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Can you see a part # on the oil filter that's on it? If so write it down and go to your favorite parts store and have them cross reference it to their in stock numbers... most can do it, most just don't want to.

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nunya- yep, got the part #, but everywhere i've asked to order one for me say they cant do it. its not a big deal, i can still find them in Canada, just be a bit easier to pick it up in town is all. maybe someone form my area will chime in.

teixeira- interesting what you say about how Nissan should be able to look up my VIN. Not really surprised, because i've found the guys at my Nissan dealer to be very un-helpful, and I've had other difficulties with them also. Thanks a ton for the link! looks like just the man i need to speak with. So i've been reading that adding a trans cooler is a good idea, have you added one to your diesel? Which model did you go with?

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Beautiful rig man! And welcome. But please, for the love of all that is holy, remove those horrible wind blocks around your windows! It's great that you got a diesel. I've searched high and low for any half decent diesel Terrano in Germany and it's impossible.

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HydroCeramics- thanks for the welcome man. its funny you mention those wind shields around my windows, i dont like them either, and i actually cracked a couple of them trying to strap stuff to the roof and routing a cord through the windows (I know I need a roof rack). So now they make noise on the highway, and their ugly/un-functional. Their coming off soon.

 

Teixeira- great terrano! love the blue led's! i havent gone through all your thread yet cause i'm in sort of a rush, but i will. my bad about you having a manual, guess I didnt realize. think i will just go ahead and order a B&L trans cooler, figure I cant go wrong with that brand. i'll just go check how much room i have exactly.

 

If anyone has ever had to remove anything really stuck on with automotive adhesive, please chime in. I read I can use

3M adhesive remover or BG 244 injector cleaner (not sure why). I read i should try to slide a piece of dental floss between the wind shields and my door, and maybe heat it up first with a hair drier (or wait for a real hot day), then use the adhesive remover to get all the goo off. sounds pretty straight forward, more just wondering about which brand adhesive remover works best and doesnt damage auto paint. If anyone has any first hand experience, pass it along please.

Going to the Nissan dealer this morning to order some parts. got to get a bunch of random plastic interior parts, a lot of mine have cracked/snapped from the sun i guess. and i hope to get the parts i need for my passenger door handle and drivers door lock. they told me i needed the whole new electrical master control from a RHD Terrano to fix my drivers door lock, but I had the door panel off last night, and realized i dont have an electrical problem at all. I compared my broken drivers side door lock to my passenger side door, and i can see a piece that should be connected is just broken off and dangling. hard to explain, I'm far from a mechanic, but it must be the problem. and it's a much cheaper part to replace and much easier to find. And I figured out which part i need for my passenger door handle. It makes me wonder if Nissan even checked to confirm which parts I exactly needed. I dont think they did. And once again, that makes another questionable experience with my Nissan dealer. not to mention I realized the lock cylinder they replaced 3 months ago, which i havent even been able to use because my door locking mechanism is still broken, is now broken again also. Gonna bring it up today, hope they stand behind their work, but i dont have high hopes. now that i have my service manuals i will definently be trying to do all these repairs myself. I cant stand the way the door panels are held on, with those cheap plastic rivets held behind a cardboard frame. Its impossible to take off without ripping some of that cardboard and damaging some of those rivets, no matter how careful you are. I think i'm going to tap the holes that the rivets go in, and use bolts instead of the rivets for easy door panel removal incase i ever have to do any more repairs (likely in a older vehicle). And I managed to figure out what was wrong with my brake lights. I was in for a oil change/fluid check the other day, and they noticed my brakes were out (both of them). it wasnt the bulb, we checked. so they told me it was either the switch behind the brake pedal, or an electrical problem. It took me 2 days to think, "hey, i wonder about the fuse?", and sure enough, it was just my fuse. nice easy fix, i love when that happens, but i'm not impressed the professionals didnt think of that before sending me out for electrical work, they sent me to their friends garage, luckily i didnt go. I really wish i had a trustworthy mechanic I liked. but I figure so does most the rest of the world. Hard to come by i think....

Gonna get this Terrano up to speed one way or another...

