LostNcrRanger Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 Yeah,It's dumb question time today. How would one get por-15 into the insides of my frame rails? Looking to get some extra rust prevention going. Does anyone have any opinions or input on how i could get this done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 Remove the frame and dip it in a huge vat of POR 15, after prep work, of course. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 Wash the frame out GOOD. Use some sort of snake tool with a large wire brush rotary tool on it, to clean it up a bit.... Wash it out again. Dry. put some sort of small hose through the entire frame, then put some sort of radial sprayer attachment on it, and pull it through while spraying por15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minnight Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Since i purhased my 92 a couple years ago ive been flushing out the inner and outer frame and been appling rust check(oil guard type of substance).I fabbed up a spray type contraption by clamping a length of copper tubing to a brass hose fitting that fits my garden hose.By crimping the end of the copper tube a bit i can get a not bad spray pattern with some sort of adequate pressure.The copper is flexable so you can manouver it up ,down,arond the inside of the rail.The first time i did it the amount of crap that came out was unreal.Going to do this yearly and hope it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostNcrRanger Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 Wash the frame out GOOD. Use some sort of snake tool with a large wire brush rotary tool on it, to clean it up a bit.... Wash it out again. Dry. put some sort of small hose through the entire frame, then put some sort of radial sprayer attachment on it, and pull it through while spraying por15 I think i like this one the best. Since i purhased my 92 a couple years ago ive been flushing out the inner and outer frame and been appling rust check(oil guard type of substance).I fabbed up a spray type contraption by clamping a length of copper tubing to a brass hose fitting that fits my garden hose.By crimping the end of the copper tube a bit i can get a not bad spray pattern with some sort of adequate pressure.The copper is flexable so you can manouver it up ,down,arond the inside of the rail.The first time i did it the amount of crap that came out was unreal.Going to do this yearly and hope it helps. This helps explain how to fab up the tool in question. I'll talk to my tech tommorow and see what his ideas on the subject are,too. i want to get this outta the way before the snow starts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Rinse it down well inside the channels (GrimGreg has a post for a handy spray tool), let it dry and then spray it inside and out with denatured fish oil. Reapply whenever desired. Natural, durable rust barrier, cheap, simple, eco friendly. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 without the prep (cleaning debris, removing loose rust, etc...) POR-15 would be a waste of alot of money as it wouldn't work well. one of the other options (Dino or Fish based) I use POR-15 and love it! just not on the inside of the frame rails Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Fluid film. It's environmentally friendly (basically, it's fish oil) and it isn't water soluble. Forms a great barrier. It's used in all sorts of industrial applications both as an anti-corrosion coating, and a non-stick coating. (snow plows) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostNcrRanger Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 I also have CARC at my disposal. however,i'm not sure i want my frame turning desert tan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balmer Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Great advice in this thread everyone! I love the ideas that include enviro-friendly options. Often these solutions work best as well as being a responsible choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostNcrRanger Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 Hey Simon,Is fluid film paintable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Nope.... It's more like a thick PB Blaster, or WD40, only, it actually stops rust. It thickens up even more after application to keep moisture out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostNcrRanger Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 is it clear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 clear-ish. It dries (though not completely) dark. Sprays on almost clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostNcrRanger Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 do you use a basecoat or just apply it to bare metal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Apply it to bare metal..... Here ya go....all you need to know.... It's really good stuff, though, not cheap. ~$12-15 per can CAD. http://www.fluid-film.com/applications/automotive/applications.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostNcrRanger Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 looks like i'm picking some up then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 To further explain the vitues of Fluid film, I'll share some of the things I use it for. - Warn Hub lubrication. Most grease is too thick, so I coat the inside of the hubs and mechanisms with fluid film to keep things turning smooth - Long term penetrant. PB Blaster is used if I want to spray a bolt, wait 5 minutes and try to loosen. If that doesn't work, I use fluid film and wait a day or 2. Usually the bolts come out without a problem. - Water displacemnt. I coat any exposed electrical connections on the truck with it, especially those that will be immersed in water (trail runs). Seems to work well fighting against corrosion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 http://www.septone.com.au/detail.asp?item_cat=&item_number=356&page_num=6 Septone Deodorised Fish Oil is a deodorised, anti rust, corrosion preventative designed to inhibit the formation of rust in internal box sections, door cavities, sills and pillars of motor vehicles, as well as on structural steel, railings, gates, bridges, pontoons and for the protection of welds. Fish Oil has long been considered to be one of the most effective products for rust prevention. Fish Oil penetrates through rust to give the parent metal protection from further rusting. However, note that Fish Oil is not a rust converter. For badly rusted areas, apply a rust converter prior to applying Fish Oil. http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au/product/view/fish-oil Most sources are Australian though. Hey, you ever see a rusty fish?