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Clutch Replacement Cost

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My clutch needs replacement so I just called the local Meineke and they wanted $816 for the labor (going to order a Centerforce clutch and have someone install it). Said it was 10 hours of labor. All sounds ridiculous to me. Anyone have an idea of a fair price to do the install?

 

Also, he said it is good idea while you are in there to replace the flywheel and the rear engine seal. Is this a bunch of bull? Thanks.

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Meineke sucks indeed

Rear engine seal is a good idea though but forget the flywheel

 

I would say it is around 5 hours of work, not 10

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i've done several of them and it takes all weekend in a wd 21.

i'm betting these are a little bit easier.

 

don't waste your money on a centerforce clutch.

I'm on #2 clutch at 365K. i put the second one in 3.5 years ago, i've smoked it several times and still no problems.

 

I'll guarantee i put my clutch through more abuse than most.

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x2 Stock clutches are the best option for the pathfinder.

Look over on N4W if you don't belive me. Manya a person has burned thru a centerforce all too quick.

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x2 Stock clutches are the best option for the pathfinder.

Look over on N4W if you don't belive me. Manya a person has burned thru a centerforce all too quick.

 

 

i had a nissan tech tell me, and i quote "i've seen them worn out after over 250k miles.. but i've never seen a nissan cluth FAIL."

 

I havn't either

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I bought this truck with 95k miles on it and it supposedly just had a new clutch installed. I trust the guy I bought it from and he gave me the receipt (will look at it when I get home to see how much it cost), but I wonder if he got jacked because I'm at 145k now and the bearing won't shut up and sometimes it's hard to get it in gear. The bearing has made some noise before, but I just recently started towing a boat and now I hear it all the time. So the stock clutch is better than a Centerforce Stage II? I just thought it would make more sense with the boat and offroading and stuff.

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I bought this truck with 95k miles on it and it supposedly just had a new clutch installed. I trust the guy I bought it from and he gave me the receipt (will look at it when I get home to see how much it cost), but I wonder if he got jacked because I'm at 145k now and the bearing won't shut up and sometimes it's hard to get it in gear. The bearing has made some noise before, but I just recently started towing a boat and now I hear it all the time. So the stock clutch is better than a Centerforce Stage II? I just thought it would make more sense with the boat and offroading and stuff.

 

 

you need to find out what he did to the clutch.

did he replace the friction disk

did he replace the pressure plate

did he resurface the flywheel

did he replace the pilot bushing

did he replace the throwout bearing?

 

 

I know a stock kit for a 3.0 is 200 bucks (approx)

and another 30-40 for getting the flywheel resurfaced.

 

if he did all this, the clutch should be good for a long time.

and if he needed to change the clutch at only 95k.. he needs to learn how to drive a clutch.

 

the centerforce is not necessary

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Found a kit that says it is OEM. Exedy is the brand. Are they the OEM manufacturer for the clutches?

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i looked on mitchell and it said it took 8 hours to do the pressure plate so im probably guessing it is a 10hours job but i doubt it will take 10hrs cuase my co worker is out libe mechanic and i seen him do one in like 4 hours on a 2 door

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i looked on mitchell and it said it took 8 hours to do the pressure plate so im probably guessing it is a 10hours job but i doubt it will take 10hrs cuase my co worker is out libe mechanic and i seen him do one in like 4 hours on a 2 door

 

4 hours on a wd 21.

 

complete BS.

 

i can do it on mine in about 4 but i don't have to remove all the ifs stuff.

 

if you ONLY do the pressure plate.. your a dumb ass

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Listen to 87pathy. And believe me when i say that removing the trans on a stock suspension wd21 is a PITA. You gotta lower the front diff and remove the tbars.

 

On an r50 it should be pretty easy though cause there are none. And yes go with a stock clutch I know people that have well over 500k on the original nissan clutch.

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The front diff can stay right where it is.

 

What needs to be removed is all the under bracing including the brace for the diff, torsion bars, starter, bracketing, exhaust y-pipe, axles, shift linkage, and a few other little things I can't remember. It's a royal pain in the ass.

