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4Wd Indicator Switch


Soccerstudd5
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Did some searching and couldn't find anything, but I know I've seen it in the past.

 

Where is the indicator switch for the 4wd? I remember it's somewhere around the transmission or t-case under the truck, but I can't remember more than that. I am going to be crawling under there and checking some stuff and would like to fix the problem of my 4wd light always being on. As always, TIA!

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Theres 2 switches for the indicator (so the ligt comes on in 4h & 4L but not N) on mine the wires rotted thru so after removing them I just soldered new wires on and all has been good.

Be careful not to lose the check balls, I believe there are 3 behind each switch.

Edited by MY1PATH
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  • 10 years later...
On 12/30/2009 at 7:39 AM, Soccerstudd5 said:

Did some searching and couldn't find anything, but I know I've seen it in the past.

 

Where is the indicator switch for the 4wd? I remember it's somewhere around the transmission or t-case under the truck, but I can't remember more than that. I am going to be crawling under there and checking some stuff and would like to fix the problem of my 4wd light always being on. As always, TIA!

 

On 12/30/2009 at 12:20 PM, RedPath88 said:

The side of it ;)... don't remember the socket size, but you may need an O2 style (slotted) socket, if it's really stuck in there.

 

On 12/30/2009 at 3:38 PM, MY1PATH said:

Theres 2 switches for the indicator (so the ligt comes on in 4h & 4L but not N) on mine the wires rotted thru so after removing them I just soldered new wires on and all has been good.

Be careful not to lose the check balls, I believe there are 3 behind each switch.

 

Is anyone still around to help me with this? Today I pulled and re-loomed the 8 wire bundle these two switches are part of. Both of mine have the wire to the switches hanging on by barely a thread to one of the leads of the switches.

 

I'm confused why there is only one wire to each switch when the switches themselves have two separate leads/connection points on them? Is that right? How do you know which connection point is the right one?

 

I guess my 4x4 light doesn't work because it never has illuminated. How to I buy new leads/switches if I cant fix it myself? I checked my local auto shop and rockauto and the part doesn't seem to exist.

 

 

pic5.jpg

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That's not something that you can find at a general parts store. That's a dealership (maybe) part, or an eBay part. It's a really simple system and just needs both wires attached. I don't really care if mine lights up or not so I never bothered to fix mine!

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7 hours ago, SpecialWarr said:

That's not something that you can find at a general parts store. That's a dealership (maybe) part, or an eBay part. It's a really simple system and just needs both wires attached. I don't really care if mine lights up or not so I never bothered to fix mine!

Hey thanks FirstGen!

 

What I'm confused about is that I have two transfer switches, and each only has one wire going to it but it looks like each has connections for two wires. The two connections are not shorted together either. See my drawing for what my harness looks like excluding the neutral, reverse, and speed sensors. Note the extra unconnected thing (shown green just for reference).

 

The FSM contradicts itself/is confusing over if there should be two switches each with one wire, each with two wires, or one switch with two wires. The info I've found here is also confusing, it seems some people with '94s have one two wire switch only, is that what you have too? I've got a '95, I thought it would be the same as 90-94.

 

I think my best bet might be to ensure the indicator bulb isn't burnt out and then just mess around putting into 4WD and outtransfer_switch_wiring.jpg.79cd02fd7230b96d84dc24ddc8892653.jpg and using a multimeter, I've got two wires to go back to the dash and 4 possible terminal points. Any advice to speed that up is welcome!

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From what I remember, the switches have a single wire and ground with the case. 

The reason for the 2 switches is one is for 4hi and the other is 4lo. No separate indicator lights between high and low range I think (haven't paid much attention for a long time), but the 2 switches are used so the light is on when in 4wd regardless of range. 

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16 minutes ago, Mr_Reverse said:

From what I remember, the switches have a single wire and ground with the case. 

The reason for the 2 switches is one is for 4hi and the other is 4lo. No separate indicator lights between high and low range I think (haven't paid much attention for a long time), but the 2 switches are used so the light is on when in 4wd regardless of range. 

