Alkorahil Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 (edited) 55: NO malfunctions I agree with Kingman and a few others. The camshaft position sensor in the distributor is bad. And it wont throw a code. Edited January 5, 2011 by Alkorahil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 5, 2011 Author Share Posted January 5, 2011 55: NO malfunctions I agree with Kingman and a few others. The camshaft position sensor in the distributor is bad. And it wont throw a code. I'm going to attempt to get to a junk yard tomorrow and get one or two and try them....that is, if I can get off work... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Pathmaker Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 I got it pulled out, and was going to test it like the FSM says, but there is no way to get a meter to touch the terminals with the connector connected. (Like on page EC-133) I forget exactly what it looks like, but where the wires go into the distributer there are a couple of screws you can take out then you can slide the pins from the meter under the rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 I checked the ECM in mode 3 and got 55 Well, it never hurts to try... It sounds like you are on the right track now. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Well, it never hurts to try... It sounds like you are on the right track now. B I sure hope so, possible snow in the forecast for this weekend, and my rx-7 ain't gonna cut it! I'm gonna be pretty upset if it snows and I'm stuck at home, after buying new wheels and tires and chains..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasPathfinder Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 I sure hope so, possible snow in the forecast for this weekend, and my rx-7 ain't gonna cut it! I'm gonna be pretty upset if it snows and I'm stuck at home, after buying new wheels and tires and chains..... Maybe if you replace your 13B to a VG30 on your avatar, your Pathfinder will love you again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 (edited) Maybe if you replace your 13B to a VG30 on your avatar, your Pathfinder will love you again. Rotary's are my true love. I'm not sure I can do that. Edited January 6, 2011 by porsche4786 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 I got it pulled out, and was going to test it like the FSM says, but there is no way to get a meter to touch the terminals with the connector connected. (Like on page EC-133) I just stuck pins through the wire insulation and connected my multimeter to those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 (edited) Ok, I just put in the new (used) distributor. I have the fuel pump fuse removed because I didn't want to keep on pumping fuel into the engine when trying to start it. It will sputter and sound like it wants fuel, so I put the fuse in, turn key to on and then proceed to start. But it won't, and the sputtering slows down when (when the fuel pump fuse is installed). I removed the #1 and #3 spark plugs and they smell like gas, and are now more black than they were the other day. EDIT: It's possible that I may have not had the engine really at TDC on the compression stroke. What if I had it on the exhaust stroke? How do you determine #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke with your distributor removed, or in the wrong position? The timing marks on the main pulley? (where you check with a timing light?) Edited January 6, 2011 by porsche4786 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 I exploded my muffler by having my ignition timing 180 degrees off If you have your distributor out, I think the easiest way to figure out #1TDC on the compression stroke is to remove the passenger side valve cover. Then line up the marks on the crank pulley. If all the valves are closed then you are at the WRONG place. If NOT all the valves are closed then you are at #1TDC on compression stroke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 Would it be normal to be able to see part of a valve thru the #1 spark plug hole? I can see the edge of one (I'm guessing exhaust, since it's when the piston is up) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 take it back out and turn it 180*? Hell I dont have the slightest clue where the timing is set on my 4runner, I timed it by vaccuum! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Pathmaker Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22081&st=0&p=389718entry389718 This worked for me when I changed mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyButTrusty Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 I don't know if this has anything to do with the problem you're having, but check to see that the EGR valve is not stuck open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 (edited) I don't know if this has anything to do with the problem you're having, but check to see that the EGR valve is not stuck open. It's not stuck, I can push it up, then it returns down. I also found the resistor/condenser and it tests good. edit: I went to U pull it and got another dizzy. Got home, took it apart to find that somebody has screwed with it already, because the screws that hold part of the sensor inside are gone and the tabs are broken, so it's barely holding itself together. Now this makes me think the other one I got is bad too, because it was full of debris and what looked like metal filings. Going to try another U pull it. Edited January 8, 2011 by porsche4786 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 It's not stuck, I can push it up, then it returns down. I also found the resistor/condenser and it tests good. edit: I went to U pull it and got another dizzy. Got home, took it apart to find that somebody has screwed with it already, because the screws that hold part of the sensor inside are gone and the tabs are broken, so it's barely holding itself together. Now this makes me think the other one I got is bad too, because it was full of debris and what looked like metal filings. Going to try another U pull it. Ok, went down to work to try some more things. Tried a computer from a 1993 with an auto transmission, from what I could find on here, people have had success with using auto transmission computers with a manual transmission swap. Still nothing, tried the used dizzy that was kinda broken. I got it to sound like it really wants to start (more than before) but when I put the fuel pump fuse back in it just gets worse. Like it's getting flooded or something. One thing that is kinda weird, is that when I turn my key to "ON" the check engine light doesn't light up. In most cars, the check engine light turns on when you turn the key to on, then goes out when the car starts. I also tried unplugging the MAF sensor and cranking it, and I get no codes. Or check engine lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 (edited) Ok, went down to work to try some more things. Tried a computer from a 1993 with an auto transmission, from what I could find on here, people have had success with using auto transmission computers with a manual transmission swap. Still nothing, tried the used dizzy that was kinda broken. I got it to sound like it really wants to start (more than before) but when I put the fuel pump fuse back in it just gets worse. Like it's getting flooded or something. One thing that is kinda weird, is that when I turn my key to "ON" the check engine light doesn't light up. In most cars, the check engine light turns on when you turn the key to