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Stranded, won't start


porsche4786
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That sucks!!

 

The add you posted looks favorable, relatively low mileage and seems like an honest representation. It might be worth checking out. Motors vary but can be had for $500 or so, they you have the old one to either build up or just scavenge for parts. ;)

 

I have a motor with 132k on it (runs flawlessly) in my part out vehicle, but it might be too far from you to deal with. :shrug:

 

B

 

A mechanic/automotive machine shop guy (who I've heard is pretty knowledgeable), think I should put it back together with a new belt and tensioner, see if it runs. Check compression and do a leak down test, he says that will tell me what valves are bent and other problems, and that he could replace valves and such (I'd be taking the heads off). I don't know what kinda money he's thinking, but I'm guessing somewhere around $500. Since I've put soo much time and money into this thing, I'd like to try and keep it....But thinking about another vehicle for a daily driver for the next month or however long it takes me. Then probably sell it when I'm done and feel confident in the pathfinder. Also found a nice lookin 79 Ford F150... http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2150470866.html

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Those tires don't look brand new...

 

Maybe you could get a car that is good on gas for the time being that would save you even more cash.

 

Funny thing about tires....When I was first looking for a pathfinder last year, this chick said the tires were brand new. I went and looked at the truck, the tires were bald, they were off road tires, and the sides still had rubber sticking out on them, but the rest of the tire was gone. I was like, so how new are these tires? Like 40,000 miles ago new? lol

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A mechanic/automotive machine shop guy (who I've heard is pretty knowledgeable), think I should put it back together with a new belt and tensioner, see if it runs. Check compression and do a leak down test, he says that will tell me what valves are bent and other problems, and that he could replace valves and such (I'd be taking the heads off). I don't know what kinda money he's thinking, but I'm guessing somewhere around $500. Since I've put soo much time and money into this thing, I'd like to try and keep it....But thinking about another vehicle for a daily driver for the next month or however long it takes me. Then probably sell it when I'm done and feel confident in the pathfinder. Also found a nice lookin 79 Ford F150... http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2150470866.html

When I bought my pathfinder it ran like crap. The timing belt was so loose it was slapping on the cover. I ran a compression check on it first thing and had one cylinder with only 30 psi. I figured a valve was leaking but thought it will just have to run like that for now. After changing the timing belt it now has 180 psi per cylinder all almost perfectly even. So even though the belt hadn't jumped a tooth it was still affecting the cam timing and compression.

I agree with your mechanic friend, try putting a belt on it first before writing it off as dead.

James

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When I bought my pathfinder it ran like crap. The timing belt was so loose it was slapping on the cover. I ran a compression check on it first thing and had one cylinder with only 30 psi. I figured a valve was leaking but thought it will just have to run like that for now. After changing the timing belt it now has 180 psi per cylinder all almost perfectly even. So even though the belt hadn't jumped a tooth it was still affecting the cam timing and compression.

I agree with your mechanic friend, try putting a belt on it first before writing it off as dead.

James

 

I got it to run! And I have 140/145psi in every cylinder, when engine is cold. I did do something bad though....apparently it matters which screw you put into the very bottom of the bottom timing cover (I used one with a rubber thing on it, and I had one screw that didn't have rubber on it, which came off the bottom). And the harmonic balancer rubs on it...and when I put the harmonic balancer on, it pushed the screw back, and cracked the aluminum behind the timing cover....so, I guess I'll maybe put some JB weld on it, it doesn't appear to have caused damage to the seal above, which I think is against the oil pan?

 

Forgot to add, I'm getting a code 21

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I got it to run! And I have 140/145psi in every cylinder, when engine is cold. I did do something bad though....apparently it matters which screw you put into the very bottom of the bottom timing cover (I used one with a rubber thing on it, and I had one screw that didn't have rubber on it, which came off the bottom). And the harmonic balancer rubs on it...and when I put the harmonic balancer on, it pushed the screw back, and cracked the aluminum behind the timing cover....so, I guess I'll maybe put some JB weld on it, it doesn't appear to have caused damage to the seal above, which I think is against the oil pan?

 

Forgot to add, I'm getting a code 21

Thats great news, talk about dodging a bullet! Lucky for you the belt jumped instead of breaking.

Sounds like you broke a boss off the oil pump. I would think as long as there is no oil leak and the timing cover isn't rubbing on anything it should be alright.

According to the haynes manual code 21 is something about the primary ignition signal that the dealer needs to fix. I would just try to reset the computer and go from there.

James

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Thats great news, talk about dodging a bullet! Lucky for you the belt jumped instead of breaking.

Sounds like you broke a boss off the oil pump. I would think as long as there is no oil leak and the timing cover isn't rubbing on anything it should be alright.

According to the haynes manual code 21 is something about the primary ignition signal that the dealer needs to fix. I would just try to reset the computer and go from there.

James

 

 

Yeah, I was very surprised I didn't hear bad noises. They really make that timing cover close to the balancer....I knew I was putting the wrong screw in that hole, but I didn't expect anything like that. I didn't see any leaks after it warmed up and drove it around the block. I screwed the correct screw in and I think the timing cover will help support it temporarily for the next 50k miles. :lol: I didn't bring her home last night, so we'll see what happens with a longer drive. As I was driving home last night I realized that I did my compression check with the coil unplugged.....must be the cause for the code. I was doing some reading in the FSM also, and I found that the check light is supposed to come on when key is on, for bulb check. So my bulb is probably out....or somebody unplugged/broke it.

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Sweet!! Nothing wrong with that!! Ya got lucky so far Bud... :aok:

 

B

 

This morning I was letting it idle while putting stuff back together inside, and when I was putting the white/clear cover on the plug that goes into the computer, I noticed the engine would backfire when I pushed on the wires, and then I pushed more on that same spot with little pressure and the engine died, I went to start it again, nothing, I pushed on the wires, tried to start again, and it started right up, then the rpm gauge died, then it would come back on when I wiggled the wires around. I tightened the plug a little more and it seemed to have stopped, I couldn't get it to do any of that stuff again. And no more codes. So I'm hoping everything is fine now. I might get a photo of the damage I did and post it later. See what you guys think. Thanks for all the help everybody! I really appreciate it!!!

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