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Installing New CV-Axles


Nick
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I hate to revive an old thread but after searching I can't find any help. 

 

I'm stuck and can't get my cv axle shift out far enough to get my snap ring on. I've jacked the lower ball joint up but that hasn't helped. I have recheck everything and made sure their in the right order but no cigar. 

 

The replacement axle came from advance auto and im curious should i keep the old brass spacer that goes that on the original axle or can I just remove it. If I remove it I have about 3/16th of an inch space to put the snap ring on.

With it on i have less than a the width of my screw driver tip in space. The new axle did not have a spacer.

 

I have tried using vise grips to pull the axle out, tapping on the back if the axle , and using a c clamp to hold the axel tight against the hub assembly with no progress. 

 

Help!!! I really need this complete by Monday. 

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  • 5 months later...
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So I'm in the middle of replacing my broken cv. Snapped off the flange on the trans side, flopped around and got wedged up under the flange.  Now I have no room to wiggle it out to get it off the hub. Never seen this happen before! Help! Any suggestions would  e greatly appreciated!

2001 Pathfinder R50 LE.

Driver's side cv

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So I'm in the middle of replacing my broken cv. Snapped off the flange on the trans side, flopped around and got wedged up under the flange.  Now I have no room to wiggle it out to get it off the hub. Never seen this happen before! Help! Any suggestions would  e greatly appreciated!
2001 Pathfinder R50 LE.
Driver's side cv

Undo and remove the front and rear control arm bolts. Leave the ball joint nuts.


Sent from my Pathfinder
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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm in the same "can't snap ring" boat.  The knuckle/hub/CVJ are all bolted in place and I was ready to put on the auto hub, but I lack about 1/8" of exposure to get the snap ring into place.  I had replaced the CV axle and the inner and outer bearings.  The replacement bearing races were seemingly set snugly to the the shoulder.  The spindle/hub union seemed to have the proper clearance between the rotor and flange.  I might could more aggressively jack up the LCA, but the effort I expended there did not seem to help.

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I'm a little closer now with about 3/64" to go.  I've jacked up the suspension, tightened the lock ring, pulled on the axle, tapped on the washers and snap ring, removed, replaced and repeated.  I'm so close, but I just can't get to it.  What am I doing wrong here?

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I took the knuckle back off and gave the seals a few whacks to make sure that they were seated sufficiently and then put it all back together.  I might have gained a 64th, but it's still a no go.

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I took the knuckle back off and gave the seals a few whacks to make sure that they were seated sufficiently and then put it all back together.  I might have gained a 64th, but it's still a no go.

If your axle is going in at a very slight angle, that is enough to keep the shaft from sticking out far enough for snap ring. I’d pull it out and turn the steering away from the side you’re working on. Try again to seat the splines then give it a firm push.


Sent from my Pathfinder
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That seems to rule out the bearings. Check that you have the auto hub clutches stacked right. It's been a while since I messed with auto hubs (and it seems unlikely you would've messed it up on both sides), but I would check the exploded diagram in the service manual against what you've got and make sure everything's as it should be. I downloaded an '89 manual ages ago and can't remember where I got it, so I've got it on Dropbox now. The hub assembly is shown on FA-16. :clickdalink:

 

Another dumb thing to try, do the auto hubs fit over the ends of your axles? There are 27 spline and 28 spline axles for these, and I've been told '89 was the cutoff year. I wouldn't expect the spline count to change where the snap ring groove is, but it's something to check.

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I didn't take apart the auto hubs and have them together like the FSM shows on FA-16.  Mine is 27 spline as are the replacements.  I'm curious if the first side I replaced might be different now since I drove out the drive, turned around and put it up on jacks.  I have not yet had time to visit it because of the rains.  I'll be at work for the better part of this week so hopefully soon.  I'm so sore and tired after wrestling with the wheels, wrenches, knuckles, shocks, etc.  I'm still appreciating your help.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ah, that makes sense. Now that I think about it, there's a bit in the manual that has you set CV end-float by swapping to a different thickness of washer. Makes sense that a thicker washer might not fit at all if the axle groove is at the other end of tolerance. Good to hear you got it in the end!

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