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nunya- yep, got the part #, but everywhere i've asked to order one for me say they cant do it. its not a big deal, i can still find them in Canada, just be a bit easier to pick it up in town is all. maybe someone form my area will chime in.

teixeira- interesting what you say about how Nissan should be able to look up my VIN. Not really surprised, because i've found the guys at my Nissan dealer to be very un-helpful, and I've had other difficulties with them also. Thanks a ton for the link! looks like just the man i need to speak with. So i've been reading that adding a trans cooler is a good idea, have you added one to your diesel? Which model did you go with?

What is the oil filter part # and what brand is it. Maybe someone here could point you in the right direction on where to get one.

 

HydroCeramics- thanks for the welcome man. its funny you mention those wind shields around my windows, i dont like them either, and i actually cracked a couple of them trying to strap stuff to the roof and routing a cord through the windows (I know I need a roof rack). So now they make noise on the highway, and their ugly/un-functional. Their coming off soon.

 

Teixeira- great terrano! love the blue led's! i havent gone through all your thread yet cause i'm in sort of a rush, but i will. my bad about you having a manual, guess I didnt realize. think i will just go ahead and order a B&L trans cooler, figure I cant go wrong with that brand. i'll just go check how much room i have exactly.

 

If anyone has ever had to remove anything really stuck on with automotive adhesive, please chime in. I read I can use

3M adhesive remover or BG 244 injector cleaner (not sure why). I read i should try to slide a piece of dental floss between the wind shields and my door, and maybe heat it up first with a hair drier (or wait for a real hot day), then use the adhesive remover to get all the goo off. sounds pretty straight forward, more just wondering about which brand adhesive remover works best and doesnt damage auto paint. If anyone has any first hand experience, pass it along please.

Going to the Nissan dealer this morning to order some parts. got to get a bunch of random plastic interior parts, a lot of mine have cracked/snapped from the sun i guess. and i hope to get the parts i need for my passenger door handle and drivers door lock. they told me i needed the whole new electrical master control from a RHD Terrano to fix my drivers door lock, but I had the door panel off last night, and realized i dont have an electrical problem at all. I compared my broken drivers side door lock to my passenger side door, and i can see a piece that should be connected is just broken off and dangling. hard to explain, I'm far from a mechanic, but it must be the problem. and it's a much cheaper part to replace and much easier to find. And I figured out which part i need for my passenger door handle. It makes me wonder if Nissan even checked to confirm which parts I exactly needed. I dont think they did. And once again, that makes another questionable experience with my Nissan dealer. not to mention I realized the lock cylinder they replaced 3 months ago, which i havent even been able to use because my door locking mechanism is still broken, is now broken again also. Gonna bring it up today, hope they stand behind their work, but i dont have high hopes. now that i have my service manuals i will definently be trying to do all these repairs myself. I cant stand the way the door panels are held on, with those cheap plastic rivets held behind a cardboard frame. Its impossible to take off without ripping some of that cardboard and damaging some of those rivets, no matter how careful you are. I think i'm going to tap the holes that the rivets go in, and use bolts instead of the rivets for easy door panel removal incase i ever have to do any more repairs (likely in a older vehicle). And I managed to figure out what was wrong with my brake lights. I was in for a oil change/fluid check the other day, and they noticed my brakes were out (both of them). it wasnt the bulb, we checked. so they told me it was either the switch behind the brake pedal, or an electrical problem. It took me 2 days to think, "hey, i wonder about the fuse?", and sure enough, it was just my fuse. nice easy fix, i love when that happens, but i'm not impressed the professionals didnt think of that before sending me out for electrical work, they sent me to their friends garage, luckily i didnt go. I really wish i had a trustworthy mechanic I liked. but I figure so does most the rest of the world. Hard to come by i think....

Gonna get this Terrano up to speed one way or another...

I have a parts truck if you need some interior pieces but it is in gray and I don't know what color yours is...

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If anyone has ever had to remove anything really stuck on with automotive adhesive, please chime in. I read I can use

3M adhesive remover or BG 244 injector cleaner (not sure why).

