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Hey everyone... I am chasing a set of 1" body blocks and a bit of information on who makes the best value for money suspension lift kit?

I live in Australia but freight out of the USA isn't a issue... Just need to be able to get on the web site and pay by credit card...

I used to have ironman torsion bars in my 720 and they where great, but as with anything there is a lot more on offer now...

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hey lukeman. hunt around a few web sites in the four wheel drive monthly magazine. there are a few in there for around $15 a block. just go a 50mm easier for a body lift. suspension wise just about all brands will do a 2 inch suspension lift.

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Depends on how much money you are willing to spend. If you are doing the BL might as well go two inches. This will allow you to run at least 32's. If you are looking into doing this stuff I personally go through 4x4parts.com.

Hope this helps.

I have done a 3" body lift and a 3" suspension lift. Let me know if you need any help.

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Depends on how much money you are willing to spend. If you are doing the BL might as well go two inches. This will allow you to run at least 32's. If you are looking into doing this stuff I personally go through 4x4parts.com.

Hope this helps.

I have done a 3" body lift and a 3" suspension lift. Let me know if you need any help.

 

How do you go with wear in the cv joints and suspension with the big lift and big tyres?

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How do you go with wear in the cv joints and suspension with the big lift and big tyres?

 

I have torn two boots...but i was doing some really ruff wheeling/rock climbing. If i am mudding or doing moderate wheeling it is okay. I personnaly run 33's. also you might want to look into getting manual locking hubs. I have the Mile marker hubs and they are strong. be sure to use alot of thread locker. I have already jarred them loose a few times and had to tighten them on the trail. As far as suspension goes I like the ride better now especcially with the new UCA's. The Calminin ones change the angle and how they mount a little. The new bushings are nice to.

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I have torn two boots...but i was doing some really ruff wheeling/rock climbing. If i am mudding or doing moderate wheeling it is okay. I personnaly run 33's. also you might want to look into getting manual locking hubs. I have the Mile marker hubs and they are strong. be sure to use alot of thread locker. I have already jarred them loose a few times and had to tighten them on the trail. As far as suspension goes I like the ride better now especcially with the new UCA's. The Calminin ones change the angle and how they mount a little. The new bushings are nice

 

I have independent front suspension that is wound up to the bump stop... How much lift is that to standard then?

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Sounds like ya need to crank/re-index those torsion bars or get new ones if those are completely shot(like mine ALMOST are)..

 

As far as UCA's/suspension lift I just installed Rough Country's UCA's(Superlift UCA's painted black). As far as ball joint correction they do what they are advertised to do when you crank the torsion bars, also these things have grease zerks so that was a plus. You would probably learn more from searching around here(unless you already have) and making your own opinions.

 

As long as you change your rear coils and shocks, and crank your stock torsion bars up then you can achieve the 3" they advertise for the aftermarket UCA's. Im not able to cause my torsion bars are about shot, so I need to get some new ones from 4x4parts.com as even after re-indexing them I still have a rake.

 

Check out 4x4parts.com like Mauitrailguy stated, you can buy their kit(s), or you can try to piece together one for cheaper.

 

Ive got no information on BL I can provide as I havent installed mine yet, just waiting!

 

Hope that helps, everyone here is willing to help you when you have questions or concerns(Im sure as you've already seen).

Edited by feyded
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Do you need adjustable trailing arms for the rear diff for 3" lift... You get UCA's but wouldn't you need trailing/control arms for the rear?

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4x4parts.com has Body lift kits both 2 and 3 inch. Remember you have to do much more work for the three inch lift then the two inch lift.

Not on a WD21. It's almost the same amount of work either way (fuel filler being the major difference). ON a WD22 Xterra, there's a big difference between 2-3" body lifts in terms of how much work is involved.

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4x4parts.com has Body lift kits both 2 and 3 inch. Remember you have to do much more work for the three inch lift then the two inch lift.

Not on a WD21. It's almost the same amount of work either way (fuel filler being the major difference). ON a WD22 Xterra, there's a big difference between 2-3" body lifts in terms of how much work is involved.

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Im assuming you're referring to the multi-link suspension setup. As far as I know, you do not need to buy any parts to increase their length, Ive not had any problems, and Ive also not had to do anything about the Panhard rod.

 

I could be wrong, but Ive not had any problems with my lift without modifying those items.

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Ok... I am going to go with 2" body and suspension lifts... Still going to put UCA's in for reliability and movement range... 32" tyres should still fit...

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Not on a WD21. It's almost the same amount of work either way (fuel filler being the major difference). ON a WD22 Xterra, there's a big difference between 2-3" body lifts in terms of how much work is involved.

 

You are mistaken. You don't have to move anything with a 2" BL. As for a 3" BL you do need to readjust the cruise control. Relocate the steering pump reservoir and lengthen you fuel fill hose. A radiator drop down bracket is recommended but not necessary.

 

As far as a pan hard bracket Calmini made mine, but the holes were off about 1/16th of an inch. I drilled them out. This helps correct the angle so the vehicle doesn't try and pull to one side when flexing.

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  • 6 months later...

You are mistaken. You don't have to move anything with a 2" BL. As for a 3" BL you do need to readjust the cruise control. Relocate the steering pump reservoir and lengthen you fuel fill hose. A radiator drop down bracket is recommended but not necessary.

 

As far as a pan hard bracket Calmini made mine, but the holes were off about 1/16th of an inch. I drilled them out. This helps correct the angle so the vehicle doesn't try and pull to one side when flexing.

 

 

I am looking into doing a 6" overall suspension lift for my 1994 XE. 3" body and 3" lift. what difficulties beyond just installing the shocks/UCA's/Springs/Torsion bars are there?