 

Oh yeah grounding to the case makes sense! Maybe that's what the second terminal does on each, should be easy to check and then I can confirm I have them wired to the proper terminal. Thanks!

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The '95 service manual should have the system all laid out somewhere. Not sure if it'd be in EL or TF, but that's where I'd start. I haven't had a reason to look into this, but Mr. Reverse's idea of one switch for high and one for low makes sense to me--my 4x4 light goes out with the transfer in neutral.

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31 minutes ago, Slartibartfast said:

The '95 service manual should have the system all laid out somewhere. Not sure if it'd be in EL or TF, but that's where I'd start. I haven't had a reason to look into this, but Mr. Reverse's idea of one switch for high and one for low makes sense to me--my 4x4 light goes out with the transfer in neutral.

 

Yeah that's the intended operation I think. It seems there are a few different implementations however as the manual shows it a couple different ways, omitting some parts in the TF section that are shown or hinted at in some of the EL section.

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The 95 FSM shows only one transfer switch...but two switch "designs" existed.  See EL-44.  The diagram there indicates that for VG30E models that MT trucks had two single-wire connections using yellow and black wires, and AT trucks had a single dual-wire harness with yellow and yellow/black wires.  I'm not sure what transmission you have, but I'd be willing to the switches really only differ by their harness.

 

The location, per TF-9, shows it to be on the passenger side of the rear case of the transfer case.  An actual picture of that 2nd switch, with relative position on the t-case or transmission, from your sketch would help.  Otherwise, if you have the MT, the other switch might be the Transfer/Neutral Position Switch (doesn't exist on AT).

 

Your picture in post #7 is of a switch where the terminal cap/boot has broken off (i.e., the wires aren't supposed to be exposed or disconnected there), so I presume that to be both the switch you're looking for, and the source of the problem.  I imagine that could be fixed pretty easily with some solder and some sealant.  Otherwise, it appears to be a $28 part from Nissan, if even available.

 

WD21-4-WD-TF-Switches.jpg

 

MT switch:

32005-ZD30-A.jpg

 

AT switch:

32005-33-G1-B.jpg

 

But depending on how far you want to go down the rabbit hole...

  • The screenshot above, from NissanPartsDeal (.com) shows the applications, part numbers, and part number succession.
  • Both NPD and Nissan (parts.nissanusa.com) also show 32005-ZD30A (MT) replaced 32005-SSG13, and 32005-33G1B (AT) replaced 32005-SSG14, both of which were for 1st Gen Frontiers and Xterras.
  • The MT 32005-SSG13 switch has a direct replacement on RockAuto from Standard Motor Parts NS268 ($29), listed as 4WD Switch.
  • The AT 32005-SSG14 switch has a direct replacement on RockAuto from Standard Motor Products LS287 ($17), but appears as a Back Up (Reverse) Lamp Switch on various Nissan MT trucks and cars, such as 94-95 Hardbody and 95-98 200SX (among others)
  • Since AT switch seems to fit other models, it stands to reason parts in the same category should also fit, such as the Beck/Arnley 2011791 ($8) switch for a 200SX; notably, many of those similar parts only seem to differ by wire length.

That all said, I'd be willing to bet you can grab just about any of those switches and they'd work fine, if not direct fits despite some possibility that some wires may be too short.  Not that you couldn't splice things if needed.  If the factory switch still works (you just need to do a simple continuity check when 4wd engaged and disengaged), then it seems like you could repair the switch, potentially without even removing it from the case.
 

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15 minutes ago, hawairish said:

The 95 FSM shows only one transfer switch...but two switch "designs" existed.  See EL-44.  The diagram there indicates that for VG30E models that MT trucks had two single-wire connections using yellow and black wires, and AT trucks had a single dual-wire harness with yellow and yellow/black wires.  I'm not sure what transmission you have, but I'd be willing to the switches really only differ by their harness.

 

The location, per TF-9, shows it to be on the passenger side of the rear case of the transfer case.  An actual picture of that 2nd switch, with relative position on the t-case or transmission, from your sketch would help.  Otherwise, if you have the MT, the other switch might be the Transfer/Neutral Position Switch (doesn't exist on AT).