on, then goes out when the car starts. I also tried unplugging the MAF sensor and cranking it, and I get no codes. Or check engine lights. I found a little black wire that comes off of a little widget that screws onto the alternator. I'm not sure what it is, but the wire is not connected to it. Never mind, it's a condenser for the radio... Edited January 10, 2011 by porsche4786 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 (edited) Well, the timing belt is intact (hopefully it didn't just jump), you have fuel, and it's pretty hard not to have air, so just about the only things left are compression or spark. You changed the coil so perhaps you have a break in the coil wire, or the rotor is burnt down, or... One thing you may want to try is to loosen the dizzy as if you are going to adjust the ignition timing (after marking it's position well) and rotating it while trying to start the pathy. If the belt jumped, the dizzy may need to be reset to get it to fire. Maybe the crank angle sensor in the dizzy?? Have you checked the ECU for codes yet?? B I'm just going back over everything on here...what exactly do you mean by reset the dizzy? This is very weird, because it sounds like it wants to start sooo bad, until you put the fuel pump fuse in, it just sounds like it gets flooded....or the timing is off. But if the timing was off, wouldn't a valve be open while it's trying to compress? I'm going to try and test compression this morning. I did try starter fluid a few times, and it won't run on that either. Also, I tried cranking it yesterday with the coil unplugged and the computer thew a code, but didn't give me a check engine light. I've tried unplugging other things to see if it would throw a code, and it wouldn't. Edited January 11, 2011 by porsche4786 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 I'm just going back over everything on here...what exactly do you mean by reset the dizzy? This is very weird, because it sounds like it wants to start sooo bad, until you put the fuel pump fuse in, it just sounds like it gets flooded....or the timing is off. But if the timing was off, wouldn't a valve be open while it's trying to compress? I'm going to try and test compression this morning. I did try starter fluid a few times, and it won't run on that either. Also, I tried cranking it yesterday with the coil unplugged and the computer thew a code, but didn't give me a check engine light. I've tried unplugging other things to see if it would throw a code, and it wouldn't. Sorry for all the replies to myself, lol. Zero compression in cylinders 1,3, and 2. Didn't check the rest, but that was enough for me to guess timing belt splipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Damn, no compression what so ever?? Well, with a little bit of luck the valves are still open on the compression stroke but nothing has hit and all that it needs is a new timing belt and re clocking of all the pulleys. what exactly do you mean by reset the dizzy? This is very weird, because it sounds like it wants to start sooo bad, until you put the fuel pump fuse in, it just sounds like it gets flooded....or the timing is off. Well, I didn't say that very well, did I? What I was trying to say is that you might have to rotate the dizzy to significantly change the timing to get it to try to fire if the timing belt has slipped. At this point it sounds like you have to dig in and determine how much the T belt jumped. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 Damn, no compression what so ever?? Well, with a little bit of luck the valves are still open on the compression stroke but nothing has hit and all that it needs is a new timing belt and re clocking of all the pulleys. Well, I didn't say that very well, did I? What I was trying to say is that you might have to rotate the dizzy to significantly change the timing to get it to try to fire if the timing belt has slipped. At this point it sounds like you have to dig in and determine how much the T belt jumped. B I checked for compression, I have none. Only checked cylinders 1, 3, and 2. I pulled the front apart and got the upper timing belt cover off, I can't get the camshaft timing marks to line up with the piston (thru spark plug hole) at TDC. I will pull off the main pulley and remove the lower cover after lunch. Belt looks fine.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 (edited) Damn, no compression what so ever?? Well, with a little bit of luck the valves are still open on the compression stroke but nothing has hit and all that it needs is a new timing belt and re clocking of all the pulleys. Well, I didn't say that very well, did I? What I was trying to say is that you might have to rotate the dizzy to significantly change the timing to get it to try to fire if the timing belt has slipped. At this point it sounds like you have to dig in and determine how much the T belt jumped. B Somehow I missed your first line of response. Yeah, non, nada, zip. Needle didn't even budge. So I'm hoping it's all ok. But I don't have a chain wrench or anything to get a grip on the harmonic balancer to get the big bolt off on the crankshaft. So it will probably be tomorrow.... I'd say I'm pretty damn lucky to be able to get paid to work on my own truck all day, for the past week. lol Edited January 11, 2011 by porsche4786 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Yeah, I'll agree to that (you are lucky)!! IIRC the crank bolt is 27mm (1&1/16") and put a breaker bar on it that is braced on top of the frame, disconnect the coil wire for safety and just bump the starter once, it will break the bolt loose without fuss. Better check the rotation of the motor to make sure you are bracing the breaker bar the right direction though, my memory is faulty in my old age... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 (edited) Yeah, I'll agree to that (you are lucky)!! IIRC the crank bolt is 27mm (1&1/16") and put a breaker bar on it that is braced on top of the frame, disconnect the coil wire for safety and just bump the starter once, it will break the bolt loose without fuss. Better check the rotation of the motor to make sure you are bracing the breaker bar the right direction though, my memory is faulty in my old age... B lol, I might just wait. But I have my doubts about this damn thing. I pulled the #3 plug and I can see the piston come up and touch a valve when I turn it by hand. (yes, it is painful to watch). Especially since I just put $900 worth of tires and wheels into it. Not to mention the hundreds of dollars in other parts. So I'm going to see how much an engine goes for. There isn't much on craigslist for sale right now, and I'd like to stick with the pathfinder so I can rob the things I just bought for this truck. Lots of them are auto's, and I just can't do that. Here's about the only things that's somewhat interesting... http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/2153343417.html Edited January 11, 2011 by porsche4786 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 That sucks!! The add you posted looks favorable, relatively low mileage and seems like an honest representation. It might be worth checking out. Motors vary but can be had for $500 or so, they you have the old one to either build up or just scavenge for parts. I have a motor with 132k on it (runs flawlessly) in my part out vehicle, but it might be too far from you to deal with. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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