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RedRider3141

What did you do to your Pathfinder today?

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Installed my strut rod bushings yesterday. Needed to weld new races in.

 

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NAPA store-brand conventional 5W-30 and NAPA Gold filters will work perfect for 5,000 mile oil change intervals.

Store brand = rebottled Valvoline, Napa Gold = Wix filter.

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Good job on the radius arm bushings, my frame brackets aren't bored out so much as yours but my bushing cups are equally as mangled. I need to weld some new races in there too... I think I even have some that will work. Ah...project for another day.

 

Today i installed some auxiliary reverse lights on my rear wind deflector. perfect place for them and they look really nice, ill wire it up tomorrow.

 

I also replaced all the vacuum lines in the engine bay with blue silicone lines, tweaked my carbon canister and power steering reservoir locations a bit so its not so stuffy on the one side. (my power steering reservoir is relocated right in front of the carbon canister on the driver side and the cone filter is right in front of that)

 

Also made a bracket for my cone filter. the previous 'setup' was wire strapping to the power steering reservoir, lol.

 

New rad cap (old one was 21 years old), tightened up some loose clamps. only a couple hours of work but I feel like I got a lot done!

 

Now to finish restoring these old alloy rims and shed 20-25lbs per wheel in weight savings...got them cheap but they were sitting outside for who knows how long and were totally corroded. I have been wire wheeling (hours and hours worth of it) them back to health...3 of them are almost done... one more to go...can't wait to feel the difference with 80-100 lbs removed from my wheels in total. haha

 

 

Edited by Nefarious

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Well I came up with the wiring diagram to run my rear and auxiliary lights, I can run all of my other rear lights that I'm adding later to separate switches off the main line as ill be sizing 40 amp relays for the task. With this setup the rear lights will come on when I go into reverse, or when I flip a cabin switch, and there will be a lockout switch to deactivate them in town to keep it legal. These will then act as auxiliary reverse lamps in the bush or work lamps separate from the reverse circuit.

 

https://m.facebook.com/?_rdr#!/photo.php?fbid=10153744180180504&id=764055503&set=a.10151189050015504.795921.764055503&ref=m_notif&notif_t=like&actorid=678080918&__user=764055503

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Store brand = rebottled Valvoline, Napa Gold = Wix filter.

Exactly why I recommend those products! :)

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Pulled the fender flares off, still prepping for paint, then considered leaving the flares off, looks meaner

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Exactly why I recommend those products! :)

I know, just wanted to let him know in case he didn't already.

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Hooked up my rear view mirror cam and display.

 

3_zps665452fa.jpg

 

1_zps237ea42f.jpg

 

 

Looks a little grainy in the pic but it looks clear in person.. The cam has inferred night vision feature. Just waiting till it's a little darker outside to test this feature.

 

4_zps136c3ec4.jpg

 

5_zps116e2496.jpg

Inferred

 

Stoked! :aok:

 

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That is pretty sweet, how much did that cost? I'd love one.

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That indeed looks sweet, because i've also been considering getting something like that!

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replaced the bearing in the tensioner pulley for my a/c belt. Took care of that noise. quick and easy repair made more difficult by the worst snap ring pliers on the planet.

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looked at it before work this morning, feeling sad. Was hoping to have it painted by the weekend, but my air compressor took a dump, no paint anytime soon. Now it is torn apart, no hood, molding, all taped up. Grrrrrrrr

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Finally got the torsion bars in...yeah, now for the alignment...

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Another few hours of grinding aluminum alloy rims. Got the set of 4 with old 31s for 70$. Sold the tires for 30$, so only paid 10$ per wheel, lol. They are really nice 15x7 alloys but catch is they were sitting outside for years and there's no clear coat left.

 

They are completely covered in corrosion but there was pretty much zero pitting, so I'm grinding the rims back to white metal inside and out and sanding/polishing them back to life. One is done inside and out, two are finished the outside but not the insides, and one i havent touched yet. About 12 hours in so far, lol. I'd say another 8 hours to go to finish it all up.*sigh*

 

Cutting 20-25lbs per wheel of rim weight should be a massive improvement on my rig though... the 15x10 steel rims are beast but they are just so damn heavy!

Edited by Nefarious

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Got in and replaced all the brakes front and rear. In front 3 of 4 pads were cracked, in back just were getting a bit thin for me, now for the fun bleeding them back to firm and adjust the e/brake. I also installed the mile marker hubs that was just sitting around collecting dust, wow those are the easiest thing I've ever installed on my pathfinder, still need to align her though. Went out in the back acres and tested the hubs out, and wow what a difference something so simple made. Oh yeah I sanded the rear frame down and primered, and repainted it back to black, sanded down the brakes drums and primed,painted them Rancho red.