 

Your picture in post #7 is of a switch where the terminal cap/boot has broken off (i.e., the wires aren't supposed to be exposed or disconnected there), so I presume that to be both the switch you're looking for, and the source of the problem.  I imagine that could be fixed pretty easily with some solder and some sealant.  Otherwise, it appears to be a $28 part from Nissan, if even available.

 

Whew! Now there is the reply I've been looking for! Thank you so much.

 

It is MT.

 

Where I have been confused was comparing TF-9, EL-44 and EL-86 connectors #4E, your reply just made this clear to me (I think). There is only one transfer/neutral switch BUT it has two wires, each with a separate plug, as shown in EL-86. Is that the correct interpretation?

 

If so,  the 'transfer switch #2' must be my transfer/neutral/4x4 indicator switch because it is to the rear of the transfer case as TF-9 shows. However I am still unsure what 'transfer switch #1' is as there are already 3 other sensors down there, each with two wires. 6 wires + 2 transfer switch wires = 8, which is all there is room for in the plug near the relay bank on passenger side engine bay. 

 

Re-reading your post I am confused about 'Otherwise, if you have the MT, the other switch might be the Transfer/Neutral Position Switch (doesn't exist on AT).' Do you know what both switches are then?

 

Tomorrow I can grab a better photo, had this already.

$8, thats what I'm looking for. Though I might just grab an extension cord, soldering iron, and heatshrink once this is sorted :P

4x4switchPic3.jpg

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Ahh is it that back one switch is the 4wd/transfer switch and front one is the neutral?

And for some reason there is some extra thing going on down there with the extra two wires?

All those two switches do is the indicator dash light correct?

 

Gotta ask all the things I can while I got u here hawairish.

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@TheGhost Since you have the MT, we can clear up the diagram on EL-86 a little, but I also think we're dealing with a couple small discrepancies.  Keep in mind a lot of these diagrams also show items you might not see on your truck.

 

Here's the breakdown of EL-86, with the bold harnesses IDs being what you should expect to see on your truck:

  • 1E = Typo #1.  It says "M/T Model", but EL-81 says harness 76M is for "VG30E engine A/T model".  EL-44 shows 1E as having 6 wires for AT, and you've indicated there's 8 wires.  So, this won't be on your truck.  See 5E.
  • 2E = "Back-up lamp switch", found on MT-33 as "Reverse lamp switch" on the OD gear case.  EL-30 says it has white/black and red/black wires and confirms as using harness 2E, and that harness 5E has 8 wires.  The inhibitor switch on an AT provides the reverse signal, which is likely why 1E is 6-wire.
  • 3E = "Neutral position switch", also on MT-33 by the same name, also on the OD gear case.  As such, this is the neutral switch for the transmission.  More on this later...
  • 4E = "Transfer switch" aka "4wd switch", per EL-44.  This should be your rear-most sensor, or "Transfer Switch #2" in your sketch.  In the picture you last uploaded, I believe the harness circled in green needs to be connected to the open harness in your hand given the yellow and black wires indicated on EL-44.  (The picture's too small for me to assert much, though.)   EL-44 also confirms that 4E is for MT, but does not show an expected 6E harness label by the AT switch.
  • 5E = Typo #2; says "4WD A/T Model", but EL-81 says harness 78M for "VG30E engine M/T model".  Everything else has so far confirmed this should be an 8-wire harness on MT trucks.
  • 6E = I suspect this is the correct harness for the AT Transfer Switch, but the diagram is wrong in indicating that it's two harnesses.
  • 7E (AT) & 8E (MT) = These Vehicle Speed Sensors won't be mistaken as switches...they'll have a cylindrical body coming off them.  Wires will be red and white

Given the various EL diagrams, these appear to be the pins for 5E (note that the numbers from the terminal side, so they might be reversed depending on how you're looking at it):

1 - white/black (2E - Back up light switch)

2 - ? (3E - Neutral Position switch?)

3 - yellow (4E - Transfer/4WD Switch)

4 - red (8E - VSS )

5 - ? (3E - Neutral Position switch?)

