Chriskaw440 Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 so I soldered a secondary ground line to my maf connector (till I can get a new connector with good wires) and the problem is about 90% gone. I still have a minor wobble in my idle every couple seconds or so. Just wanted to throw that in there. Made a huge difference for me. Thanks Nice....can you show a photo maybe? I can't wait to get mine resolved...probably the most annoying issue I have ever had to live with...besides the tapping lifters......and a chihuahua mix dog that keeps pissing on the trash can in the kitchen when no one is looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 well it's not in there now! lol and "oops" if its suppose be. The brush thing is supposed to be in there. I thought exactly the same as you when I first found mine! I doubt it makes all that much difference though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 The brush thing is supposed to be in there. I thought exactly the same as you when I first found mine! I doubt it makes all that much difference though. gotta love the technology from back then. Mine as pretty nasty with buildup and I'm not going to lose any sleep over it not being there any more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 Nice....can you show a photo maybe? I can't wait to get mine resolved...probably the most annoying issue I have ever had to live with...besides the tapping lifters......and a chihuahua mix dog that keeps pissing on the trash can in the kitchen when no one is looking. I don't have pics but 1. disconnect harness 2. access back of plug where wires go inside you should see some rubber/silicone plugs sealing the wires in get a pick and pull it out 3. put a allen key or other suitable tool inside the resulting hole to release the connector pull it out from the plug. 4. solder on new wire however you see fit or better yet if you know where you can get the right size electrical connector replace it altogether with your new ground line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted August 23, 2011 Author Share Posted August 23, 2011 cool thanks...will give it a try soon. I've since I have been investigating this harness issue and digging into it...moving it around etc etc...its been acting up much less lately....but I know its just temporary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 cool thanks...will give it a try soon. I've since I have been investigating this harness issue and digging into it...moving it around etc etc...its been acting up much less lately....but I know its just temporary. Good luck. Let me know if you do anything else that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 A week ago or so I opened up the harness like you mentioned and simply ran another wire from the middle black wire connection in the harness (ground) to a ground point on the frame. So far it has been much better! It only tried to randomly 'idle up' once. This was just a temporary 'patch' I tried without destroying anything lol...and I used a thin gauge speaker wire as thats all I had on hand. I plan to make it a more permanent patch when I have time. But like I said so far....It's acting tons more normally.....even in the wal mart parking lot! thanks, chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 (edited) A week ago or so I opened up the harness like you mentioned and simply ran another wire from the middle black wire connection in the harness (ground) to a ground point on the frame. So far it has been much better! It only tried to randomly 'idle up' once. This was just a temporary 'patch' I tried without destroying anything lol...and I used a thin gauge speaker wire as thats all I had on hand. I plan to make it a more permanent patch when I have time. But like I said so far....It's acting tons more normally.....even in the wal mart parking lot! thanks, chris Happy to help. Let me know if you manage to make the problem go away completely. I'm holding off a m30 ecu swap till I get this nailed down for sure. Edited September 1, 2011 by ejin4499 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 Happy to help. Let me know if you manage to make the problem go away completely. I'm holding off a m30 ecu swap till I get this nailed down for sure. still keeping an eye on it everytime I come to a stop...and so far its still better. I can tell that sometimes it 'wants' to idle up but wont...possibly because I don't have the greatest gauge wire or connection going on...yet. But I'm still much happier with it. I've been wanting to replace my Spark plug wires too since everything else has been replaced but them....and they've been on there a long time. Once the engine is at operating temp...and I take it out of gear and off the gas...the idle drops right down to normal range immediately and stays there. I'll post a pic soon of my 'el cheapo MAF ground wire patch' soon... thanks, chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Funny that is seems that both of trucks had the same issue and we both battled it for years replacing everything. It would be even better if both of our problems were the same exact thing. I hope it stays fixed mine has for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 Funny that is seems that both of trucks had the same issue and we both battled it for years replacing everything. It would be even better if both of our problems were the same exact thing. I hope it stays fixed mine has for the other day it started doing it again (believe it or not....at wal mart! no joke) and I thought...well crap! but when I checked on my temporary new ground wire, it was already about frayed/broken off from the bolt I had attached it to, from vibration and being very small gauge speaker wire (I had not yet gone to get proper wire connectors) and only had one wire strand still holding it on. So for now I just used a heavier gauge speaker wire that's about twice the thickness and replaced it. I have not driven it yet but I have a pretty good feeling that was the problem. Im just so pressed for any free time lately to work on my truck so I can only manage to slap on a 'quick fix' until the weekend when I get a proper wire connector and my soldering iron out. -Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 the other day it started doing it again (believe it or not....at wal mart! no joke) and I thought...well crap! but when I checked on my temporary new ground wire, it was already about frayed/broken off from the bolt I had attached it to, from vibration and being very small gauge speaker wire (I had not yet gone to get proper wire connectors) and only had one wire strand still holding it on. So for now I just used a heavier gauge speaker wire that's about twice the thickness and replaced it. I have not driven it yet but I have a pretty good feeling that was the problem. Im just so pressed for any free time lately to work on my truck so I can only manage to slap on a 'quick fix' until the weekend when I get a proper wire connector and my soldering iron out. -Chris Well now it seems it's wanting to start acting up again...not as bad as before but still....it does this to me every time I work on it. Runs great for a week or two, then gradually starts back to having this mother f*ckin idle issue. Anyone want to buy it? I'm tired of wrestling with it and its too old to keep dumping money into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Well now it seems it's wanting to start acting up again...not as bad as before but still....it does this to me every time I work on it. Runs great for a week or two, then gradually starts back to having this mother f*ckin idle issue. Anyone want to buy it? I'm tired of wrestling with it and its too old to keep dumping money into. dude if you weren't on the other side of the country from me I would be all over buying that from you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 dude if you weren't on the other side of the country from me I would be all over buying that from you. well I may be frustrated with it but I'm not throwing in the towel just yet...I'm just pressed for free time to do anything more with it. Maybe I just haven't secured the ground good enough yet. besides that....the suspension needs work....shocks are new but I can tell it needs new suspension components now....ugh. never enough time.