esy Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 ok, so i finally got my dust cap/drive cap off. i don't think the previous owner had the brakes changed before because once the dust cap finally came off, there was a snap ring that was preventing the locking hub from coming off. i think i'm home free now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esy Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 ok, i think a few things MUST be reiterated to make sure that people don't run into the same problems that i did. when removing the stock hub, it DOES NOT come off with ease. if it comes off with ease after you remove the nuts, you're missing the locking C-clip. so, after removing the nuts from the stock locking hub studs, you must then remove the dust cap (you don't have to do it in this order since it doesn't really matter). after removing the dust cap, you'll see the locking C-clip (if you have or have used a Yakima rack, you'll be familiar with these locking C-clips). pry the C-clip open a little and pop it off. KEEP THIS BECAUSE YOU WILL NEED IT. what the locking C-clip does is prevent the axle from moving. once you remove it, you'll be able to push the axle in and out. once that C-clip is removed, the locking hub plate should pry off with a little more elbow grease. this is when you take the stock studs off and put the new WARN studs on (NOTE: i do recommend getting new, stronger ones like some others have. they're pretty weak, and i snapped one when torquing them down to about ~22 ft/lbs, and yes, the recommended torque is 18-25 ft/lbs. so, i'll be buying all new studs from Home Depot or something and doing it all over again). put the WARN hub body on, and snug the screws down. don't torque them, just snug them so that the body is sitting up against the wheel hub. now, remember that locking C-clip that you had to keep? well, put that bad boy back on. if you didn't see one when you pulled your hubs off, go buy one because like i said, the C-clip prevents the axle from moving back and forth through the hub. after that, all the other instructions are good. if i knew the C-clip needed to be removed, it would've saved me a TON of time, but you live and you learn. i'll be going back in there soon anyways to redo the studs, so whatever. one question though. when i was testing proper engagement and disengagement of the hubs per the WARN instructions, one method wasn't exactly doing what WARN said it would. it says: for proper engagement: lift one wheel, lock both hubs, and spin the lifted wheel. if the drive shaft is spinning, the hub is properly engaged. for proper disengagement: unlock/free the lifted wheel and spin the wheel. if the drive shaft is NOT spinning and no ratcheting sound is heard, the hub is properly disengaging my question is is that it was engaging properly but when i tested for disengagement, it didn't do what WARN said it would. the drive shaft was still spinning, but i didn't hear a ratcheting sound so what's the story? is it disengaged properly? i just want to be sure. other than that, a very simple install as long as you know some of the little things ahead of you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 (edited) the stock studs are plenty long enough for warn hubs - no need to remove to put aftermarket ones in. Plus this makes the job quick and easy! Edited June 2, 2010 by FUELER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esy Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 not sure about the studs on yours, but the WARN studs are barely flush with the tops of the nuts once torqued down. if i used the stock studs, there wouldn't have been enough thread to hold onto the stud. maybe the difference between the 1G and 2G R50s are a little different in that sense, i don't know. plus, it'd be much better to have slightly longer studs, anyways, so you're certain that the nuts are completely threaded on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maikan Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 I have a 99 and the stock studs were too short. I too have broken a studs while installing, I throw them away and found bolts the same size as the studs. Very easy to do, thanks to this forum for the idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 not sure about the studs on yours, but the WARN studs are barely flush with the tops of the nuts once torqued down. if i used the stock studs, there wouldn't have been enough thread to hold onto the stud. maybe the difference between the 1G and 2G R50s are a little different in that sense, i don't know. plus, it'd be much better to have slightly longer studs, anyways, so you're certain that the nuts are completely threaded on. thats odd.... mines a 99.5.... the nuts are definitely on all the way, i even have about two or three threads of the stock studs sticking out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esy Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 I have a 99 and the stock studs were too short. I too have broken a studs while installing, I