units are cheaper and all over the place. The WAH also lets the Ford arms move freely.. thus making it flex well with the shorter OEM arms. The WAH can not be used on the pre-78 HP units.

 

The WAH costs a little extra cash.. but so does a wristed radius arm or even extending the Ford arms. The wristed setup also puts all the axle rotating stress on one arm.. where the WAH cuts that stress in half by distributing it to both..

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