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 I think that actualy comes stock. I think IIRC that its supposed to act as a catch for oil droplets from your PCV system. I may be wrong on that though You're correct. The pipe cleaner is stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inyourface1650 Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Mine does this as well, I thought it was from the homemade CAI, and it sometimes does have vaccumn leaks, but the MAF thing makes alot more sense. Its nice to see my pathy isnt having any unique problems really! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 Mine does this as well, I thought it was from the homemade CAI, and it sometimes does have vaccumn leaks, but the MAF thing makes alot more sense. Its nice to see my pathy isnt having any unique problems really! Well I have tried this and that with the MAF stuff and wiring but no changes. I'm beginning to think I may have some hidden vacuum line leak(s) where they are hard to locate or I have an erratic TPS even though it's still fairly new. Just living with it for now...and besides, my tailpipe just broke off from the muffler so now I have to order a new muffler/tail pipe assembly, instead of getting it welded for a temporary fix since all if it back there is pretty much a rusty mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted April 21, 2012 Author Share Posted April 21, 2012 Well I have tried this and that with the MAF stuff and wiring but no changes. I'm beginning to think I may have some hidden vacuum line leak(s) where they are hard to locate or I have an erratic TPS even though it's still fairly new. Just living with it for now...and besides, my tailpipe just broke off from the muffler so now I have to order a new muffler/tail pipe assembly, instead of getting it welded for a temporary fix since all if it back there is pretty much a rusty mess. Well I have tried this and that with the MAF stuff and wiring but no changes. I'm beginning to think I may have some hidden vacuum line leak(s) where they are hard to locate or I have an erratic TPS even though it's still fairly new. Just living with it for now...and besides, my tailpipe just broke off from the muffler so now I have to order a new muffler/tail pipe assembly, instead of getting it welded for a temporary fix since all if it back there is pretty much a rusty mess. Latest update.....and just some gorilla tape (better than duct tape) may have been my fix. Even though I had tried to seal some dry rot cracks in the air intake tube between the air filter and the plenum with sealant, it looks like it didn't stick very well as I discovered when I removed the tube during an inspection for bad vacuum lines. Since the cracks are all inside the 'flexible ribbed area' of the tube, I just cleaned the whole area with alcohol, and wrapped it up tightly with the gorilla tape, covering the entire flexible area of the tube, and put it back in its place. This was over two weeks ago and the idle has not jumped up to the 2,000 rpm range since and over all idle seems much improved. Nothing else was changed. I'm hoping (since everything else has been replaced) that it was just a matter of the engine sucking in unregulated air through the tube cracks. For now the tape seems to be doing the job as a temporary solution....going to give it more time to see. -Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 Latest update.....and just some gorilla tape (better than duct tape) may have been my fix. Even though I had tried to seal some dry rot cracks in the air intake tube between the air filter and the plenum with sealant, it looks like it didn't stick very well as I discovered when I removed the tube during an inspection for bad vacuum lines. Since the cracks are all inside the 'flexible ribbed area' of the tube, I just cleaned the whole area with alcohol, and wrapped it up tightly with the gorilla tape, covering the entire flexible area of the tube, and put it back in its place. This was over two weeks ago and the idle has not jumped up to the 2,000 rpm range since and over all idle seems much improved. Nothing else was changed. I'm hoping (since everything else has been replaced) that it was just a matter of the engine sucking in unregulated air through the tube cracks. For now the tape seems to be doing the job as a temporary solution....going to give it more time to see. -Chris You might try a thin coating of RTV on the outside. Its strong bonds well the tube and is still flexible. Not to mention you probably already have a bunch in your garage so its cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted April 21, 2012 Author Share Posted April 21, 2012 You might try a thin coating of RTV on the outside. Its strong bonds well the tube and is still flexible. Not to mention you probably already have a bunch in your garage so its cheap. I think thats what I tried a couple years ago but it probably didn't last since it is kinda difficult to get it very clean down in the grooves of the tube and I probably did a lame job if cleaning it lol. That's why this time I just covered IT ALL just to see if it made a difference. It even sounds different since I have a K&N cone style air filter...now it sounds like a jet engine whine....maybe because it's sucking more air directly through the filter....or through another tiny leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 You could try disconnecting the AAC valve (it's the valve in the idle control body that the ECU uses to control the air going in and therefore idle speed). WIth it disconnected the idle should drop to 700 RPM. With it unplugged the ECU will be unable to use any strange sensor information to adjust the idle speed. If the idle is unstable with it unplugged you know you are looking at a certain set of issues. If the idle is good with it unplugged, then you know that the ECU is messing this up, either because it is bad, or because it is being fed bad information by a sensor (e.g. crank angle sensor). You can unplug the AAC valve at the valve itself, which is inconvenient because it's under the plenum, or at the connection on top of the passenger valve cover. It should be the only connector with only two wires there. Just wanted to bump this to say that this helped me today. My idle has been too high and I haven't been able to pass emissions. Disconnecting this got my idle down low enough that I finally passed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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