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Locking Hub Install With Pictures


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Very new here and new 02 Pathfinder SE owner. Wanted to give a big shout out to this post and all who contributed. I read through this post about 10 times before taking the plunge. Picked up some WARN hubs for my R50 and also some of those special C-Clip pliers (I can't imagine having done this without those pliers they were well worth the $10 I paid for the set). Long story short with the information here, the proper tools, and a couple of malt beverages it only took me about 30 minutes per hub. My R50 was well cared for by the previous owner so dust cap came off with just a little prying with the screw driver. The C-clips popped right off with the special pliers and I was able to reuse the stock studs. Since the stock flanges did not make use of washers I did not use the washers that came with the WARN hubs (not sure if this will be a problem) and it did not look like the studs would be long enough at first but, once torqued down I had a good 2 1/2 to 3 threads exposed. I just completed this on Sunday night (6/22) and today was my first trip to work and back on them and I do notice the difference. I also tested locking out the hubs and then shifting into 4H and also tested 4L (I live in the country on dirt roads and have some trails on my property as well so, plenty of test ground) all worked well. The only thing I notice was when I turn the hubs to 4X4 the don't 'click-in' until I put her in gear and start moving.

 

My only deviation that I'll throw out that I hadn't seen here is that I talked with others in my area who did this without jacking the vehicle and removing the wheel. I decided to go at it in this manner to save time. I did not run into any hassles and it also made some of the tasks a little easier.

 

Now I'll just have to wait and see if I achieve any increase in MPG. The only other mod I have done that seems to get mixed reviews is I swapped out the factory intake with a K&N Air Intake which feels like it is helping but, again have not had it in long enough to evaluate any true improvement. It feels like there is and increase in horsepower especially on the trails in 4WD. I accidentally filled it up with regular unleaded (not used to pulling up to the Premium pump) and ever since then the 'Service Engine Soon' light has been on. I since filled it with premium and I unhooked the battery while out of town for a weekend and the light stayed off for a little while after that but, came back on so, I'll have to get a read on the code and figure that out but, as far as I can tell it runs good.

 

Thanks again for all this great information...it really helped me.

 

I didn't post any pictures because I don't know how to do all that stuff. I am lucky I could find my way back to this site to post my comment. :laugh:

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  • 1 month later...

the warn hubs just came in today. opened them up and tried turning the dial to lock it but it seems very hard to turn. did anybody else experience this? does it get easier to turn when its on the pathfinder? both of them seem hard to turn. i seems like they are supposed to click into like a groove in the locked or opened position but turning between the groove it seems more difficult than it should.

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  • 1 year later...

Hey Guys , Really am interested in doing the Warn Hubs or Pros ...on my 2004 LE Platinum ,,,, but does anyone know if they will fit with the special edition Platinum Wheels ,

they are 17 inch 6 spoke Alloy ....I am concerned about the diameter of the Hub center ID and the OD of Warns ... anybody know ? Any experiences?

Thanks !!!

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Hey Guys , Really am interested in doing the Warn Hubs or Pros ...on my 2004 LE Platinum ,,,, but does anyone know if they will fit with the special edition Platinum Wheels ,

they are 17 inch 6 spoke Alloy ....I am concerned about the diameter of the Hub center ID and the OD of Warns ... anybody know ? Any experiences?

Thanks !!!

check this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33354-manual-locking-hubs-with-stock-03-04-wheels/

 

you need the rugged ridge hubs

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Thanks totriz , found the info and that the Rugged Ridge does fit without spacers , but just asked on that thread if you still need to use longer studs or do the stock one work ?... ...with those LE Plat wheels

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  • 7 months later...

Hi all, this will be one of my first posts as I've been just reading until now.

 

I just purchased a 2002 LE and would like to do the manual locking hub install, but have been seeing greatly varying prices online from $180 for the Rugged Ridge ones to about $89 for others on Amazon and Ebay.

 

I've decided on getting the Rugged Ridge style hubs so that they will fit well with my 17" LE wheels, but there seem to be a few brands that look the same and which are up to $100 cheaper than the Rugged Ridge ones, but seem to be exactly the same. I'm assuming they've just been rebranded, some with the name tag and others without.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA48172045934-Locking-Manual-6-stud/dp/B009DK3D8O?ie=UTF8&keywords=Evan-Fischer%20EVA48172045934%20Locking%20Hub%20Set%20of%202%20Manual%20type%206-stud&qid=1464515855&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Manual-Locking-Hub-28-Tooth-for-NISSAN-Xterra-Pathfinder-4WD-2PCS-/291636320373?fits=Year%3A2002%7CMake%3ANissan%7CModel%3APathfinder&hash=item43e6e11875:g:Wj8AAOSwHQ9WaiH5&vxp=mtr

Would someone have some insight as to the quality of these hubs and if they are basically identical to the RR just rebranded? I see that at least one other member here has been using the style in my first link on a '98 and '01.

