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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?

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17 minutes ago, RainGoat said:

Slowly chipping away at that swingate retrofit project.

 

Nice. Though, what rims do you have?  I had to trim the lip on the carrier portion for it to clear the OE rim. 

Edited by hawairish

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Nice. Though, what rims do you have?  I had to trim the lip on the carrier portion for it to clear the OE rim. 

See what I mean - slow!

I have a 17” ProComp spare that was my roof spare in the old days (as well as the OEM spare) but I haven’t yet decided on my final tire/wheel size. Given how everything is trial & error here, I figured I better wait until the SFD is actually on to do that. I also have a perfectly good set of Toyo Open Country ATIIs that have served me well. I’m planning on replacing them when I go larger but I don’t feel any sense of urgency. I fully expect a ridiculous transitional period when I’m abnormally raked & on tiny tires but it’s been smashed in the front for nearly 2 years anyway & my wife has zero interest in driving or riding in it so it won’t be much of an aesthetic change.

For my final product, I’m leaning towards black ProComp(ish) steelies with the proper backspacing rather than spacers. Of course aluminum is all the smarter up here as it’s not nearly as rocky as the SW here & AL doesn’t corrode. However, steelies are cheap & easy enough to repaint as they wear. My whole truck is slowly creeping towards POR 15 Chassis Black accenting-the satin finish matches up pretty well with all my factory faded black. (Even my mailbox is now Chassis Black-it will be a long term UV/wet weather exposure test case)

Tires of course are another area of debate. Likely the largest BFGs that will fit.@TowndawgR50 was advocating for a KO2 & a KM set. I think I’m both too cheap & too lazy to do that. Originally, I was leaning towards the new KM IIIs as this truck will largely be local only & the IIIs are supposed to be both quieter & track better than the IIs (though every review I’ve read was from someone who got them for free so I don’t really trust them). Probably just go with KO2s (unless KO3s show up during my delay). I’ve heard good things about the Falken Wildpeaks but never teally heard why one should get them over KO2s (other than cost I presume).

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Dropped the transmission to replace my rear main seal and gaskets on the coolant crossover pipe. Crappy job for sure. Big thanks to @ferrariowner123 for the help! 

BahHSpc.jpg

b0FwBwR.jpg

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On 11/4/2018 at 9:32 PM, nunya said:

I used to get an occasional "Jeep Wave" from a couple random XJs (Jeep people are kinda dumb-the irony) but would only be verbally confused with other imports.  

Nice to see you around man even without the white 88 👍

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On 11/4/2018 at 8:32 PM, nunya said:

I used to get an occasional "Jeep Wave" from a couple random XJs (Jeep people are kinda dumb-the irony) but would only be verbally confused with other imports.  

 

I've learned the difference between Jeep people an real car people. The jeep fanboys are just losers who care only about looks and wheeling on construction sites.

 

On 11/5/2018 at 1:37 AM, RedPath88 said:

Although never my Pathfinder, that I can remember at least.... but I have seen a trend over the last 10 or so years where all SUV's that look even a little bit intended for off road use, are "Jeeps". May be stupid but there it is, just something I've noticed lately.

 

Everyone at work calls mine a jeep. I've stopped caring because it looks more badass than the typical Hyundai everyone and their mother has.

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I've clay bar'd everything except the roof over the last two weeks.  There are lots of little nooks and crannies on a QX4, :/  It takes so much time.   I've also started  sealing it with the Jescar Power Lock Blue.  Waiting 30 mins to buff it off.  Then I'm going to wait until tomorrow to apply some wax. 

Edited by AlabamaDan
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Finished waxing and detailing the old girl.  

 

 

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Ripped the vg33 dipstick tube out and replaced it with the vg30 one finally. Pain in the damn ass, lots of hammering with screw drivers to pop it up ever so slightly since the 33 tube is so damn long you cant break the seal by twisting it.

Ran sea foam through the engine to create a bit of smoke. Not as much as I would have thought though that is not at all a bad thing. Threw some in the oil and gonna shove the last can and a half in the tank.

Web surfing for good deals on Craig's for parts to rebuild the 44 and 60 how I want them. Everything is so damn $$$$.

