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Locking Hub Install With Pictures

Oregonian

By Oregonian,
in R50 FAQ's & Pinned Topics

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Oregonian
NPORA Newbie

Oregonian

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Thanks for clarifying for the new guy, morpheus.

 

I have the floor shifter you described, glad to hear I have the tx10. :jig: WHEW!

 

-Oregonian

 

 

If you have a floor shift from 2H to 4H and 4L then it's the tx10. If you've got a switch on your dash that is labeled 2H auto 4H 4L then it's the atx14a

 

If you have an auto mode transfer case and you put manual hubs on, you can NEVER have the switch in AUTO mode, or damage and carnage may result.

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Oregonian
Oregonian

I recently completed installing Warn 29091 Premium Locking Hubs on my bone stock 2002 Pathfinder SE. I recieved a lot of good information from these boards when I was doing my research befere hand. It

FUELER
FUELER

nice writeup!   youve inspired me to do the same.     How do you get the studs out??

Nickj
Nickj

There's a few of us in AU that have also done this mod with similar fuel mileage figures. I used the Nissan Navara front hubs that had the same spline count as the Pathy. I used a 104mm hole saw to ma

Pezzy NPORA Old-Timer

Pezzy

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Yeah, but did you rehost the pictures in NORPA's account for posterity??

I have saved copies of the images to our images folder. They are not currently linked.

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Oregonian
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Oregonian

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Thanks for the backup!

 

The ones in the original post are hosted on my own personal site. I run design/build/run datacenters for a living and I've had that site forever, so they aren't going anywhere. I'm a pack rat when it comes to data.

 

If there's anything (including just advice) that you all need in that arena I'd be glad to lend a hand!

 

-Oregonian

 

I have saved copies of the images to our images folder. They are not currently linked.

Edited by Oregonian
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  • 2 weeks later...
maikan NPORA Veteran

maikan

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I took a look at the hardware that was ship with the warn hubs.

 

When I tried to screw the bolts on the studs, I realized the the bolts are not perfectly round !!!

 

One end is round but the other end is oval ( 0 instead of o ) and they are all the same.

 

I can screw for a little bit but the studs stuck just before passing through the bolts.

 

Are the bolts made that way to insure a kind of auto-blocking system ??

 

Or do I need to be really pissed off because they send me crap ??

 

Thanks

 

<a href=SDC10133.jpg' alt='SDC10133.jpg'>

Edited by maikan
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180sx NPORA Old-Timer

180sx

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Why would it be an issue? Only issue would be with the wheel cover (part that covers lugs) but you can always cut that). So what would be the issue?

 

Jose

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tekazgtr1984 NPORA Old-Timer

tekazgtr1984

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:goodpost:

 

Yup, this appears to be the case for the ATX14A transfer case. It's fair to say this transfer case offers a more AWD set-up than the TX-10, as All-mode can engage on its own depending on road conditions (I believe that's in Auto mode). This means that those clutches in the transfer case can engage even when 4HI isn't selected, and power can be sent to the front wheels. For that reason, the ATX14A requires continuous lubrication, as mentioned by fleurys.

 

This is unlike the TX-10 transfer case. With the OEM flanges (always locked) and the transfer case in 2HI, only the rear wheels are being sent power. Even so, the driveshaft and CV axles are still moving in relation to the front tires moving. With the Warn hubs, the hubs can be unlocked and that hardware no longer moves relative to the front tires moving.

 

Just to reiterate, your All-mode system differs significantly from that of the lever-system transfer case. ;)

Edited by tekazgtr1984
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fleurys NPORA Old-Timer

fleurys

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does that change anything with the way i put it in 4wd now?? like what do i do with the 4wd shifter, i dont have the button

 

If you don't have the button then you have the tx-10 TC... You're good to go without worries.... You don't change anything to your way you engage 4hi (well of course if wont do anything if your hubs are not locked... but you won't damage anything...)

 

S.

Edited by fleurys
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fleurys NPORA Old-Timer

fleurys

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soo to engage 4hi and 4lo i dont use the shifter?? i thought manual hubs you have to get out and do it?

