Tungsten Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 While I do try to engage 4HI before I get stuck every once in a while I put myself into a ditch in 2HI like today when it snowed and get stuck. The only way I can get out is if I engage 4HI and give it a little throttle. Now if I do that while I am stuck I hear a thump sound from the front end and my guess that is the hubs engaging. I try to avoid doing that so I was just wondering if it can break the hubs so... Will engaging 4x4 while stuck destroy the hubs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 That is the only way I can get my drivers side to engage... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 By getting stuck and putting the gas down in 4HI? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 It can hurt them It just depends on how hard you goose it before they engage and how fast the rear wheel spun before the front locked because thats how much force and momentum is goning to that floating spline ring inside the hub. Guys on N4W have broken em that way on climbs but if you don't go ape you should be ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Exactly as My1Path said. Some have used the auto hubs for years and others have grenaded them right away. This is where the manual locking hubs are clearly superior, especially when you don't switch to 4x4 until you are in the ditch. Once again, 4 Wheel Parts has the Mile Marker manual hubs on sale for $82 for the next few days. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 (edited) Yeah I did not go crazy on them, they still work fine. I just have to remember get the hubs engaged (switch to 4HI) before hand and then I can cycle between 4HI and 2HI as road conditions change. Its safe to operate 2HI with hubs locked right? Edited February 25, 2010 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 R50s have the same front diff as us, and they, in stock form are always turning. So I don't see it hurting the wd21. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 R50s have the same front diff as us, and they, in stock form are always turning. So I don't see it hurting the wd21. Yes and NO.... R50's have a reverse cut High pinoin version of the R200a. This allows for less gear wear when being used for a Front wheel drive. This was prolly done because The R50 is always locked... that said It still will not hurt your wd21 to allow your autos to stay engaged in 2wd. With my locking hubs I lock them @ the trail and will still use 2wd for allot of it which is the same thing you are doing by not backing up after going to 2hi. your safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 good because i had to do a long drive home today so i kept the hubs engaged but just switched between 2wd for clean pavement areas and 4wd for everything else that was snowed in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Mine make a clicking noise when they engage under throttle as as usual. I've engaged them HARD quite a few times on my old Pathfinder as well as this one and they've held up. I've done a 4K drop on accident and they didn't blow up. Not saying they're indestructible, just saying they seem to be able to handle a little abuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhardison Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 good because i had to do a long drive home today so i kept the hubs engaged but just switched between 2wd for clean pavement areas and 4wd for everything else that was snowed in Me too because this is kind of thing I've been a little confused about with our rare Tennessee snow days. The main highways will be clear and the back roads snowed in. Not always convenient to stop and back up when switching back and forth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Lately, I have been noticing a grinding noise coming from my front passenger hub. only after the truck is warmed up and only from a stop. It's almost like brakes are grinding but I know it isn't that, as i just replaced the pads and the rotors have no metal-on-metal wear. Basically the truck lurches forward with a nasty grinding noise and then rolls just fine. Is there any way to take the hub off to see what the deal is, and would it be safe to drive the truck without the hubs in? this is my first 4x4 so I'm a bit of a noob. I notice there are bolts holding the hub on, but I don't know what all is involved in one. Sorry for the thread jack! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Go to the Garage section and into the pinned Factory Service Manual Downloads thread and in one of the last posts you will find a link to the PDF. This will explain most of it, and search will dig up the rest. It's all pretty easy to take apart (6 cap screws, a snap ring at most and a tensioner/lock nut), but exploded views are critical to determining if everything is ok. If you have trouble getting the info, let me know and I will find/link it for you. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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