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Ripped the vg33 dipstick tube out and replaced it with the vg30 one finally. Pain in the damn ass, lots of hammering with screw drivers to pop it up ever so slightly since the 33 tube is so damn long you cant break the seal by twisting it.
Ran sea foam through the engine to create a bit of smoke. Not as much as I would have thought though that is not at all a bad thing. Threw some in the oil and gonna shove the last can and a half in the tank.
Web surfing for good deals on Craig's for parts to rebuild the 44 and 60 how I want them. Everything is so damn $$$$.

Why change the dip stick?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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16 hours ago, AlabamaDan said:


Why change the dip stick?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Swapped vg33 into the truck and used the vg30 oil pan since the 33 wouldnt clear the diff and I neglected to swap the tube out then so had to do it now. Wont regester the correct oil otherwise.

 

Apologies for all my spelling issues and confusing sentences I post on these damn things. Phone cant keep up with my typing I guess. Makes me look like a damn child I know.

Edited by Charlie_Brown
Misspelling
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The VG33 dipstick also sucks ass. My xterra one is a pain to remove and it is hard to check the oil.

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I wonder if there’s a flat dipstick we could use in place of the wire rope from Nissan. Next time I’m at the junkyard I’ll go on a mission to find one that’ll work.

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2 hours ago, adamzan said:

The VG33 dipstick also sucks ass. My xterra one is a pain to remove and it is hard to check the oil.

The problem with it is it's too damn long so you cant bend it a bit to twist it like the vg30 which makes it just that damn much harder. Unless you drop the diff (on a wd21 st least) and pound it through that side I'm convinced the only thing you can do is beat the crap out of it with a flat bar and pry it up. Heating doesnt seem to change anything and sticking it back in freezing the tube and lubing it doesnt really change much either.

 

A flat dipstick would be a preferable swap in my opinion. I like them better than the wire and weight but either work

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It’s always difficult to tell exactly where the oil line is for me. 3 sides always show full and one will show the actual level. My wife’s flat one is way easier to read.

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Not today, but this past Monday, re-registered and filler her up ready for winter duties if called upon :Aok:

 

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Day off from work today so I casually changed the oil in between football games, meals, and games with the family.  I'm not exactly sure when it was last changed, but it definately time.  It was really dark and the filter was heavy.  😟  I loaded it up with 5w-20 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic  and a Mobil 1 filter. (M1-110A).  The end of the plug had some sludge on it.  The inside of the oil cap had some caked on oil that I had to scrub to get off.  Where the filter spins on had some gunk too.  Well, now everything is clean and I'll keep an eye on it.   I think the Mobil 1 will clean it up over time.  I thought about getting some oil additive, but decided against that stuff.  I'm afraid it's snake oil.  Right before the next oil change I may run some Seafoam in it.  I'll probably change it after 5k for a while.

 

2447E318-7E5B-494E-B305-26B9327461BB_zps

 

 

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8 hours ago, AlabamaDan said:

Day off from work today so I casually changed the oil in between football games, meals, and games with the family.  I'm not exactly sure when it was last changed, but it definately time.  It was really dark and the filter was heavy.  😟  I loaded it up with 5w-20 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic  and a Mobil 1 filter. (M1-110A).  The end of the plug had some sludge on it.  The inside of the oil cap had some caked on oil that I had to scrub to get off.  Where the filter spins on had some gunk too.  Well, now everything is clean and I'll keep an eye on it.   I think the Mobil 1 will clean it up over time.  I thought about getting some oil additive, but decided against that stuff.  I'm afraid it's snake oil.  Right before the next oil change I may run some Seafoam in it.  I'll probably change it after 5k for a while.

 

2447E318-7E5B-494E-B305-26B9327461BB_zps

 

 

Put some marvel mystery oil in there if you want to clean it out, works really good and it's been around forever and I've never heard of anyone having trouble with it. It will even clean out the ring lands and stop oil burning from stuck rings.

James

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Took it up to Tahoe for Thanksgiving, it had seafoam in the oil so maybe just because it was warm and thinner due to the sea foam it was leaking oil faster than normal but still annoyong.