WD-40 is good to use for removing stickers and such so you might want to start there. Also, naptha is really good for desolving adhesive and tar so that would be another thing to try. Naptha=zippo lighter fluid... ;)

 

B

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Take some photos of the interior, ou and engine bay, I'm curious to see a Diesel with automatic transmition, although I don't like automatics (sorry to say).

 

To remove the adhesive, after the sticker, you can also try a pencil rubber and rubb it off like if it was on papper and doesn't damage the paint at all, it's a great technic.

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Hi again guys,

 

Thanks all for the great tips on removing the wind shields....

 

Adamzan- the oil Filter I've been buying is a brand named Sakura- Oil Filter C-1835. on the package it say's "interchangeable with Z 416". I think there are other brands that also work with the TD27T engine though.

As far as your parts truck goes, my interior is maroon (dark red). But honestly I dont think I would mind if there was some grey pieces in there. I need all 3 vents, drivers side, middle, and passenger side, and if I can get all 3 from you, I dont think the color mis-match will look so bad. let me know what you want for them. I could probably use some more parts also, so I'll keep you posted. I just have to go confirm what I need exactly.

 

What does the rest of you think? Is it sacreligious to use 2 different interior colored parts?

 

Teixeira- I will take some pics for you of my engine bay soon. I've been meaning to get some new shots of my truck anyways. I like manuals also, at least in cars I do, they're fun for driving, but honestly in my Terrano, I dont think I really care whether its auto or manual. When I first got the vehicle I was glad it wasnt manual, so I wouldnt have to learn to shift with my left hand, but I got used to everything really fast, and it probably wouldnt be so hard learning to shift with my left. the windshield wipers and signal light flickers are opposite than those of N.American vehicles, that was harder to get used to than anything, always turning on my wipers whenever I wanted to signal...

 

So, the last time I was here, I posted that I was on my way to my local Nissan dealer to try and order the parts I needed to fix my passenger door handle and drivers door lock assembly. The good news is I was able to order the parts I needed, and I put them in myself yesterday, and I'm happy to report I now have locking doors, and a working passenger door handle! I'm quite proud of myself because it wasnt easy, and I couldnt get the lock assembly out of the door panel completely ( I was worried about getting it back in there correctly), so I was pretty much working blind, just feeling around the parts with my fingers. The downside to this, is I found out when I was in at Nissan 3 months ago to fix my drivers door lock assembly and install a lock cylinder, and I got charged $100 to install the lock cylinder and was told they couldnt complete the job until I ordered a whole new lock assembly, a $120 part, (This was before I had my service manual, and I just wanted it fixed fast, so i took it in to pay for it to get fixed quickly), was a lie. I didnt need any other parts to fix my lock assembly, a plastic peice had become dis-engaged from the lock assembly, and I just had to figure it out and snap it into place. This is just something else to add to the long list of problems I've had at my Nissan dealer. Although, all in all, I'm glad I've finally found out I cant trust these guys and need to find a new garage.

And to top it off, check this out. After I had ordered the parts I needed, I was in the parking lot putting my door panels back on, when this mechanic comes out of nowhere, gets right in my face and say's something like "man, your truck is a piece of @!*%, it's falling apart, the doors dont work...". I was just shocked, I couldnt believe the nerve of this guy. My first instinct was to just knock his teeth out, but I knew my martial arts/boxing coach wouldnt be happy with me if I did that, plus I wouldnt be surprised if he called the cops on me, and they had all my personal info already. So instead I just tore him up verbally, questioned his ability as a mechanic, his intelligence level in general, and then i got to make fun of his truck, because guess what, he doesnt even have one. anyways, all that is besides the point. This was the mechanic who was obviously working on my doors last time I had my truck in or else he wouldnt have known what some of the problems were. At first I wasnt going to mention anything here, but I've decided anyone who lives in Toronto should know. Some of the mechanics at this place have no respect for your property, and will try and rip you off. And since everyone loves their Pathfinders/Terrano's here, I figured nobody wants a guy like that working on their truck. So if anyone wants to know where I've experienced these problems, just ask. I spoke with the manager after this all happened, I wanted to let him know he had a mechanic working for him that was costing him business. The manager knew I needed to order other parts, and get more service in the future, and I told him he wouldnt be seeing anymore of my cash. When I returned to pick up the parts I ordered a couple days later, the manager apologized to me, sort of, he said it wouldnt happen again, but i told him that wasnt good enough. I cant leave my truck at his garage and trust them to fix the problem and be honest with me, not to mention i dont want that mechanic working anywhere near my truck. I would rather drive out of my way to go to another Nissan dealer than go back to this place.

