Jump to content

Locking Hub Install With Pictures


Recommended Posts

I recently completed installing Warn 29091 Premium Locking Hubs on my bone stock 2002 Pathfinder SE. I recieved a lot of good information from these boards when I was doing my research befere hand. It seemed appropriate to share the outcome with the boards since they were such a great resource for me. I hope this helps someone make the swap more easily!

 

The procedure was much easier than i assumed it would be. Once the vehicle is off the ground and the rim is off it's clear to see what needs to be done. There are 6 nuts holding the stock, permanatly locked hub. Remove those nuts and get the stock hub off. Mine was a mess from a sloppy brake job done by a "professional" a few years back.

 

old%20hub.jpgNo%20hub.jpg

 

Now tha the hub is off you need to replace the studs. The factory ones are not long enough...I tried to use them, believe me! Look at the length difference in the pic.

 

stud%20removal.jpgnew%20studs.jpg

 

Once the studs are changed install the 29091's according to the instructions. They pretty much slide on as 2 pieces: the housing is held on by nuts to the studs and the switch/cover is held in place with Hex Bolts. Take a few sconds to lock and unlock them, makes sure they "click" like they should when changing settings and that when unlocked the drive axel does not spin when you turn the rotor.

 

locker%20on%201.jpglocker%20on%202.jpg

 

With the locker installed and the rim back on, it looks like the pics below. The factory plastic Nissan-logo hub covers DO NOT fit over the Warn 29091's.

 

with%20stock%20rim.jpgwith%20rim%201.jpg

 

I simply took a Dremel and cut the center out of the factory plastic covers to make a hole for the Warn switch to come through. It doesn't look much different from stock...

 

modified%20cover%202.jpgmodified%20cover%203.jpg

 

I just finished this work the other day and have only made it throught a tank of gas with the new hubs in place. Running around town I got a almost 3 more MPG with the hubs turned off off. I'm about to take a 2200 mile trip, I'll update with the new milage after that.

 

I hope this helps someone take the plunge...even if it IS from a newbie to the boards! Cheers!!

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good job, good write up and thanks for sharing!!

 

I recently installed the same hubs on my WD21 but used bolts as there have been complaints about about the Warn studs failing, so keep an eye on them!! The WD21 autolocking hubs almost fit on the R50, just missing some locking tabs so I'm waiting for the Mile Markers to install on the Fiances 99 R50.

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oOo... B said the "F" word.

 

Thanks for posting these up. We have had several requests for this.

 

I'm going to move this to the R50/FAQ section.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that is great! i would have loved to use this when i had to do my hubs. one thing is that i didnt put the longer studs in, and it still went on perfectly. would this be the reason why my 4LO does not work? it just revs like its in N when i put it in 4LO. also i get noises when im in 4HI when the wheel is locked all the way turning? i just replaced both CV's also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put the Mile Marker on my 97 R50 and as you said it was a easy install. The factory studs were plenty long enough so they were used. Wonder if there is any benefit in changing them? The only thing I I did not like was I could not get a socket around the bolts to tighten them down so I hsd to use a wrench. Just a small thing. I now have to remember to pre lock the hubs so that is taking some getting used to. I was up at a local ski resort a few weeks ago and tried backing out and just spinning the rears. I got out and a coupld gut asked hey you need us to pull you out. I just locked the hubs and backed on up :)

 

 

X2 on how do the factory stubs come out?

 

James

Edited by 12161216
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Counter lock two nuts on the end of the stud and then turn the lower one out like you would with a bolt head. Sometimes you have to hold both with a wrench, keeping counter tension, but it is simple and usually painless...

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Getting the old studs out easily:

 

It's the old two nuts trick! Thread two of the nuts from the old set onto a single stud, hold the inside one still with a wrench and tighten the heck out of the ouside one right into it. Now, when you turn the inside nut counterclockwise, instead of unthreading it will hit the other nut...sticking and unscrewing the stud instead. A little hard to explain but you get the picture.

 

Cheers! Thanks for the responses all!

 

-Oregonian

 

 

I put the Mile Marker on my 97 R50 and as you said it was a easy install. The factory studs were plenty long enough so they were used. Wonder if there is any benefit in changing them? The only thing I I did not like was I could not get a socket around the bolts to tighten them down so I hsd to use a wrench. Just a small thing. I now have to remember to pre lock the hubs so that is taking some getting used to. I was up at a local ski resort a few weeks ago and tried backing out and just spinning the rears. I got out and a coupld gut asked hey you need us to pull you out. I just locked the hubs and backed on up :)

 

 

X2 on how do the factory stubs come out?

 

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah...what he said...just in half the words :)

 

Counter lock two nuts on the end of the stud and then turn the lower one out like you would with a bolt head. Sometimes you have to hold both with a wrench, keeping counter tension, but it is simple and usually painless...

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so what about all the little rings and stuff that are inside the auto locking hubs? i took one of mine apart once cause i thought i might have busted it but it was fine, all kinds of other little things in there, they all come off? i've been wanting to do this too.

Edited by bigred07
Link to comment
Share on other sites

so what about all the little rings and stuff that are inside the auto locking hubs? i took one of mine apart once cause i thought i might have busted it but it was fine, all kinds of other little things in there, they all come off? i've been wanting to do this too.