Changed the oil out this morning and looked around at the pan. Cant really see well enough around the diff to see anything coming down from there. Seems like it's coming from the back by the sump but cant be sure. Put some cardboard under it so see where the drips are coming from exactly.

Just one more reason to get the SAS underway even faster

-apologies for any spelling errors or other autocorrects making sentences wonky

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1 hour ago, Charlie_Brown said:

Took it up to Tahoe for Thanksgiving, it had seafoam in the oil so maybe just because it was warm and thinner due to the sea foam it was leaking oil faster than normal but still annoyong.

Changed the oil out this morning and looked around at the pan. Cant really see well enough around the diff to see anything coming down from there. Seems like it's coming from the back by the sump but cant be sure. Put some cardboard under it so see where the drips are coming from exactly.

Just one more reason to get the SAS underway even faster

-apologies for any spelling errors or other autocorrects making sentences wonky

 

Clean the hell out of it using spray, foaming, pressure cleaner, etc so you can see where the leaks are coming from.

 

Don't for get to look from the top too. Had a company vehicle, a '12 1500 Silverado 4x4, in not so long ago for a rear main seal,  so Valvoline thought, as did the real mechanic initially. Turned out the be the rear of the valve cover gaskets leaking and running downtown block making it appear to be the RMS.,,

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On 11/23/2018 at 11:17 PM, AlabamaDan said:

Day off from work today so I casually changed the oil in between football games, meals, and games with the family.  I'm not exactly sure when it was last changed, but it definately time.  It was really dark and the filter was heavy.  😟  I loaded it up with 5w-20 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic  and a Mobil 1 filter. (M1-110A).  The end of the plug had some sludge on it.  The inside of the oil cap had some caked on oil that I had to scrub to get off.  Where the filter spins on had some gunk too.  Well, now everything is clean and I'll keep an eye on it.   I think the Mobil 1 will clean it up over time.  I thought about getting some oil additive, but decided against that stuff.  I'm afraid it's snake oil.  Right before the next oil change I may run some Seafoam in it.  I'll probably change it after 5k for a while.

 

2447E318-7E5B-494E-B305-26B9327461BB_zps

 

 

Why 5w20? That is a little thin at temp for these engines. Nissan spec is/was 5w30. I accidentally put it in my vg xterra once and it rattled when warm.

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8 hours ago, adamzan said:

Why 5w20? That is a little thin at temp for these engines. Nissan spec is/was 5w30. I accidentally put it in my vg xterra once and it rattled when warm.

 

 

Well, you're right.  The FSM reads 5w30....  Should be ok until the next oil change?

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Seems like as good a place as any to set this down...

 

 

:)

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On 11/25/2018 at 10:35 PM, AlabamaDan said:

 

 

Well, you're right.  The FSM reads 5w30....  Should be ok until the next oil change?

 

It's probably fine. I'm actually running 0w40 in my wd21 right now. Great cold start flow, and runs like a 40W at temp.

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On 11/25/2018 at 1:18 AM, RedPath88 said:

 

Clean the hell out of it using spray, foaming, pressure cleaner, etc so you can see where the leaks are coming from.

 

Don't for get to look from the top too. Had a company vehicle, a '12 1500 Silverado 4x4, in not so long ago for a rear main seal,  so Valvoline thought, as did the real mechanic initially. Turned out the be the rear of the valve cover gaskets leaking and running downtown block making it appear to be the RMS.,,

That's the plan. Gonna go under the truck with a pressure washer and some heavy degreaser and take all the gunk and grime off the underbelly to expose nice paint (and probably a fair amount of rust most likely). I'm tired of the underside being dirty and with this oil leak just another reason to do so. If I was ready to bedline the truck I'd use some oven cleaner under it.

Side note exhaust is rattling itself apart again. Time to go tighten bolts in the damn rain (&^%*ing hate working on this truck in winter)

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Got my windows tinted a few days back. 

Floored it in 2nd up to 5k at 45 mph. I'm curious, whats the rev limiter set at? I wanna see how fast I can get this bad bitch up to in each gear *except 4th and 5th. I've already done that lol*

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