MaritimeMan Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 Went with the perma-cool kit, summit part number: PRM-10695, and on a scale of 1-10 difficulty, I'd say its about a 2, maybe a 3 or 4 with the engine in place, just due to gettin the adapter plate onto the engine. The kit comes with everything you need and you use the same filter, so here are the tools you will need: Crecent wrench 3/8" wrench Flat head screw driver Channel locks Thread Sealer Drill w/ bit Ok install is super easy, but the best way to do it is with the motor cold. First attatch the two nipples to the adapter plate using some thread sealer. Use the crecent (not sure proper size wrench) to tighten these down while holding it in your hand. Next, take off your old filter, but do not discard it. Set it aside. The kit comes with varying nipples find the one that easily screws onto your existing filter nipple. And I mean easy. It should slide right on, just like a filter. Now take that nipple off, it should have knurrled first few threads, and thread it into the adapter plate, non-threaded end into the adapter first. Now take the whole assembly making note of the IN and OUT stamped on the perspective hose fitting,, and use the supplied o ring, placing it in the groove of the adapter (oil it like you would a filter), and screw the unit onto the old filter location. Once in place, put the wrench back on the nipples the make sure everything is tight. This is where it may get a bit tricky if the engine is in place. I cut the length of supplied hose in half, and attatched them to the nipples, tightening down with the suppled hose clamps. Hard part done. Now for the relocation. You want to keep the hoses away from the exhaust at all costs, so I ran mine forward, between the battery and power steering reservoir, and mounted the filter adapter just behind the fuel filter. Attatch the nipples to the filter adapter in the same manner as the engine one. This adapter has a special nipple different from the others in that it is knurrled about 2/3 of the way down. or 1/3, half empty half full. Screw the short end into the adapter, I used the channel locks and a rag to make sure I got the knurrled part in there good. Screw the filter (new or old, uses stock filter) and boom done with that. Now to mount the bugger. Since there are three holes to drill, and only one can be reached with the braket in the filter adapter as a guide, I used that one to start off. The three holes make a triangle with the long bottom being 2" and the outter two to the top, 1.25" (make sense?) Just measure from the first hole, draw a triangle where you want it to go, drill away. Use the 3/8 wrench to mount the filter bracket with the supplied screws. My hoses were a bit long so I trimmed them down, but be sure not to kink the hoses in any way. This is your oil we are talkin about, so don't cut them too short. I used the extra hose as rub guards any where the hoses touched something. Now make note of the OUT and IN on the filter adapter. OUT from the engine goes to the IN of the filter and vise versa. Once again DO NOT mix these up, it will result in no oil to your engine. Once the hoses are attatched, use the last two hose clamps to secure them. Done Check you oil level before you start your engine, just to get a reference. I simply used that last 3/8 of oil to make it round 4 quarts once I saw it go down a bit. Start the motor. If you did everything right, feel the filter and it should start getting warm after a minute of two. If not shut down the engine and check you hose routing. Other than that its a simple install and easy filter changing. Gotta love that. Hope this helps. M.M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buzz Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 Do you know if you can get an oil filter relocation kit to suit a 1991 diesel Terrano. Would be interested as filter is a bugger to change. Whoever designed its location at Nissan should have been sacked and sent to the Mitsubishi factory!!! Buzz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 You might mention that the kit costs $45.80 plus ship from Summit or $45.99 from Jeg's, and is the exact same kit that 4x4parts.com sells for $59.95 plus ship. Now you can use a Ford PH8A(Fram part #) one-quart filter! Do away with your wimpy Nissan filter. More oil capacity, better filtering capacity, better cooling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 Good write up MM !! I like the idea, and I'm sure I'll do it soon. My question is about the appropriate oil level, especially if you go with the ford filter. More oil is good up to the point where you start blowing seals; with the 'normal' amount of oil specified, in this set up you will actually be a little bit low at operating condition. What is the happy balance ? I guess you could calculate the volume of the length of hoses+'oversized' filter difference, but does any one know from experience? Maybe I'm overly concerned, but I'm also an aircooled VW buff so I'm familiar with deeper sump, oil cooler atachments, etc. The biggest mistake is that people add this to increase oil capacity and cooling, but fail to to take into account the greater oil path volume and actually end up starving the motor and killing it sooner than if they left it alone. I know its apples and eggplants but the principle is the same. Technically it would also apply to after market auto tranny coolers, but with 8+ quarts it probably doesn't matter, but then, with larger diameter hoses and greater capacity coolers, who knows ? Feel free to slap me down if I'm being silly... Bernard P.S. Didn't I read an entire thread about what garbage Fram is or am I loosing my mind ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red-finder Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 MaritimeMan I'd like to see pictures of how you mounted the filter. If I read it right did you mount it in the engine bay near the fuel filter? I would like to do the filter relocation, but I can't find a good place to put it. Most people say to put it in the front of the wheel well, but I don't like the idea of getting rocks and mud thrown on the oil filter. Your location sounds pretty good. Is it going to be easy to change the filter and will you be able to keep oil from going all over the starter and frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 Good write up MM !! I like the idea, and I'm sure I'll do it soon. My question is about the appropriate oil level, especially if you go with the ford filter. More oil is good up to the point where you start blowing seals; with the 'normal' amount of oil specified, in this set up you will actually be a little