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Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

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If I remember right, yeah. Pretty sure that's what my code was on my '87 for the sensor.

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If I remember right, yeah. Pretty sure that's what my code was on my '87 for the sensor.

I copied this from another site, but it seems to be missing some info...It's supposed to be 1987 Nissan codes...check out 13...It says Cylinder head temp sensor.

Could this cause this condition?

 

The ECU constantly monitors the function of various sensors and actuators, regardless of ignition key position. If a malfunction is present, it is stored in the ECU and can be retrieved from memory by turning on diagnostic mode selector, located on the side of the ECU. When activated, malfunction is indicated by a series of flashing red and green light emitting diodes, also located on the ECU. When displaying malfunction codes, then code number can be determined by counting the number of light pulses. The red light represents the first digit of the code, while the green light represents the second digit of the code. For example, a Code 12 would be displayed as one flash of the red light, followed by two flashes of the green light.

Malfunction codes can be translated using the following decoding chart:

Code 11 -- Crank angle sensor circuit malfunction.

Code 12 -- Air flow meter circuit malfunction.

Code 13 -- 200SX w/VG30E engine, Pathfinder & Pickup w/VG30i engine, Maxima & 300ZX. Cylinder head temperature sensor circuit malfunction.

Code 13 -- 200SX w/CA20E engine, Pathfinder & Pickup w/Z24i engine, Pulsar, Sentra, Stanza, Stanza Wagon & Van. Water temperature sensor circuit malfunction.

Code 21 -- Ignition signal missing in primary coil.

Code 22 -- Maxima, Stanza, Stanza Wagon, 200SX & 300ZX. Fuel pump circuit malfunction.

Code 22 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine. Idle speed control slips out.

Code 33 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine, Pathfinder, Pickup & Van. Exhaust gas sensor circuit malfunction.

Code 34 -- Pulsar w/CA16DE engine, Maxima & 300ZX. Detonation sensor circuit malfunction.

Code 41 -- 200SX w/VG30E engine, Maxima & 300ZX. Fuel temperature sensor circuit malfunction.

Code 41 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine, 200SX w/CA20E engine, Stanza & Stanza Wagon. Air temperature sensor circuit malfunction.

Code 42 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine, Pathfinder, Pickup & Van. Throttle sensor circuit malfunction.

Code 43 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine. Mixture ratio feedback control slips out.

Code 43 -- Pathfinder, Pickup & Van. Injector circuit malfunction.

Code 44 -- All monitored systems satisfactory.

 

The diagnostic code retained in the ECU will automatically be erased after starter is operated for 50 times

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Same sensor different name.

Edited by Kingman

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Same sensor different name.

I thought it might be the same one, but there are two of them in question. one is on top of the intake next to the radiator intake, and the other one is behind the timing belt cover, I'm told...I haven't looked for it yet. The guy at Advance said that one of them is to cut the fan on and off...Is that the one on top of the intake? I'm guessing the 13 is for the one behind the timing cover...Am I right?

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I thought it might be the same one, but there are two of them in question. one is on top of the intake next to the radiator intake, and the other one is behind the timing belt cover, I'm told...I haven't looked for it yet. The guy at Advance said that one of them is to cut the fan on and off...Is that the one on top of the intake? I'm guessing the 13 is for the one behind the timing cover...Am I right?

Never mind man...I just read this post again. The first time I just skimmed over it, and I think I can handle it.... I sure hope this is it!

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The one in the intake is for the gauge. Easiest way to get the one in the block out is to remove the upper timing belt cover and bend the inner cover out until you can get to the sensor. Then break the plastic clip off and get a socket in there to get it out, thread the new one in by hand and tighten it down a little with some pliers being careful not to break it. Bend the cover back and put the other cover on.

 

When you replace the sensor it's a good idea to replace the harness too as a lot of times that's what causes most of the issues.

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The one in the intake is for the gauge. Easiest way to get the one in the block out is to remove the upper timing belt cover and bend the inner cover out until you can get to the sensor. Then break the plastic clip off and get a socket in there to get it out, thread the new one in by hand and tighten it down a little with some pliers being careful not to break it. Bend the cover back and put the other cover on.

 

When you replace the sensor it's a good idea to replace the harness too as a lot of times that's what causes most of the issues.

Where can I find a harness for this...not having much luck looking online. Do you know of a link you can send me, or do I just have to try my luck at a salvage yard?

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The one in the intake is for the gauge. Easiest way to get the one in the block out is to remove the upper timing belt cover and bend the inner cover out until you can get to the sensor. Then break the plastic clip off and get a socket in there to get it out, thread the new one in by hand and tighten it down a little with some pliers being careful not to break it. Bend the cover back and put the other cover on.

 

When you replace the sensor it's a good idea to replace the harness too as a lot of times that's what causes most of the issues.

I was able to get to it without doing anything with the timing belt cover...guess I jut had the right socket and swivel...I did however have to change my oil because of the excessive fuel that was dumped in the cylinders.

When I replaced the sensor, I couldn't let it sit and idle long because I was so low on fuel, so I test drove it a little early. I was heading to the store, and got about a half mile up the road when I noticed very low oil pressure, so I turned around and headed back home. It was ticking pretty bad when I turned into my drive, so I shut it off and coasted in. I checked the oil and was puzzled why it was so full on the stick with no oil pressure, and sounding like it was dry as a bone. It was late, so I gave up till this morning. Thats when I noticed the gas mixed in it. I drained it, put new oil with some Lucas oil stabilizer, and it seems to be running as good as ever!...Should I be really concerned about the excessive gas in the oil, or do you think I caught it in time where there shouldn't be any permanent damage? I have a friend that will do a compression test on it when I can get to his house. He just lives about an hour away, and I don't want to risk the long drive just yet.

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Should be fine since it wasn't ran very long.

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The one in the intake is for the gauge. Easiest way to get the one in the block out is to remove the upper timing belt cover and bend the inner cover out until you can get to the sensor. Then break the plastic clip off and get a socket in there to get it out, thread the new one in by hand and tighten it down a little with some pliers being careful not to break it. Bend the cover back and put the other cover on.

 

When you replace the sensor it's a good idea to replace the harness too as a lot of times that's what causes most of the issues.

 

So on my '88 I have to bend my timing belt cover? Seems risky but why not. I have a question about this, I have an aftermarket gauge and it's mechanical, do i need a special adapter to put in? I saw that there's 2 terminals for an electrical connection coming out of this sender unit. By the way went with Equus..

 

http://www.equus.com/Product/6232/2''-Mechanical-Water-Temperature-Gauge

 

Any help would be pretty incredible..

Edited by Rocky88

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Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!!!!!

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Shout out! - Even though the thread is a little old. There have been quite few occasions where cleaning the terminal for the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor (CHTS-add to acronym list?! - based on 89 VG30i FSM and I do have a copy if anyone needs it) was a logical step in diagnosing problems. Well all I can say is I have clean terminals/connector on my Water Temperature Sensor (Sending Unit for gauge). Just got didn't read the FSM thorough enough and at the time wasn't able to find a clear picture possibly.

 

Thank's to all that cleared the fact up that I had been looking at the wrong thing for a few years!

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Just a heads up....on the 3.5 both sensors are on the tube behind the intake manifold. Just replace my etc sensor. 19mm deep socket and it come right out 

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How do you get the connector unplugged for the sensor going to the ECM?

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On a WD21? First you remove the little wire clip with a pick or knife point or something (kinda fiddly, be careful not to let it ping off into who knows where) and then the plug just pulls out.

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One of my idle control plugs is held in with a piece of .030 welding wire bent into the shape of the missing clip.

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