If anyone can tell me what Nissan dealer they've had the best luck with in the GTA area, please let me know. I've heard the Milton location is good. Or if anyone knows of another garage in the Toronto/GTA area that will service diesel vehicles, I'd be interested in that info as well. Thanks in advance guys.

On a side note, turns out Nissan wasnt being lazy/stubborn about my part #'s, I dont think Nissan Canada can actually get my part #'s for my Nissan Terrano, like some guys thought. I asked a member here who deals with Nissan parts, and he told me the same thing, that he cant get part #'s for the Terrano.

Since then, I've actually got a list of part #'s for the Nssan Terrano, but I cant really do anything with them, I dont know where to order any of these parts. Maybe Australia? I could try calling a Nissan dealer in Australia I guess, and see if they would ship me Terrano parts to Canada? If anyone wants a list of Terrano part #'s, here's the link:

http://nissan4u.com/parts/terrano/el_wd21/1991_11/type_5/

 

EDIT- Found out where I can get some after market parts for the Nissan Terrano:

http://www.sportcompactonly.com/site-map.htm

Looks like I'll be able to get everything I need one way or another....

 

So, my next priority for my Terrano is to fix the RH rear window, it wont stay up. the motor works, i can hear it running when i work the botton. I was told I needed a whole new regulator, but now I'm begining to question this. I wonder if the window just fell off the tracks or something. So i need to take my back door panels off and try and see if I can figure out whats going wrong. I wish the Hayne's service manual had more detailed drawings of these components. And I also have to replace the lock on my rear gate, I think. It used to work, but one day it seemed to have gotten stuck in the closed position, and it wasnt able to fully close because the lock mechanism would slam into the little bar thats supposed to be used to lock the gate shut. (hard to explain). anyways, I tried to make the lock return to it's "open" position, but it just wont budge. I tried wd40. it just seems locked closed somehow. I've tried manipulating it with the gate switch and my key, but that doesnt help either.

And I'm going to pick up a B&M Trans Cooler very soon. Plus I have a K&N Air Filter and a new Fuel Filter coming in the mail.

And, what I'm mostly looking forward to, is my first "fun" project I'll be doing on my truck. Which is installing a 2" or 3" body lift kit. I havent decided exactly which. I think I will go with the 2" kit, just so I dont have to mess with the shifter getting into 4Lo. My goal is to fit 31"x10.5"xR15 tires on there, so I dont think I need the 3" kit. I dont plan to run any larger tires until I do a SAS, which will be a long ways off. This will be the first time I've installed a body lift kit, or even helped with one. I'm far from a mechanic, but after reading the install directions about 100 times, it sounds a little easier each time, and I think it's something I will be capable of. I've found a lot of great information on the site here which will definently be a big help. Originally I was going to pay for it to be installed, but the 2 garages I've contacted havent gotten back to me, and I dont want to twist there arm to give them my money. I guess they dont need the business. And I've estimated they will charge anywhere from $400-$900, which is way to much for me. I could upgrade my steering, among other things, for the same price if I did the install myself, and I would rather learn something new about my truck anyways, I just wish I had 1 more set of hands to help, but I dont. If I get stuck anywhere, I hope to ask for some help here. The only thing's I'm a little confused about right now, and I cant find the answer to, is the 2 rear body bolts on a 1990-1995 Nissan Pathfinder. Am I right in presuming I have to cut through the floor to remove the 2 rear captive bolts, like that shown here:

 

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc110/zyklus/Rearbodybolt010.jpg

 

There's no other way? I read through this thread (where i got that image):

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325

and at the end, "unccpathfinder", mentioned that if you get the correct bolts, you dont have to do any cutting. he say's to contact Rugged Rocks, so thats what I will do, I'm just wondering if anyone has actually done this?

