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RedRider3141

What did you do to your Pathfinder today?

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Gassed it up and actually drove it somewhere for the first time in months!

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On ‎8‎/‎26‎/‎2018 at 5:45 AM, Slartibartfast said:

Felt a whole lot better about how difficult mine is to work on after helping a friend replace the steering box in his S10 Blazer. The pitman arm joint refused to let go of the centerlink (and there was no room for a puller) so we ended up cutting the pitman in half with a Sawzall just so we could get the box out. :crazy:

 

Obviously you've never encountered a WD/D21 with the pitman arm stuck on the steering box!  :headwall:

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2 hours ago, RedPath88 said:

 

Obviously you've never encountered a WD/D21 with the pitman arm stuck on the steering box!  :headwall:


Mine wasn't happy about coming off, but the right puller and the torch got it eventually. At least I could get to it! The pitman on the Chevy has a crossmember right below it so you can't get a wrench on it, let alone a puller, until it's out of the truck.

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3 hours ago, RedPath88 said:

 

Obviously you've never encountered a WD/D21 with the pitman arm stuck on the steering box!  :headwall:

y'all just need a better puller! I got a snap on cupped style puller years ago and never had a problem pulling a pitman arm again. Even on big ford 3/4 and 1 tons.

Like this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SNAP-ON-TOOLS-CJ119A-Pitman-Arm-Puller-Most-Compact-Cars-And-Trucks/162843263771?hash=item25ea37031b:g:LQcAAOSwlxRaVQPA

 

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^I've got the little brother of that for TREs. Works great. Considered picking up the big one too but couldn't justify the price for something I rarely use.

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9721a2f218410908204555f3c30b0de8.jpg


Where did you get the grab handle?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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12 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:


Mine wasn't happy about coming off, but the right puller and the torch got it eventually. At least I could get to it! The pitman on the Chevy has a crossmember right below it so you can't get a wrench on it, let alone a puller, until it's out of the truck.

 

12 hours ago, JamesRich said:

y'all just need a better puller! I got a snap on cupped style puller years ago and never had a problem pulling a pitman arm again. Even on big ford 3/4 and 1 tons.

Like this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SNAP-ON-TOOLS-CJ119A-Pitman-Arm-Puller-Most-Compact-Cars-And-Trucks/162843263771?hash=item25ea37031b:g:LQcAAOSwlxRaVQPA

 

 

Maybe I should have included a /sarcasm tag ;)

 

When I was collecting several sets of steering parts years ago, most of them were pretty stuck, but only one absolutely refused to come off after a little work and/or some heat.  One would not budge no matter what. I personally broke two pullers on it.  The wrecking yards most experience tech (retired lifelong mechanic, working part time in the yard for a little extra spending money and free project parts) worked on it for a couple hours before giving up himself and he used the same, or similar, puller to the one you linked.  I ended up taking the entire steering box home with me.  I cut the shaft off at the PA, then using many more heat cycles along with a steel rod and a 3lb sledge I was finally have to drive the cut off shaft out of the PA backwards.

 

So yeah, this was an extreme case ;)

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27 minutes ago, Slartibartfast said:

You must've really wanted that pitman arm!

 

Well hopefully my efforts ended up on someone else's truck (trucks actually, as I collected several PA/IA/CL sets) in the form of a modified and stronger PA as part of a complete steering system upgrade kit.... but sadly,  I really doubt it :thumbsdown:

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Where did you get the grab handle?

It’s from Raingler nets for about $12. I included it in my Mom’s Cieling net order. Same for the “rings” on the ends. Both cheaper on Amazon. I found Red webbing with the same black handles for $13 for 4. In retrospect I would get red for better visibility, though there are a dozen options.

4Pcs Grab Handle Pull With Hole For Jeep Wrangler JK 2007-2017 (Red) by RT-TCZ $12.99341df9a686b1c592a93312d74a00ab2f.jpeg

I’m going to try a paracord handle on the passenger side but still can’t bring myself to pay BarTac $25 for 1-probably do grey/silver & Black.

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20 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:

^I've got the little brother of that for TREs. Works great. Considered picking up the big one too but couldn't justify the price for something I rarely use.

I've got a snap on 1000 series 4 box set full of things I rarely use. But when I need it it's there! That is at least when people that borrow them bring them back! The only problem with having a lot of tools, friends think I run a loaner company!

