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Locking Hub Install With Pictures


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This was a statement that I posted that eventually was proven wrong... I had assumed all along that the front driveshaft was providing for the transfer case oil pump.. It was later showed that it was the rear (main) driveshaft.. So the hubs can be installed on both th atx14a and tx10 without issues.. The only thing to remember is to not leave the atx14a to AUTO mode. Also, do not engage the 4hi when rolling with your hubs open (not locked).

 

 

fleurys, I've read through all those posts and would appreciate clarification on a couple things. Am I correct in understanding that if the manual hubs are locked, then the atx14 CAN be used in AUTO (& 4Hi). I ask because the Auto mode is VERY usefull here in the Pacific NW. Our roads are wet & slick nearly all the time. I can tell within minutes that I have it in 2WD if I'm driving it in the wet. The rear wheels will spin in the slick if I punch it to accelerate onto the 45mph road outside my residential area. On the other hand, it's not quite slick enough for 4Hi. If I've left that on, I can feel that bind as soon as I turn out of my drive.

 

Eliminating AUTO would be a major loss for me. I recognize I represent a minority of owners, which is why I imagine it hasn't been clarly addressed. If I still lived in AZ or KC, I would just have part time 4WD anyway - but I don't, which is why my coupe has AWD when I would have never chosen that if I lived in a dry climate.

 

I was hoping I could put Manual hubs on and just remember to never engage AUTO or 4Hi/Lo while they are unlocked. No one else really drives it but me, however, I figured if I lent it so someone, I would just lock the hubs to make sure they couldn't make a mistake. My primary reason for manual hubs would be reliability and improved mpg in the rare times I get to drive it in 2WD when it's dry. Thanks!!

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fleurys, I've read through all those posts and would appreciate clarification on a couple things. Am I correct in understanding that if the manual hubs are locked, then the atx14 CAN be used in AUTO (& 4Hi). I ask because the Auto mode is VERY usefull here in the Pacific NW. Our roads are wet & slick nearly all the time. I can tell within minutes that I have it in 2WD if I'm driving it in the wet. The rear wheels will spin in the slick if I punch it to accelerate onto the 45mph road outside my residential area. On the other hand, it's not quite slick enough for 4Hi. If I've left that on, I can feel that bind as soon as I turn out of my drive.

 

Eliminating AUTO would be a major loss for me. I recognize I represent a minority of owners, which is why I imagine it hasn't been clarly addressed. If I still lived in AZ or KC, I would just have part time 4WD anyway - but I don't, which is why my coupe has AWD when I would have never chosen that if I lived in a dry climate.

 

I was hoping I could put Manual hubs on and just remember to never engage AUTO or 4Hi/Lo while they are unlocked. No one else really drives it but me, however, I figured if I lent it so someone, I would just lock the hubs to make sure they couldn't make a mistake. My primary reason for manual hubs would be reliability and improved mpg in the rare times I get to drive it in 2WD when it's dry. Thanks!!

 

You are correct. When the hubs are locked, all the normal options are available (2wd,auto,4hi,4lo).. When the hubs are unlocked, only use 2wd.

 

Cheers.

S.

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fleurys, I've read through all those posts and would appreciate clarification on a couple things. Am I correct in understanding that if the manual hubs are locked, then the atx14 CAN be used in AUTO (& 4Hi). I ask because the Auto mode is VERY usefull here in the Pacific NW. Our roads are wet & slick nearly all the time. I can tell within minutes that I have it in 2WD if I'm driving it in the wet. The rear wheels will spin in the slick if I punch it to accelerate onto the 45mph road outside my residential area. On the other hand, it's not quite slick enough for 4Hi. If I've left that on, I can feel that bind as soon as I turn out of my drive.

 

Eliminating AUTO would be a major loss for me. I recognize I represent a minority of owners, which is why I imagine it hasn't been clarly addressed. If I still lived in AZ or KC, I would just have part time 4WD anyway - but I don't, which is why my coupe has AWD when I would have never chosen that if I lived in a dry climate.

 

I was hoping I could put Manual hubs on and just remember to never engage AUTO or 4Hi/Lo while they are unlocked. No one else really drives it but me, however, I figured if I lent it so someone, I would just lock the hubs to make sure they couldn't make a mistake. My primary reason for manual hubs would be reliability and improved mpg in the rare times I get to drive it in 2WD when it's dry. Thanks!!

 

I can confirm fleury's response. I have the auto-mode t-case as well and have successfully used AUTO with the hubs locked.

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I took the Warn hubs off my '98 (floor shift) and put them on my '03 (dash knob). They work the same on both....lock the hubs then the shifter if that helps you?

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  • 4 months later...