And I'm also wondering if anyone can explain this picture to me:

 

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc110/zyklus/Truck002.jpg

 

It's regarding the 2 middle body bolts with captive nuts. Why has he punched through the floor? because he didnt order the kit that came with the correct size bolts, and tried using his own, which were to long?

Sorry if anyone finds these silly questions. Like I said, I've never installed a body lift before, and I'm just trying to figure out what's going on before I start. If anyone has anymore good links for installing a 2" body lift in a 1991 Nissan Pathfinder/Terrano, please pass it along. Yes, I did a search, and bookmarked everything that applied to me, but the only really detailed thread I came across was the one I linked to. So if anyone knows of any other detailed threads here or anywhere else, I would appreciate it.

 

Thanks again guys for everyone who's helped me this far. I will definently get some new pictures up soon.

Josh

Edited by shasdakota
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Ok so according to rock auto, the Wix part # for the TD27 is WL7155, you should be able to pick one up at any NAPA or benson autoparts.

 

WIX Part # WL7155 Thread Size: UNF 1''-12; Outer Diameter [mm]: 94; Valve Type: Pressure-limiting Valve; Height [mm]: 133; Filter Type: Screw-on Filter; With one anti-return valve
Edited by adamzan
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Hi guys.

 

Adamzan- Thanks for that part #, I havent checked at Napa yet. I also sent you a PM regarding parts,

 

Texeira- Here are those engine bay pics...

 

IMG_3728.jpg

 

IMG_3727.jpg

 

IMG_3726.jpg

 

IMG_3725.jpg

 

And I got in my new K&N Air Filter. Boy was the last one in rough shape! Hope this contributes to clearing up my air/fuel ratio problem.

 

IMG_3701.jpg

 

And I got the dang ugly, cracked, faded pink and purple wind shields off. Here's some new shot's of my truck:

 

IMG_3696.jpg

 

IMG_3697.jpg

 

IMG_3698.jpg

 

But unfortunately those wind shield werent glued on with the type of adhesive I thought. Instead they used that kind of sticky foam tape to secure the wind shields. It's really stuck on there. I got some "goo gone", but I think I'm going to need something stronger. And I wasnt able to slide dental floss inbetween the plastic wind shields and my door like I read I would be able to. I tried double it up as much as I could, but it would still just snap immediately. Instead I just had to pry up the plastic wind shields with my hands, and cut the foam tape apart with a knife. They came off easy enough, but the hard part will deffinently be removing the leftovers from that foam tape. Here's a pic:

 

IMG_3729.jpg

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Unfortunately while I had my head under my truck today, I noticed my rear differential is leaking, or rather seeping gear oil, from what appears to be the fill/drain plugs. I did some research, and if that is really the problem, it doesnt sound like such a bad fix. just seal the cover with RTV and replace the drain plugs I guess? Not exactly sure, I havent ever had to do any repairs down there before. I just hope it's not actually something worse. Here's some pics if anyone wants to help give any input.

 

IMG_3708.jpg

 

IMG_3709.jpg

 

IMG_3711.jpg

 

So then I went to go have a look at my front differential, and sure enough, it looks like the gear oil is leaking from drain/fill plug holes also. I couldnt see very well, or take very good pics under here, so I will have to wait until I jack it up to have a better look. The front is leaking more than the rear. the front actually had gear oil droplets about to drop, and the rear looked more like it was just seeping. I put down some clean cardboard so I can tell how bad the leaks are.

 

IMG_3723.jpg

 

IMG_3714.jpg

 

IMG_3715.jpg

 

And I noticed what appeared to be some oil on the bell housing? Not exactly sure on the correct term. I have no idea if something is leaking or something is dripping onto it. I will have to wait until I jack it up to have a better look. If anyone has any idea as to what this might be, please chime in.

And I was just in for an oil change just a few days ago, and they didnt say anything about any of this. Its a real kick in the butt to stop being so lazy and start doing everything I can myself. You really cant count on anyone else.