 

 

no, no... You still have to use your shifter like before... Hubs only link the wheel to your axle (half-shaft)... it has nothing to do with 4hi or 4lo.... When your hubs are locked, then if you go in 4wd, the power from the TC going through your front diff then to your front axles will get to your wheels. If you disengage your hubs, it's like disconnecting your wheels from the axles... power will travel the same road but will die in your hubs, therefore not reaching your wheels...

 

hope it's clearer now...if not, I'll let someone else try to explain as my english is not my main language...sorry.

 

S.

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180sx NPORA Old-Timer

180sx

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Did you get what he was saying? It's like a light bulb (Hubs are the light bulb and your TC case is the switch). Say you have the light bulb in the socket, turn the switch on and the light turns on fine. That's what it's like with your hubs locked. Now loosen the light bulb, turn the switch on, and nothing. Power still goes to the socket, but since the bulb is loose no power goes to it. That's what it is like when the hubs are not locked. Get it now?

 

Jose

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tekazgtr1984 NPORA Old-Timer

tekazgtr1984

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i think so. hubs arent locked no 4wd, the are then i use the shifter to put it in 4hi/4lo. normally drive in 2wd with hubs not locked

 

For stock R50s the hubs are always locked, in 2WD or 4WD. In 2WD, though, no power is actually being sent to the wheels, yet the hardware remains in motion as it is connected to the wheels. Manual hubs eliminate that motion, therefore eliminating unnecessary wear.

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esy NPORA Fulltime Resident

esy

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For stock R50s the hubs are always locked, in 2WD or 4WD. In 2WD, though, no power is actually being sent to the wheels, yet the hardware remains in motion as it is connected to the wheels. Manual hubs eliminate that motion, therefore eliminating unnecessary wear.

 

yes. so, having manual locking hubs and driving them in the "free wheel" option in 2H will essentially make our trucks like a true 2WD vehicle, thus saving on fuel, wear on the CV boots/axles as tekazgtr and others have said.

 

if you do decide to use the 4WD, you MUST lock the hubs first, then switch into 4WD. if you don't (regardless of which TC you have), you will damage your TC.

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FUELER NPORA Old-Timer

FUELER

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Posted (edited)

to fleurys,

 

the transfer case pump is driven by the rear driveshaft - not the front. People have been running these hubs with AT14x transfer case for years in australia with no ill effect

 

http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3951&highlight=#3951

 

 

MY question is, how come these instructions are so simple, but the guys on PCOA talk about removing a snap ring as well as a few washers not mentioned here?

Edited by FUELER
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fleurys NPORA Old-Timer

fleurys

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Posted

to fleurys,

 

the transfer case pump is driven by the rear driveshaft - not the front. People have been running these hubs with AT14x transfer case for years in australia with no ill effect

 

http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3951&highlight=#3951

 

 

Thanks Fueler... morpheus had came to the same conclusion a few weeks back... I don't know why all along I was assuming it was the front drive shaft....For me it's a mixed feeling news.... happy because I will have something to lessen the wear on the shafts, bad because now I have to find more money... hahaha

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FUELER NPORA Old-Timer

FUELER

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Just got back from the Mojave desert & sequoia natl forest... happy to announce i got 17 mpg!!! (My previous best was 15 mpg) also did 600 miles and no 4x4 light blinking!!

 

I highly recommend warn hubs to any R50 owner!!!

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01silvapathy NPORA Old-Timer

01silvapathy

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I think that the US model pathys are different than the Australian models. When I run the 4hr trip back and forth to college if I leave my hubs unlocked the 4wd light will come on about two hours into the trip,twenty minutes to a half hour after that the 4wd light will start to blink, so I just lock em on long trips over two hours, and leave them unlocked around town where most of my driving is.

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esy NPORA Fulltime Resident

esy

Posted
Posted

doing my hubs today. taken the nuts off the stock hubs, but am now having trouble getting the hubs off. best way to get this thing off? i've been trying to hammer a flathead in between the hub, but to no avail. also been trying to get it in between the dust cap, but that thing isn't budging either. am i on the right track or is there a better way? maybe a crank puller? any help soon would greatly appreciated. trying to get this done ASAP. thanks!

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