 

Cheers!

 

 

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  • 7 months later...

So, if anyone's still reading and interested...I finally got the Rugged Ridge style hubs that I bought off of Amazon, installed and all I can say is they are awesome!

 

I installed them without incident a week before a road trip from Vancouver to San Diego and averaged 26.7 mpg on 89 grade gas, during the aprox. 2,800 mile trip, with a best mpg of 33.1. I also got 337 miles out of a tank after one fill up.

 

This is a phenomenal gain as my mileage before the install was around 16 city / 22 hwy.

 

They fit right through the center caps of my 17' LE wheels and there were no issues with the length of the stock studs.

 

When the hubs are unlocked the 4x4 console light does come on intermittently, but I wouldn't call that a problem in light of the amazing gas mileage.

 

 

Edited by Viajero
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  • 1 month later...

I don't want to burst the bubble, but it should be noted that installing hubs on r50 that have the ATX14A Transfer Case is more than likely going to cause premature failure of it. This transfer case is clearly different in the way it has been designed and relies on sufficient oil pressure to lubricate the internal parts.

 

It has 2 oil pumps and the primary one is driven by the front driveshaft. The secondary is an electric motor that operates in certain condition and 2wd is not one of them. So basically when you have the hubs unlocked running on 2wd, there is no oil pressure in the TC.

 

be carefull with this... complete explanation of the ecu logic for the sub oil pump of the TC here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22160&view=findpost&p=405931

 

How can I tell which transfer case I have?

 

If I have the tx10, is there a problem installing the manual hubs?

 

Thanks!

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This was a statement that I posted that eventually was proven wrong... I had assumed all along that the front driveshaft was providing for the transfer case oil pump.. It was later showed that it was the rear (main) driveshaft.. So the hubs can be installed on both th atx14a and tx10 without issues.. The only thing to remember is to not leave the atx14a to AUTO mode. Also, do not engage the 4hi when rolling with your hubs open (not locked).

 

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This was a statement that I posted that eventually was proven wrong... I had assumed all along that the front driveshaft was providing for the transfer case oil pump.. It was later showed that it was the rear (main) driveshaft.. So the hubs can be installed on both th atx14a and tx10 without issues.. The only thing to remember is to not leave the atx14a to AUTO mode. Also, do not engage the 4hi when rolling with your hubs open (not locked).

 

Thanks so much! I have the transfer case with the shifter rather than the dial, so the auto 4WD is not an issue.

 

Any thoughts on why the 4WD light is coming on with hubs unlocked?

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Auto's just a position on the dial, so unplugging the dial would mean you'd have to plug it in again to make it do anything. Easier to just remember that you have to lock the hubs in before moving the dial.

It should have a wire coming off of the switch for each position right? Cut the wire coming off for the auto position. All the rest should work.

 

I imagine it has a voltage coming in, and the voltage leaves on whichever wire is associated with the selection you make. The controller would see voltage on a particular wire and shift the tcase appropriately. I am assuming this is how it works but I don't know. If this is how it works you should be able to cut the switch output wire for auto without any issue.

 

I suppose it may be a grounding switch but cutting the wire would still work.

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Thanks so much! I have the transfer case with the shifter rather than the dial, so the auto 4WD is not an issue.

 

Any thoughts on why the 4WD light is coming on with hubs unlocked?

 

The guy in question was having issues with is transfer case that were not related to the hubs.. Me and many others have been running hubs with the atx14a TC with no issues and no 4x4 light..

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The guy in question was having issues with is transfer case that were not related to the hubs.. Me and many others have been running hubs with the atx14a TC with no issues and no 4x4 light..

 

Interesting. Seems like there would be a reason the light is coming on. Good to know most people are not having the light come on.

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  • 1 month later...

All the same. Auto vs manual in regard to hubs is only describing the hub itself.

Thanks, are there any rings that need to be removed>? I didnt see any O rings or C Rings removed off the shaft on this install. Or is it just plug an play minus the wheel studs..

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On my WD21, a snap ring had to come off to get the auto hub apart, and then go back on before the hub dial went on. My Mile Markers came with instructions. Pretty easy install provided the bolts aren't stuck. I haven't torn into an R50 but I think there is a snap ring at the end of the shaft--easy if you have snap ring pliers, doable if you have needle nosed pliers and some time on your hands.

 

Also, looks like you're not replacing wheel studs, just the studs for the hub itself.

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