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 I think we have 55 gallon drums of fluid-fil at work, I r stupit! We use it to coat CNH tractors before shipping them overseas to protect them from salt, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Get spraying! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendraig Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I just found out that I need to replace the right rear frame section on my Pathy, and read some pretty discouraging posts. Then I remembered my dear old Land Rover (SeriesII 88"), and am now determined to save my Pathfinder. I am happy to have found this thread now, as I believe you guys are on the right track here. first of all, let me say that I am not here to shower the Landy with praise, or to put down the Pathy, the Nissan is by far the better on-road vehicle and the rest is like comparing apples to oranges. I will say, however, that Land Rover dealers have a better attitude toward helping their customers with problems. Land Rover dealers know, confess, admit, provide help for, AND MAKE MONEY FROM problems related to the REALLY crappy box frames that they put under their older vehicles. Check out the sites of places like Atlantic British and Rovers North. You can buy any piece of the frame (or a whole new frame {$2000.00}---for an early 1960's vehicle). The attitude is typically British and is this: "Oh, the rear crossmember has rusted itself to pieces? Well, old boy, modern science HAS found the cause of this malady. You've simply neglected to spray enough no.2 fuel-oil mixed with your used engine oil onto the bloody thing. You ARE changing your oil every 5,000 miles aren't you? well then what are you doing with it, saving it up for your Guy Fawkes bonfire? Anyhow, not to worry, we have a nice new one for you on the shelf. Just cut the old one off and weld the new one on. Use the cab mounts and what's left of the frame as your jig. There's a good chap!" Nissan dealer's attitude: "Ah, rusty frame? Yes, frame rusts, so sorry, go away!" Anyhow, treating the inside of the box frame has been done by Land Rover owners for years. Reading your posts about this gives me new faith, especially now that I am in the Nissan camp. I have used POR 15, I love it, but I think that I will go with the enivironmentally-friendly fish-oil stuff. Reason being that POR-15, while it will be more permanent than oil, does not spead like oil. It only coats the area where you put it. Oil spreads (to some extent, anyhow) to areas that you might not have hit. Landy owners often use the jet nozzles from oil furnaces (get the ones with the biggest orifices and widest spread patterns) on the end of the frame-sprayers. The use of phosphoric acid prior to the rinse-out may get rid of some of the really bad rust, and drying with heated air or with nitrogen (available in cylinders from your local welding supply) between the rinse and the oiling will help. Thanks all for being here, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Welcome to the Rust repair club Bill!-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balmer Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I just found out that I need to replace the right rear frame section on my Pathy, and read some pretty discouraging posts. Then I remembered my dear old Land Rover (SeriesII 88"), and am now determined to save my Pathfinder. I am happy to have found this thread now, as I believe you guys are on the right track here. first of all, let me say that I am not here to shower the Landy with praise, or to put down the Pathy, the Nissan is by far the better on-road vehicle and the rest is like comparing apples to oranges. I will say, however, that Land Rover dealers have a better attitude toward helping their customers with problems. Land Rover dealers know, confess, admit, provide help for, AND MAKE MONEY FROM problems related to the REALLY crappy box frames that they put under their older vehicles. Check out the sites of places like Atlantic British and Rovers North. You can buy any piece of the frame (or a whole new frame {$2000.00}---for an early 1960's vehicle). The attitude is typically British and is this: "Oh, the rear crossmember has rusted itself to pieces? Well, old boy, modern science HAS found the cause of this malady. You've simply neglected to spray enough no.2 fuel-oil mixed with your used engine oil onto the bloody thing. You ARE changing your oil every 5,000 miles aren't you? well then what are you doing with it, saving it up for your Guy Fawkes bonfire? Anyhow, not to worry, we have a nice new one for you on the shelf. Just cut the old one off and weld the new one on. Use the cab mounts and what's left of the frame as your jig. There's a good chap!" Nissan dealer's attitude: "Ah, rusty frame? Yes, frame rusts, so sorry, go away!" Anyhow, treating the inside of the box frame has been done by Land Rover owners for years. Reading your posts about this gives me new faith, especially now that I am in the Nissan camp. I have used POR 15, I love it, but I think that I will go with the enivironmentally-friendly fish-oil stuff. Reason being that POR-15, while it will be more permanent than oil, does not spead like oil. It only coats the area where you put it. Oil spreads (to some extent, anyhow) to areas that you might not have hit. Landy owners often use the jet nozzles from oil furnaces (get the ones with the biggest orifices and widest spread patterns) on the end of the frame-sprayers. The use of phosphoric acid prior to the rinse-out may get rid of some of the really bad rust, and drying with heated air or with nitrogen (available in cylinders from your local welding supply) between the rinse and the oiling will help. Thanks all for being here, Bill Fine chap this Bill fellow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendraig Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Anybody know the answer here??? A friend has found a (94 or 95) Nissan pickup that looks like a suitable doner for the frame ends. Do the pickup and the Pathfinder have the same frame? (Can't tell from the Haynes manual) Thanks, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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