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Well, to start off, I have a 1995 pathy XE 3.0 5 speed manual 2WD.

My pathy feels like it has no power any more, or less than it had. It lived in Florida it's whole life until I got it as a gift and had it shipped to Texas.

I really want to restore the power with out breaking the bank.

How do I do this?

I know that a high flow exhaust will help, but going to flowmaster's and magnaflow's website, I can't find any exhaust parts for my car. I need the whole exhaust system replaced, including the cat. What system do you think would be best for it when it's just used as a daily driver? 2.5? 2.25?

Also, I know that paring highflow exhaust with highflow intake works to. What kind of highflow intake do you guys recommend?

What else can I do to get the power back, if not increase it to above it's original?

 

On a side note, is it possible to drop a 6-speed manual to replace the 5-speed manual I have? 3500RPM is not very pleasant while driving around 70MPH... :/

 

I'm just a 17 year old kid hopin to keep it running through college, so Any help would be awesome. Any help not breaking the bank would be best.

 

PS- How could I get my pathy to look good? New paint job? Custom body?

Edited by goldeneye123454321
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all this has been covered but here's some ideas;

thorley or pacesetter headders

the only exhaust system out there is made by gibson but if you think 3500 RPM is unpleasant now than you should stay away from that.

get a magniflow cat and Magniflow turbo series muffler(tailoring to your pleasnt sound needs) all pipe should be 2.25, it will have to be custom done.

 

A 6 speed will not bolt to your engine. Even if it did your underpowered VG is best keept above 3k rpm on the freeway. They do make 4.10 gears for the diff and that may give you a lesser done on the freeway but they will also break the bank.

Splitting your ehxhaust @ the muffler (1 inlet 2 outlet) may help pleasant sound as the resonance can cancel itslef out.

 

Look good, thats all you If you do what we say its not really yours...

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Either, I'm really drunk, or you were really drunk. cause that post didn't make much sense to me.

 

Sadly, nothing can really be done to these trucks that won't break the bank of a poor college kid. Modding a vehicle is best left after college. Our intakes already flow more than the engine can handle, that has been proven here on the board, someone did a bench flow test on it. As for the exhaust, go to any exhaust/muffler shop and tell them you want a custom 2.25" exhaust system made up for it. This, of course, is after you buy your headers and a new muffler.

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Do a tuneup. New air-filter/fuel-filter/plugs/cap/rotor/wires/ignition timing will do wonders. Run a couple bottles of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner through the system. Techron will also clean your exhaust valves off. Its the only fuel additive I've ever used that actually worked. It's not cheap, but you're not wasting your money. Change your oil and filter. Change the transmission and rear differential lubricants. Lubricate your driveshaft U-joints, or consider replacing them with new ones that have a grease fitting. By now, they are most likely worn out unless your truck has super low mileage. Insure your tires are properly inflated. All the above optimizes efficiency and power and reduces friction. After you have the basics covered, make sure your catalytic converter isn't clogged, and based on your post, that seems possible. 2.25" for a stock engine is more than adequate. Get the rust hole that commonly forms in the floor pan above the stock catalytic converter repaired. That occurs even on pathfinders not in the rust belt, thought it is less common. That lets in an enormous amount of road and engine noise. Make sure all your door weatherstripping is in good shape to seal out road noise. If you want something quiet on the highway, don't waste your money on cone style filters. They only make power when you are running wide open, and 99% of the time you're not, but the filters are still noisy. Get a couple cans of undercoating and spray the front and rear wheel wells. Take car of any rust and make sure its dry so you don't trap water and cause rust. Install some dynamat on the doors, then on the firewall and then on the floor pan. Do the work in stages until you are happy with the sound level. Thorley headers cost more, but are easier to install, and are much better built. I've run pacesetters and thorleys. For max power, but minimal highway noise, talk to your exhaust installer about installing a 2.5" cat and then the stock muffler from a suburban or a tahoe. Those units are designed to make good power with an engine twice the size of the vg30e, and without a lot of noise. A stock replacement muffler for a 2004 suburban is $35, and can flow enough to support 295hp, about 2x what a stock vg30 can make. You'll maximize what your truck can do without attracting thieves or the cops. As far as appearance goes its a matter of personal taste, but stock alloys from a supercharged xterra look nice, will bolt right up, and not cost a million bucks. Some people like Infinti QX4 rims also. I'm not into bling, and there's really not much in the way of body kits and such, but keeping it clean and waxed, and making sure everything is repaired and kept in order makes much more of a difference than wacky paint jobs, and modifications you'll soon regret dumping loads of money into, that can make your truck worth a lot less when its time to sell.

 

My $0.02. Good luck.