 

IMG_3721.jpg

 

IMG_3720.jpg

 

So it looks like I will have to make these repairs before I do the body lift. I keep reading about how the 2" body lift kit is easier to install than the 3" kit on the WD21, but I contacted 4x4parts.com, and they said it's exactly the same amount of work. They said I would still have to extend the shifter to get into 4Lo. So I guess I will go with the 3" kit if it isnt anymore work. I cant wait to do something fun, and get some 31's with steelies on my truck!

 

It's also time for me to do a complete fluid change/flush. Everything. I've been reading all about what I have to do, and I've found a ton of great information on this site and others, I cant wait to start! I'm gonna have to go for a shopping spree at crappy tire! This will really help me get to know my truck, as all I have ever done before is a oil change. So I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who's contributed information to this site, it's a great resource!

 

I also read I should change the water pump and timing belt around 100,000km/60,000 miles. I still dont have my engine manual, it's in the mail, so I cant confirm what it says, but from my research on-line, i read that my TD27T engine doesnt have a timing belt, but a timing chain, and timing chains dont need to be replaced. I will have to do more research to confirm this. And I also found out that the water pump is actually hard to come by for my 1991 TD27T. I cant find any on-line. I found 1 for a 1992 TD27/TD27T engine on Ebay for $150, really good price, so if anyone has a 1992 TD27, you might want to grab this water pump while you can find one. I read they normally go between $200-$300. Here's the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NISSAN-NAVARA-NEW-TD27-TD27T-QD32-DIESEL-WATER-PUMP-/390315209708?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae09973ec

 

After I fix my differential leaks, change/flush all my fluids, change my fuel filter, and check my glow chargers, I was going to try and find a diesel service place that will just do my engine and everything else a once over to make sure nothing else needs attention that I missed. If anyone can think of any other routine maintenance I should be doing around 100,000 km/60,000 miles, or any other time, please let me know.

Thanks guys,

Josh

Edited by shasdakota
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Nice pics, looks like a mirror in some point... but the dual battery? what is the second for, do you know yet?

 

As for the engine, you don't have a timing belt, you are correct it's a chain that doesn't need to be changed. As for the 100.000 kms maintenance it's a normal one.

But there is some issues to be solved so you have a fare share of maintenance to do, good luck. Sorry I can't help much, but I don't really know mechanics, all I can say is that mine has 220.000kms (not much) own it since 150.000kms (10 years ago) and the only thing I changed, on the engine bay, was the clutch pump that was still the stock one.

 

If I were you, and this is just an opinion, I would hold any project of body lift and tires just yet, first get all those small issues done, speacially the oil leaks.

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The only thing's I'm a little confused about right now, and I cant find the answer to, is the 2 rear body bolts on a 1990-1995 Nissan Pathfinder. Am I right in presuming I have to cut through the floor to remove the 2 rear captive bolts, like that shown here:

 

http://i217.photobuc...bodybolt010.jpg

 

There's no other way? I read through this thread (where i got that image):

http://npora.ipbhost...?showtopic=5325

and at the end, "unccpathfinder", mentioned that if you get the correct bolts, you dont have to do any cutting. he say's to contact Rugged Rocks, so thats what I will do, I'm just wondering if anyone has actually done this?

And I'm also wondering if anyone can explain this picture to me:

 

http://i217.photobuc...us/Truck002.jpg

 

It's regarding the 2 middle body bolts with captive nuts. Why has he punched through the floor? because he didnt order the kit that came with the correct size bolts, and tried using his own, which were to long?

Sorry if anyone finds these silly questions. Like I said, I've never installed a body lift before, and I'm just trying to figure out what's going on before I start. If anyone has anymore good links for installing a 2" body lift in a 1991 Nissan Pathfinder/Terrano, please pass it along.

 

Howdy there!! You don't have to cut through the back to get at the captive nut if the bolt unscrews properly, but in my case the captive nut broke loose from the spot welds holding it in place so I couldn't remove the bolt any other way. It's got nothing to do with the right bolt... :shrug:

 

I installed a 2" lift kit, uninstalled, from a member here and installed it. Those were the two bolts that were too long, but I believe all the bolts were the same length as the 3" lift, just the pucks were 1" shorter. All the other bolts have sufficient clearance so the extra length doesn't matter.