 

In my opinion it's easier to remove the engine.

 

I just installed an Exedy clutch with my new motor, we'll see how well it works. Exedy has been around for a long, long time...

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ya, on a scok wd21, you have to pull the torsion bars, cross member and posibly exhaust.

 

the last one i did we coldn't pull the tranny back cause the top hit on the firewall, and the bottom caught on the cross pipe.

 

we ended up removing it from teh manifold on 1 side, and cutting it ont he other side.

then i welded it back together when we were done.

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4 hours on a wd 21.

 

complete BS.

 

i can do it on mine in about 4 but i don't have to remove all the ifs stuff.

 

if you ONLY do the pressure plate.. your a dumb ass

 

 

okay sorry master tech! why dont you go check your shop estimator you have at work and look up the labor rate for the clutch job.? and tell me that it dosent say 7.8 hours to do Im just writing what it says it may not take8 hours on a r50 but thats what the labor rate says

 

 

and i probably didnt word it right in my first post but i doubt someone is just going to do the pressure plate.

Edited by ANDY

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i had a nissan tech tell me, and i quote "i've seen them worn out after over 250k miles.. but i've never seen a nissan cluth FAIL."

 

I havn't either

 

I have killed a Nissan clutch in my 2wd D21 with the KA24E. It was the original Exedy branded stock clutch and one of the springs in the clutch plate broke and lodged in the fingers of the pressure plate. That is my only Nissan clutch failure and I have driven a lot of them.

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okay sorry master tech! why dont you go check your shop estimator you have at work and look up the labor rate for the clutch job.? and tell me that it dosent say 7.8 hours to do Im just writing what it says it may not take8 hours on a r50 but thats what the labor rate says

 

 

and i probably didnt word it right in my first post but i doubt someone is just going to do the pressure plate.

 

didi say you couldn;t do it in 7.8?

 

no i didn't i said you couldn't do itin 4..

so unwad your panties.

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didi say you couldn;t do it in 7.8?

 

no i didn't i said you couldn't do itin 4..

so unwad your panties.

 

 

 

 

I never said i could do it, did i? and just cause i know someone that can do it in 4 hours dont get mad dude cause it takes you the same with no ifs stuff in the way ..dbag

Edited by ANDY

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Whoa, calm down people...

 

No need for calling names.

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yeah im over it ill let master tech cry about it

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I was on a road trip and the t/o bearing went on me. It cost 1200 for the clutch replacement and labor. This was in New York but I had had the same job quoted in Ohio for about the same price so I'm thinking that the quote you got was pretty reasonable. It's my understanding that it is a real PITA of a job.

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Listen to 87pathy. And believe me when i say that removing the trans on a stock suspension wd21 is a PITA. You gotta lower the front diff and remove the tbars.

 

On an r50 it should be pretty easy though cause there are none. And yes go with a stock clutch I know people that have well over 500k on the original nissan clutch.

 

Well that's pretty dang interesting....I'll first state that yes I DO know how to use a clutch....but I am original owner of a '97 SE and I replaced original clutch in 2003 at 70K miles....put the next one in about 40K miles later in fall of 2007....zoiks! Both done at dealer...I'm thinking if it fails again I should do it myself.

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I'm at 125,000 miles, still on original clutch. I did replace the release bearing myself at 100,000 miles because it was making a whine. I couldn't see paying a mechanic $800 to replace a $40 part. Of course, it did take me well over 10 hours to do, even though I had access to a full shop including hydraulic lift, transmission jack, and every tool I needed. It is a PITA to drop the transmission. Had to remove the exhaust from the catalytic converters back because the tranny wouldn't clear it by about 2 inches. Also, that top bolt on the bell housing is a bitch to get to if you don't have a REALLY long extension for your wrench. Had to stand all the way at the back by the rear driveshaft with a 4-foot extension on the ratchet to get at the right angle.

 

--Howie

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