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Finally got around to drilling out the broken bolts so I could reattach the skid plate. I gave up on saving the old threads, drilled the holes out to 3/8" or so, and hammered in M6x1 nuts. Little welding, little grinding, and I've got threads again! It's like riv-nuts, except not.

 

Oh, and I discovered that one of my 555 LBJs had the boot half falling off for some reason. It popped back on again, but it looks like the rubber's already starting to crack. That didn't take long!

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Replaced the throttle body boot, old one had two big cracks in it and brittle as hell!

Probably wasn't helping my air /fuel mixture much.

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Started taking measurements and soaked some nuts with PB Blaster in preparation for installing a lift.  Then stopped and fell in the pool since we're in yet another heat wave with indexes around 105 degrees F

REALLY tired of summer right now.

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This last week I finally painted up the swingarm I intend to retrofit on my truck plus some ditch light brackets. I figured I might as well repaint the hitch & receiver too. Then I got a little carried away & took off my rear bumper WAAG bar 545d433d7b180294b57429425468bd02.jpgto repaint & grabbed the mailbox, some old patio furniture, the fire pit grate. I went paint CRAZY! I’m even thinking about crawling around under the truck with some steel wool & POR-15 rust converter. BTW POR-15 Chasis Black matches the faded black everything on my truck!

 

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You painted that frog in the picture too?

Edited by JamesRich
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You painted that frog in the picture too?

How funny, I didn’t even see the frog until you pointed it out!

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Finally LPD 3’d my old engine & stored it before the rainy season (Oct-June) started.7205adb7ff06e08c08205fc798d9f79d.jpg170530988034117b6fb43cce2e0620e0.jpg

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today they gave me my truck, from the paint shop, which had a couple of blows by the hail, next step wheel spacers and lift41536607_10215460315975364_3401970821235736576_n.jpg.e9144d4f1a5434ea8a63d1dd5cfa6d6c.jpg41517485_10215460316615380_6547128960679936000_n.jpg.2366887c72f2435e4c71be9c5ad5e3e5.jpg

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Added ground wire to the aux lights and was going to change the switches since one was broken but I got the wrong type of switches like an idiot so now waiting for the correct ones to come in.

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Yesterday I fixed my cruise.  Today I installed under hood lights.  Life is good!

 

 

Edited by AlabamaDan
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Installed vent visors

 

 

Edited by AlabamaDan

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Well, I went out and put the hood and front flares and flaps back on, as well as the radiator overflow and the battery. I thought I was pretty much finished putting it back together after the engine swap, but now I have a weird problem. When I put in the key and turn it to accessory none of the dash lights come on except for the odometer backlight and it doesn't show any numbers. I pulled the passenger seat back out to see the ecm, and I found that it would have the red and green light come on constantly with the key on accessory, and when I turned the key off they stayed lit for a few seconds and then faded. I had hooked up a battery to the terminals when the engine was out so I could roll the windows up and down (one day, manual windows...) and it worked fine a few times but then one time it stopped working, same thing as now. No power to windows, no turn signals, no dome lamps, and no hazards. The headlights will come on and switch beams but I put in HID projectors way back. It's triggered by the stock wiring but draws power from the battery through a relay. I looked over the relays and fusible links at the positive terminal and they all looked fine to me? So, do you guys think I screwed up the ecm somehow by trying to roll up the windows without an engine? Or could it be as simple as the fact that I just realized that I didn't put a ground strap on the engine yet? Any idea what the green and red light on the ecm might indicate? Check engine light never came on, and I thought it was on the same circuit as the red light on the ecm. Also my aftermarket stereo isn't getting any power and if I remember correctly I had it powered by the constant live wire from the stock harness split between the constant power line in the stereo (for memory?) and a switch to the switched power line. I can't find my multimeter so I haven't checked voltage on anything yet but all the fuses I can find are fine and the relays seem fine. I need to get a better idea of how to check a relay. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've spent way too long doing a 3.3 swap and I want to drive my pathfinder! I have dreams every night where I drive it around but when I'm awake I can't remember what it feels like to cruise around in my beautiful little truck! Oh, and yesterday I relocated the oil filter into the front bumper (I forgot how packed the engine compartment was until I put everything back into it, and then I couldn't find another place to put it...) and forgot to take a single picture. 

 

EDIT: I went back out and looked again, and I found that the fusible link section off the positive terminal with the green and black wires is burned through on the black wire. Trying to find a part number or listing for a new one, and I guess I'll spice a piece of wire in to complete the connection temporarily to see if that fixes the problem. 

Edited by Wroth

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