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And about the headlight Washers. Those were never a option available for North America. Since I found out not that long ago I've been asking Aussies and Kiwi's to keep an eye out for a wrecked Terrano with the setup to steal/buy from and ship down here. I'm prompt with Paypal if you ever come across one. I'm very Jealous of you Turbo Diesel guys. North America got the Shaft for sure on our rigs. So many options were offered everywhere else but here.

Dowser, if I had known that you could have had mine, I ditched the headlight washers with my stock front bar not long ago, there are a few Terrano's being wrecked around town here at the moment.

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thanks guys.

I think the "white stuff" is oxidization. so yeah, I will have to sand/polish to get that stuff off.

I did order some "simple green extreme" to clean up everything else. and I guess i'll use some de-greaser that i have on everything first.

I also noticed i've gathered quite a bit of rust underneath since I've had my truck out east. I know the best way to remove it would be to take each part of and sand/paint it. but, i dont really want to go that route, as i have never dis-assembled everything before. maybe I will remove the parts that look easy enough to put back on, and sand/paint those, but for everything else, i was thinking about trying to "paint" on some rust remover. maybe mix it with some litium grease to get the consistency I want, paint it on everything, and then take it over to the car wash to pressure wash everything off. and eventually re-paint. what do you think? crazy idea? i think its worth a shot, i dont know how else I will get the liquid rust remover I got to stick on everything without removing each part and soaking it. anyways, its worth a shot, cant get any worse.

I got some fuel conditioner to clean up my fuel injectors, and some oil conditioner, its supposed to seal any leaks by causing the valves/gaskets to swell. we'll see how it works. figure it'll help until i get my truck into the garage.

got a wicked socket set at canadian tire yesterday. always great sales there, huh. 70% off from reg $260! Its got 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" socket sets, wrench set, torx head set, screwdriver set, allen key set, 3x locking pliers set, its huge! Still waiting for PB spray, so i hope my bolts arent to stuck onto my rear differential more than anything a breaker bar cant handle. today I plan to drain/re-fill it, and re-seal the gasket. hope that stops my leak back there. still waiting for my Hi Lift Jack I have ordered to do the front end, and drain/re-fill the transfer case. gonna flush the power steering and brake fluid also. I ordered a really cool power flushing kit for the brake fluid. check it out if your interested:

http://store.motiveproducts.com/single-adapter-bleeders-c16.aspx

I'll give a review after I test it.

I'm also thinking about removing the running boards. What do you all say? keep 'em or remove 'em?

And I have to take a lokk at my rear window, I think I need a new regulator.

So, I got a lot of work planned today, and I hope I'm a few steps closer to finishing up my maintenance list.

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well, i drained and filled my rear differential, but i realized I couldnt actually re-seal it until I get my jack. but after going to look at my rear differential again today, I dont see how the gasket would be causing the leak. scroll back to look at pics if your interested. a very small amount of gear oil seems to be leaking from the fill/drain plug bolts. has anyone ever experienced this? how did you fix it? from the searches I did, I didnt come up with anything. seems that most people have a leak from the gasket being worn. So, anyways, today I drained it, the oil was really dark blue, old, but there wasnt any metal in it, that I could see, so thats a good sign. then I cleaned the fill/drain plugs as best I could, and I think I found the problem, the threads were caked with sludgy gear oil. I dont think they were sealing the drain/fill holes properly, and were causing a small leak. I cleaned the threads up as best I could, but I had a very hard time getting everything out, even with an "oil-lifter" solution. I also cleaned up all the sludgy gear oil on the rear differential, and it looks much better. Now I should be able to see exactly where the leak is. My other question is: can I use some thread tape, like what plumbers use to seal threads? Or should I just get some new drain/fill plug bolts?

and the other good news is my front differential hasnt leaked a drop in days. I think i had oil all over everything from the guys doing a sloppy/messy oil change recently. but until I can jack it up and clean it up, I wont really know.

I got half way into my fuel filter change. and I cant get the dang filter removed from the pump. the filter wrench i bought is just a little to small. so i will have to get the right size, and try again tommorrow.

