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RedRider3141

What did you do to your Pathfinder today?

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Dropped my QX4 off at the dealership and they replaced my front seat belts. WOW what a difference they make when they actually retract. They even gave me a loaner, a 2019 QX60 with 6 miles on it! I was nervous....

What year is your QX4? I wonder if my 2002 would be eligible...

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Okay, that’s totally different than I was thinking. If you go to my RainGoat Instagram & look at the 2nd & 3rd postings you’ll see Alex’s truck with the conduit clamps holding it on. He used furs coat to make them black. TownDawgR50 also used the galvanized conduit clamps for his rack but it was off on that trip.

It’s hard to really see how there are mounted. I sort of have an idea in my head though. Here is what I made:

 

I started with the 1”

76529c9e171215416b480121f9825d98.jpg

 

Then went 2”

95add4d3829a806d5015669fbfdfd158.jpg

 

How it’s sitting right now. I am not 100% satisfied with the fitment. The weird angle is making the bolts go in also at an angle. I wish I had the tools to slot the hole a bit.

8f7905dc655f91a0a1d34bf497c10c78.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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(yesterday) I went to a machine shop and ordered three adapters for putting my Vg30e pulley on the VG33E crankshaft, since I cannot source a Mr.510 adapter or part number 1230312G03. I will have two extras in a few weeks, with pictures to follow. I had been researching the swap before my 30 blew but I hadn't realized it was so hard to get the part. Anyone doing this swap, if you want to run your old accessory setup you will need an adapter. I should have taken the pulleys to a shop two weeks ago instead of trying to get one that Mr.510 made. That being said, I much rather would have one of his because I have utmost respect for him and his work with the wd21. I would like to support a fellow wd21 owner and onetime forum member though he evidently went quiet well before I bought a Nissan. I understand he was unwell, and I sincerely hope that he is doing better. Mr.510, wherever you are, I am thinking of you. Respect.

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What year is your QX4? I wonder if my 2002 would be eligible...

1998.

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Installed rear springs,shocks and r sway bar bushings. Also refurbished the rear end while I had most of what holds it to the car disconnected. The wire brush was my best friend LOL during this project. I also got new tires today. Well I had the tires I purchased them back in April but wanted to wait till I got all my suspension changed out before I put them on this thing rides like a Cadillac. #97JR50Queycfde59f54f32465cfab87fa40d58e703.jpg71247ff74eea19e1c098bb6da0d9d568.jpg09ad5db6bb41129a216f06d1a9ab04f2.jpg59c44ab1d5c00979f0ae1cc223ae4454.jpgf5c8f457dbd29c37c4ccac5c3dcf34f6.jpgde6ccd534e7da629d4c4d02670d9d72b.jpgc8d0e8f079f7818bf6360b0b8644e9fb.jpgdb46467bddacf39f809134438051758e.jpg0261455b1edeeaea40e9dc4a537b8386.jpg

 

Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

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Installed Eyebolts for securing cargo.

If I’m going on a trip where I’ll be off-road a lot, I like to throw a net over the cargo area to hold all the loose stuff down. My critically heavy items are camstrapped to the floor cargo tie downs, but the net just attaches to the fairly weak upper cargo points & the rear seat headrest posts if the rear seats are up.

I’ve been wanting to do the cargo tie downs for 14 years. My thought was to simply use eye bolts where the machine screws anchor in the body. Those are M6x1.0 threads, however, and metric eye bolts, particularly in stainless or zinc, are quite difficult to find. Combined with a lack of motivation, this usually stopped me. When I had a time limit to solve an essentially identical problem in my Mom’s new 4Runner I was finally forced to get it done (admittedly, testing it on the Path first).

The key was ridiculously obvious. I simply needed to rethread the frame bolts to 1/4” & I would have endless hardware options. Warning, this is an irreversible step.

You can remove the metal arms or even fold them out-I just kept them folded for now. A slightly shortened spacer would recess the eye hook some, which I would prefer, but a hardware option wasn’t readily available to me. You could also use washers instead of a spacer. If you remove the metal arm entirely, you can use a single washer for a much more recessed eye bolt-though I think it then reaches the point of being too difficult to use (you also may want a shorter eye bolt). Anyway, here is the modification for anyone who is interested.

Cargo Tie Downs:
(2 above cargo window/2 in front of tonneau cover slot)
Rethread M6x1.0 frame machine screw holes with a 1/4” tap.
Spacer-Chrome Steel 0.5x0.25” [Everbuilt] 2 pack x2
Eyebolt-Stainless Steel 0.25” x 2” (6.3x50.8mm) 160#(72.5kg ) Working Load Limit [Everbuilt] SKU372941 2 pack x2

fd6caf6a8e1256ce6bf2f52f7996aacd.jpg

82dd67cab75ee8dda39700455f552176.jpg

2f752cf8d51050d9d04b56c702cb5634.jpg

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13 hours ago, RainGoat said:

Installed Eyebolts for securing cargo.

If I’m going on a trip where I’ll be off-road a lot, I like to throw a net over the cargo area to hold all the loose stuff down. My critically heavy items are camstrapped to the floor cargo tie downs, but the net just attaches to the fairly weak upper cargo points & the rear seat headrest posts if the rear seats are up.

I’ve been wanting to do the cargo tie downs for 14 years. My thought was to simply use eye bolts where the machine screws anchor in the body. Those are M6x1.0 threads, however, and metric eye bolts, particularly in stainless or zinc, are quite difficult to find. Combined with a lack of motivation, this usually stopped me. When I had a time limit to solve an essentially identical problem in my Mom’s new 4Runner I was finally forced to get it done (admittedly, testing it on the Path first).

The key was ridiculously obvious. I simply needed to rethread the frame bolts to 1/4” & I would have endless hardware options. Warning, this is an irreversible step.

You can remove the metal arms or even fold them out-I just kept them folded for now. A slightly shortened spacer would recess the eye hook some, which I would prefer, but a hardware option wasn’t readily available to me. You could also use washers instead of a spacer. If you remove the metal arm entirely, you can use a single washer for a much more recessed eye bolt-though I think it then reaches the point of being too difficult to use (you also may want a shorter eye bolt). Anyway, here is the modification for anyone who is interested.

Cargo Tie Downs:
(2 above cargo window/2 in front of tonneau cover slot)
Rethread M6x1.0 frame machine screw holes with a 1/4” tap.
Spacer-Chrome Steel 0.5x0.25” [Everbuilt] 2 pack x2
Eyebolt-Stainless Steel 0.25” x 2” (6.3x50.8mm) 160#(72.5kg ) Working Load Limit [Everbuilt] SKU372941 2 pack x2

fd6caf6a8e1256ce6bf2f52f7996aacd.jpg

82dd67cab75ee8dda39700455f552176.jpg

2f752cf8d51050d9d04b56c702cb5634.jpg

 

I like that.  I always like having gear secured, but there's very few good options for the R50, especially if you have a rubber mat covering the tie downs in the floor, this is cool.

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Installed Eyebolts for securing cargo.

I’m still working on a clean application for the rear. I’m also working on a ceiling net & ultimately a MOLLE rack for the driver’s side cargo window. All that said, I’d rather have hawairish‘ rear cargo area rack-that thing is great!

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