6 - red/black (2E - Back up light switch)

7 - black (4E - Transfer/4wd Switch)

8 - white (8E - VSS)


Now, about that neutral switch...or "switches", since I suspect (expect?) both AT and MT models to possibly have both.  For sure, there's a neutral position switch on the transmission, either a dedicated switch the MT, or part of the inhibitor switch on the AT.  TF-9 shows a switch, and in a different position than MT-33, so I presume it to be a separate switch, but I'm just not seeing proof anywhere...I can't find any circuit diagram that includes it.  Normally I'd expect these switches to be covered in the EL - Warning Lamps section because they'd be used to warn of an unsafe condition, such as leaving the t-case in neutral while the transmission was in park (AT) or neutral (AT or MT)...the vehicle can roll.  This condition triggers the "ATP" lamp, and while I don't see any mention of it, there is one illustration that suggests it's there.  To that extent, I can't find much that covers the MT transmission's NPS circuit, except in the SMJ/"foldout" diagram, though I at least expected to see it as a trigger for deactivating the cruise control, but nothing there.

 

Anywho....more pictures would help, though since 75% of the 5E can be identified, hopefully that's some process of elimination.

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Jumping back into my way back machine, when I had Nissans with manual transmissions, I recall my 300 ZX and my Frankenstein 1980 200SX I built both had 3 switches in the transmission. One was for the reverse lights, and the other two were for the ECM. One was a neutral switch and the other was the overdrive (5th gear) switch. 

 

One part of the confusion is that what we call a transfer case is actually an auxiliary 2 speed transmission that is attached to the main transmission. They are separate units and the switches do different functions. The switches on the transfer case are for the 4wd indicator light. The reverse switch will always be on the transmission as will the neutral and overdrive. The speed sensor with the D and WD21s is a mechanical drive gear up to the 93 model year and doesn't have any wires, just a cable to drive the speedometer. 94 on uses an electronic sensor with wires. The speedometer drive or speed sensor (for the 94+) is mounted in the tail shaft housing of the transmission in the 2wd trucks. In the 4wd trucks it is mounted in the rear output shaft housing of the transfer case. 

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On 11/18/2020 at 1:24 AM, hawairish said:

@TheGhost Since you have the MT, we can clear up the diagram on EL-86 a little, but I also think we're dealing with a couple small discrepancies.  Keep in mind a lot of these diagrams also show items you might not see on your truck.

 

Here's the breakdown of EL-86, with the bold harnesses IDs being what you should expect to see on your truck:

  • 1E = Typo #1.  It says "M/T Model", but EL-81 says harness 76M is for "VG30E engine A/T model".  EL-44 shows 1E as having 6 wires for AT, and you've indicated there's 8 wires.  So, this won't be on your truck.  See 5E.
  • 2E = "Back-up lamp switch", found on MT-33 as "Reverse lamp switch" on the OD gear case.  EL-30 says it has white/black and red/black wires and confirms as using harness 2E, and that harness 5E has 8 wires.  The inhibitor switch on an AT provides the reverse signal, which is likely why 1E is 6-wire.
  • 3E = "Neutral position switch", also on MT-33 by the same name, also on the OD gear case.  As such, this is the neutral switch for the transmission.  More on this later...
  • 4E = "Transfer switch" aka "4wd switch", per EL-44.  This should be your rear-most sensor, or "Transfer Switch #2" in your sketch.  In the picture you last uploaded, I believe the harness circled in green needs to be connected to the open harness in your hand given the yellow and black wires indicated on EL-44.  (The picture's too small for me to assert much, though.)   EL-44 also confirms that 4E is for MT, but does not show an expected 6E harness label by the AT switch.
  • 5E = Typo #2; says "4WD A/T Model", but EL-81 says harness 78M for "VG30E engine M/T model".  Everything else has so far confirmed this should be an 8-wire harness on MT trucks.
  • 6E = I suspect this is the correct harness for the AT Transfer Switch, but the diagram is wrong in indicating that it's two harnesses.
  • 7E (AT) & 8E (MT) = These Vehicle Speed Sensors won't be mistaken as switches...they'll have a cylindrical body coming off them.  Wires will be red and white

Given the various EL diagrams, these appear to be the pins for 5E (note that the numbers from the terminal side, so they might be reversed depending on how you're looking at it):

1 - white/black (2E - Back up light switch)

2 - ? (3E - Neutral Position switch?)