Yours will be different to this procedure as you have a WD21, the standard R50 hubs are always locked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't want to burst the bubble, but it should be noted that installing hubs on r50 that have the ATX14A Transfer Case is more than likely going to cause premature failure of it. This transfer case is clearly different in the way it has been designed and relies on sufficient oil pressure to lubricate the internal parts.

 

It has 2 oil pumps and the primary one is driven by the front driveshaft. The secondary is an electric motor that operates in certain condition and 2wd is not one of them. So basically when you have the hubs unlocked running on 2wd, there is no oil pressure in the TC.

 

be carefull with this... complete explanation of the ecu logic for the sub oil pump of the TC here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22160&view=findpost&p=405931

Edited by fleurys
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure I understand where you're going with this; when the hubs are unlocked the front tranfer case is idle when the vehicle is moving. An idle case does not need active lubrication. I could see locking the hubs for a couple hundred yards before engaging the 4x4 to pre-lube the case prior to adding a load...but premature failure? Not sure I agree...

 

Thanks for all the great responses all!

 

-Oregonian

 

 

I don't want to burst the bubble, but it should be noted that installing hubs on r50 that have the ATX14A Transfer Case is more than likely going to cause premature failure of it. This transfer case is clearly different in the way it has been designed and relies on sufficient oil pressure to lubricate the internal parts.

 

It has 2 oil pumps and the primary one is driven by the front driveshaft. The secondary is an electric motor that operates in certain condition and 2wd is not one of them. So basically when you have the hubs unlocked running on 2wd, there is no oil pressure in the TC.

 

be carefull with this... complete explanation of the ecu logic for the sub oil pump of the TC here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22160&view=findpost&p=405931

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure I understand where you're going with this; when the hubs are unlocked the front tranfer case is idle when the vehicle is moving. An idle case does not need active lubrication. I could see locking the hubs for a couple hundred yards before engaging the 4x4 to pre-lube the case prior to adding a load...but premature failure? Not sure I agree...

 

Thanks for all the great responses all!

 

-Oregonian

 

I kind of agree with this also. I don't understand how it could cause premature failure if there is no load or turning of any kind in the TC. But at the same time if 4wd is engaged when the hubs are unlocked, that is bad. And that is what fluery's is talking about. This TC has an option to leave it in auto, so 4wd engages by itself. If your hubs are unlocked in this time, bad things could happen. So just be careful if you have them.

 

 

Also, just one thing. What did you do about the C-clip holding the hub on from the CV axle end? I thought you had to take that cap off first, remove the c-clip, and then take the hub off? Or am I mistaken?

 

Jose

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had to remove the clip when doing the rotor/pad job a few weeks ago, but just left it in place for this procedure...if I rememebr correctly. :) There's no reason to remove the clip as the entire job is done with the rotor/spline in place.

 

-Oregonian

 

I kind of agree with this also. I don't understand how it could cause premature failure if there is no load or turning of any kind in the TC. But at the same time if 4wd is engaged when the hubs are unlocked, that is bad. And that is what fluery's is talking about. This TC has an option to leave it in auto, so 4wd engages by itself. If your hubs are unlocked in this time, bad things could happen. So just be careful if you have them.

 

 

Also, just one thing. What did you do about the C-clip holding the hub on from the CV axle end? I thought you had to take that cap off first, remove the c-clip, and then take the hub off? Or am I mistaken?

 

Jose

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I,m saying is that the atx14a is not like the tx10 transfer case. Meaning that it is NOT idle when in 2wd just because is contains a set of clutch disks just like an automatic transmission. This makes the AUTO mode available in the r50, because the ecu, can engage these clutch disk and pass on 4wd automatically. Even if you are running in 2wd, the whole TC is turning, just not the front clutch pack...but these clutchs needs oil running on them to prevent premature burning... Go on the highway, stay at 65-70 and let me know how long it takes before the 4wd yellow led lights up....

 

Do get me wrong, I find what you have done very good as far as the description and pictures. I just wanted to make sure that everyone knows every facts about the this... open up your fsm for your transfer case and read it...you'll see that it is a completely different animal than any conventional transfer case...

 

over and out.

 

S.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got worried for a min but figured out my 97 is not the auto type t-case. There was another post on here talking about the auto types and the possible problems. It also linked to a Aussie site that people taked about running theres for years with the auto type and would get the light from time to time but no other problems?

 

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure the main oil pump in the atx14a is run off the main (rear) drive shaft.

 

Untitled.jpg

 

The secondary pump runs when the vehicle is stopped or in reverse.

 

 

Ho Boy,,,This would be the best news ... I don't know why I assumed it was the front. It's true that the fsm only specify <main shaft> not front or rear... Are you able to confirm that with some of your mechanics ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

fleurys, thanks for the comment. You seem to know a lot about these. Here'e where my "newbiness" will show...

 

A few Q's if ya don't mind:

 


  • Is it possible for a 2002 SE to have either the atx14a or tx10 from the factory?
    If so, how can I tell which I have?
    You refer to an "Auto Mode". I'm not sure I've seen such a thing on my Pathy....does that help determine which I may have?

 

Thanks again, cheers!

 

-Oregonian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a floor shift from 2H to 4H and 4L then it's the tx10. If you've got a switch on your dash that is labeled 2H auto 4H 4L then it's the atx14a

 

If you have an auto mode transfer case and you put manual hubs on, you can NEVER have the switch in AUTO mode, or damage and carnage may result.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...