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I agree, tune up first. It is amazing what a simple plug/wire/cap/rotor change will do. Techron is good stuff, and I have had good experiences with Seafoam, introduced via the vacuum system. Service all of your fluids, especially your transmission.

 

Cone filters are up for debate, but a properly installed higher than normal flow exhaust is complimented by a high flow intake. (Same air in, same out.)

 

The idea regarding the GM muffler is a good one. And you would not attract bacon as he already stated. (Although the only times I have ever stopped someone for loud exhaust was when they were acting stupid, not just the noise.)

 

Painting your wheels makes a HUGE difference.

 

As for styling, make it your own, and enjoy it...

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ZTune up,Intake(CAI) headers,and 2.25 exhausht with a 2.25 glass pack at the stock local.It'll sound great with a lot of burbling when you let of the gas and cost.Change the rear gears to 4.3 if there not already,that'll help keep the rpm down as well and going to a size bigger tire.

 

The chevy muffler would be a good idea,but I think its just to big,there what 2.75 or 3 inchs,way to much for even a built 3.0,it would kill the torqe.And there big,there a good 30 inchs long and heavy.A good glasspack is still cheaper and would probly last longer since its not as big.But if glass packs are illegal in your state then you should look at a decent turbo style muffler,like a thrush or cherrybomb.

Edited by nismothunder
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Custom body parts are limited to bumpers and fiber glass fenders and hood.If it was me I'd look at just a hood because the fenders dont hold onto the rad like the stock ones do.Rihno line the under side of the fiber glass,it makes it much more ridged and you wont get as much flex in it at high way speeds.

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The torque effect is affected by the design of the header, and size of the crossover pipe and catalytic converter. By the time the exhaust pulses get to the muffler, all you are really looking for is to not restrict flow. I used to be a flowmaster/glasspack fan, but as I've gotten older, I want something I can drive into the campground at 2am without waking anyone up, and it makes cross-country trips way more pleasant, but without sacrificing power. I highly recommend reading Scientific Design of Exhaust and Intake Systems by Smith and Morrison, 3rd ed.You don't have to do the math unless you want to, but even just reading it will definitely help you understand what a custom exhaust should be doing for you.

Edited by RJSquirrel
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Ima second what RJ said...as I have gotten older (ima never grow up!) I have wanted quieter and quieter vehicles...

 

My pathy is no different...although I would like to have the flow...hahaha

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I have stock exhaust piping, but I did replace the muffler with a cherrybomb. I like it, it's nice and quiet until I lay into the skinny pedal. I do plan on replacing the entire exhaust system eventually though. DT Header, high flow cat, 2.25" piping.

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Do a tuneup. New air-filter/fuel-filter/plugs/cap/rotor/wires/ignition timing will do wonders. Run a couple bottles of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner through the system. Techron will also clean your exhaust valves off. Its the only fuel additive I've ever used that actually worked. It's not cheap, but you're not wasting your money. Change your oil and filter. Change the transmission and rear differential lubricants. Lubricate your driveshaft U-joints, or consider replacing them with new ones that have a grease fitting. By now, they are most likely worn out unless your truck has super low mileage. Insure your tires are properly inflated. All the above optimizes efficiency and power and reduces friction. After you have the basics covered, make sure your catalytic converter isn't clogged, and based on your post, that seems possible. 2.25" for a stock engine is more than adequate. Get the rust hole that commonly forms in the floor pan above the stock catalytic converter repaired. That occurs even on pathfinders not in the rust belt, thought it is less common. That lets in an enormous amount of road and engine noise. Make sure all your door weatherstripping is in good shape to seal out road noise. If you want something quiet on the highway, don't waste your money on cone style filters. They only make power when you are running wide open, and 99% of the time you're not, but the filters are still noisy. Get a couple cans of undercoating and spray the front and rear wheel wells. Take car of any rust and make sure its dry so you don't trap water and cause rust. Install some dynamat on the doors, then on the firewall and then on the floor pan. Do the work in stages until you are happy with the sound level. Thorley headers cost more, but are easier to install, and are much better built. I've run pacesetters and thorleys. For max power, but minimal highway noise, talk to your exhaust installer about installing a 2.5" cat and then the stock muffler from a suburban or a tahoe. Those units are designed to make good power with an engine twice the size of the vg30e, and without a lot of noise. A stock replacement muffler for a 2004 suburban is $35, and can flow enough to support 295hp, about 2x what a stock vg30 can make. You'll maximize what your truck can do without attracting thieves or the cops. As far as appearance goes its a matter of personal taste, but stock alloys from a supercharged xterra look nice, will bolt right up, and not cost a million bucks. Some people like Infinti QX4 rims also. I'm not into bling, and there's really not much in the way of body kits and such, but keeping it clean and waxed, and making sure everything is repaired and kept in order makes much more of a difference than wacky paint jobs, and modifications you'll soon regret dumping loads of money into, that can make your truck worth a lot less when its time to sell.