 

A 2" lift is slightly easier to install as you don't have to put an extension on the fuel filler tube, drop the radiator (although many don't anyway), stretch lines and wires as far, etc. Little things but it's all more work. The fundamental job is the same; unbolt the body from the frame, jack it up, put in spacers and bolt it back down.:aok:

The hardbody transfer case shifter swap works better with a 2" lift as it is what the hardbody has.

 

The real question is how much lift do you want? I only wanted a 2" lift as I'm not trying to put on the biggest tires possible. It is my daily driver and I run 31" tires with sway bars, a 2" suspension lift and a 2" body lift and it has great road manners while being quite versatile. I'm building an expedition rig, not a maximum lift/flex rock crawler. :shrug:

 

Truck-signature.jpg

 

B

 

P.S. ARB stopped making the bumper for a pathy, but still makes it for a hardbody, just that it is 2" taller... ;)

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texeira- the dual batteries are just for starting. I was under the impression all TD27T diesels used 2 batts, but I guess only the automatic transmission does? I will have to research it some more. At first I thought I was going to be able to boost myself, but that isnt the case.

Absolutely, I plan to fix all my probs before doing the body lift. We're on the same page there.

 

precise 1- thanks for the reply! tons of help! I got it now. I dont plan on building a rock crawler either, more of an overland expedition rig like your thinking. At first from my research, I was reading all about the steering issues after a suspension lift that pathfinder owners are always talking about. I was under the impression I would have to do a SAS to have a susp lift and reliable steering, but as I read more, it appears if I change my centerlink to the hoohaa one from grassroots, and upgrade everything else as well, i wont have any steering problems with a 3" susp lift. And since I'm not building a rock crawler, this is the route i will probably go, since I dont need tons of lift either. For now I just want to fit 31x10.5xR15 a/t tires and 7x15 steel wheels. After I upgrade the steering and do a 3" suspension lift i will probably try and fit 33x12.5xR15 m/t or at least 32x11.5xR15 m/t. I'm still having trouble deciding between a 2" or 3" body lift. If their the same amount of work, part of me thinks I should do the 3" kit, but since the transfer case shifter swap fits better with a 2" body lift, maybe I should stick with that. Weird thing is the 2" kit is $30 more than the 3" kit.

 

As for my leaking differentials, I plan to have a better look at it today. I have to go buy a jack and jack stands, a breaker bar and a torque wrench, and all the fluids/rtv I need.

I had clean cardboard down overnight, and this morning the drip appeared very minimal. 1 small drop from both the front and back stained the cardboard.

And, I thought of something that may have caused all the oil around the front differential. I was just in for an oil change a few days ago, and I wonder if they were really messy and spilled oil all over everything while draining the oil pan, or maybe my oil pan has a leak? although i dont seem to be loosing any oil. not much if anything anyways. I plan to reseal with RTV, clean everything up, have a look inside, and re-fill. I read it may also be my pinion seal, but I'm not exactly sure how to tell if it is or not.

 

I came across a rear differential cover from Rocky Road, and it says it fits pathfinders through 2004, so I guess it should fit mine? Has anyone ever tried one of these:

http://www.rocky-road.com/diffguard.html

 

And I found a water pump for my truck, in Canada to! good price, $130, so i think I should get it, because I read they will eventually go around this time. I will have a look at my old one when I flush/change my cooling system.

 

EDIT- About my air/fuel ratio problems, since I replaced my air filter yesterday, I've been punching the gas pedal to see if there's any difference in the black smog I'm creating, and now there's a major difference! I never thought it would be this big of change. I can still see some black smoke when I really punch the gas, but it's much, much less. I used to see black smoke anytime I punched the gas, even just accelerating from a red light, and it was like a cloud, now its more like a trail of smoke, and only when I'm really accelerating to pass someone. And I still have to replace my fuel filter and test my glow chargers!

 

Time to get to work!

 

Thanks again for all the help guys.

