Precise1 Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 would any body be interested in the mile marker install? i did mine last night. and i'm having problems with one of them. one works great, the other, works great, until i tighten the cap screws down, then it seems to catch as your locking or unlocking, making it very hard on the fingers. I installed the Mile Marker hubs on the wife's 99 R50 and had the identical issue, to the point that I drove to the store and traded the locking mechanism for another. I installed it on the spot and it did the same thing. The store manager, another employee and I messed with it for at least 20 minutes with the same results. One employee told me to use a wrench to turn it and I told him to go away. Long of the short, the manager suggested that I switch it to lock instead of free when I install it. Why not? It worked, the problem hub turns freely now. I don't look forward to ever having to remove them, but at least I learned this trick. If your hubs are binding (mine would turn 1/2 way, get progressively tighter and finally bind long before locking in) do not force them!! They are plastic and I saw wear on the first selector that I messed with which was 1/2 the reason for the return. Hopefully this trick works for you as well. Yeah I thought I didn't understand it either so I decided to look online to see if I could find pictures. Here are pictures I found from a 1998 QX4 Really odd setup. That is bizarre!! Is it some sort of traction control?? I don't get it... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 Yeah if you are in auto mode wouldnt you also have to be in 4h? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esy Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 just an assumption but it would seem that the switch/dial is an in-cabin hub locker control more than it is a 4x4 switch like it is in the LE models of some of the newer 2G R50s. so, having it in "2WD" would be like having the manual hubs in "free". "auto" would allow the vehicle to electronically switch into lock and free whenever it pleases. and "lock" would be like locking manual hubs. just an assumption, but that's what i would think it is used for since the Infiniti is supposed to be a more luxurious Nissan and having an in-cabin, hub locker would be something to achieve that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebuz Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 Yeah if you are in auto mode wouldnt you also have to be in 4h? The two are independent, you can be in Hi or Lo gear shift for 2WD, AUTO, or LOCK. I don't know how the magic is actually done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esy Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 i would think that your model Q would have the TX10 TC because they still have the floor switch unlike the actual dial that the newer Qs and pathys have. best bet would be to get under the truck and see if you can find the PN to double check it. if you were to put the manual hubs on, i'd double check some of the electronics on your axle just to make sure you won't get any lights popping up on the dash or what not. i would think that if you did use the manual hubs, you'd obviously have to leave it in 2WD mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skulptr Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I installed the Mile Marker hubs on the wife's 99 R50 and had the identical issue, to the point that I drove to the store and traded the locking mechanism for another. I installed it on the spot and it did the same thing. The store manager, another employee and I messed with it for at least 20 minutes with the same results. One employee told me to use a wrench to turn it and I told him to go away. Long of the short, the manager suggested that I switch it to lock instead of free when I install it. Why not? It worked, the problem hub turns freely now. I don't look forward to ever having to remove them, but at least I learned this trick. If your hubs are binding (mine would turn 1/2 way, get progressively tighter and finally bind long before locking in) do not force them!! They are plastic and I saw wear on the first selector that I messed with which was 1/2 the reason for the return. Hopefully this trick works for you as well. i actually figured out that the spring was catching when i tightened it down. mine would turn half way and become almost impossible to finish. what i did was finger tighten 3 screws (star pattern) and try turning it, if it didnt turn, i pushed IN on the dial, which seemed to pushed it into its little track. tightened the other 3, and then finished tightening them all. it just seemed like the dial was binding inside its cap housing, and pushing on it straightened it back out, which is probably what installing it while in lock did, forced it outward so it had no chance to bind up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarkie Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Some really good information on here. I think I can spend a week straight reading this forum. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. Definately helped a NOOB like me trying to learn the ropes and such and just ordered myself a set of manual hubs for my 04. YAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qx4donald Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 (edited) Just finished my install! Working great. Did a test drive and seems good to go. Engages when locked and doesn't do anything unexpectedly. Anyway - I thought I'd add a little bit to the write up as far as removing the dustcap if you haven't ever had your brakes serviced for a while. You'll need to remove the dust cap to get to a c-clip on the shaft-spline. The c-clip (you'll see it once you remove the dust cap) needs to be removed before you can start to remove the stock hub. This is what I did: Here is a look at the dust cap' I used my 4lb sledge hammer as a wedge to keep the rotor from rotating. I'm sure you can use a substitute such as a 2x4 or 4x4 piece of wood. Just make sure the end is "soft" so that it doesn't screw up the threads (pun unintended) or find a friend/someone to sit in the driver's seat and hold the brakes =P To loosen/break the dust cap off from the stock hub, I used a tongue and groove plier to twist it. This is only to get it loose. No need to try to yank the cap off - most likely won't come off that easy. But if it does, then great! but I doubt it, unless you've recently worked on the brakes/rotors. This is where a "wedge" or someone preventing the rotors from turning will come into play. Next, I took a flathead screw driver and lightly took a hammer to edge the dust cap away from the stock hub. No need to bang on the screwdriver; some moderately-to-light taps should do. Do this around the lip of the dust cap. a flathead or something equivalent should work fine. Now that there is a gap between dustcap and hub, you'll find you still cannot just pull the dust cap off. You'll need to "pry" it a bit more. To finish the prying, I used the crowbar provided underneath the rear passenger seats Go around the dustcap lip edgeing the cap away from the hub. It's okay of you scratch up the stock hub - i mean, you're going to replace it anyway with the Warn/Milemarker, right? Try not to mess up the studs that hold the hub in place nor the studs for the wheel. Pop it off with either a tongue-and-groove plier or simply use the crowbar and pop it off. At this point, the dust cap should come off quite easily. anyway, hope someone can find use of this. Edited February 17, 2011 by Qx4donald Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider3141 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Just finished my install. Just in time for the Snowpocalypse that Seattle is supposed to have this week. All went well. Thanks for all the advice and pictures from everyone above. A few notes: 1) Don't forget to re-install the circlip! Get a pair of Circlip pliers and a third hand to help remove them to begin with. It isn't that difficult but this by far takes the longest of anything required for the install. 