I'm also having trouble identifying my "air bleeder c*ck". I dont think I have one. but my manual says if I dont have one, then I should have a seperate "sedimentor", and i definently dont have one of those. I've only done this once before, with a friend who knew what he was doing, guess I didnt pay enough attention... managed to drain a ton of water from the old fuel filter though.

EDIT- i guess the computer deemed my "air bleeder ****" a bad word. thats what they call it in my manual though, hehehe.

teixeira- I was going to take off my running boards today, but man, my running boards are really on there. some bolts are easily accessed underneath, but I have some bolts attaching the running boards that I cant even access. they must be under the carpet inside the truck? starting to wonder if these running boards didnt come on the vehicle from the factory. they dont look to be added afterwards. maybe I'm missing something, but i thought it would be real easy to just un-bolt these things. but things are never as easy as they sound, are they...

the running boards themselves, seem to be mounted on something that "look" like rock sliders. I wonder if i should take the boards off, and leave the mounts on to act as cheap rock sliders until i can get the real deal? hard to explain, i'll get some pics up if i can ever get the boards off. I dont think I can remove the boards from the frame, without removing the whole she-bang all together first. their just screwed on, but i cant get at the screw heads, the angle is all wrong. even the bolts of the running board frame that I can access underneath, are really hard to get at. I cant even get at the top bolt. I have no idea how the were put on in the first place. or maybe i'm missing something...

Tommorrow I will go back at it...

Edited by shasdakota
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They can be welded to the chassis.... many do that to keep them really there, I know at least 2 that had to be cutted off because they were welded and rust behind it. But yeah, check under the carpet to be sure and doesn't take much time.

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teixeira- i think the brackets are welded on. and yes, the frame of the running boards is very rusted. but i think i could just pull the bolts if i can get access to them. havent tried going back at it yet.

I been very busy trying to sort out my white exhaust smoke when I use AC on a hot day. the reason I say it like that, is I cant reproduce it any other time. I had no idea that installing a head gasket, etc was such a big job, like i said, i'm just learning. the parts arent that much to replace in my engine, but it takes hours to install. I was looking at $1500 for a blown head gasket. i guess a lot of guys completey rebuild the engine when it needs a new head gasket, just so they dont have to do it again later. So i learned that I should get a pressure test done to see if I have any leaks. And everything held tight. they also looked for signs of oil or coolant being burned in my exhaust system, and didnt see any sign of it. they told me it looks good. and i got a tune-up, they didnt see anything wrong anywhere. its still a bit of a mystery to me and the mechanic had no idea what it could be with the description I gave him. he said if i was burning oil or coolant i would see it at start up when its cold, before anything gets a chance to swell into place. he was very confident i was not burning coolant. and since then i've been noticing other vehicles that are constantly spewing white/blue exhaust. and the i've seen some terribly smoking vehicles on you tube. mine never looked anything like that, and the engine runs great, never gets hot, and the coolant/oil level is good. I guess I will bring it back in the next time I see any white exhaust. So I was really happy to get the good news, because I thought i might be in all sorts of trouble.

If anyone has any insight as to what might cause this, please chime in. I've done a ton of reading on the subject, and everyone says its burning oil or coolant, but i'm not.

and i've fixed both front/rear differential leak, the plugs werent threading tight with all the gunky oil build up on them. since I've cleaned them, I havent had a drop lost.

Managed to pull my fuel filter off, boy it was stuck. and it was so dark brown inside. since i've changed it, i dont even see any black smoke when i punch the gas! I can completely lean my foot on the throttle, and the exhaust is clear!

tested my glow plugs too. there good. maybe the injector cleaner helped some also? all i know is there's a big difference since i've changed the air/fuel filters.

started trying to remove some rust by mixing rust remover with lithium grease, and it looks like it worked a little bit, today I will wash it off and see. will post pics if its done any good.

