k9sar Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Listened to my new front tires rub when I had a passenger in the truck and made a turn. Guess it's time to crank the T-bars again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 If that's really necessary I might just swap in another motor....I don't really want to wait weeks to get it fixed. Weeks? Man you people are slow up there. Yes, it's necessary. You'd be awfully angry if you put the head back on and it isn't true only to pop another head gasket. It only takes a few minutes to do... Also, it's a good idea to remove the head bolts in the tightening sequence a little at a time. Yard in bolts completely while others are still fully tight is a way to warp the head in its self. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Weeks? Man you people are slow up there. Yes, it's necessary. You'd be awfully angry if you put the head back on and it isn't true only to pop another head gasket. It only takes a few minutes to do... Also, it's a good idea to remove the head bolts in the tightening sequence a little at a time. Yard in bolts completely while others are still fully tight is a way to warp the head in its self. I just know how shops work up here. They tell you to leave them and they'll get around to it. Are you saying all they need to do is check them for trueness? I don't want to get into valve jobs and whatever. It runs fine. Just loses coolant and overheats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 They should be able to true the surface deck in less than a week. Basically just skims a tiny bit off for a true flat head surface. Unless you need a lot doesn't change much. Now id they take off over 0.030" then you "may" have to recalculate compression or piston to valve clearance. Others may know the tolerance specs for that. Sent from my Moto X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig1902 Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 UHF and antenna installed, found my high pressure hose for power steering is split so time to get a new one as soon as the shop opens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fman Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 new cap , rotor, a/c idler pulley bearing and leads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 They should be able to true the surface deck in less than a week. Basically just skims a tiny bit off for a true flat head surface. Unless you need a lot doesn't change much. Now id they take off over 0.030" then you "may" have to recalculate compression or piston to valve clearance. Others may know the tolerance specs for that. Sent from my Moto X Here's hoping it doesn't need much! I would like to get out of this project for under 500 bones if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stovanovich Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) Playing tug of war with a Suzuki on the weekend.Had a busy night of cleaning last night, removing carpets etc. But this was just too much fun that it was all worth it. Edited October 29, 2014 by stovanovich 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 My battery is doing this: Can't imagine this being a good sign. Time for a new one? Yellow top?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) Playing tug of war with a Suzuki on the weekend. Had a busy night of cleaning last night, removing carpets etc. But this was just too much fun that it was all worth it. Did you ever und up in the pit? My battery is doing this: Can't imagine this being a good sign. Time for a new one? Yellow top?! Clean up everything, wire brush the surfaces clean of all corrosion/contaminates in and out of the connectors as well as the post, put it all back together and coat it with batter terminal spray. You might also consider replacing the cables or at least cutting it back and putting a new end on it, the corrosion has probably started working it's way of the cable an inch or two Edited October 29, 2014 by RedPath88 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) Received my spectre inline air box/filter in the mail today. 3" inlet and outlet to match the n60 maf. Just waiting on a couple more couplers to put together the custom intake. Come on shipping! also got a couple of tie rods in the mail as well. Now I can swap over the 2wd steering swap and steering damper from the old 93 to the new 92. Edited October 29, 2014 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stovanovich Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Did you ever und up in the pit? Only on my own accord was having too much fun giving the Suzuki false hope every time instead to allow him to pull me in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Here's hoping it doesn't need much! I would like to get out of this project for under 500 bones if possible. Hell it should be under that much. Anytime you pop a head gasket the heads need to be decked, or as he said, trued. Mainly due to overheating which warps aluminum easily especially with an iron block. Around here $40-50 and an hour later you're out the door. It could also be that the engine was severely overheated and warped the head which is what caused the head gasket to blow if it actually did and isn't just leaking by. But, with 5 head bolts per cylinder, they don't really tend to do that. Also, do not retorque the head bolts a short time later. No-no! Today I fixed an exhaust rattle with bailing wire. Damn hanger broke right off. Can't believe some people's shoddy ass exhaust work sometimes. I've had more problems with this system done by some yahoo in Oregon than any other, even the rusty factory stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) Here's hoping it doesn't need much! I would like to get out of this project for under 500 bones if possible. I couldn't find your original post but I have a '96 3.0 liter I might sell. What was your new truck? I didn't find your post? KJ Edited October 30, 2014 by kdj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Did you ever und up in the pit? Clean up everything, wire brush the surfaces clean of all corrosion/contaminates in and out of the connectors as well as the post, put it all back together and coat it with batter terminal spray. You might also consider replacing the cables or at least cutting it back and putting a new end on it, the corrosion has probably started working it's way of the cable an inch or two Now I'm not really familiar with this technique, but I assume it's the usual butter, eggs and sugar combination? yes? Can I get that at NAPA? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CO_pathfinder Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Went wheeling with a friend of mine and his buddies, didn't drive the Pathfinder because timing belt is getting done this weekend Here's my buddy in his Cherokee: A little bit ago, I drove a friend to the store to return something. Saw this and had to get out to take a picture WD22, Almost-R50, and WD21 (mine) Also, new sticker to note: Where the 3rd-brake light on an R50 would be, I've got this 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I love that sticker! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CO_pathfinder Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I also stuck one on my front bumper that says "dont worry, that noise is normal" 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNAM Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Passed CA smog today! Today was a good day. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flnl Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 (edited) Tried to fix the torn sun visor hinge. And to open the high monted stop light lens. No success. Edited October 31, 2014 by flnl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbley11 Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 (edited) On the way to work, everytime I pushed the clutch it would cut out and have no power. Went and h, bent some stuff works fine again, might have to dig deeper if it comes back. Edited November 1, 2014 by Bubbley11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Tried to fix the torn sun visor hinge. And to open the high monted stop light lens. No success. To remove the stop lamp I believe there should be three plastic caps, under those there are screws you can remove, then the lamp has to slide left or right to remove out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flnl Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Yep, this I did, bit how to separate the red lens from the black plastic? It seems glued... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flnl Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Trying to fix the torn sunvisor hinge, again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Replaced the tail light bulb. What's with automotive manufacturers and changing the type of light bulbs within a model year?! This is my second vehicle where I got the wrong bulb because the exact same vehicle changes light bulbs in the midst of production. What's the difference between a wedge style halogen bulb and round base halogen bulb? I don't see one as an upgrade over the other? It's not like LED replacing halogen... Cost maybe?! Doubtful when the wedge bulb costs more than the round bottom one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now