Front struts

[rgallant]

Hi guys can some one direct me to a how to remove post. Did a search and did not find anything specfic. My rear springs are done, but considering one was completely shot the fronts have moved up in priority. I am a few weeks away but need to figure out if this is something I can manage on a weekend.

 

Everything I have found so far is somewhat contradictory.

 

 

Oh and because it will matter 97 R50

 

Thanks.

[muddfildvaynes]

What I did to remove my struts when I put my 2" AC lift in was jack it up and put it on jackstands and remove the tires, then take the clamps off the strut holding the brake line in place. Next unbolt the sway bar end links, then take the two bolts out holding the strut to the spindle on the bottom. I took a hanger and tied the spindle up so it didn't hand there and put all the weight on the ball joint, then take the 3 nuts off on top of the srut and it should come out; make sure there is someone to catch the strut when you take those bolts out, don't let it hit the ground. Now as for spring replacement you could go rent a pair of spring compressors from a autoparts store or any store that rents out tools; or you could go to a shop like pep boys who has a spring compressor and get them to do it which is much safer. Be sure to replace your strut bearing also known as the upper strut mount because if you are taking it apart to replace the spring you don't want to put the old ones back and might as well replace it while you have it apart.

[GoPathyGo]

What I did to remove my struts when I put my 2" AC lift in was jack it up and put it on jackstands and remove the tires, then take the clamps off the strut holding the brake line in place. Next unbolt the sway bar end links, then take the two bolts out holding the strut to the spindle on the bottom. I took a hanger and tied the spindle up so it didn't hand there and put all the weight on the ball joint, then take the 3 nuts off on top of the srut and it should come out; make sure there is someone to catch the strut when you take those bolts out, don't let it hit the ground. Now as for spring replacement you could go rent a pair of spring compressors from a autoparts store or any store that rents out tools; or you could go to a shop like pep boys who has a spring compressor and get them to do it which is much safer. Be sure to replace your strut bearing also known as the upper strut mount because if you are taking it apart to replace the spring you don't want to put the old ones back and might as well replace it while you have it apart.

 

Yup. If you're gonna do it, spring for a Factory Service Manual ($15 online). Nissan's are (mostly) useful and provide the tightening torques, which is going to be very important. If you're going to the trouble of removing the strut and unbolting the sway bar, you might as well check all the bushings, ball joints and brake components. Honestly, you'll have to at least disconnect the strut from the knuckle whenever you replace the ball joint, so you might as well do it now.

 

The 2 bar and clamshell rental spring compressors suck. People never grease the threads, often use massive impacts etc Not only that, but the design is fundamentally not great from a safety perspective. The clamshell ones are often particulary bad. If they haven't quite loosened the spring enough, you end up trying to compress the springs some more. You then risk hitting the compressive limit and blam, the whole thing flies apart. I've had the 2 bar typelet go on me. I would either have someone else compress them or, if the local shops are schmucks like they are around where I live, get a compressor with jaws and plates top and bottom to make sure the thing stays in there.

[180sx]

Above +.

 

Key points.

 

3 Nuts hold the top of the strut.

2 Bolts are on the bottom.

Remove Sway bar end link from strut.

Remove brake line from strut.

Wiggle out of there.

Dissassemble by your way.

 

Note, the strut mount has an 'L' and a 'R'. The letter on the side should be facing the engine.

The spring hat has a 'v' notch in it. This should be lined up with the correct letter.

 

Have fun!

 

Jose

[rgallant]

Thanks very much guys, no renting spring compressor here I have a tire shop the will do it for me for cheap. The plan is to buy the parts, build the new struts and then pop the old ones out and the new ones in.

 

Just deciding between medium and heavy duty springs, kind of KMA bumper or not I hate budgeting issues.

 

I will photo and document for the next guy.

[XPLORx4]

Unless you plan to purchase a lot of extra strut parts (that typically don't need to be replaced) at considerable extra cost, you can't just do a total strut assembly swap like you're thinking. All parts, except for the strut bearing and the strut top mount from the old strut assembly are 100% reusable when replacing the springs and/or struts.

 

See this post and the one following it that shows the parts you need.

 

Here's an example of a strut top mount that needs to be replaced. The hole should be mostly round, and shaped like a "D" for the strut shaft, not oblong like this:

Edited April 5, 2011 by XPLORx4

[Rick13]

Didn't see it mentioned, and I'm not even sure you have it on your particular rig, but I'd watch out/remove the ABS sensor/line also (mine were clipped/retained to each strut when removed last time).

[180sx]

Didn't see it mentioned, and I'm not even sure you have it on your particular rig, but I'd watch out/remove the ABS sensor/line also (mine were clipped/retained to each strut when removed last time).

 

Oh yea, that too! Been a while since I replaced mine.

 

And hey, thats my strut mount! Haha. I remember that! here's more of the carnage from that incident.

 

Jose

[rgallant]

Thanks for the info Xplorx4, priced out the extras and they add about 200.00, just so people know that does not include the bearing and top cap that should be replaced by default. So I guess I am going your way pull them out visual inspect and hope all the odd bits are ok.