 

My $0.02. Good luck.

Wow, thanks so much rj!

This was the kind of post I'm looking for! :D

 

Your two cents is worth more than a dollar to me. Lol

 

And ever one else, thanks a bunch!

This is exactly why I like thi place

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Yea man, the 40 series is way loud and ricey on these rigs. 60 series was designed specifically for the ricer that wants a flowmaster...

 

Youtube has some great sound bits of Nissan's with different mufflers...

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what is the deal with the 2.25" piping anyway

this is a small 3 liter v6 engine its pointless to go 2.25" unless you want sound and higher rpms lol

you can get a flowmaster 60 in 2.00" and the stock 2.00" pipe can bolt up to the thorley headers with no problems

i highly recommend a magnaflow cat if your cat is not good

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The stock exhaust is 2" OD. And whereas they may be 3 liter v6's they still need to be able to flow better. This truck has the same exhaust piping that my 1.8L 4 cylinder mazda had.

 

2.25" ID exhaust piping would make it sound nicer, and perform better on the freeway.

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what is the deal with the 2.25" piping anyway

this is a small 3 liter v6 engine its pointless to go 2.25" unless you want sound and higher rpms lol

you can get a flowmaster 60 in 2.00" and the stock 2.00" pipe can bolt up to the thorley headers with no problems

i highly recommend a magnaflow cat if your cat is not good

The stock exhaust is 2" OD. And whereas they may be 3 liter v6's they still need to be able to flow better. This truck has the same exhaust piping that my 1.8L 4 cylinder mazda had.

 

2.25" ID exhaust piping would make it sound nicer, and perform better on the freeway.

i thought 1.75" was what nissan used scratchheadyellow.gif

Ok SET everyone straight,

stock exhaust is 1.875" OD or 45mm ID because thats how they did it in japan.

OE Replacement is 2" Becuase its cheaper to produce.

 

And the deal with 2.25 is this, Thorley headders exit 2.25, magnaflow cats for our rig are also 2.25 so when you build a whole system using 1 size your polly gonna use 2.25.

I have re-done my exhuast over half a dozen times and felt what was differant each time. 2.25 really doesn't rob you, In fact it helps a little up top.

The reason big pipes slow you is becuase when gases explands it cools down and slows down. so hot fast exhaust pulses collide with slow moving cold gases and it creates a trubulance...

...the chain reaction leads to your engine sucking in less air and sometimes burning more fuel.

 

So 2" or 2.25" ARE BOTH FINE just don't go bigger.

Edited by MY1PATH
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oups yea 1.875" OD or 45mm ID is the stock diameter

the thorleys do exit in 2.25" but if you want to save money on not building a custom pipe you can use 2.00" as it will bolt on without issues

the flowmaster 60 is sold in 2.00" and 2.25"

the magnaflow catalytic converters are available in 2.00" and 2.25"

 

if you want to go the custom route, be careful as you may have clearance issues near the transmission crossmember and near the fuel tank

Edited by Tungsten
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The vg30 is not a rocket ship by any means. It has no bottom end from my experience. It does love the midrange and does ok up top. I have put a resonator from a 350z on mine and it sounds great. Small improvement. I have a JWT intake to install next and all the parts to do the tune up. I think at 225k the motor is just tired. Save for the 3.3 or 3.5 swap if you want to go fast ricky bobby. :treadmill:

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The 3.0 is a great engine that lasts a long time.A few members on hear have 300k on them before they rebuilt them.A simple bottle brush hone and new rings will work great toward renewing performance if the cylinders arent groove at the top or pitted.So while its not going to be a rocket after being rebuilt it is still a good engine that has the abilty to move decent when set up properly.

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The exhaust is something I have yet to tackle on my rig...it is currently rusted out, and just sort of hanging on for dear life. I have been reading reviews, and watching you tube vids about different mufflers and the corresponding engines pushing them to get an idea of what I want.

 

I had an interesting traffic stop not too long ago. It was an early 90's S10 with the 2.5 4 cylinder. The guy had put a 40 series muffler on it, and it sounded surprisingly good, at idle. When he left the stop, the sound reminded me of a ricer, but none the less...

 

I will probably go with the 2.25 pipe, just because my exhaust guy prefers that...why? I dont know...

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I'm getting custom headers made and exhaust line in 2.5 (they don't work with 2.25).

 

I hope it makes a notorius diference (I have serious header (studs) leake, that's taking a few horses too).

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