2) I used the OEM studs, they are a tad short; I like to have 2-3 threads exposed. Mine had .1-.5 threads sticking out. Not Ideal but there where still more threads engaged than with the stock nuts, plus they are lock nuts. I'll keep an eye on them for a while and if they start backing off I'll loctite them or replace them with bolts. 3) QX4donalds Hammer trick worked awesome! 4) I left my center cab off, like this guy did: http://www.pathyoffroad.com/files/images/DSC_2535.preview.jpg 5) I f you get Warns buy from Amazon, the Warns are 160 and you can get free shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider3141 Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Another thing I figured out: If you have these wheels http://www.pathyoffr...535.preview.jpg then the OEM center Cab will fit right over the Hubs, no cutting required. In case you ever wanted to hide your trucks bling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esy Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 that wouldn't make sense since you'd have to pop the c-cap on and off every time you lock and unlock your hubs. to each their own, i suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider3141 Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 that wouldn't make sense since you'd have to pop the c-cap on and off every time you lock and unlock your hubs. to each their own, i suppose. Yes and No. It makes sense for me 9 months out of the year when I never touch my hubs. The real problem is that they look so nice on the truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImaHokie Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 I thought I'd add a few pics from my Warn hub install showing the C-clip. I definitely think this is an upgrade to the Pathy. The previous posters provided some great info that helped with my install. Dust cap off - showing C-clip. C-Clip Drive flange removed, showing groove on CV axle for C-clip My biggest problem was getting the C-clip back on after putting the 1st part of the Warn hub on. The axle kept getting pushed in, covering up the C-clip groove. After several attempts, I finally got it lined up correctly...and got that good "snap" sound when the C-clip seated in its groove. On my '97 Pathy, the original studs were long enough that I didn't need to replace them. I'd bought replacement bolts just in case the Pathy's original studs were too short for the Warn hubs. Final product... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Yep. Used the factory studs for my Warns as well. Nice pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattyrides07 Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Just want to say my stock studs were PLENTY long enough when I put my Warn Hubs on my R50 yesterday. I just kept the new ones in the bag LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winnipegjohnston Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 What a great thread! Thanks to all the contributors! I have a 2001 SE Pathfinder with the 2wd-auto-4hi-4lo switch. After reading through this thread, I'm still not 100% sure if the Warn hub are safe to be installed on my truck? This is my understanding after reading this thread...Warn hubs ARE safe for my truck as long as I dont turn the switch to auto while my hubs are unlocked up front. Is this correct? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Igetstabby Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Warn hubs ARE safe for my truck as long as I dont turn the switch to auto while my hubs are unlocked up front. Is this correct? Thanks That's correct. No auto mode or 4x4 without locking the hubs first and you'll be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winnipegjohnston Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 That's correct. No auto mode or 4x4 without locking the hubs first and you'll be fine. Great, thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltsnotme Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Final product... Do stock center caps fit over the hubs on these wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImaHokie Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Do stock center caps fit over the hubs on these wheels? The stock center caps (at least mine) don't fit after the Warn hubs are installed because the Warns stick out too far. The original poster on this thread shows a different style cap - he cut the center out to allow it to be used with the Warn hub. I think my caps are too small to cut out the center. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltsnotme Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 That is very sad news. Mile markers probably aren't any shorter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltsnotme Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 or i wonder if these would fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erathge Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 I did this today, I left the old studs in, and have about 1 thread exposed once they are torqued down. My question is: the stock hubs didn't use a washer, so when i put the warn's on i didn't use a washer either.. In the warn instructions they showed them using a washer, lock washer and a nut. My bag of hardware didn't come with lock washers, just washers.. Do you think it's okay to keep it the way i have it? If i have to add a washer it means ill have to replace the studs too as they will be too short, not too excited to do that. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkie99 Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Hey guys, newbie here needing some help with the Warn hub install on a 97 pathy SE. We removed the OEM/stock hubs and we seem to have a fitment problem. There is a ring around where the axle comes thru, which the OEM hub has a cavity to accommodate. The warn hubs don't and we do not get a snug fit. We have about a 1/8 inch gap. I have attached a picasa link for photos and I hope they explain the problem I am experiencing. Thanks in advance for the help. link here for picasa: https://picasaweb.google.com/gordon.shyy/97PathfinderSE?authuser=0&feat=directlink Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erathge Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 (edited) Try torquing them down... I had a bit of a gap which was resolved when they were torqued. Many people have done this mod so i dont see why it wont work. Let us know the result! Edited March 17, 2012 by erathge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now