Still have a lot of flushing to do. but after that, my truck should be in good shape. i'm a little concerned about the white exhaust i saw. it was the only time I've seen it, but its still worrysome since everything points to burning coolant, and having a blown head gasket, eventhough the mechanic has ruled it out. I think it was the first time i used the AC this year when i saw the white exhaust smoke. since then, whenever i turn on the AC, i dont see anything. it was also a terribly hot day (around 95-100*F, with 100% humidity), but I looked at the temp gauge and it wasnt even close to hot. it was also right after an oil change. i read that if they over-filled the oil i might have some oil burning off, but burning oil is more blue, and this was definently white. I also read it may have been a worn out part that costs $10, (pcv vavle?) that may have been it, forget the name of it right now off the top of my head, but i had the guys check it, and all was good.

I'm stumped for now. so i will continue to monitor my coolant level and temp gauge. I could also get a "block tester" which tests for "exhaust hydrocarbon residues that mange to find their way into the coolant system either through leaking head gaskets or cracks in block or cylinder heads". basically it tests for any exhaust residues in the cooling system, and if it detects any, it means i have a leak somewhere, probably in my head gasket. but its $70, and i just did a pressure test that came back good. i'm trying not to waste anymore money. but this would give me some more peace of mind.

speaking of gauges, i want to add a volt/oil pressure/water temp gauge. havent looked into how difficult that is yet.

i've also confirmed my dual battery set up is factory and used just for starting. since then i've noticed the stock dual battery in a lot of Toyota diesel trucks, but not any Nissan's like mine. The other diesel Terrano pics I've seen only had 1 battery.... So i guess my truck is kinda unique.

and i NEED an oil filter re-location kit now that i plan to do all the oil changes myself. its crammed in there so tight, its a total pain in the neck to change the oil filter, almost need to jack it up just to change the oil. i found a thread on the subject of installing one on a '94 Pathy, but i havent read it yet. not sure where i want to move it, probably dont have a lot of choices, there's no spare space in my engine bay at all really.

and i guess i can start thinking about my body lift and 31's again. hope to get it done next month. at least the body lift.

any help on any of my truck issues is always welcomed. keep it coming guys. you've all been a ton of help, and this forum is just full of great info.

Thanks,

Josh

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saw some bluish exhaust again yesterday. not much, and it disapates into the air very quickly. from what i described to my mechanic, he thought it might be the oil seal on my turbo. he doesnt think its in my engine, he explained why, but i cant remember, it was to complicated and we were talking about to many things. i'm going to check my turbo oil seal on Friday. and the search continues for the mysterious exhaust trouble i have... good news is i dont think i'm burning coolant.

I couldnt find 1 single thread on the topic of a Nissan TD27T with a blown head gasket anywhere on the internet. found lots of threads on toyota BHG's. and my JDM parts dealer doesnt even stock a head gasket for the TD27T, i would have to special order it, they've never even sold one. so i really hope i'm not the first person to experience a BHG in a TD27T. i've got my fingers crossed. i cant afford $1500+ engine work right now. although it would be a lot less than the repair costs that would occur if i blew my engine. the heat isnt rising whatsoever though, so i dont think i have any engine trouble. and i'm not loosing fluids, and the fluids arent mixing. and it passed a pressure test.

i was thinking about getting a valve job sometime before 125,000km/70,000 miles, and then i hope they can take a look at the condition of my engine. or i could do a leak down test, that should tell me a lot about the health of my engine.

and i noticed a bit of burning fuel yesterday, so i guess the new air/fuel filter didnt solve all my problems with that. but its soooo much better. all the glow chargers are working, so i guess its an injector problem? giving to much fuel? or maybe its something else? its not my main priority right now.

i'm going to see what my ECU computer tells me this weekend. maybe it will point me in the correct direction to these problems?

i've got another question for you guys though:

my truck has after market fog lights installed. the lights broke, but their weird in correctly, and the switch works. so can i just replace the lights and wire the new ones into the existing wiring? do i have to make sure the watts of the old lights and new lights are the same?

and my other question: they were wired for fog lights, do i have to replace them with fog lights, or could i replace them with regular lights?

what do you guys prefer for the trail? which brand? which size/watts?

I was thinking about either these KC 130 watt long range lights:

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/black-long-range-slimlite-system-p-2306.html

or these KC 100 watt driving lights:

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/black-driving-slimlite-system-p-2312.html

which do you guys think are better for trail use? obviously the long range lights will light up a further distance, but by "driving lights" do they mean the lights that are always on in your vehicle even during daylight? or are they just less bright than the long range lights?

