Towncivilian Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 So the adapter you made uses the pass side stock plug to feed to the relays to "trigger" the new relays which than sends power out to the new plugs right? Correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 IIRC the camera was sitting on the same stack of tires for both shots, in an attempt to get around this. Then again, my camera does weird things trying to compensate for low light levels. For a good comparison shot plug one light into the factory harness and one into the relay harness. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Quite amazing how much the difference is... (In reference to JamesRich's post above.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 I would use the passenger side plug, personally. As it's the first contact made inside the switch. I can simulate a burnt out headlight by turning my headlight switch only halfway from markers->headlights. I think it's funny. Same thing with high beams, if I pull back just slightly on the stalk, only one high beam comes on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 IIRC the camera was sitting on the same stack of tires for both shots, in an attempt to get around this. Then again, my camera does weird things trying to compensate for low light levels. Just to show you what moving the camera ever so slightly can do to simulate a brighter light, it may look like the camera is at the same level, but it's not. I'm not trying to call you out or anything, just saying the light against a wall is a much better way to show a comparison. This is my truck with 55w low beams in H4 E-spec housings. I would use the passenger side plug, personally. As it's the first contact made inside the switch. I can simulate a burnt out headlight by turning my headlight switch only halfway from markers->headlights. I think it's funny. Same thing with high beams, if I pull back just slightly on the stalk, only one high beam comes on. Just to expand on this. Halfway between markers and headlights on my switch, I can turn on my driver side headlight, and the passenger side is out. I was wrong in the post I'm quoting. and pulling halfway back to turn the brights on, the passenger bright comes on, and the driver side low stays lit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 You can also use a fuse block, if you are going to be wiring in more accessories for a cleaner look. I picked on up that holds 6 fuses which should be more than enough for me for 15 dollars. I just don't like those fuse holders hanging off the battery, at least looks wise. Yep, I am running one of those power distro blocks, manu'd a mount that makes it look somewhat clean... http://www.torymoore.com/pathfinder/spaghetti.html All done! Dude, that is AWESOME. You really done a fantastic job on this one... I am impressed...makes me want to tear mine out and RE DO IT!!!! Looks like a very clean install, too. X2!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Just to show you what moving the camera ever so slightly can do to simulate a brighter light, it may look like the camera is at the same level, but it's not. I'm not trying to call you out or anything, just saying the light against a wall is a much better way to show a comparison. This is my truck with 55w low beams in H4 E-spec housings. Just to expand on this. Halfway between markers and headlights on my switch, I can turn on my driver side headlight, and the passenger side is out. I was wrong in the post I'm quoting. and pulling halfway back to turn the brights on, the passenger bright comes on, and the driver side low stays lit. Hey, I appreciate the criticism. I pretty well botched the stock wiring harness (nobody around here knew what a female 9004 was), or I'd try new pics with a wall. I added a disclaimer to my original post. And yeah, just depends on the bend of each contact in the switch. Each filament has its own contact (except for the markers/tail lights). Also, I've had no trouble with my lights since I did this mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Looks like my headlight wiring was alright. I notice absolutely ZERO difference. But, still did the mod since I now have 100w high beams. That'll fry the stock wiring for sure. here are comparison pics. DS is not relayed in the first two pics, and in the final pic, both are running on relayed power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Looks good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Yeah I think this is one of my next mods... My 93 xe headlights are the big SUCK. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 The most important thing that makes this mod worth doing is that your high beams will not lag ever again. I remember how I had to wait for the right one to engage. After doing this all the problems are gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r3mDollz Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Has anyone tried this with the H4 set up? Could we use the same harness just with the H4 connectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 Sure. It will be even better with H4 bulbs. Just use a different plug on the end. I just wanted to keep the factory headlight style. You will have to swap to the hardbody grille for H4 lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r3mDollz Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Beautiful, thanks mate. Cheers for the write up to, did a great job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky2 Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 Just in case someone is still looking. I found one of these on the net and I think it was cheaper, just have to shop around but here's a link to buy one for $40 http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/ADS/Wire-Harness/9004-Headlight-Heavy-Duty-Wire-Harness-Relay/532242/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Photos from the first page are missing. Could someone post new photos? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdauria Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 it's not much but this is what mine looks like. I used 3-conductor, 12ga underground feeder wire from lowe's. Insulation is nice and thick and the install comes out really clean. http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q6/iTHINKiHAVE_add/NPORA/99C2DBDC-D4C3-47B3-96D6-86F163E2B331-1510-0000003E2A793BED_zps856dfe5b.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 LOL at "not much". That looks clean man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdauria Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Thanks! Did a bunch of searching around and pondering since i have limited tools, space (college apartment), but mostly it's freakin' cold and the less time fussing around under the hood the better at the moment lol Quick tip: You can see I put male-female connectors on the pigtails of the socket... This way it's much easier to swap out the sockets (could only find crappy plastic ones), switch to IPF's or E-code housings Also added a dab of dielectric grease to keep the connections healthy and put a little piece of gorilla tape over each to insulate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Cleaner than mine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalMonty Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 If anyone could re-host/re-post the wiring diagram pictures, I'd greatly appreciate it!I spent hours working on mine, starting with the passenger side - but I never got it to work right, so I had to put the factory 9004 male end back on to the wires and go back to stock. I had a multimeter, but it's strange...depending on whether I was on high or low beam, all 3 wires on the factory harness had positive voltage at some point - so I was never sure which one was the ground wire. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 That's odd... suggests a bad ground, maybe? Was it full 12v positive? IIRC the wires you want are red with differently colored stripes. I didn't use the factory grounds, just ran them all (lights and relays) straight to a bolt on the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Damn it... All the pictures disappeared. Here is the wiring diagram: H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Rise, zombie, rise! Not on a Pathy but this video shows a pretty good gain relaying the headlights on a Jeep, with before and after measurements using a proper lux meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Nice. I need to do this on my "new" 95. Forgot how ****** the lights were lol. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now