bit low at operating condition. What is the happy balance ? I guess you could calculate the volume of the length of hoses+'oversized' filter difference, but does any one know from experience? Maybe I'm overly concerned, but I'm also an aircooled VW buff so I'm familiar with deeper sump, oil cooler atachments, etc. The biggest mistake is that people add this to increase oil capacity and cooling, but fail to to take into account the greater oil path volume and actually end up starving the motor and killing it sooner than if they left it alone. I know its apples and eggplants but the principle is the same. Technically it would also apply to after market auto tranny coolers, but with 8+ quarts it probably doesn't matter, but then, with larger diameter hoses and greater capacity coolers, who knows ? Feel free to slap me down if I'm being silly... Bernard P.S. Didn't I read an entire thread about what garbage Fram is or am I loosing my mind ? Isn't that why you have a dipstick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 Um, well, 3 feet of 1/2" hose holds around 1 pint (if my math is correct) plus one 1 pint for an oversized filter. If you have this set up and put 4 quarts in your motor, then start it, assuming you fill the lines and filter with oil, your engine is now running with only 3 quarts in it which could effect lubrication. Not something I would want to do... The dip stick isn't very helpful in this situation unless you work it out and re-graduate it for operating conditions. Or were you joking ? Bernard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 ...and if you pulled the dipstick at that point, it would indicate that the oil level was low, therefore you would need to add more until it indicates a full level, right? Nobody's suggesting increasing the oil capacity of the system and then running the same amount of oil, man. It's pretty plain that you would run an additional amount of oil to match the new equipment's capacity. Oil filters are pretty tough critters, they're exposed to water, mud, sticks and rocks in the stock location anyway. If I get the kit, I'll be putting mine in the front of the fenderwell. Easy access, easy to stick a drain pan underneath...etc. If it looks like things are getting hairy around the remote filter, I'll make something out of rubber to go around it for protection. No biggie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 ... The dip stick isn't very helpful in this situation unless you work it out and re-graduate it for operating conditions. Or were you joking ? Bernard Half ways joking. I'd think you're on the right path of guesstimating how much additional you'd need, then fine tune the amount until you're at the right level. Once you determine the amount the first time, you're good to go from then on out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 20, 2004 Share Posted November 20, 2004 I see what you are saying 88, and yes Mr P, once you know what is 'correct' you're ok. BUT you can't get a good reading with the engine running so thats out. Oil level is to be checked a few minutes after running to let most of any oil that will drain down do so. If you have the extra capacity oil path, when you shut the motor off, that will also start draining so when would you when to check it to 'calibrate ' the dipstick. Not to mention you never know if your lines and filter are completely filled when its running. It's this ambiguity that I'm wondering how to get around. I want to know, down the mililiter !! Um, just kidding. I guess the best way is just to do the math on the system you installed, add that much extra, and call it good ? Bernard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 20, 2004 Share Posted November 20, 2004 The oil filter has an anti-drainback valve in it that prevents most of the oil from going back into the oilpan when the engine's turned off anyway. The amount of oil returned to the pan from any additional remote mount parts is negligible. You're reading way too much into it. Just fill it up, run it, top it off and call it good. On another note, I'm going to start poking around some junkyard Fords and see if any have any kind of 90 degree adapters on them stock...may be able to use one of those and a bit of hose to make my own remote for real cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 20, 2004 Share Posted November 20, 2004 Shoot, man. Here's one for $29.99 on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33661 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted November 20, 2004 Share Posted November 20, 2004 I think that's the most times I've read the word 'nipple' in a non-sexual article. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 21, 2004 Share Posted November 21, 2004 Got ya 88. I didn't know about a check valve system in there. Yes, sometimes I read too much into things, but I think this is just a result of not reading enough into things in the past. LOL, I must be getting old. Thanks for the patience and explanation Bernard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfather99 Posted November 23, 2004 Share Posted November 23, 2004 88 will that fit on our pathy's or at least my 92 if so that is a good deal -alcohol- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted November 24, 2004 Author Share Posted November 24, 2004 Here's the whole set up, as viewed from the Pass fender And just the filter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted November 26, 2004 Author Share Posted November 26, 2004 bummer, pics crappin out, well here's the link to em Just Filter Set up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMike Posted November 26, 2004 Share Posted November 26, 2004 yay no more oil in the starter !!!! i gotta get that setup. do you have it set up with a oil cooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted November 26, 2004 Author Share Posted November 26, 2004 No, not yet, that is next. Gotta search the junk yards for one. Just runnin the kit, which is workin fine for now. M.M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted December 3, 2004 Author Share Posted December 3, 2004 88 hooked me up with a cooler off an exploder, so I'll let ya'll know now that goes. Gonna stick it between the radiator and the condenser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pathman Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 NICE headers!! Oh yeah i like the idea of the larger filter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted September 2, 2005 Author Share Posted September 2, 2005 relevance bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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