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fleurys

Spicer U-Joints Vs Oem Nissan ?

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Man, I`m reading all the extra posts and saying to myself ' you guys were certainly not lucky`, because I remember when I did this post, it did take me about 4-5 hours to replace the u-joints, but at the time, I had next to no tools and I was doing this with a hammer and sockets... But I remember that once everything was back on, the vibrations were all gone... I`m starting to thing i was lucky ? Who knows, but I can tell that the u-joints are still on the truck and I had no vibrations since then... I guess there is a difference between the rear u-joint I got and the the one you had (hawairish)....

 

I almost feel bad now LOL...

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Ha, possibly. I was able to change them somewhat quickly...I was able to beat them out with a sledge, but that took a lot of work and only then did I resort to the press. But I've spent at least that extra amount of time redoing them and troubleshooting. I expected it to be pretty easy to get it back into spec, but that didn't appear to be the case.

 

But, oh well, I can make due with it. It was really bad earlier...rumbles started around 40mph and lasted through 70...and it was the entire truck rumbling! I had rattling I never knew the truck could make.

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For me it felt like you were driving over rumble strips. I see you're in Arizona. Up here we have rust issues which makes it even more exciting!

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Up here we have rust issues which makes it even more exciting!

:laugh: Love the choice of words here hahaha!

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It is so bad man. I don't even drive my pathy in the winter anymore. fskc that @!*%. I'll drive something else so I don't have to break out the torches every time I work on my wheeler.

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The only issue I've had with u joints is dropping the needles trying to put them in. And the last time I did them it was with $8 duralast joints. Weird that the Spicer joints gave you trouble though.

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Haha, yeah, I'm glad I don't have to deal with rust!

 

These aren't the Spicer joints, though. Those were over $20/ea...I think I paid maybe $4/ea for the Neapco through RA...but this might be a "get what you pay for" moment.

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Sounds like it. Have never had an issue with Spicer U-joints and I've installed many... also consider they make the factory parts for most rear wheel drive trucks. Nowadays factory Spicer parts with 200k miles on them are still perfectly fine.

Edited by Kingman

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Where can you find the pathy spicer version? I know they are 1310 but I can only see outside lock ring versions.

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How did you figure out that this ujoint would fit the pathfinder....? The list of diff listed does not includes ours... ( I ask because when I started looking for ujoint, I looked for spicer, but figured that they were not making them

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Found a Spicer catalog. http://media.spicerparts.com/cfs/files/media/pJJfDdtvqTwkxbSCA/k350-1-dssp.pdf

 

See page 249 for WD21 and R50 4wd applications; the p/ns match what Steve provided earlier (5-135X front, 5-1505X rear). The latter is also used on a Subaru Brat, lol.

 

It reads like 1310 is the series, and not an actual p/n? And it looks like 5-135X is a part of that series, but uses outer clips...which is a problem because the front shaft uses inner clips. They list an alternate p/n, 5-785X, which also uses outer clips. So really, this can't be correct.

 

5-1505X is confirmed as having inner clips on page 281. I can confirm the bearing cap diameters as being correct at 1.102", but they provide 2.208" as the distance "between snap rings" and I'm not exactly sure what that really means. I measure a min 2.045" and max 2.240" on the channel (i.e., 0.195"-wide clip channel), but since their dimension is closer to the outer edges of the channel, it couldn't possibly account for the snap rings being installed (and hence not really between snap rings, which would be closer to the min distance). But, if the distance between "installed" snap rings is really 2.208", that would be closer to the ones I just installed, and theoretically as much as a PITA to install. Hopefully I'm just misreading 2.208" as the max width of the c-clip channels, not accounting for snap rings, which would reasonably coincide with the joint I removed.

 

Kingman, recall any experience with this particular joint by chance?

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