Josh

Edited by shasdakota
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You don't need the second battery, that is for something else my guess is something that it had or the unfinished job of the previous owner. :scratchhead:

 

As for the smoke, we have many diesel cars and one way to tell that the owner doesn't do the needed maintenance on his car is from the black smoke. It's a Diesel thing. :ph33r:

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teixeira- interesting. so you think the previous owners were trying to install a dual battery for lights and such? They seem connected. when 1 batt is dead my truck wont start. I know this because I just replaced 1 of the original japanese batteries, it was almost 20 years old! I had 1 new batt, and as soon as i swapped the other old batt, my truck started just fine again, better than ever actually, with 2 new batts. I'll have to look into it after I finish up everything else I need to do. I heard some diesels use 2 batts, thats why i thought it was supposed to be that way, and it looks like they fit just perfectly in my truck, like they were supposed to be there. they both have factory nissan battery covers...

Edited by shasdakota
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Well it's the first time I hear about a dual battery on a Diesel car... except when you have winch, more lights, air compressor, etc. then you need the second to wire all that like Kiwipete did, check it out you really will like to see what he than with it -> http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22195&st=120

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texiera- yeah thats sweet, i came across that kiwi petes dual batt set up before...

its usually the bigger diesels trucks that have 2 batts. I have a class 1 (18 wheeler) license, thats how I know...

i asked the guys at a garage once before also, and they said it was just for starting, reffering to my truck...

 

On a side note-

Does anyone know how I can tell the size of my head gasket size? There's 3 different sizes for my truck, and i cant seem to figure out what size I have. I dont see any specs in my manual. google search hasnt turned up anything yet either, but i'll keep looking.

 

EDIT- looks like i spoke to soon, found out how to identify my head gasket size in my manual. imagine that...

 

Just realized i may be burning some coolant... bummer. and burning oil. ordered a turbo gasket kit, and now i'm trying to find a head gasket, valve seals, piston rings , and a pcv valve for my truck...

also ordered a V belt kit, and a new water pump. and today i got a trans cooler.

and my maintenance list keeps getting longer. good news is i found a place that will service my diesel truck after i take care of everything i can do myself. and i have a pretty big list of things i want the mechanic to look at also. not sure if i'll ever get around to the body lift... just kidding. but it's not at the top of my list anymore.

 

thanks for the help....

Josh

Edited by shasdakota
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Beautiful rig man! And welcome. But please, for the love of all that is holy, remove those horrible wind blocks around your windows! It's great that you got a diesel. I've searched high and low for any half decent diesel Terrano in Germany and it's impossible.

 

The wind blocks look good imho, also are really nice for cruizing with the windows down B)

 

 

On a serious note,

great looking terrano, very jealous of your km's.. take care of it and it will serve you well :dance:

 

-Daniel

Edited by Terrano757
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happy to report, the pink/purple wind shields are gone!

scroll back to see new pics.

I will update my signature once I get new tires/body lift.

hopefully sooner rather than later....

I just came across some 31" BFG A/T KO's @ 75% tread wear, plus a spare, with 5x 5x6.5 lug toyota lego wheels. in my area for $800obo. i really wanted to grab them, but i just couldnt afford it with all the maintenance I need to do right now. Just wasnt the right time. bummer. at least my new choice of tires/wheels will perform/look better, but dang, the price was right, but the timing wasnt. and i probably would have had to spend $200 on wheel spacers on top of it anyways, because stock they have 4.5"BS i think. And i dont think that will fit on my truck, not the way it is at least, or with a 2" BL.

Does anyone use wheel spacers only on the front wheels? kinda off topic. just curious. i could check myself.

time to get to work flushing my fluids.

hope to drain/re-fill my differentials today, and my transfer case, and clean everything up real nice.

When I look inside my engine bay, I see a sort of light,speckled,white crust starting to form on top of alot of the metal in my engine bay. Do you know what I mean? What would clean this up the best? Anyone know?

Thanks,

Josh

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without seeing it i would guess proably some kind of corrosion... depending on the metal material you could probably clean/polish aluminum stuff with some steel wool and a mag wheel polish and steel stuff I would say get some sand paper and paint to make it purty.

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