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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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  • 2 weeks later...

Tonight I took my cluster apart to try and track down a buzzing noise it's been making at highway speed when it's cold. The speedo looked alright but I gave it a little grease here and there anyway. I also appreciated how simple the speed sensor is--it's literally just a reed switch sitting next to the rotating magnet that makes the needle move. The cable end had some black schmoo in it, so I suspect it may be the culprit/on its way out. I oiled it anyway, I'll see if that's shut it up the next time I have it up to speed.


Also it snowed, so of course I had to get it sideways while taking the trash out. I am pleased to report that my e-brake works a hell of a lot better since I bothered to adjust it.

 

 

On 11/29/2018 at 9:15 AM, Wacky_Pathy said:

I'm curious, whats the rev limiter set at?


Best I could find is between 6000 and 6450, with all hell breaking loose if you manage to get past 6500. Seems like an easy thing to test.

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5 hours ago, RainGoat said:

Given that you just did it, you don’t happen to know off hand where that is in the FSM do you?

 

It's in the BRake chapter, under Parking Brake Control.  There's a nut under the parking brake lever; lift it up, pop a cap, adjust nut.  Lever specs 44lbs of force after 6-8 notches.  Adjusted mine as part of the disc brake swap.

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I don't know the R50, but yeah, if you've got rear drums it should just be a cable tension adjustment. Mine's got rear disks so it's got its own little miniature drum brakes tucked inside for the parking brake, with their own star adjusters. There's also a cable tension adjustment, but it's under the truck on mine, where the cable from the lever meets the cables to the rear end. I thought the shoes were whupped until I took everything apart and found that they had just as much meat on them as the replacement parts, so I just cleaned/lubed/adjusted (having found the adjusters and realized that they were a thing!) and that brought them back to life.

 

I like how the R50 moved the cable tension to inside the cabin. That's actually a really good idea!

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Regressed all the zerks on the front end for steering and suspension. Passenger upper ball joint boot is torn. I guess it's not extremely surprising since the zerk stripped out and never worked quite correctly after but still annoying. Greased it anyways. 

Tightened more random bolts.

Just kinda waiting around for some more snow

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45 minutes ago, Charlie_Brown said:

Regressed all the zerks on the front end for steering and suspension. Passenger upper ball joint boot is torn. I guess it's not extremely surprising since the zerk stripped out and never worked quite correctly after but still annoying. Greased it anyways. 

Tightened more random bolts.

Just kinda waiting around for some more snow

 

I've never greased mine.  If I have zerk fittings I have no idea where they are.

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36 minutes ago, adamzan said:

I don’t think the R50s had greaseable parts unless replaced with aftermarket.

 

Only the front driveshaft has a zirk stock.  @Charlie_Brown has a WD21 which probably has more, but for you @AlabamaDan unless you have Moog BJ's or something you only have to worry about that front driveshaft.  It probably hasn't been done in a long time so it'll take a lot of grease I suspect.

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13 hours ago, mjotrainbrain said:

 

Only the front driveshaft has a zirk stock.  @Charlie_Brown has a WD21 which probably has more, but for you @AlabamaDan unless you have Moog BJ's or something you only have to worry about that front driveshaft.  It probably hasn't been done in a long time so it'll take a lot of grease I suspect.

 

Hmmm....  I'll look for that this weekend.

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On 12/12/2018 at 5:17 AM, adamzan said:

I don’t think the R50s had greaseable parts unless replaced with aftermarket.

Wd21 woth a 2wd 4wd r50 steering setup and moog parts. I have zerks on my UCAs, upper and lower bj, tie rod ends, centerlink idlers arm side and a few other places I cant recall off hand. All are aftermarket parts.

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Saturday I stopped by the garage of @TowndawgR50 where he was working on some of the projects he and @hawairish are planning to offer. Most of you probably don't know this, but @TowndawgR50 is an artist as well. It certainly shows in his work. That was some pretty stuff right there!

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hmm, almost wish I still lived up there :Aok:

 

 

 

Started it and let it warm up and moved it a few feet so jumper cables reach the trunk of the car. What a hell of a morning, my face hurt... now I know how all you guys feel :lol: ...went out to a dead battery in the car, pulled out the jumpack only to discover that it  was dead as well.

Got a factory battery few years ago which died just out of the full replacement period. Local dealer just swapped it for a new one that had been on the shelf too long to still be sold. Rather than charging me nearly full price under the pro-rate remaining

Looks like I got almost a year out of that one, going to have to break down and buy one now though. :thumbsdown:

 

But the Pathy started right up, as usual, and eagerly jump-started the car!

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Added 3 quarts of engine oil to my car, apparently it burns oil. It’s only been 3k miles since my last oil change, but the dipstick was entirely dry when I checked this morning. Also scored a deal on some kc lights for my backup light project

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Added 3 quarts of engine oil to my car, apparently it burns oil. It’s only been 3k miles since my last oil change, but the dipstick was entirely dry when I checked this morning. Also scored a deal on some kc lights for my backup light project

I think I remember reading something about replacing the PCV valve and it helping it but I added some Lucas oil additive stuff last oil change and it helped with the burning, mine burns quite a bit
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  • 2 weeks later...

Cylinder on the clutch went out. I'm thinking it's the master since I can see where something has leaked around the firewall of it. Carpet dry though. Checked slave and seemed fine but who knows. Once master is swapped we will see for sure. Bummer

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