throw them away and found bolts the same size as the studs. Very easy to do, thanks to this forum for the idea. when you say bolts, you mean something like this, yeah? if so, that actually sounds like a novel idea. i didn't even think of that. the only thing i'd be concerned about with that is if i were to snap that bolt as well (although it SHOULDN'T snap when properly torquing down) and the bolt would get stuck inside the wheel hub. if i can't find another type of equal thread double ended stud, i might look into this route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sick98Path Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 I installed these Warn hubs right before a big trip to Boston. The only other thing I did at the same time as the install of the hubs is make a mods to the stock air box to flow little more cool air... Anyway's I got 20.27 mpg on the way there during this trip I was stuck in traffic for almost 2 hours and only went 6 miles in the 2 hours on that tank I keep the truck around 2750 RPM a little less then half the max revs of the motor. I also did use a tank of fuel transporting 4 people well 5 including myself and a wedding cake and sound equipment for my cousins wedding with AC on 17.5mpg windows up this truck was loaded heavy and I could sure feel it going up hills lol On my way home AC on and front windows down and a lot of traffic all the way back speed was up and down but still got 19.68 MPG me and my buddy in my path and our baggage for the wedding I thought this was awesome! I use to get 15 mpg around town normal driving and 16 highway before the hubs My truck is completely stock other then Hubs, Air box mod, Leaky muffler, and a set of 31x10.5x15 set at 38psi, also has a Fresh good tune up I would HIGHLY recommend these Hubs to every one. They are easy to install and what a diffrence 4 MPG on highway! I am sure I could squeeze out 1-2 mpg If I kept the rpm's lower and wasn't going like 75-85 mph With my GPS I figured out that every 10 miles my truck would only registered 9 of them at a 100 miles on the GPS it was exactly at 90 miles on my odometer. My Speedo reads 75 mph I am going 82 mph... This is all due to the 31's just some info for people check gas mileage.... So when you Mileage is 300 miles on a tank of fuel it is really 330 miles which is much nicer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickj Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 There's a few of us in AU that have also done this mod with similar fuel mileage figures. I used the Nissan Navara front hubs that had the same spline count as the Pathy. I used a 104mm hole saw to make the hole in the wheel cover. They look sweet, as do yours Oregonian. Some of us have noticed the 4wd lamp flickering sometimes but no pattern to it. Also, I think the US transfer case is different to the AU one so the oil pump issues are eliminated. Nick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 What is the deal with the Warn studs breaking? Are they using poor quality studs or are they designed to fail early (like a shear pin) so you don't bust up CVs? Anyone every quiz warn on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esy Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 no clue on the studs. i just replaced the WARN studs today with new bolts. bought 12 new M8x1.25 40mm bolts from Lowe's. they were class 8.8 (not quite grade 8 from what the guy said, but easily better than grade 5 that could easily handle 25 lbs/ft of torque), and matched them up with some washers, torqued it all down to 22 lbs/ft torque and it was great! since i've had them on, i've been averaging about 17-18mpg on mostly city with some highway driving mixed in. before i got them on, i got about 15mpg, on the dot, with the same type of driving, and about 17ish mpg when it was mostly highway (like when i went to the bay). so, from the looks of it, an approximate 3mpg increase. i got a full tune-up well before i put my hubs on, so it's not like there's an unfair advantage at any point. actually, i need to change out my air filter since i haven't done that yet and it's actually probably hurting my mpg now than it would've before. just waiting on my JWT POP to come in and i'll get that, my oil, and a fresh battery in since it appears to be going out on me slowly. great install, but definitely change the studs out to stronger studs or bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebuz Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 (edited) If you have a floor shift from 2H to 4H and 4L then it's the tx10. If you've got a switch on your dash that is labeled 2H auto 4H 4L then it's the atx14a If you have an auto mode transfer case and you put manual hubs on, you can NEVER have the switch in AUTO mode, or damage and carnage may result. I have both on my 1999 QX4: a floor lever (H-N-4Lo) and a dash switch (2WD-AUTO-LOCK). Which transfer is it: tx10 or atx14a? I'm still stuck with this question, any ideas? Thanks Edited September 30, 2010 by