 

:omg:

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So if i were to do say a 1" BL i wouldn't have to modify any brackets, lines etc? Because right now i only want to do 1" BL so i can later do a 2-3" suspension lift

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey everyone... I am chasing a set of 1" body blocks and a bit of information on who makes the best value for money suspension lift kit?

I live in Australia but freight out of the USA isn't a issue... Just need to be able to get on the web site and pay by credit card...

I used to have ironman torsion bars in my 720 and they where great, but as with anything there is a lot more on offer now...

 

It looks like I'm way late to drop in on this conversation but I have done a 3" suspension lift on my 1988 pathfinder. Personally I don't like body lifts, besides I have an automatic transmission so it makes it a bit more complicated and I don't want to deal with that.

 

Anyhow, I bought a kit from 4x4 parts that included longer coil springs and new upper "A" arms for $300. After doing the swap I had an alignment done on the front since the new "A" arms screwed it up and I worked with one of the mechanics at Firestone to use my torsion bars to there max without ruining the alignment. This gave it a really nice 3" lift but it was extremely limited. No articulation and things weren't working properly. So I ended up removing the sway bars, adding longer shocks and swapping out the stock tires for some 31's (cost me about $1000 for all of that) . This gave me amazing articulation and off road handling. But terrible on road performance, but that's ok for me. This isn't my daily driver.

 

It didn't take long (maybe 2 trips out to Anza Borrego)for the CV boots to tear or slip off the half-shaft from the flexing. I replaced the half shafts for the hell of it, and it happened again. O well. So in my opinion the only sound way to go is a solid axle swap for the front. The rear however performs without any issues.

 

 

Those are all the parts I replaced. The only thing I ever noticed being an issue is that the parking brake cable stops the rear axle from flexing at some point which is a big problem but only when flexed 18"+ from normal sitting position.

 

Overall this lift has gotten me about anywhere! Only thing I'm missing is some lockers and manual hubs!

 

I hope this helps anyone else who reads this!

Edited by WarthogWD21
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Ok... I am going to go with 2" body and suspension lifts... Still going to put UCA's in for reliability and movement range... 32" tyres should still fit...

 

Good choice, I had some issues with CV boots on my 3", I just lowered the torsion bars a little and replaced the boot with neo boots.

 

I am looking into doing a 6" overall suspension lift for my 1994 XE. 3" body and 3" lift. what difficulties beyond just installing the shocks/UCA's/Springs/Torsion bars are there?

 

:omg:

 

Rear coils are easy, loosen up the links a little on the axle. Remove shocks before jacking car up, the jack it up and replace the coils. The front is almost as easy, I jacked the rig up to about where it was gonna sit the pulled wheels and upper UCA's off. Replaced UCA's and Ball joints, then replace torsion bars and shocks.

 

So if i were to do say a 1" BL i wouldn't have to modify any brackets, lines etc? Because right now i only want to do 1" BL so i can later do a 2-3" suspension lift

You might as well do a two inch. The only things that will need to be moved for any body lift is bumpers.

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  • 2 years later...

It looks like I'm way late to drop in on this conversation but I have done a 3" suspension lift on my 1988 pathfinder. Personally I don't like body lifts, besides I have an automatic transmission so it makes it a bit more complicated and I don't want to deal with that.

 

Anyhow, I bought a kit from 4x4 parts that included longer coil springs and new upper "A" arms for $300. After doing the swap I had an alignment done on the front since the new "A" arms screwed it up and I worked with one of the mechanics at Firestone to use my torsion bars to there max without ruining the alignment. This gave it a really nice 3" lift but it was extremely limited. No articulation and things weren't working properly. So I ended up removing the sway bars, adding longer shocks and swapping out the stock tires for some 31's (cost me about $1000 for all of that) . This gave me amazing articulation and off road handling. But terrible on road performance, but that's ok for me. This isn't my daily driver.

 

It didn't take long (maybe 2 trips out to Anza Borrego)for the CV boots to tear or slip off the half-shaft from the flexing. I replaced the half shafts for the hell of it, and it happened again. O well. So in my opinion the only sound way to go is a solid axle swap for the front. The rear however performs without any issues.

 

 

Those are all the parts I replaced. The only thing I ever noticed being an issue is that the parking brake cable stops the rear axle from flexing at some point which is a big problem but only when flexed 18"+ from normal sitting position.

 

Overall this lift has gotten me about anywhere! Only thing I'm missing is some lockers and manual hubs!

 

I hope this helps anyone else who reads this!

I also removed my sway bar both front and rear, it got sketchy around 50-60 MPH so I put the rear back in and it helped.

The parking brake can be adjusted, but even after that I ripped right through the rubber hoops the cable is supposed to go through.

Remember to drop the hoop around the rear drive shaft when doing the body lift. There was no bracket for it in my kit so I just used longer bolts. I had alignment issues also and poor articulation until the sway bar was out and I replaced all the TRE's.

I recently cut all the IFS out and did a SAS because I was sick of dealing with the IFS issues, mostly steering. For weekend warriors and daily drivers IFS is fine and the cost to benefit ratio is great compared to a SAS. If the rig is old I would clean and paint the frame when you have everything apart. It looks clean and will help your rig last a while longer. The bumper brackets that came with the AC kit were wimpy so I welded a whole new get up front and back. I would suggest putting new CV boots on when you do the suspension lift just to start fresh. As for fender wall gap covers I just used a couple semi-truck mud flaps and some bolt head machine screws and cut to fit.

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I used semi mud flaps also on my 87 hardbody but I installed the bolts from the inside of the inner fenders sticking out, one washer and nut on the bolt to hold the bolt tight, than the rubber semi flap than a flat washer and another nut, this way if you want to remove the rubber for whatever reason, the bolts stay in place.

 

For the front bumper brackets I just doubled them up on each side, still flimsy but better than using one per side

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