3 - yellow (4E - Transfer/4WD Switch)

4 - red (8E - VSS )

5 - ? (3E - Neutral Position switch?)

6 - red/black (2E - Back up light switch)

7 - black (4E - Transfer/4wd Switch)

8 - white (8E - VSS)


Now, about that neutral switch...or "switches", since I suspect (expect?) both AT and MT models to possibly have both.  For sure, there's a neutral position switch on the transmission, either a dedicated switch the MT, or part of the inhibitor switch on the AT.  TF-9 shows a switch, and in a different position than MT-33, so I presume it to be a separate switch, but I'm just not seeing proof anywhere...I can't find any circuit diagram that includes it.  Normally I'd expect these switches to be covered in the EL - Warning Lamps section because they'd be used to warn of an unsafe condition, such as leaving the t-case in neutral while the transmission was in park (AT) or neutral (AT or MT)...the vehicle can roll.  This condition triggers the "ATP" lamp, and while I don't see any mention of it, there is one illustration that suggests it's there.  To that extent, I can't find much that covers the MT transmission's NPS circuit, except in the SMJ/"foldout" diagram, though I at least expected to see it as a trigger for deactivating the cruise control, but nothing there.

 

Anywho....more pictures would help, though since 75% of the 5E can be identified, hopefully that's some process of elimination.

 

6 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:

Jumping back into my way back machine, when I had Nissans with manual transmissions, I recall my 300 ZX and my Frankenstein 1980 200SX I built both had 3 switches in the transmission. One was for the reverse lights, and the other two were for the ECM. One was a neutral switch and the other was the overdrive (5th gear) switch. 

 

One part of the confusion is that what we call a transfer case is actually an auxiliary 2 speed transmission that is attached to the main transmission. They are separate units and the switches do different functions. The switches on the transfer case are for the 4wd indicator light. The reverse switch will always be on the transmission as will the neutral and overdrive. The speed sensor with the D and WD21s is a mechanical drive gear up to the 93 model year and doesn't have any wires, just a cable to drive the speedometer. 94 on uses an electronic sensor with wires. The speedometer drive or speed sensor (for the 94+) is mounted in the tail shaft housing of the transmission in the 2wd trucks. In the 4wd trucks it is mounted in the rear output shaft housing of the transfer case. 

 

This solves it. Wiring & colors (for me) on the sensor-side plug/harness is:

                                                          -----------
                                                         |            |

 ---------------------------------------------------             ----------------------------------------------

||  1: reverse (W/B)  |  2: tranny N (L/B) |  3:4wd (W/B)  |  4: VSS (red)  ||

||  4: reverse (R/B)   |  5: tranny N (B)     |  6:4wd (Y/B)   |  4: VSS (W)    ||

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

and the secret that it took me this long to realize, which I think you are saying, is there are TWO neutral switches, one for the tranny and one for the transfer case/4wd. The 4wd indicator lamp has two switches in series, as you are saying, the 4wd switch and the transfercase N switch.

 

The order of sensor mounting on the truck from front to back on 1995 4wd MT is Reverse, Tranny N, Transfercase N, 4wd switch, and VSS (ty mr_reverse). 

 

I am still not 100% sure why the 4wd indicator light needs both the '4wd switch' - which presumably is closed if you are in 4H or 4L, and the 'Tranny N' - which is presumably open if you are in N on 4wd selection, is still weird to me. 

I haven't crawled under  to take pics or confirm this is 100% correct yet as its super wet here right now, but I should be able to get my indicator light working correctly without too much fuss now.

I also noticed that in my harness wire #3 (attached to transfercase N, the 1st stop of the 4wd indicator light wires) is quite melted. I wonder if it shorted against the case or the other terminal and burnt out the indicator light bulb as the bulb does not light up when starting the truck.

 

Thank you everyone for the help! hopefully in a week I can post a photo with my indicator lights working :)

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