Hello everyone. So I have this 2003 SE with stock 16in rims (7Jx16 ET20 apparently), with a 100mm center bore. I wanna ask if the RR 15001.61 locking hubs fit through the bore without wheel spacers. Your input is appreciated.

 

Cheers,

Path_0_logical

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Hello everyone. So I have this 2003 SE with stock 16in rims (7Jx16 ET20 apparently), with a 100mm center bore. I wanna ask if the RR 15001.61 locking hubs fit through the bore without wheel spacers. Your input is appreciated.
 
Cheers,
Path_0_logical

Yes.


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/12/2010 at 7:37 PM, Oregonian said:

I recently completed installing Warn 29091 Premium Locking Hubs on my bone stock 2002 Pathfinder SE. I recieved a lot of good information from these boards when I was doing my research befere hand. It seemed appropriate to share the outcome with the boards since they were such a great resource for me. I hope this helps someone make the swap more easily!

 

The procedure was much easier than i assumed it would be. Once the vehicle is off the ground and the rim is off it's clear to see what needs to be done. There are 6 nuts holding the stock, permanatly locked hub. Remove those nuts and get the stock hub off. Mine was a mess from a sloppy brake job done by a "professional" a few years back.

 

old%20hub.jpgNo%20hub.jpg

 

Now tha the hub is off you need to replace the studs. The factory ones are not long enough...I tried to use them, believe me! Look at the length difference in the pic.

 

stud%20removal.jpgnew%20studs.jpg

 

Once the studs are changed install the 29091's according to the instructions. They pretty much slide on as 2 pieces: the housing is held on by nuts to the studs and the switch/cover is held in place with Hex Bolts. Take a few sconds to lock and unlock them, makes sure they "click" like they should when changing settings and that when unlocked the drive axel does not spin when you turn the rotor.

 

locker%20on%201.jpglocker%20on%202.jpg

 

With the locker installed and the rim back on, it looks like the pics below. The factory plastic Nissan-logo hub covers DO NOT fit over the Warn 29091's.

 

with%20stock%20rim.jpgwith%20rim%201.jpg

 

I simply took a Dremel and cut the center out of the factory plastic covers to make a hole for the Warn switch to come through. It doesn't look much different from stock...

 

modified%20cover%202.jpgmodified%20cover%203.jpg

 

I just finished this work the other day and have only made it throught a tank of gas with the new hubs in place. Running around town I got a almost 3 more MPG with the hubs turned off off. I'm about to take a 2200 mile trip, I'll update with the new milage after that.

 

I hope this helps someone take the plunge...even if it IS from a newbie to the boards! Cheers!!

Good job bro .... an search for this kind luck ... how much u r found it and from where???

if I make welding for front difference and in same time I will fixing a hubs luck.

what do u think bro?

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey everyone. I wanted to get your advice on how to proceed...

 

So I got some generic RR 15001.61 locking hubs for my R50 and was gonna install them but ran into some major snags with the hub studs/nuts. I took off the passenger side front wheel, sprayed WD40 on each of the hub studs and then proceed to remove the nuts. However 3 of the nuts were stuck tight and I couldn't get them to unscrew. On top of that I attempted to remove 2 of the other stud nuts, and the nuts just rotate freely without unscrewing from the stud (I read that this may be due to either the nut or stud threads being stripped).

 

So now I ordered some 304 stainless M8 x 40mm x1.25mm studs and M8 x 1.25mm hex nuts from Ebay, and was planning on getting a hex drive stud extractor (the type that doesnt require drilling the stud) and a propane torch. Any tips/advice on nut and stud removal/replacement? Thanks a bunch.

 

Edit: I was using a basic 3/8in socket wrench w/ socket for the torquing/untorquing.

Edit 2: Also was wondering if there was a method to brace the rotor so it does not rotate when I am torquing the hub studs/nuts...

P.

 

 

Edited by Path_0_logical
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I did the hubs on my WDs without removing the wheel. If there isn't room to work with your wheels, you could have someone hold the brake, stick a screwdriver into the cooling fins on the rotor up against the caliper, or thread on a couple of lug nuts and set up a bar between the nuts and the ground to keep it steady.

 

I had to heat/quench and beat with a hammer to get the allen bolts out of my '95's hubs. I think I also used a cheater pipe.

Hopefully the nut is stripped on the stud, not the stud in the hub. If you turn the nut with a wrench you can watch to see if they're turning together. If the nut's stripped and it's in the way, you could probably cut it off the stud with a little careful grinding, leaving yourself enough stud to back out with vise grips.

Retorque the hub fasteners a few days after install. I've had mine back out a little as things settle in. If you're using stainless, use some antiseize so it doesn't gall.

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