And I've come to the conclusion the light i have mounted at an angle by my gas tank must be the previous owners attempt at installing a back-up light. i think i will re-mount it so that it points straight back, and finish wiring it up and add a switch for it.

i tried removing some rust from the under carriage by mixing rust remover with lithium grease, so it would stick better, and the results wrent so bad. for the amount of effort/time i put into it (about 10mins), i got a lot of rust off. I started on my rear differential, and it didnt get all the rust off, but it looks a lot better, i can see a lot more paint, and a lot less rust, but it didnt soak in deep/strong enough to really remove all of the rust. i will keep working at it. maybe rust remover spray would work better?

i'm not sure hoe many people are even redaing this thread anymore, i know its not very exciting, but i dont want to start a new thread everytime i have a problem/question. for now i will keep my posts regarding my vehicle issues confined here.

thanks for all your help,

josh

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Did you check the thermostat? do you even have it? The engine doesn't warm up at all? if not, then you don't have that or it is broken in that case you should get one and check the engine or head gasket because one reason to take the thermostat out is to keep the engine cool and hide a previous overheat.

It's not normal to blow head gasket it takes a lot, but can happen if the owner doesn't care at all and is REALLY looking the other way.

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thanks for trying to help teixeira.

i took my truck into the garage, and apparently the problem is carbon build in the intake manifold, and internals. I can use a cleaning product that goes into the crankcase to try and clean the internals, and i want to hand clean the intake manifold. i'm just having some trouble removing the intake manifold. i cant get access to some of the bolt heads. i created another thread about it in the '90-'95 WD-21 forum.

and my mechanic also explained the build up occurs when the PCV system re-circulates exhaust fumes back through my air filter housing and into my intake manifold for re-burning. the PCV exhaust fumes pick up oily residues and other crap, and along the way, and that gets everything clogged up. he said i have 2 options. dis-connect the PCV venting hose that leads to my air filter housing, and vent the PCV fumes directly into the atmosphere and put a PCV fume filter on the end of the hose OR make/buy a air/oil seperator tank that will clean up the PCV fumes, seperate the oil and other crap, and then re-route the cleaner air back to my air filter hosuing and onto my intake manifold just like before.

so, i dis-connected that PCV vent hose, and i saw an amazing difference. I dont have any black or blue smoke at all, even when i really push the throttle. but, when the engine warms up, i start to see some black smoke, probably from all the carbon build up. so, i need to give everything a good clean, and then hook up my seperator tank i ordered, and I shouldnt have any more build up happening.

I really like this mod. and I recomend anyone do it, especially if they are experiencing any problems in this area.

i'll get some pictures up later.

this is the seperator tank I ordered:

 

RT-OCT-C-RD-1.gif

 

And this is a PCV filter made by K&N. but they arent actually street legal if you live somewhere with emission laws, and i heard they clog up fast.

http://www.knfilters.com/vent.htm

 

AND, I'm very happy to report I've picked up these 31" Mickey Thompson MTZ's on 4Runner rims, for $650. Tires are at 85% tread, and they were well taken care of. i got 'em off a mechanic who took good care of them, kept them in his garage, and rotated them every 5000km/3000mi. I'm going to paint the rims black. and I got a 3" body lift kit from 4x4parts.com in the mail! and i'll actually get it because it was shipped by UPS. (Canada Post is on strike here). I'm very excited to start this project!

 

IMG_3777.jpg

 

And I recently picked up a Hi Lift Jack. I wanted a way to attach to my truck, particularily the rear tire carrier. so i started doing research, and i realized it was a fairly common place to keep the Hi Lift, but it seemed like everyone was making their own attachment system. I was going to go this route, until I came across this product made by Hi Lift. they're adjustable tube mounts. you can get them for 1-2" tubes and 2-3" tubes. I know its not hard to make your own, but for anyone interested, you can also buy them:

 

G_32348G_CL_1.jpg

 

All for now guys.

Edited by shasdakota
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