Edited by Nissanland
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Changed out the water pump after it had been leaking for a few weeks. For some reason, I've read (on here I think) and also in the Chilton manual that to remove the pump, you don't have to go any further than removing the top timing cover. Busted that. Had to go all the way to timing belt removal to get the pump off. PITA but it's done. Thermostat changed again (T-belt was done with a tstat change in April 2011. Pump wasn't changed then because the belt actually slipped and I had no idea if she'd start again). New pump and stat. 90A alternator mod coming up, then E-Fan conversion from Maxima soon. Looks like a rear main oil seal is needing to be done.

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Overshot the turn into my driveway (fresh snow over slush) and got friendly with the ditch. :doh:Bent the bumper into the fender, pushed the fender back, knackered the parking light... oh well, I have a spare parking light and the PO dented that same fender long before I got it. Hopefully a little BFH work will put it right.

I'd heard that the stock bumpers are pretty weak... now I've seen it firsthand!

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I would just find a JY bumper and fender, and leave yours till you replace it. You can actually get some pretty good results with matching paint and some clear coat. Then again I couldn't stand driving around with a smashed up front end so that's just my 2 cents.

 

Today I prayed my fan clutch would not fly off while I towed my friend's 02 maxima to it's new home.

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Finally got some time to go at my wonky carb with a can of carb cleaner, sprayed that sucker good, waited a while, sprayed it again and was mighty impressed at the stupid amount of black gunk coming off it. It actually has shiny parts on it! I never knew... then spent some time with a can WD40 oiling up the linkage, tightened my throttle cable up some, got a new air filter in, and finally figured out how the after-market alarm and central locking unit is hooked up to the electronics system... you really don't want to know :/

 

 

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Got some cool little black body plugs for the rear fender holes. Popped them right in.. Now I'm stylin' :aok:6_zps03dec539.jpg

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I would just find a JY bumper and fender, and leave yours till you replace it. You can actually get some pretty good results with matching paint and some clear coat. Then again I couldn't stand driving around with a smashed up front end so that's just my 2 cents.

 

The fender flare was pushed into the tire and rubbed on left turns, so I decided to tear into it. Looks like there's no mechanical damage, so that's good. The lower valance and the bumper weren't too bad, but the driver's side bumper bracket is bent in new and exciting ways. When I get the bracket straight and flatten the fender out a bit, it should look good enough to leave until spring.

 

Any pointers on how to remove a bumper bracket? I can probably just straighten it from the outside but I would like to make sure it isn't cracked or something where I can't see it.

 

Finally got some time to go at my wonky carb with a can of carb cleaner, sprayed that sucker good, waited a while, sprayed it again and was mighty impressed at the stupid amount of black gunk coming off it. It actually has shiny parts on it! I never knew... then spent some time with a can WD40 oiling up the linkage, tightened my throttle cable up some, got a new air filter in, and finally figured out how the after-market alarm and central locking unit is hooked up to the electronics system... you really don't want to know :/

 

Does it run any better cleaned out? (I'd recommend motor or gear oil over WD40, it evaporates pretty quickly.)

 

(Crimp connectors and lots of electrical tape?)

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The fender flare was pushed into the tire and rubbed on left turns, so I decided to tear into it. Looks like there's no mechanical damage, so that's good. The lower valance and the bumper weren't too bad, but the driver's side bumper bracket is bent in new and exciting ways. When I get the bracket straight and flatten the fender out a bit, it should look good enough to leave until spring.

 

Any pointers on how to remove a bumper bracket? I can probably just straighten it from the outside but I would like to make sure it isn't cracked or something where I can't see it.

 

Look in the wheel well above the steering box area you should be able to reach the two bolts for the bumper bracket. Its actually easy ti remove the bumper this way. I would take a pic of mine but I have a body lift so it doesn't exactly look stock any more lol. Too bad you're not closer I have a mint black bumper with mounts and two spare fenders!

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Just a comment in regards to oil filters, I had heard Napa Gold are made by Wix and both are supposed to be good filters, this is only my experience so if either one works for you, than good.

 

I put a Napa Gold oil filter on my 90 sentra one time and noticed in the morning, first start up of the day the engine would tick, you know the taking time for the oil to reach the top of the engine sound. I didn't like that so I removed the Napa Gold filter and put on a Purolator Pure One filter, no more ticking noise. I was running Mobil One oil at the time.

 

I always recommend Pure one or OEM filters, as I said if you have good luck with other brands that's good, this is my opinion and from my experience.

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