[GoPathyGo]

Thanks for the info Xplorx4, priced out the extras and they add about 200.00, just so people know that does not include the bearing and top cap that should be replaced by default. So I guess I am going your way pull them out visual inspect and hope all the odd bits are ok.

 

I've reused quite a few parts each time I've done strut work. Most recent job was my Altima. Honestly, some things don't NEED to be OEM. Others do. Check with Rockauto.com

[nissaneric]

Oh yea, that too! Been a while since I replaced mine.

 

And hey, thats my strut mount! Haha. I remember that! here's more of the carnage from that incident.

 

Jose

 

gotta know, what the hell happened??

[sequim85]

the upper strut bearings are plastic pieces of crap...if i ever have problems with them again im going to my local bearing shop and picking up some uber thrust bearing

[180sx]

The bearing shouldn't be plastic. Should be metal. The one's I have in now are half metal, half plastic from NAPA. Haven't had a problem with them at all.

 

Nissaneric, that was from a bad excursion. It happened twice. Not once, but twice! One from offroading, the other from a pothole. A pothole! Haha. Oh well. That may look bad, but if you ever get a chance to see FUELER's, his was bad! His went through his damn fender! Haha. I'll have to find the picture if I can.

 

Jose

[thehuntersam]

Sorry to jack the thread for a bit, but I have a question. I'm okay with the R50's suspension, I just haven't worked on it a lot though.. I was looking at a buddys R50 and he said the front end is having a lot of problems. He said the struts were brand now but the steering was off and it wanders a lot and makes a noise. After looking at it for a minute, when he turned the wheel, the passenger side strut would move. The spring would slightly rotate when ever he turned the wheel. I checked the sway bar and that seemed to be in good shape. I'm thinking to the strut needs to be taken out and checked again. Or should he just retighten down and get an alignment? Thanks for the help

[rgallant]

That strut should not move, nor should the spring move just from turning the wheel. It has 7 bolts holding it in place no play should be there, my springs are at their end of life and I don't get that.

 

Thing about the situation that spring is under compression from half weight of the front end it should not rotate, nor should the strut move. I maybe calling the sky is falling but it seems to me that is serious safety issue.

 

It should be looked at, preferably by someone competent. I am thinking they missed some thing.

[nissaneric]

agreed, i would check that out for sure!

[piste]

Sorry to jack the thread for a bit, but I have a question. I'm okay with the R50's suspension, I just haven't worked on it a lot though.. I was looking at a buddys R50 and he said the front end is having a lot of problems. He said the struts were brand now but the steering was off and it wanders a lot and makes a noise. After looking at it for a minute, when he turned the wheel, the passenger side strut would move. The spring would slightly rotate when ever he turned the wheel. I checked the sway bar and that seemed to be in good shape. I'm thinking to the strut needs to be taken out and checked again. Or should he just retighten down and get an alignment? Thanks for the help

 

Not real sure what the issue is with your buddy's R50...maybe worn tie rod ends? But the way I'm interpreting your description of struts moving sounds like totally normal function to me. I guess depends what you mean by "move". But yes the entire spring and strut assembly will rotate as normal function when one turns the wheel....as the assembly is fixed to the steering knuckle. They rotate on the bearing....and speaking of bearings...someone mentioned "cheap plastic". I did my struts on my 97 SE last summer. Put in replacement OEM bearings....but honestly the 13 year old "cheap plastic" original ones were functioning perfectly....no play or noticeable wear whatsoever. Only replaced them as I'd already bought the new parts.

[devonianwalk]

....and speaking of bearings...someone mentioned "cheap plastic". I did my struts on my 97 SE last summer. Put in replacement OEM bearings....but honestly the 13 year old "cheap plastic" original ones were functioning perfectly....no play or noticeable wear whatsoever. Only replaced them as I'd already bought the new parts.

 

 

Yeah, same here. Actually, both sides looked reusable. I too replaced them just because I paid $$ for them.

[thehuntersam]

Not real sure what the issue is with your buddy's R50...maybe worn tie rod ends? But the way I'm interpreting your description of struts moving sounds like totally normal function to me. I guess depends what you mean by "move". But yes the entire spring and strut assembly will rotate as normal function when one turns the wheel....as the assembly is fixed to the steering knuckle. They rotate on the bearing....and speaking of bearings...someone mentioned "cheap plastic". I did my struts on my 97 SE last summer. Put in replacement OEM bearings....but honestly the 13 year old "cheap plastic" original ones were functioning perfectly....no play or noticeable wear whatsoever. Only replaced them as I'd already bought the new parts.

 

When I mean "the strut moved" the whole spring would turn as he turned the wheel. That just didn't seem right to me along with the almost "popping sound" it made.

[XPLORx4]

The whole strut assembly, except for the top part that's bolted to the body, is supposed to rotate with the wheel. There's a plastic "bearing" between the top mount and the upper spring seat that, when worn, can make the popping sounds.