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Building a Headlight Relay Harness


Tungsten
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IIRC the camera was sitting on the same stack of tires for both shots, in an attempt to get around this. Then again, my camera does weird things trying to compensate for low light levels. :shrug:

For a good comparison shot plug one light into the factory harness and one into the relay harness.

James

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I would use the passenger side plug, personally. As it's the first contact made inside the switch. I can simulate a burnt out headlight by turning my headlight switch only halfway from markers->headlights. I think it's funny. Same thing with high beams, if I pull back just slightly on the stalk, only one high beam comes on.

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  • 4 weeks later...

IIRC the camera was sitting on the same stack of tires for both shots, in an attempt to get around this. Then again, my camera does weird things trying to compensate for low light levels. :shrug:

 

Just to show you what moving the camera ever so slightly can do to simulate a brighter light, it may look like the camera is at the same level, but it's not. I'm not trying to call you out or anything, just saying the light against a wall is a much better way to show a comparison. This is my truck with 55w low beams in H4 E-spec housings.

 

IMG_20120227_175346.jpg

 

IMG_20120227_175351.jpg

 

 

I would use the passenger side plug, personally. As it's the first contact made inside the switch. I can simulate a burnt out headlight by turning my headlight switch only halfway from markers->headlights. I think it's funny. Same thing with high beams, if I pull back just slightly on the stalk, only one high beam comes on.

 

Just to expand on this. Halfway between markers and headlights on my switch, I can turn on my driver side headlight, and the passenger side is out. I was wrong in the post I'm quoting. and pulling halfway back to turn the brights on, the passenger bright comes on, and the driver side low stays lit.

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You can also use a fuse block, if you are going to be wiring in more accessories for a cleaner look. I picked on up that holds 6 fuses which should be more than enough for me for 15 dollars. I just don't like those fuse holders hanging off the battery, at least looks wise.

 

Yep, I am running one of those power distro blocks, manu'd a mount that makes it look somewhat clean... http://www.torymoore.com/pathfinder/spaghetti.html

 

313298_10150273558354075_612879074_7705219_6843489_n.jpg

 

All done!

Dude, that is AWESOME. You really done a fantastic job on this one... I am impressed...makes me want to tear mine out and RE DO IT!!!!

 

WAVEY Looks like a very clean install, too.

 

X2!!

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Just to show you what moving the camera ever so slightly can do to simulate a brighter light, it may look like the camera is at the same level, but it's not. I'm not trying to call you out or anything, just saying the light against a wall is a much better way to show a comparison. This is my truck with 55w low beams in H4 E-spec housings.

 

 

Just to expand on this. Halfway between markers and headlights on my switch, I can turn on my driver side headlight, and the passenger side is out. I was wrong in the post I'm quoting. and pulling halfway back to turn the brights on, the passenger bright comes on, and the driver side low stays lit.

 

Hey, I appreciate the criticism. I pretty well botched the stock wiring harness (nobody around here knew what a female 9004 was), or I'd try new pics with a wall. I added a disclaimer to my original post.

 

And yeah, just depends on the bend of each contact in the switch. Each filament has its own contact (except for the markers/tail lights).

 

P1010001-12.jpg

 

Also, I've had no trouble with my lights since I did this mod. :aok:

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Looks like my headlight wiring was alright. I notice absolutely ZERO difference. But, still did the mod since I now have 100w high beams. That'll fry the stock wiring for sure. here are comparison pics. DS is not relayed in the first two pics, and in the final pic, both are running on relayed power.

 

IMG_20120308_181914.jpg

 

IMG_20120308_182115.jpg

 

IMG_20120308_182252.jpg

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The most important thing that makes this mod worth doing is that your high beams will not lag ever again. I remember how I had to wait for the right one to engage. After doing this all the problems are gone.

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  • 6 months later...

Sure. It will be even better with H4 bulbs. Just use a different plug on the end. I just wanted to keep the factory headlight style. You will have to swap to the hardbody grille for H4 lights.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

it's not much but this is what mine looks like. I used 3-conductor, 12ga underground feeder wire from lowe's. Insulation is nice and thick and the install comes out really clean.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q6/iTHINKiHAVE_add/NPORA/99C2DBDC-D4C3-47B3-96D6-86F163E2B331-1510-0000003E2A793BED_zps856dfe5b.jpg

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Thanks! Did a bunch of searching around and pondering since i have limited tools, space (college apartment), but mostly it's freakin' cold and the less time fussing around under the hood the better at the moment lol

 

Quick tip: You can see I put male-female connectors on the pigtails of the socket...

This way it's much easier to swap out the sockets (could only find crappy plastic ones), switch to IPF's or E-code housings ;)

Also added a dab of dielectric grease to keep the connections healthy and put a little piece of gorilla tape over each to insulate

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  • 2 months later...

If anyone could re-host/re-post the wiring diagram pictures, I'd greatly appreciate it!

I spent hours working on mine, starting with the passenger side - but I never got it to work right, so I had to put the factory 9004 male end back on to the wires and go back to stock. :(


I had a multimeter, but it's strange...depending on whether I was on high or low beam, all 3 wires on the factory harness had positive voltage at some point - so I was never sure which one was the ground wire. :( :( :(

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That's odd... suggests a bad ground, maybe? Was it full 12v positive? IIRC the wires you want are red with differently colored stripes. I didn't use the factory grounds, just ran them all (lights and relays) straight to a bolt on the firewall.

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