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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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Finally wrapped up a small collection of maintenance items that had been neglected long enough and got the truck out of the garage.  Been dealing with all sorts of noises all around the truck for months.  Took about a week of pecking at things between the PF and my beater Frontier CC.  Items addressed:
  1. Figured out a metal rattle that had been bugging the isht outta me for months.  Simply couldn't figure it out, but sounded like either an axle shaft or the entire axle was going to rattle off the truck.  Was the parking brake cable bracket being loose and tapping the control arm.
  2. Pulled the rear springs to grease up the rubber insulators that were squeaking like crazy against my spacers and chassis at the slightest flex.
  3. Finally installed nice, shiny, new Bilsteins thanks to [mention=41155]R50JR[/mention].  Bought some new 1/2" hardware long ago, but figured I'd need a right-angle drill to open up the 12mm holes in the upper mount brackets.  I had enough clearance with my drill the whole time.  Ride quality was a notable improvement.  Wished I had done sooner.
  4. Passenger CV boots worsened earlier in the year and had been slinging grease when locked.  Finally rebuilt it.  Hate that ufcking job so much.  While I had everything apart, I also took apart a D22 CV I had.  As suspected, they're practically identical.  Only difference is a 1.75" longer shaft, the outer splining being a hair larger, the ball-bearing thingy that is splined for that end, and the compression clip on that side.  Aside from those three pieces, everything else is identical.
  5. Put poly sway bar bushings on.  Only had been sitting on them for probably 2 years.
  6. Greased the sway bar links and balljoints.
  7. When I was putting everything back together, I sheared 3 hub studs.  That sucked, and I failed to extract them.  Spot trip to the JY, pulled a hub (making sure I could get those studs out there first), cleaned it up, swapped all my longer wheel studs over, degrease everything (bearings were still good).  Wasted weekend dealing with that.
  8. Pulled all those crappy studs from both hubs and ordered some M8x1.25 x 45mm class 12.9 socket bolts.  Received and installed them tonight.
Totally happy to report that after a drive around and even some 4wd time in some gravel, there's not a single pop, creak, squeak, rattle on the truck and it drives smoothly.  

Wow! You must have run into some extra time! That’s alot you got done. I certainly know about parts waiting in the garage for install - it took 4 years to put my winch on & I still haven’t wired it. I have several goodies from you waiting for install as well.
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Not sure why the end pic didn’t work this app is so buggyb029bd9fb57ffea1f6fb9dad581df72f.jpg


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All of your work has been beautiful & creative. Did you do the outside of the drum? Mine look terrible & I’ve been wanting to wire brush & paint them. I’m resisting the urge to paint them red..
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Took advantage of the warm weather to use the carpet cleaner on the R50 mats & carpets. Ironically, none of them are actually from my Pathy. That grey rug is a spare from one I stripped & I may have failed to mention that I recently bought a QX4 as well. It was manufactured 1 month after my Pathy & is the identical color. You can see it sporting my signature punched nose look in the background.

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2 hours ago, RainGoat said:

Wow! You must have run into some extra time! That’s alot you got done. I certainly know about parts waiting in the garage for install - it took 4 years to put my winch on & I still haven’t wired it. I have several goodies from you waiting for install as well.

 

Ha, I wish I had extra time.  Hour here, hour there.  Things just needed to get done, that's for sure.  Just glad the PF is running smoothly again.  Now I need to return focus to my Frontiers...both of them.

 

2 hours ago, RainGoat said:

Took advantage of the warm weather to use the carpet cleaner on the R50 mats & carpets. Ironically, none of them are actually from my Pathy. That grey rug is a spare from one I stripped & I may have failed to mention that I recently bought a QX4 as well. It was manufactured 1 month after my Pathy & is the identical color. You can see it sporting my signature punched nose look in the background.

 

Nice job there.  Weather here is nice, too.  You should come by and clean the decades worth of AZ dirt, dog hair, and fishing trips embedded in the carpet and seats of the beater Frontier for me.  I'll install that LSD while you're at it, lol.

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I swapped in the replacement JY fuel rail with injectors over the weekend and got her running again late yesterday night. I have now full power and I can actually redline again!

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FIRST step of any 2001-4 R50 ownership - secure the powervalves! My new Q went under the knife with Dr. TowndawgR50 yesterday. After I bought this truck, it literally sat here in my drive until the parts came in and we could get this done. Having lost the pristine engine on my original owner Pathy, there was no way I was going to risk this truck. All 6 were in still in place, unlike the 5 missing screws & one displaced butterfly valve when my Pathy blew. These two were manufactured only 1 month apart. 15 years & 102K on mine when it went, 19 years & 123K on this one. As always, thanks a million[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention]

For any who haven’t done it on a late model auto R50:

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

(Keen eyes will note the OEM front bumper in the pic - I just brought that up from a visit to @‘02_Pathy in Portland with@TowndawgR50. Expect something interesting from him soon)

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Hell yes I did the outer drums Raingoat, I put 3 little glow in the dark skulls in there but you can hardly see them through the windows of the rim, do not confuse powdercoat with paint, it’s a polyester hybrid resin I use, 10x the hardness of paint and higher temperature and chemical resistance, no paint would last with brake fluid and dust continuously being flung at it, ( I’ve tried high temp caliper paint before, last a year at best)

So what your seeing is the original pistons that have been coated on the tops with a ceramic paint literally called piston coat(Cerakote V-136) reflects the temps back into the combustion chamber good up 2000 fahrenheit prevents heat soak through the connecting rods and crank increasing efficiency.

The skirts are coated with Cerakote P-109 Microslick a dry lubricant ceramic, it’s about 1mm thick will not interfere with tolerances and it has many advantages as well. these coating can actually be applied to combustion chambers,crank, valve faces, valve springs, exhaust ports and a few other places. This engine is going to be straight fire one day, ( Whenever I get to reassembling it haha) Honestly I should just do a build page. Been building this Pathfinder for 12 years now.

These coatings have real world results and I will get it on a dyno to prove it eventually



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