Sebuz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DROdude Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 (edited) I have a 2001 SE with the stock 5-spoke wheels. Wondering if anyone has installed the Warn hubs on these wheels, and if they fit without modifications? The wheel has a small flange to hold the stock hub cover in place, and it looks like it could be a tight fit. I couldn't find any exact dimensions for the Warn hubs to measure for myself. Thanks for any info. Bonus points for pictures! Edit: Found it myself. Looks like it works fine: http://www.pathyoffroad.com/image Edited September 14, 2010 by DROdude 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skulptr Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 would any body be interested in the mile marker install? i did mine last night. and i'm having problems with one of them. one works great, the other, works great, until i tighten the cap screws down, then it seems to catch as your locking or unlocking, making it very hard on the fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Anyone have an issue with the CV not going far enough through the spindle to get the snap ring back on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebuz Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 I have both on my 1999 QX4: a floor lever (H-N-4Lo) and a dash switch (2WD-AUTO-LOCK). Which transfer is it: tx10 or atx14a? I'm still stuck with this question, any ideas? Thanks I'm still looking for an answer to this, if anyone could help. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 I'm still looking for an answer to this, if anyone could help. Thanks The floor shift 4wd is the tx10, the Shift knob (all mode) is the atx14. There are several advantages/disadvantages to each xcase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 I have both on my 1999 QX4: a floor lever (H-N-4Lo) and a dash switch (2WD-AUTO-LOCK). Which transfer is it: tx10 or atx14a? I'm still stuck with this question, any ideas? Thanks It is impossible to have both, unless you magically have 2 transfer cases. You are probably confusing the floor shift for the transmission with a transfer case. The floor shift for the trans has P,R,N,D,2,1. The shift knob for the transfer case should have the 2wd,Auto,4hi,4lo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebuz Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 It is impossible to have both, unless you magically have 2 transfer cases. You are probably confusing the floor shift for the transmission with a transfer case. The floor shift for the trans has P,R,N,D,2,1. The shift knob for the transfer case should have the 2wd,Auto,4hi,4lo No, it's exactly what I have said earlier. There is a switch (2WD-AUTO-LOCK) and a transfer case floor lever (H-N-4Lo). There is also the standard transmission floor lever as well (P-R-N-D-2-1), so there are two floor levers and a switch on the dash. The car was manufactured in February of 1999. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 (edited) It cant happen though. Do both ways work like is there an auto mode that actually does something. Cause its physically impossible for the tx10 to have an auto mode, and im pretty sure you cannot fit a standard manual shift stick to the axt14. I need pics to actually believe what you are saying, my mind is telling me something is lost in translation Edited October 1, 2010 by 01silvapathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northernpathy Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 It cant happen though. Do both ways work like is there an auto mode that actually does something. Cause its physically impossible for the tx10 to have an auto mode, and im pretty sure you cannot fit a standard manual shift stick to the axt14. I need pics to actually believe what you are saying, my mind is telling me something is lost in translation Yeah I thought I didn't understand it either so I decided to look online to see if I could find pictures. Here are pictures I found from a 1998 QX4 Really odd setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebuz Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 Yeah I thought I didn't understand it either so I decided to look online to see if I could find pictures. Here are pictures I found from a 1998 QX4 (...) Really odd setup. That's exactly what I have. It it wasn't as odd as it is, I probably wouldn't be asking this question Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 Oh wow, thats a way to make something that should be really simple.....super complex. I dont even want to know the proper way to get it into 4lo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProStreetDriver Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 (edited) What's the spline count? I found some warn hubs that are for a jeep with dana 30 axles, 28 spline. Edited October 2, 2010 by ProStreetDriver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 Part #29091 28 spline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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